Some algae problem

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setsailsoon said:
Avi,

Congrats on the very successful SLAM! Here's what I do next:
  • Test for FC, CC until FC gets below 10 ppm then check and adjust pH to get it within range.
  • Then run FC on the high side (~9) as you get the feel for how much you consume daily. This should get you to the point that you can test every other day.
  • With your high CYA level you'll have to run fairly high FC levels and never below 5 ppm.
  • In a few weeks you should test CYA again. It will drop over time but often takes weeks to drop 10 ppm.
  • Your TA will drop as you adjust pH with acid. Let it drop and you will find pH easier to maintain. I ran 50 in my pool for years.
  • I would not mess with borates until you get your TA lower. You may find this is all you need to do and if it does the trick you can save yourself the hassle of yet another chemical to maintain.
  • If you want to make your pool much easier to maintain install an swg. It makes pool maintenance a snap and truly does make the water feel much less harsh.
I hope this helps.

Chris
Click to expand...
Hi Chris,

I will follow your suggestion.

I will check and upload the chemistry once FC drops under 10.

I will also look into swg. Can that be a dyi, or better to let a professional install it?

Thank you,
Avi
 
You can do it yourself. Here is the thread on my rebuild:

Picture Thread! SWCG add, plumbing cleanup, pump power interconnect! Might help someone...

Started this thread because @IUsedToSail asked about orientation of valves/check valves. Made me realize I didn't do a plumbing thread on my rebuild. Some may know my story, new pool owner last year (came with the house), I was PoolStored...then I found TFP. Pulled out the UV system and the...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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PoolStored said:
You can do it yourself. Here is the thread on my rebuild:

Click to expand...
PoolStored said:
You can do it yourself. Here is the thread on my rebuild:

Picture Thread! SWCG add, plumbing cleanup, pump power interconnect! Might help someone...

Started this thread because @IUsedToSail asked about orientation of valves/check valves. Made me realize I didn't do a plumbing thread on my rebuild. Some may know my story, new pool owner last year (came with the house), I was PoolStored...then I found TFP. Pulled out the UV system and the...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for the information PoolStored.

Initial look at the thread, makes the whole process pretty complicated.

I do some basic home fixups, but am not sure I have the acumen to get into complex plumbing and electrical.

I will, however, read and learn more to see if it is something I can attempt.

Thanks again,
Avi
 
ANash said:
Hi Chris,

I will follow your suggestion.

I will check and upload the chemistry once FC drops under 10.

I will also look into swg. Can that be a dyi, or better to let a professional install it?

Thank you,
Avi
Click to expand...
Avi,

SWG is definitely DIY doable. But like all DIY projects it requires some skills:
  • Cut and fit PVC pipe (almost anybody can do this).
  • Mount the control box to a wall, usually need ability to us a masonry drill bit and masonry screws such as Tapcons.
  • Wire high voltage power supply. Usually added parallel to the main pump power so you have added protection to prevent running swg with no flow.
When you evaluate swg supplier here are a couple things to keep in mind:
  • One of your selection criteria for the brand should be $/lb chlorine. Don't use the "recommended pool size" because different brands fudge their pool size recommendation so you can actually be buying a chlorinator that doesn't produce as much as another brand and think it's a better buy when it's not.
  • There's a website that provides good comparison data for most major brand swg's. Click here. If you're looking at a brand that's not listed make sure you go to their website to get the chlorine production rate. If they hide this info it would not make my list to choose from.
  • Look at warranty, viability of the warranty, and reputation of the brand. A LOT of that information is available by searching on this site and looking at references provided on this site.
  • Warranty is very important because all brands produce cells that have a very thin layer of catalyst applied to the surface of the cell. The manufacturing process for this produces some cells that get through and fail early. Even though this is a small percentage the cost to repair without warranty is very expensive. Most quality cells last 5+ years with reasonable maintenance. But a few last only 1-2 years due to defects.
  • If you DIY a major brand your warranty is usually only 6 months or even less. You do get a little better ability to control with their brand of automation and installation can be a little easier but in my opinion it's not worth it. If you prefer a major brand then I strongly recommend you use an authorized installer to get the full warranty. If you're not going to DIY then OEM from a major like Pentair can be the best choice.
  • I think the case for using swg is stronger than ever. Liquid chlorine supply reliability and cost continue to be hampered by supply chain issues that seem to be with us way longer than Covid. Most people just like the feel of a salt pool and it's definitely easier than jug-lugging.
I hope this helps.

