My new pool part 2!

[Texas Splash]

2,400 seems a bit low, but do you have a Taylor K-1766 salt kit to test? If not, you're kind of stuck on what the SWG says which often times isn't accurate. If the cell is happy and working, that's good. With a new fill, you should be able to use the PoolMath APP's Effect of Adding to see what your salt level should be based on the # of bags added. That should be quite close.

 

[Newdude]

Don't forget that salt needs to be good and mixed, a full 24 hours with the cell off before you trust it.

 

[DieselBeast]

2,400 seems a bit low, but do you have a Taylor K-1766 salt kit to test? If not, you're kind of stuck on what the SWG says which often times isn't accurate. If the cell is happy and working, that's good. With a new fill, you should be able to use the PoolMath APP's Effect of Adding to see what your salt level should be based on the # of bags added. That should be quite close.

I don’t have the test, I guess I could run a sample over to pool company.

According to pool math I’m way low (starting at zero I would need 4 bags to get to 2400 where I am now).

I’ll prob throw another bag in because it only had 2 x 20kg in it.

 

[DieselBeast]

Don't forget that salt needs to be good and mixed, a full 24 hours with the cell off before you trust it.

Will it hurt the SWG to run it if salt level is low?

 

[Texas Splash]

I’ll prob throw another bag in because it only had 2 x 20kg in it.

That sounds like a good choice.

 

[Newdude]

Will it hurt the SWG to run it if salt level is low

It may hurt if a slug or highly concentrated gallon goes through the (on) unit as the salt is still mixing. It likely won't turn on with a low salt condition, but it might turn on when the #s are close. It's best to physically turn it off. It will not bother a unit that is off, at all.

 

[DieselBeast]

It may hurt if a slug or highly concentrated gallon goes through the (on) unit as the salt is still mixing. It likely won't turn on with a low salt condition, but it might turn on when the #s are close. It's best to physically turn it off. It will not bother a unit that is off, at all.

Ahh ok ok, that makes sense. The water is 85, I might bump her to 90 to help facilitate mixing.

The salt bag I just dropped in was a bag that got wet, so it was a boulder .

I’ll let her mix over night and maybe bump it up to 20-25% until I can stabilize at the proper level

 

[DieselBeast]

Ok TFP fam,

I’m a few days in, things are looking “good” in general.

I got a disk test from my local pool supply to confirm my tests. They all line up which is nice to see.

Am I good to start bumping up my numbers, etc to where I normally have them ?
ie. FC 4-6

Are the iron / phosphates anything to be concerned with ?

 

[MITBeta]

What does your test kit say?

 

[DieselBeast]

What does your test kit say?

Same info, I got the pool store test to compare.

 

[Newdude]

I got the pool store test to compare

Would you ever cheat off the dumbest kid in class, just in case he got the answer right ? He gets it right 58% of the time you know. It might be this time.

No. You would not. You would take your chances with your 89% and laugh at whatever the dumbest kid picked.

 

[MITBeta]

In that case, add chlorine yesterday and do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight.

 

[DieselBeast]

Would you ever cheat off the dumbest kid in class, just in case he got the answer right ? He gets it right 58% of the time you know. It might be this time.

No. You would not. You would take your chances with your 89% and laugh at whatever the dumbest kid picked.

I get free tests there (I know the owner pretty well) and we were talking about this forum/ my test kit. We both wanted to know what mine would say compared to his machine.

Both were pretty well identical which is a refreshing take.

 

[DieselBeast]

In that case, add chlorine yesterday and do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight.

No chlorine loss, just low. I brought the levels up to ideal, and now just adjusting SWG To maintain!

 

[Newdude]

We both wanted to know what mine would say compared to his machine.

Make him repeat it three times in a row. That will give you both the answer you really want. The drops are repeatable.

You very well may have a diligent pool store where the owner calibrates the machine frequently and handles the samples with care. It does happen.

 

[DieselBeast]

Make him repeat it three times in a row. That will give you both the answer you really want. The drops are repeatable.

You very well may have a diligent pool store where the owner calibrates the machine frequently and handles the samples with care. It does happen.

Ok will do! Thank you, that’s a great idea!

 

[DieselBeast]

Ok latest stats:

Pool temp 92°
Gas bill = expensive

FC 5.3
CC 0
TA 110
CYA 55 (round up to 60)
PH 8
Salt 3100 (according to aqua link) should be around there by volume / salt added)

So if I’m understanding right, my numbers are lookin pretty ideal? (besides PH, I added muriatic acid this morning to bring that down)

If I’m striving for perfect #s, what do I change ?

Gurus please teach me! Lol

 

[Newdude]

If I’m striving for perfect #s, what do I change ?

There are no perfect #s and this is the largest flaw in the industry. Anything in range is equally ok. There is not a # that is more ok than ok. But if we polled all 300k members, we would have a 'what happens most' set of #s. Everybody else publishes that target as 'ideal' from statistics alone. It is irrelevant to how your pool responds and chasing them starts the roller coaster out of control. Whenever you see 'ideal' on the forum or poolmath, it's just citing the frequency that those #s show up. Listen to *your* pool, not mine.

So. You're doing GREAT. Verify you got the Ph in the 7s after adding. Manage the Ph anytime it hits 8 and the TA will find where it wants to be, helping to stabilize the Ph when it does.

A 60 CYA is probably fine for the early season so far up north, but be ready to bring it to 70 once it feels more summer-y out.

 

[DieselBeast]

There are no perfect #s and this is the largest flaw in the industry. Anything in range is equally ok. There is not a # that is more ok than ok. But if we polled all 300k members, we would have a 'what happens most' set of #s. Everybody else publishes that target as 'ideal' from statistics alone. It is irrelevant to how your pool responds and chasing them starts the roller coaster out of control. Whenever you see 'ideal' on the forum or poolmath, it's just citing the frequency that those #s show up. Listen to *your* pool, not mine.

So. You're doing GREAT. Verify you got the Ph in the 7s after adding. Manage the Ph anytime it hits 8 and the TA will find where it wants to be, helping to stabilize the Ph when it does.

A 60 CYA is probably fine for the early season so far up north, but be ready to bring it to 70 once it feels more summer-y out.

That’s man!!

Is there any downside of bumping CYA now?

I have noticed my pool seems to always have a little bit higher alkalinity. I believe my deck jet / water feature is partially to blame because of aeration ?

Sometimes I feel I’m not doing enough, but I feel that’s just because this system works so well!! I am very grateful to be part of such an amazing community!!

 

[Newdude]

there any downside of bumping CYA now?

Nope. Have at it now to save future DB a little effort.

I have noticed my pool seems to always have a little bit higher alkalinity

Your pool is unique. Even compared to your next door neighbor. Don't even THINK about comparing it to an Arizona pool. It will tell you where it wants to be if you listen to it.

Sometimes I feel I’m not doing enough, but I feel that’s just because this system works so well!!

It does. Especially with the SWG. I would get antsy after a week or two of not being needed and brush/vac the pool to appease the pool God's continual shining upon me.