*My first test w/ Taylor K-2006C*

So I will always have to run the SWG for at least 14hrs at 100%?
You need to run the SWCG enough to create the FC you need for your pool. You learn how much that is by testing regularly, and adjusting the pump run time and/or the SWCG % to meet the pools needs.
It is best to stay at or above the Target level FC based on the CYA level. FC/CYA Levels

Your IC40 is undersized for your pool. As you live in the northern climates, you likely will get by with only having to run the system 14-18 hours per day during the swim season.

How are you ensuring the IC40 has its power completely off when the pump is not running?
 
10ml sample at 11 drops = FC 5.5 (11 x .5)
25ml sample at 24 drops = FC 4.8 (24*.2)
Ok with that after adding 2 gallons of chlorine last night (with a zero reading). Do I keep adding and retest or just retest throughout the day and again this evening to see if I’ve lost any? Also this am test I did have the SWG on at 20%. Not sure if that matters?
Thanks
 
You need to run the SWCG enough to create the FC you need for your pool. You learn how much that is by testing regularly, and adjusting the pump run time and/or the SWCG % to meet the pools needs.
It is best to stay at or above the Target level FC based on the CYA level. FC/CYA Levels

Your IC40 is undersized for your pool. As you live in the northern climates, you likely will get by with only having to run the system 14-18 hours per day during the swim season.

How are you ensuring the IC40 has its power completely off when the pump is not running?
So are you saying the PB should of put a bigger SWG generator in for our size pool? This is our first year opening (May 2022).
We have not turn off the pump since we opened. The pump run 24/7 at different interval speeds. The SWG is set at 20% most of the time there has been a few times I increase yo 40%. But honesty no one explained to us about increasing to keep the FC at the target level. The only thing the PB said was keep it to the lowest possible to sustain life of SWG.
 
TFPC recommends a SWCG rated for at least 2x your pool volume. An IC60 would have been a better value for you. But as you live in a northern climate and your season is short, you will be OK. If you plan to run the pump 24/7 all the time then just be sure the rpm is enough to close the flow switch on the SWCG and adjust the % generation to meet your FC needs. The Pentair Intellichlor is not the best SWCG for a standalone (non automation) application, but you can make it work.
 
TFPC recommends a SWCG rated for at least 2x your pool volume. An IC60 would have been a better value for you. But as you live in a northern climate and your season is short, you will be OK. If you plan to run the pump 24/7 all the time then just be sure the rpm is enough to close the flow switch on the SWCG and adjust the % generation to meet your FC needs. The Pentair Intellichlor is not the best SWCG for a standalone (non automation) application, but you can make it work.
Is there a base or a guide to know where to start with the pump speed and SWG? I currently have it scheduled to run 2 hrs in morning at 2200 SWG 20%, 10hrs during the day 1350 (minimal for my SWG flow to work), 12hrs during evening/night 1750 RPMs. SWG is set 20% at all times.

If I don’t have to run the pump 24hrs I would like not to. It sounds like with my SWG I will have to manually adjust it to set it with the pump schedule if I want the % to change with the speed adjustment schedule? Or is it just best to run it at the 100% for hours needed and the turn off flow at running a lower pump speed. I am sorry but I just feel lost in where to even start.
 
You run the pump for a reason. Your first reason is to create the chlorine you need each day. Your second reason is to skim the surface, if the time needed to create chlorine is not sufficient to keep the surface skimmed.

RPM levels again are what you need. Does the pool skim at the rpm needed for the SWCG?

Without automation, your settings on the Intellichlor are very wide apart (20%, 40%,...) thus you will likely be better off selecting a %SWCG setting (such as 80 or 100%) and then varying the pump run time over the season to create the chlorine needed.

The only issue is your SWCG needs to be completely powered off (no lights, none) when the pump is not running. Is yours?
 
So with my first FC test this am after adding the chlorine what should be my next step? I can see the bottom of my deep end but it’s not crystal clear yet. Do I just now kick up my SWG % and retest later? I am lost
We're back to an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm algae. Since your pool has been very low on chlorine for X-amount of days, and it's cloudy, you could forego the OCLT and go straight to the SLAM Process. Your choice.

Before starting the SLAM, adjust pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid.
 
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You run the pump for a reason. Your first reason is to create the chlorine you need each day. Your second reason is to skim the surface, if the time needed to create chlorine is not sufficient to keep the surface skimmed.

RPM levels again are what you need. Does the pool skim at the rpm needed for the SWCG?

Without automation, your settings on the Intellichlor are very wide apart (20%, 40%,...) thus you will likely be better off selecting a %SWCG setting (such as 80 or 100%) and then varying the pump run time over the season to create the chlorine needed.