Chris
 
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setsailsoon said:
Avi,

SWG is definitely DIY doable. But like all DIY projects it requires some skills:
  • Cut and fit PVC pipe (almost anybody can do this).
  • Mount the control box to a wall, usually need ability to us a masonry drill bit and masonry screws such as Tapcons.
  • Wire high voltage power supply. Usually added parallel to the main pump power so you have added protection to prevent running swg with no flow.
When you evaluate swg supplier here are a couple things to keep in mind:
  • One of your selection criteria for the brand should be $/lb chlorine. Don't use the "recommended pool size" because different brands fudge their pool size recommendation so you can actually be buying a chlorinator that doesn't produce as much as another brand and think it's a better buy when it's not.
  • There's a website that provides good comparison data for most major brand swg's. Click here. If you're looking at a brand that's not listed make sure you go to their website to get the chlorine production rate. If they hide this info it would not make my list to choose from.
  • Look at warranty, viability of the warranty, and reputation of the brand. A LOT of that information is available by searching on this site and looking at references provided on this site.
  • Warranty is very important because all brands produce cells that have a very thin layer of catalyst applied to the surface of the cell. The manufacturing process for this produces some cells that get through and fail early. Even though this is a small percentage the cost to repair without warranty is very expensive. Most quality cells last 5+ years with reasonable maintenance. But a few last only 1-2 years due to defects.
  • If you DIY a major brand your warranty is usually only 6 months or even less. You do get a little better ability to control with their brand of automation and installation can be a little easier but in my opinion it's not worth it. If you prefer a major brand then I strongly recommend you use an authorized installer to get the full warranty. If you're not going to DIY then OEM from a major like Pentair can be the best choice.
  • I think the case for using swg is stronger than ever. Liquid chlorine supply reliability and cost continue to be hampered by supply chain issues that seem to be with us way longer than Covid. Most people just like the feel of a salt pool and it's definitely easier than jug-lugging.
I hope this helps.

Chris
Click to expand...
This needs to go in the swg guide !
 
setsailsoon said:
Avi,

SWG is definitely DIY doable. But like all DIY projects it requires some skills:
  • Cut and fit PVC pipe (almost anybody can do this).
  • Mount the control box to a wall, usually need ability to us a masonry drill bit and masonry screws such as Tapcons.
  • Wire high voltage power supply. Usually added parallel to the main pump power so you have added protection to prevent running swg with no flow.
When you evaluate swg supplier here are a couple things to keep in mind:
  • One of your selection criteria for the brand should be $/lb chlorine. Don't use the "recommended pool size" because different brands fudge their pool size recommendation so you can actually be buying a chlorinator that doesn't produce as much as another brand and think it's a better buy when it's not.
  • There's a website that provides good comparison data for most major brand swg's. Click here. If you're looking at a brand that's not listed make sure you go to their website to get the chlorine production rate. If they hide this info it would not make my list to choose from.
  • Look at warranty, viability of the warranty, and reputation of the brand. A LOT of that information is available by searching on this site and looking at references provided on this site.
  • Warranty is very important because all brands produce cells that have a very thin layer of catalyst applied to the surface of the cell. The manufacturing process for this produces some cells that get through and fail early. Even though this is a small percentage the cost to repair without warranty is very expensive. Most quality cells last 5+ years with reasonable maintenance. But a few last only 1-2 years due to defects.
  • If you DIY a major brand your warranty is usually only 6 months or even less. You do get a little better ability to control with their brand of automation and installation can be a little easier but in my opinion it's not worth it. If you prefer a major brand then I strongly recommend you use an authorized installer to get the full warranty. If you're not going to DIY then OEM from a major like Pentair can be the best choice.
  • I think the case for using swg is stronger than ever. Liquid chlorine supply reliability and cost continue to be hampered by supply chain issues that seem to be with us way longer than Covid. Most people just like the feel of a salt pool and it's definitely easier than jug-lugging.
I hope this helps.

Chris
Click to expand...
Hi Chris,
Thank you, that helps a lot. Definitely something I will be working on getting on.

Until then, jug-lugging it is.

Latest test result from this morning
FC - 10
Ph - 7.8
TA-130
Ch -725

Added muriatic acid to bring it to 7.6

Pool math does not have the option of Muriatic acid 31.45%.

Kids used the pool today. I will check FC later in the evening and add chlorine as needed

Do I just continue to maintain going forward or should I make any changes?

Thanks again for all the help.

Cheers,
Avi
 
ANash said:
Hi Chris,
Thank you, that helps a lot. Definitely something I will be working on getting on.

Until then, jug-lugging it is.

Latest test result from this morning
FC - 10
Ph - 7.8
TA-130
Ch -725

Added muriatic acid to bring it to 7.6

Pool math does not have the option of Muriatic acid 31.45%.

