Created. ThanksCreate Your Signature - Further Reading
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Created. ThanksCreate Your Signature - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Really helps us help you.
You need to run the SWCG enough to create the FC you need for your pool. You learn how much that is by testing regularly, and adjusting the pump run time and/or the SWCG % to meet the pools needs.So I will always have to run the SWG for at least 14hrs at 100%?
Ok with that after adding 2 gallons of chlorine last night (with a zero reading). Do I keep adding and retest or just retest throughout the day and again this evening to see if I’ve lost any? Also this am test I did have the SWG on at 20%. Not sure if that matters?10ml sample at 11 drops = FC 5.5 (11 x .5)
25ml sample at 24 drops = FC 4.8 (24*.2)
So are you saying the PB should of put a bigger SWG generator in for our size pool? This is our first year opening (May 2022).You need to run the SWCG enough to create the FC you need for your pool. You learn how much that is by testing regularly, and adjusting the pump run time and/or the SWCG % to meet the pools needs.
It is best to stay at or above the Target level FC based on the CYA level. FC/CYA Levels
Your IC40 is undersized for your pool. As you live in the northern climates, you likely will get by with only having to run the system 14-18 hours per day during the swim season.
How are you ensuring the IC40 has its power completely off when the pump is not running?
Is there a base or a guide to know where to start with the pump speed and SWG? I currently have it scheduled to run 2 hrs in morning at 2200 SWG 20%, 10hrs during the day 1350 (minimal for my SWG flow to work), 12hrs during evening/night 1750 RPMs. SWG is set 20% at all times.TFPC recommends a SWCG rated for at least 2x your pool volume. An IC60 would have been a better value for you. But as you live in a northern climate and your season is short, you will be OK. If you plan to run the pump 24/7 all the time then just be sure the rpm is enough to close the flow switch on the SWCG and adjust the % generation to meet your FC needs. The Pentair Intellichlor is not the best SWCG for a standalone (non automation) application, but you can make it work.
We're back to an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm algae. Since your pool has been very low on chlorine for X-amount of days, and it's cloudy, you could forego the OCLT and go straight to the SLAM Process. Your choice.So with my first FC test this am after adding the chlorine what should be my next step? I can see the bottom of my deep end but it’s not crystal clear yet. Do I just now kick up my SWG % and retest later? I am lost
Your know the skimming has been an issue too. I adjusted my 3 return jets to flow clockwise and the one in the shallow end toward the top. It how gotten better but there are still little particles on top: I did order some skimmer socks that are coming today so I hopes that helps.You run the pump for a reason. Your first reason is to create the chlorine you need each day. Your second reason is to skim the surface, if the time needed to create chlorine is not sufficient to keep the surface skimmed.
RPM levels again are what you need. Does the pool skim at the rpm needed for the SWCG?
Without automation, your settings on the Intellichlor are very wide apart (20%, 40%,...) thus you will likely be better off selecting a %SWCG setting (such as 80 or 100%) and then varying the pump run time over the season to create the chlorine needed.
The only issue is your SWCG needs to be completely powered off (no lights, none) when the pump is not running. Is yours?
Ok so should I wait until this PM and record the results to see if I lost any FC from this AM’s result? Or do I test tonight and then again in the morning AM to see if I lost any?We're back to an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm algae. Since your pool has been very low on chlorine for X-amount of days, and it's cloudy, you could forego the OCLT and go straight to the SLAM Process. Your choice.
Before starting the SLAM, adjust pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid.
The SWCG doe NOT consume salt. Salt is lost due to splashout, backwash, draining, etc.By increasing the SWG will that cause us to use more salt to have to add more during the season?
Only if you schedule the pump to be off. I am asking because if the SWCG is powered on without water flowing through it, there is an explosion risk. I suspect your pool builder ignored that. Most do.etc or you refer to if I don’t run the pump for X hours?
How do I shut the SWG completely off?
Gotcha on the SWCG does not consume salt and on being off when scheduled pump is off.The SWCG doe NOT consume salt. Salt is lost due to splashout, backwash, draining, etc.
Only if you schedule the pump to be off. I am asking because if the SWCG is powered on without water flowing through it, there is an explosion risk. I suspect your pool builder ignored that. Most do.
CYA needs to be minimum 30 ppm. This is how the black dot should look...bottom photo:I retest CYA (after one gallon of liquid). Not sure of this test. Is the black dot completely gone or just not black? Still seeing a faded dot at 30.
Today, test the same time you did before you added chlorine. Based on test result, raise FC back to target range.Ok so should I wait until this PM and record the results to see if I lost any FC from this AM’s result? Or do I test tonight and then again in the morning AM to see if I lost any?
Ok the CYA end test looked like the Mid test so I assumed I am still at 20 then.CYA needs to be minimum 30 ppm. This is how the black dot should look...bottom photo:
View attachment 426400
Today, test the same time you did before you added chlorine. Based on test result, raise FC back to target range.
After sunset, shut off SWG and take your first FC/CC test for the OCLT (leave SWG off).
Before sunrise complete another FC/CC test. Compare results from the night prior. If over 1 ppm, SLAM time.
I think I am going to move right into the SLAM.We're back to an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm algae. Since your pool has been very low on chlorine for X-amount of days, and it's cloudy, you could forego the OCLT and go straight to the SLAM Process. Your choice.
Before starting the SLAM, adjust pH to 7.2 using muriatic acid.
Dry Acid will damage your SWCG. The Intellichlor manual specifically points that out.some muralists acid because the dry stuff isn’t working.
I added the liquid Stabilizer around 4:30pm yesterday afternoon. Should I wait and retest this afternoon (24hrs) for it to take affect? Do you think that would make a difference in testing results?Ok the CYA end test looked like the Mid test so I assumed I am still at 20 then.