The only issue is your SWCG needs to be completely powered off (no lights, none) when the pump is not running. Is yours?
Your know the skimming has been an issue too. I adjusted my 3 return jets to flow clockwise and the one in the shallow end toward the top. It how gotten better but there are still little particles on top: I did order some skimmer socks that are coming today so I hopes that helps.

I am going to reset the speed schedule and set the SWG to 80% and see what happens. By increasing the SWG will that cause us to use more salt to have to add more during the season?

When you say the SWG should be completely powered off when the pump isn’t running or you referring to when we shut the pump off to backwash, waste, rinse, etc or you refer to if I don’t run the pump for X hours?
How do I shut the SWG completely off?

As always, Thank you very much! You guys have be so patient with me. I hate that we weren’t taught any of this. I feel like I am going backward.
 
We're back to an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm algae. Since your pool has been very low on chlorine for X-amount of days, and it's cloudy, you could forego the OCLT and go straight to the SLAM Process. Your choice.

Before starting the SLAM, adjust pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid.
Ok so should I wait until this PM and record the results to see if I lost any FC from this AM’s result? Or do I test tonight and then again in the morning AM to see if I lost any?
 
By increasing the SWG will that cause us to use more salt to have to add more during the season?
The SWCG doe NOT consume salt. Salt is lost due to splashout, backwash, draining, etc.

etc or you refer to if I don’t run the pump for X hours?
How do I shut the SWG completely off?
Only if you schedule the pump to be off. I am asking because if the SWCG is powered on without water flowing through it, there is an explosion risk. I suspect your pool builder ignored that. Most do.
 
The SWCG doe NOT consume salt. Salt is lost due to splashout, backwash, draining, etc.


Only if you schedule the pump to be off. I am asking because if the SWCG is powered on without water flowing through it, there is an explosion risk. I suspect your pool builder ignored that. Most do.
Gotcha on the SWCG does not consume salt and on being off when scheduled pump is off.

How do I shut it completely off? So If I plan on scheduling the pump to be off I should probably do that at a time where I can manually shut the SWCG off.
 
You can use a timer for the SWCG. It needs to be wired in and then synced when you have the pump scheduled to be off.
 
I retest CYA (after one gallon of liquid). Not sure of this test. Is the black dot completely gone or just not black? Still seeing a faded dot at 30.
CYA needs to be minimum 30 ppm. This is how the black dot should look...bottom photo:

1655821716786.png
Ok so should I wait until this PM and record the results to see if I lost any FC from this AM’s result? Or do I test tonight and then again in the morning AM to see if I lost any?
Today, test the same time you did before you added chlorine. Based on test result, raise FC back to target range.

After sunset, shut off SWG and take your first FC/CC test for the OCLT (leave SWG off).

Before sunrise complete another FC/CC test. Compare results from the night prior. If over 1 ppm, SLAM time.
 
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CYA needs to be minimum 30 ppm. This is how the black dot should look...bottom photo:

View attachment 426400

Today, test the same time you did before you added chlorine. Based on test result, raise FC back to target range.

After sunset, shut off SWG and take your first FC/CC test for the OCLT (leave SWG off).

Before sunrise complete another FC/CC test. Compare results from the night prior. If over 1 ppm, SLAM time.
Ok the CYA end test looked like the Mid test so I assumed I am still at 20 then.
 
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We're back to an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm algae. Since your pool has been very low on chlorine for X-amount of days, and it's cloudy, you could forego the OCLT and go straight to the SLAM Process. Your choice.

Before starting the SLAM, adjust pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid.
I think I am going to move right into the SLAM.
My PH is still at 7.8 so I will go get some muralists acid because the dry stuff isn’t working.
My CYA appears to not be at the 30 mark yet so is it Okay to move to the SLAM?
Can I keep the SWCG (80-%) running during the SLAM?
With my AM FC at 5.5 (25ml) and 4.8 (10ml) do I just add enough chlorine to get me to 6? Once I get to my FC target then do the overnight test? If all is good then I need to run my schedule pump and SWCG % to keep the FC at 3? So retest daily and adjust the speed and SWCG as needed to maintain the FC?
 
some muralists acid because the dry stuff isn’t working.
Dry Acid will damage your SWCG. The Intellichlor manual specifically points that out.

You will use liquid chlorine to follow the SLAM Process. You need to raise your FC to 40% of your CYA level. So if you are targeting a 30 ppm CYA for now, that would be a FC of 12 ppm.
 
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Ok the CYA end test looked like the Mid test so I assumed I am still at 20 then.
I added the liquid Stabilizer around 4:30pm yesterday afternoon. Should I wait and retest this afternoon (24hrs) for it to take affect? Do you think that would make a difference in testing results?
 

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