What first?

[Jferguson51]

I TFP and Pool Math app, but I think I either am overwhelmed with the amount of info or I'm having a brain freeze.

When looking at my log it indicates what readings are out of range (either recommended or ideal). I know I need to fo us on correcting chlorine. So looking at today's log indicates FC and TA are out of rec range. And Ph and CYA aren't in the ideal range, but are in the rec range. So I focus on FC and TA...right? Do I put the chlorine in and wait an hour or so and the put in acid? Or do I put the chlorine in, and then wait for that to be in range AND THEN add the acid? HELP!

 

[magiteck]

How are you testing your water? 36 isn’t a valid CYA test result, round that to 40.
Assuming your numbers came from a reliable test:

You need chlorine pronto. Work on that first.

Then, add enough muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.6. Just leave at least 15 minutes between adding the chlorine and the acid.

Don’t worry about the TA. Lower the pH whenever it gets to 7.9/8, and the TA will come down a bit each time until it settles in a good spot.

 

[Jferguson51]

Still working with Leslie's numbers until I get test kit (hopefully tomorrow)

 

[Oly]

Adding pool chemicals using pool store test results in Pool Math is not wise.
Assume only that your FC is low and add enough liquid chlorine to keep it above 5ppm until your drop test kit arrives.

 

[magiteck]

Still working with Leslie's numbers until I get test kit (hopefully tomorrow)

Adding pool chemicals using pool store test results in Pool Math is not wise.
Assume only that your FC is low and add enough liquid chlorine to keep it above 5ppm until your drop test kit arrives.

What Oly said. Just add the chlorine for now. Post up a full set of test results from your new kit when it arrives and we can advise from there. Nothing in the numbers you posted (aside from chlorine) needs to be addressed urgently, so you're good to wait.

 

[Jferguson51]

I got myTaylor K-2006 test kit today. My head may explode. Not the easy peasy solution made out to be. But here are the results. Not holding chlorine....put in 2 Gallons of liquid last night. That was the 3rd day of adding chlorine with nothing holding. HERE ARE THE TAYLOR READINGS. HELP!!!

 

[IceShadow]

Your CH is pretty high. What is the CH of your fill water?

The CYA test is logarithmic and you can’t extrapolate between lines. If it’s between 30 and 40 when the dot disappears, round up and call it 40.

 

[magiteck]

I got myTaylor K-2006 test kit today. My head may explode. Not the easy peasy solution made out to be. But here are the results. Not holding chlorine....put in 2 Gallons of liquid last night. That was the 3rd day of adding chlorine with nothing holding. HERE ARE THE TAYLOR READINGS. HELP!!!

I know the tests can seem like a lot; just take it one step at a time, read the directions. It’s not hard, just “a lot” at first. I highly recommend a Speed Stir / Smart Stir. It does all the swirling for you, so one less thing to think about, and makes it a lot easier.

Onto your test results. Since your FC has been down to 0, there’s very likely algae in the water. Time to SLAM Process

Read through the SLAM link above.

Watch the video below:


Fire away with questions!

 

[Jferguson51]

I agree something is eating g the chlorine, but my pool is pristine! Still slam or just keep dumping chlorine in?

 

[magiteck]

I agree something is eating g the chlorine, but my pool is pristine! Still slam or just keep dumping chlorine in?

SLAM. If the pool is clear, it should go quick. You can also do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight to see what you’re losing without UV.

 

[Jferguson51]

SLAM. If the pool is clear, it should go quick. You can also do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight to see what you’re losing without UV.

Ok.....so I just did my Taylor test and got FC of .4. I really have not idea if that's correct because at the beginning of the test when I put in the DPD Powder I can’t make the water turn pink regardless of how many scoops I put in. Does that effect the rest of the FAS-DPD test as you go along?

 

[IceShadow]

You only need enough powder to leave a little undissolved in the sample. If it doesn’t turn pink, your FC is 0. You need to add more liquid chlorine.

 

[Jferguson51]

Here are tonight's readings

 

[IceShadow]

That said: you still haven’t answered about the fill water. I’m worried that your CH is reaching levels that are hard to manage and you might need a water exchange to bring it down.

 

[magiteck]

Here are tonight's readings

A couple things:

1- You can save a lot of reagents if you use a 10ml sample for your FC test. 10ml water, one heaping scoop of powder, and then each drop is 0.5ppm chlorine.

2- Your FC is still way too low. At a CYA of 30, you should be between 4-6 on a good day. But we want to get you up to SLAM level, which is 12ppm. In your 21,000 gallons, add 2.5 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine or 2 gallons of 12% to raise your FC to 12. After 15-20 minutes, test to make sure that you’ve reached that level.

Then, if you can, test again in the morning before the sun hits the pool. The difference between your level tonight after dosing and tomorrow morning is your overnight loss. If that number is >1, you’ve got organics and need to maintain that 12ppm SLAM level as consistently as possible until they’re dead. Once you can confirm they’re all dead with another overnight loss test, you can let the FC level drift back down to 4-6.

Also, as @IceShadow suggests, you should test your fill water for CH (calcium). If it’s at all high, you’re likely looking at at least a partial drain/fill. And if you have to do that, it may make sense to do so before the SLAM as it will reduce the concentration of organics in the water.

 

[Jferguson51]

A couple things:

1- You can save a lot of reagents if you use a 10ml sample for your FC test. 10ml water, one heaping scoop of powder, and then each drop is 0.5ppm chlorine.

2- Your FC is still way too low. At a CYA of 30, you should be between 4-6 on a good day. But we want to get you up to SLAM level, which is 12ppm. In your 21,000 gallons, add 2.5 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine or 2 gallons of 12% to raise your FC to 12. After 15-20 minutes, test to make sure that you’ve reached that level.

Then, if you can, test again in the morning before the sun hits the pool. The difference between your level tonight after dosing and tomorrow morning is your overnight loss. If that number is >1, you’ve got organics and need to maintain that 12ppm SLAM level as consistently as possible until they’re dead. Once you can confirm they’re all dead with another overnight loss test, you can let the FC level drift back down to 4-6.

Also, as @IceShadow suggests, you should test your fill water for CH (calcium). If it’s at all high, you’re likely looking at at least a partial drain/fill. And if you have to do that, it may make sense to do so before the SLAM as it will reduce the concentration of organics in the water.

My Fill water has a CH of 80. Good to go with SLAM?

 

[magiteck]

My Fill water has a CH of 80. Good to go with SLAM?

Yeah I think you should be OK. You’re going to want to get that CH in the pool down a bit, but should be able to manage with replacing some pool water with rain water over time. I imagine you get enough rain in Houston.

But do not under any circumstances use calcium hypochlorite “shock” for your pool.

 

[Jferguson51]

That said: you still haven’t answered about the fill water. I’m worried that your CH is reaching levels that are hard to manage and you might need a water exchange to bring it down.

The fill water has a CH of 80

 

[Jferguson51]

You only need enough powder to leave a little undissolved in the sample. If it doesn’t turn pink, your FC is 0. You need to add more liquid chlorine.

So it doesn't turn oink, then you don't add R-0871 but you would move on to R-0003 to see if sample turns pink, etc. In other words move beyond the FC readin?

 

[Jferguson51]

The fill water has a CH of 80

But I drained 18" 2 weeks ago. If you think I should drain more....how much should I drain this time.?