But when I was watching how to do the slam it says you need to do it if your CC level is .5 or above. My level is 0 so I’m not sure if slam is what I need to do…according to TFP I need to lower my TA and CH…but what do I do first?
Filters
- Thread starter Scranny
- Start date
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,861
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You can only lower CH by draining some water and refilling with lower CH fill water. A CH of 500 is not necessarily a reason to lower your CH.
Don't worry about TA. It will slowly lower itself when you add acid to keep pH in check.
CC above 0.5 is not the only indicator of needing to SLAM Process.
Your filter pressure rising quickly is an indicator of algae.
You need to SLAM Process - as others have already suggested.
Don't worry about TA. It will slowly lower itself when you add acid to keep pH in check.
CC above 0.5 is not the only indicator of needing to SLAM Process.
Your filter pressure rising quickly is an indicator of algae.
You need to SLAM Process - as others have already suggested.
- May 20, 2020
- 1,003
- Pool Size
- 13600
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Solaxx (Saltron) Reliant / Purechlor R5
No. Your CYA of 30 is good for the SLAM. If you add more you would need to use more chlorine.
Hello…my pool is crystal clear but over the weekend I lost all my chlorine. I have the fas-dpd test now and it’s at 0…literally no chlorine in pool at all and on Friday it was perfect!! We were gone for the weekend so I didn’t test Pool water Saturday or Sunday. What do I do to keep chlorine in my pool?
Here’s my readings
Fc-0
Cc-0
Ta- 180
Ph- 7.0
Cya-30
Ch- ran out of Reagent so couldn’t test
Fc-0
Cc-0
Ta- 180
Ph- 7.0
Cya-30
Ch- ran out of Reagent so couldn’t test
- May 20, 2020
- 1,003
- Pool Size
- 13600
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Solaxx (Saltron) Reliant / Purechlor R5
Chlorine is a consumable. You will lose likely 2-4ppm each day in a healthy pool. You should plan to add daily, and plan ahead if you’re going to be gone (more below).
You lose chlorine to any organics (algae, bacteria, etc) in the water as well as UV from the sun.
Your pool likely has algae (even if you can’t see it yet). As previously stated, you need to complete a SLAM Process. When you believe you have won the war, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm you aren’t losing any chlorine to organics.
Then, you need to plan to never fall below the minimum FC for your CYA on the FC/CYA Levels. With 30 CYA you should maintain between 4-6ppm FC. Your SLAM level is 12ppm. When I was manually dosing chlorine, if I left for the weekend I would raise my FC to SLAM level, and put on a solar cover (to reduce UV loss). That would keep me comfortably above minimum for at least a few days. If I was going away for longer (like a week), I’d do the same but also add a few trichlor “pucks” in a floater to feed the pool while I was gone.
The best option is a saltwater chlorine generator, which will dose chlorine automatically so you don’t need to do so daily.
None of the above will work to keep your chlorine where it needs to be if you have algae. The algae needs to be taken care of first.
You lose chlorine to any organics (algae, bacteria, etc) in the water as well as UV from the sun.
Your pool likely has algae (even if you can’t see it yet). As previously stated, you need to complete a SLAM Process. When you believe you have won the war, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm you aren’t losing any chlorine to organics.
Then, you need to plan to never fall below the minimum FC for your CYA on the FC/CYA Levels. With 30 CYA you should maintain between 4-6ppm FC. Your SLAM level is 12ppm. When I was manually dosing chlorine, if I left for the weekend I would raise my FC to SLAM level, and put on a solar cover (to reduce UV loss). That would keep me comfortably above minimum for at least a few days. If I was going away for longer (like a week), I’d do the same but also add a few trichlor “pucks” in a floater to feed the pool while I was gone.
The best option is a saltwater chlorine generator, which will dose chlorine automatically so you don’t need to do so daily.
None of the above will work to keep your chlorine where it needs to be if you have algae. The algae needs to be taken care of first.
Ok…the slam process is confusing to me…I can’t figure out how to use the pool math. I know…. I’m dense!! I don’t know what numbers to put into the blank spaces on the chart…I e tried filling it out numerous times but it doesn’t help on how much of bleach to add for slamming!!
You can use that old Pool Math if you can stand the colors, but the new Pool Math is an app for your phone or tablet.
For iOS, go to Pool Math by TroubleFreePool
For Android, go to Pool Math by TFP - Apps on Google Play
For iOS, go to Pool Math by TroubleFreePool
For Android, go to Pool Math by TFP - Apps on Google Play
- May 20, 2020
- 1,003
- Pool Size
- 13600
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Solaxx (Saltron) Reliant / Purechlor R5
The Smartphone App is definitely easier to use if you have a compatible device.
Can you advise what type of liquid chlorine/bleach you're using, i.e. what percent sodium hypochlorite it is? If you still need to get some, if you have a Menards near you they stock 12.5% liquid chlorine.
If you've got the 12.5% stuff, then 1 gallon of bleach will add 8.9ppm to 14,000 gallons of water. So to go from 0 to a SLAM level of 12, you'd add about 1 1/3 gallons. Or about 14-15 ounces for each PPM chlorine.
Now I’m super confused…I have the pool math app and that’s what i have..the picture I sent earlier. Is there a different app?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,656
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
- May 20, 2020
- 1,003
- Pool Size
- 13600
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Solaxx (Saltron) Reliant / Purechlor R5
The pic you sent earlier looked like the old Pool Math webpage-
PoolMath
Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.
www.troublefreepool.com
Maybe from within the app you went to pool school and then clicked on the old pool math link? Adding / viewing test results in the app should look like this:
Earlier in the month when I went to the pool store they said I needed to buy a stabilizer for my pool…so I bought a $67 jug of it…but now that I have read more up on it from TFP do I need to even add any? I’m wondering if I should return it…
- May 3, 2014
- 62,768
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What are your latest pool water chemistry test results using your own proper test kit?
- May 20, 2020
- 1,003
- Pool Size
- 13600
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Solaxx (Saltron) Reliant / Purechlor R5
OP has a K-2005 and added the FAS-DPD kit. Scranny, if your CYA is 30, you don't need to add any now. You may at some point, but the liquid stuff is hard to add in partial amounts because it likes to settle at the bottom of the jug. If it were me, I'd return that, and buy some dry/granular stabilizer to have on hand for when you need to boost your CYA.
Scranny, It's also a big help to the experts here if you can put your test kit and pool details in your signature.
Create Your Signature - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Similar threads
