New Construction Started - Willis, TX (north of Houston)

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JamesW said:
Regarding the 3.5 lb. check valve bypass, I believe that it will work as described, however, on the Pentair Ultratemp (Heat Pump), they use a 12 lb. check valve bypass, which I think is incorrect, but maybe I am missing something.

I would recommend that you confirm with Pentair that a 3.5 lb. bypass would be correct for the MasterTemp before you use it.

I would also verify that the flow gets to 40 GPM, or higher, in the heater before the 3.5 lb check valve begins to bypass flow around the heater.

In any case, using the 3.5 lb check valve is at your discretion and risk.

The flow switch can help ensure that the flow is adequate.
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In the event I can't get an answer from Pentair with regards to the spring rating, which seems to be a likelihood, I think I will just omit the check valve versus installing one that doesn't function properly.
 
Duffatola said:
I had two in for the bubblers all along but may drop down to 1.5".

View attachment 427437
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I just thought of something. The discharge is 3" but I'm reducing to 2", therefore I'll need a reducer and use a 2" 3-way valve. I think I can create a valve and specials BOM now.

1656023020849.png
 
For the line that branches to the bubblers, I would use a 2.5" x 2" reducer in the three-way valve and then 2" pipe to a 2" T and then (2) 2" x 1.5" reducer bushings to the bubblers.

You should also have some sort of filters on the lines to the sheers or the thin slits can get clogged with debris, which is difficult to clean.

The Jandy or Praher should work.

A Sheer Descent filter/strainer (p/n 3456), or equivalent, must be installed on the return side of the pump, between the pump and the waterfall. Refer to Figure 11.

1656082569986.png
 
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JamesW said:
You should also have some sort of filters on the lines to the sheers or the thin slits can get clogged with debris, which is difficult to clean.
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The Grey symbol is the Jandy filter/strainer (see Symbol Legend). I just didn't call them out.
 

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JamesW said:
For the line that branches to the bubblers, I would use a 2.5" x 2" reducer in the three-way valve and then 2" pipe to a 2" T and then (2) 2" x 1.5" reducer bushings to the bubblers.
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I considered this but thought the distance would be so short, it wouldn't make that much of a difference.
 
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I would get one with a pressure gauge to help with system diagnostics and performance evaluation.

The pump can show an estimated flow (GPM), RPM and system pressure (PSI or total system head loss), but having the actual pressure measurements can help verify the estimated results from the pump display.
 
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JamesW said:
Check with @wgipe for the specifics on the flow switch.

Here is a different model.

Raypak Flow Switch Kit - 007142F - INYOPools.com

Flow Switch Kit - 007142F
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
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Got pricing from PB for the Hayward and Raypak flow switches. The Raypak is in the same pricing ballpark as the Harwil, therefore i would consider either. Any words of wisdom?

Harwil $150.00 + shipping
Hayward UHXFSW1930 $266.98
Raypak 007142F $167.59
 

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