Kids used the pool today. I will check FC later in the evening and add chlorine as needed

Do I just continue to maintain going forward or should I make any changes?

Thanks again for all the help.

Cheers,
Avi
Click to expand...
Yep I would continue with frequent pH and FC CC tests until you get the feel for how your pool reacts. Then check your cya in a couple of weeks. If you ever get some serious thunderstorms and your pool level drops you can lose cya a little cya a little quicker so it so it wouldn't afterward if that happens . TA will reduce as you make ph adjustments. You can let it drop to 60 and all that will happen is your ph will be more stable. Do you have an analysis of your fill water?

Chris
 
setsailsoon said:
Yep I would continue with frequent pH and FC CC tests until you get the feel for how your pool reacts. Then check your cya in a couple of weeks. If you ever get some serious thunderstorms and your pool level drops you can lose cya a little cya a little quicker so it so it wouldn't afterward if that happens . TA will reduce as you make ph adjustments. You can let it drop to 60 and all that will happen is your ph will be more stable. Do you have an analysis of your fill water?

Chris
Click to expand...
Thanks Chris,

Ah forgot to analyze the fill water. I will do so tonight.
 

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Ok... if you're nervous about installation check this baby out!-
www.discountsaltpool.com

CircuPool CORE-35 Salt Chlorine Generator | Discount Salt Pool

www.discountsaltpool.com www.discountsaltpool.com

Now, sure its undersized for your pool....but for $10 more you get the one for a 55,000 gallon pool!

This is about the easiest SWG I've seen to install.
If I got one I would wire it to a timer independent of the pump (but must only be run when pump is running) and run it as few hours as necessary to make all the FC I needed daily.

The only limitations I see are that it has fewer options for how much chlorine you want. You can get around that by using it at a high rate for fewer hours. THat would also save use-hours on the cell.

Maddie :flower:
 
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YippeeSkippy said:
Ok... if you're nervous about installation check this baby out!-
www.discountsaltpool.com

CircuPool CORE-35 Salt Chlorine Generator | Discount Salt Pool

www.discountsaltpool.com www.discountsaltpool.com

Now, sure its undersized for your pool....but for $10 more you get the one for a 55,000 gallon pool!

This is about the easiest SWG I've seen to install.
If I got one I would wire it to a timer independent of the pump (but must only be run when pump is running) and run it as few hours as necessary to make all the FC I needed daily.

The only limitations I see are that it has fewer options for how much chlorine you want. You can get around that by using it at a high rate for fewer hours. THat would also save use-hours on the cell.

Maddie :flower:
Click to expand...
Thanks Maddie, that does look much simpler.

Is the price considered typical for an swg?
 
Hi all. Back with an update.
I had been maintaining FC between 7 and 9 ppm (as recommended for the cya at 60). CC was always zero

I would check chlorine level every night and add as needed to get it back up to 9ppm. I would check ph in the morning at keep it around 7.6

Today's test results as of right now (10:30 pst)
FC - 7
CC - 0
Ph - 7.8
TA - 130
CYA -50

However, algae is back.

So I will be slamming again.

However, what could have gone wrong?

I thought I was doing really good.

I would appreciate any suggestions.

Cheers,
Avi
 
Nash,

Looks like you are doing good with this one test results. What has the trend been and have you had any excursions? Given the size of pool and all the spots for algae to hide I'd guess that even though your pool water analysis show acceptable levels you may be much lower than that in the nooks and crannies. I'd do the SLAM then leave your level a few parts higher for a while. Also make sure you run the features and spa at least an hour or two per day. Several species of algae can form spores when they get stressed that are extremely resistant to attack that then germinate when less stressed. Where is the algae presenting itself?

Chris
 
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PoolStored said:
Are you using pool math? Go to gear in upper right hand corner, scroll to bottom of setting and turn on log sharing. Like to look at your logs.
Click to expand...
I use poolmath to calculate, but have not logged. I think app asked for premium signup and I was not sure if I am going to log much, so I did not sign up.
 
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setsailsoon said:
Nash,

Looks like you are doing good with this one test results. What has the trend been and have you had any excursions? Given the size of pool and all the spots for algae to hide I'd guess that even though your pool water analysis show acceptable levels you may be much lower than that in the nooks and crannies. I'd do the SLAM then leave your level a few parts higher for a while. Also make sure you run the features and spa at least an hour or two per day. Several species of algae can form spores when they get stressed that are extremely resistant to attack that then germinate when less stressed. Where is the algae presenting itself?

Chris
Click to expand...
There is one shaded area where it is blooming the most. It looked like it happened over night.

I will keep FC higher than recommended.
 
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