Plumbing configuration check (new SWG install)

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Don't worry about the way it looks now. You should put a couple coats of paint on the PVC to protect it from UV exposure.

The corded side of the cell is the inlet side. Just flip it around.

The elbow after the cell appears to be a DWV (Drain, Waste, Vent) fitting, not rated for pressure applications. If so, I would swap it our before continuing on with plumbing.

Did you test salt level before adding salt. It's common for pools to have existing salt from other forms of chlorination and chemical additions. Mine was around 1200 after three years of non-SWG chlorination.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I suppose with 1 drop = 220 the error range is wider.

Just saw this. For the K-1766 test (10mL sample), the multiplier is 200 ppm per drop.

 

[hexabc]

...
That's gonna be a monster of a SWG in your pool. You may be able to chlorinate a few of your neighbors' pools.

I don't know... I have installed RJ60+ in my pool which is about the same size. To get 4 ppm at sunset, I need to run the pump from 8am to 4pm with SWG at 60%. In the morning I have 3 ppm. My CYA is perhaps a little low (between 50 and 60 ppm), today I added more, aiming at 80. Will see if that will let me bring the RJ60's duty cycle down to 50%.

 

[Pauls234]

The corded side of the cell is the inlet side. Just flip it around.

The elbow after the cell appears to be a DWV (Drain, Waste, Vent) fitting, not rated for pressure applications. If so, I would swap it our before continuing on with plumbing.

Crud, I didn't think the inlet/outlet orientation mattered but looking at the diagrams I see it is always shown the other way than I have it. Can't just flip it though since I have all 2" from heater to cell, then 1.5" after the cell. So best bet is to change to 2" on both sides of cell, flip it, then reduce to 1.5" and into elbow. Or probably better to get a 2" elbow (you are right the one I currently have is DWV so needs replacing) then reduce after the elbow? When I fully hard plumb I'll probably switch to all 2" anyway.

I did test for salt before and it took only 1 drop, it's a replacement pool so new fill, and yes on the 200 per drop. I think I said 220 cause I had 11 drops so 2200 total.

Thanks for the close look before I went too far!

 

[Pauls234]

Check that, I can just flip it, so will just cut above elbow and get the proper pressure rated one. That makes this easier!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I don't know... I have installed RJ60+ in my pool which is about the same size. To get 4 ppm at sunset, I need to run the pump from 8am to 4pm with SWG at 60%. In the morning I have 3 ppm. My CYA is perhaps a little low (between 50 and 60 ppm), today I added more, aiming at 80. Will see if that will let me bring the RJ60's duty cycle down to 50%.

At 24/7 and 100% power, your SGW should raise FC by 19. Eight hours @ 60% raises FC by 3.8 ppm daily. That sounds about right to me for daily loss during swim season.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Check that, I can just flip it, so will just cut above elbow and get the proper pressure rated one. That makes this easier!

You should have two spare couplers...one 1.5" and one 2", so you have options. I like the 2" on each side, then reduce.

 

[Pauls234]

That's where I was leaning but HD didn't have any of the 2 to 1.5 pressure rated reducers so I'll do the full conversion to 2" next season!

 

[Pauls234]

Let things dry overnight then pressure tested system this AM with no leaks and added more salt. Tested salt at 3000 a few hours ago so added another bag to bring up a few hundred (specs say ideal is 3k-4k) and just connected and plugged in the brains. All is looking great, it loves the salt level and works fine on low speed and is now generating chlorine!

Thanks to everyone who helped along the way, especially Rancho and Newdude who carried me through the actual installation and looked at this with a critical eye. And of course TFP in general..... I never would've attempted this on my own without knowing I had the TFP team to turn to with questions. (Just like 7 years ago I installed a new liner all on my own.... but with TFP behind me! )

Now, the fun part of dialing it in and figuring out the timer stuff. I bought a smart plug that is connected to same timer as pump is on so will program it inside pump run time.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Thanks for the update and feedback. It's great when things work out well. Let us know if you need help getting it dialed in.

 

[Newdude]

Do as you did before Paul. You've been losing 2.5 ppm a day lately ? Set it to produce 2.5 ppm a day for now. Your choice if you adjust pump runtime or SWG, or both to get in in that sweet spot to add 2.5 plm a day. Be on the lookout for the need to increase production it as it gets to be the peak season. Then for the back half, it's a slow fall in daily loss and you'll be turning the unit down every couple of weeks to match.

When given the choice to underproduce or overproduce, choose over. Being 2 or 3 ppm above target won't hurt a thing and it's rather relieving to know you're covered for a couple days even with a power failure.