SWCG Thoughts/Recommendations (San Antonio)

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Burke_B

Burke_B

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2022
84
San Antonio, TX
Pool Size
13700
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello all,

I am in the "pondering" phase of adding a SWCG and would welcome recommendations on brand/model and placement. I have a Hayward system with a pro-logic panel and automation. Pool size is believed to be just under 14,000 gallons (including attached spa). Based on the reading I have done, it seems that I should stick with a Hayward SWCG for automation compatibility but that is about as far as I have gotten on brand. What does connecting it to my automation system actually get me?

As for placement, I was thinking I might try to take the install opportunity to also install a heater by-pass valve and then install the SWCG in place of the tab dispenser that I am not using.

I welcome any and all additional thoughts and recommendations.

Here is a pic of my pad. If additional pics of some part of the pad or pool or other info that isn't in my signature block would be helpful, let me know.

Thanks!


IMG_0410 (1).jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks @Jimrahbe !

Will I need a control panel of some sort as well or is there a fairly easy way to connect the cell and sensor to the panel that I have? Pic attached if you can tell enough from the pic alone to know.

Any thoughts on a good online source to purchase? I have seen inyopools mentioned but, from their site, it doesn't look like they carry the Hayward cells.


IMG_0565.jpeg
 
JamesW said:
Remove this black piece, plug in the cell and enable the chlorinator.

View attachment 430414

Hayward AquaRite Replacement T-CELL-15, 40,000 Gal Pool, TurboCell, Model W3T-CELL-15 - INYOPools.com

Looking for a replacement cell for your AquaRite salt pool chlorine generator? Consider the Hayward T-Cell-15 replacement cell! This reliable and durable cell is designed to provide long-lasting performance and efficient chlorine generation for your pool. With easy installation and low...
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
Click to expand...
And the cell wire/cable gets routed thru the cutout in the lower left of the pic @JamesW posted above.
 
Wow!

Thank you @JamesW @proavia and @Jimrahbe !

I went out and removed my panel cover and also unlocked the configuration menu to view everything. This seems pretty doable for even someone that spends most of his time behind a desk! What about the flow sensor? Is that a fairly simple plug in addition too?

I had seen that replacement cell on the inyo pools site but didn't realize when I posed the question that that was all I was going to need (except the flow sensor of course). I assume that this is also the flow sensor/switch that I will need (to include the tee and the unions): Goldline Controls Hayward T-CELL Plumbing Kit (Includes Unions and Flow Switch) - PKIT - INYOPools.com

It looks like I could possibly also install either the circupool or pureline cells instead of the Hayward. The Circupool appears to have the same life expectancy (10,000 hrs) while the pureline is only rated for 7,000 hrs so I will need to keep that in mind. But, they appear to be otherwise completely compatible with my automation. Is that correct? Is the flow sensor/switch also just as interchangeable?

Thanks again all!
 

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Burke_B said:
The Circupool appears to have the same life expectancy (10,000 hrs) while the pureline is only rated for 7,000 hrs so I will need to keep that in mind.
Click to expand...
ModelSizelbs/dayCell Lifetotal
Capacity
(lbs)		Price (USD)$/lbs
RJ-6060K3.1100001,292$1,693$1.31
PL770360k3.187000928$1,100$1.19
 
All,

I have been researching my equipment list for this project. I know that I need a flow switch. It looks like I can get a "P-Kit" for around $200. Or, I can purchase the parts to build my own for significantly less with a replacement flow switch.

PureLine Goldline / AquaLogic Flow Switch 15' Cable (No Tee) (GLX-FLO-RP) - INYOPools.com

Replacement Flow Switch for Hayward AquaRite Salt System
www.inyopools.com

Pureline Replacement 2" Union, Nut & Tail Piece, Compatible with Aquarite® - GLX-CELL-UNION - INYOPools.com

GLX-CELL-UNION - 2” UNION, NUT & TAIL PIECE (GLX-CELL-UNION)
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

I was in Lowe's Friday evening looking at their PVC offerings. It looks like they have the tee for under $7.

Any reason not to purchase the parts separately and build my own?

Thanks again all!
 
It's basically the same thing.

The hardware store one sometimes have a hole that is too small and you have to drill it out a little bit bigger.

The threads are the same, but some Ts have a lip inside that is too small for the flow switch.

You would need a drill bit to drill the lip part out without damaging the threads.



View attachment 439271
 
Last edited by a moderator:
@JamesW I appreciate your previous responses to my questions on this thread so I hope you don't mind me "tagging" you again.

I have started getting my parts together (just a few 90 degree elbows and a threaded coupling short at this point) for this project and have attempted to sketch out my basic design that includes a vertical install of the SWCG, a 3-way valve to isolate the heater if ever needed and a check valve to prevent flow back to the heater though I understand that is not really needed for a SWCG install. Attached is my attempt to render a drawing of my design. Before I start cutting pipe, I wanted to run this by you and/or other on the forum for thoughts. Hopefully, if you compare this rudimentary drawing with the photo in post #1, it will give you a good mental picture of what I am planning.

A couple of questions.
1. Any concern with all of these 90 degree bends? If I counted correctly, this adds 3 to what is already there.
2. I purchased the incorrect 3-way valve. The connections on the valve are the same size as my 2" pipe so I am planning to use sleeves to make the connections. I assume this is acceptable?
3. I plan to add a threaded coupling at above the 90 degree going to the pool return valve and one on the down leg of the 3 way valve so that I can disassemble the whole works without cutting pipe if I were to ever need to separate the filter > 3-way > heater section from the heater > check valve > SWCG > pool return section before the SWCG vertical install (hopefully, that explanation makes sense). Any concerns with this plan?

As an FYI, I currently have about 27 inches in that leg where the current chlorine tablet feeder is from the "down leg" coming out of the heater before it makes the 45 back to the pool return. I am hoping I can get all of this in there with the vertical rise for the SWCG install without it being too cramped.

Any concerns with this design/layout? Do you (or anyone else reading this thread) see a better alternative?

Thanks again!

Burke


SWCG install design 2022-0925.jpg
 
Thanks for the bump, Pat!

I am considering hiring someone with more experience with PVC and pool pads than me to come out and do the install.

I realize that it may be a long shot but is there any chance anyone on the forum has a recommendation for plumber in the San Antonio area?
 
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