Followed PoolMath. ph off the chart. Pool turning green. Help?

[stretchphoto]

Ph was 7 this morning. PoolMath said to add twenty pounds borax so that’s what I did. Ph now off the friggin chart high. Pool turning green. Never had a green pool when I was paying the pool store so I’m pretty frustrated with this new process.

What happened and what can I do to fix it?

Thanks.

 

[AK-]

On the pool math log can you click on pH and take a screenshot?

I wonder what you have there for pool size and/or pH target.

Starting at a pH of 7.0 pool math tells me to add 22lb to get pH to 8.1 on a 22K gal pool or to 7.6 on a 42K gal pool.

 

[stretchphoto]

Here you go. Thank you.

Also a photo of the cloudy greenish pool.

 

[ajw22]

Next time just aerate to raise your pH. Or do nothing and your pH will naturally rise due to your TA of 180. pH of 7.0 was perfectly fine to be left alone.

I think the sudden pH rise caused iron in your water to precipitate out.

GREEN water, IRON?, how do I fix?

From another post with green water I saw it suggested that my green water could be iron. I have well water and just refilled the pool after having the liner replaced. I put all the rest of my chemicals in yesterday and saw this today. My pH and TA are way off because I used washing soda for the...

www.troublefreepool.com

Green water- Iron? Algae?

FC- 8 CC- 0 CYA- ran out of solution but last I checked was under 30. Have not added any since. TA- 150 pH- 7.5 Pool water about 80 degrees The water is clear green. Not just a tinge green- very green but I can completely see through it. When I drained and filled my pool just over 3 weeks ago...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[stretchphoto]

So here’s a question -

What’s the point of the fancy & expensive test kit and the massive amount of time spent using it if one should follow some of the recommendations but not others? And how to know which ones to follow and which ones to ignore. Seems like a fatal flaw to me, but what do I know. I’ve only had a never-green pool for ten years.

I thought adding twenty pounds of borax to ph7 was nuts.

But I did what the app told me.

 

[ajw22]

But I did what the app told me.

Don't become a slave to the robots.

 

[stretchphoto]

Dude, from my experience that’s what this site is about.

 

[stretchphoto]

I have to crash. Been up since 5 and didn’t have time for lunch. No food in the house so a PBJ for dinner.

If anyone could post suggestions for getting me
Out of this mess I’d be grateful. I’m hoping to do whatever needs to be done tomorrow morning. Starting with a new set of tests, I reckon.

Thank you.

 

[PoolStored]

Hey @stretchphoto, we got you. Can you tell me the dimensions of your pool? Width, Length and depths, deep and shallow?

Dude, from my experience that’s what this site is about.

I'm new too, I actually think it is more about learning. I'm still learning. pH in all pools tends to rise over time. CO2 in solution (water) wants to reach equilibrium with the air. Because pool water tends to have more CO2 than the atmosphere, pH always rises until it is in equilibrium. Without getting technical, pH in SWCG pools tends to rise faster. Most of us have learned that ANY pH that starts with a 7 is just fine and doesn't NEED to be adjusted. I understand your frustration with pool math, but as we have learned, through Pool School, there are nuances. We are here to help!

 

[stretchphoto]

Hey @stretchphoto, we got you. Can you tell me the dimensions of your pool? Width, Length and depths, deep and shallow?


I'm new too, I actually think it is more about learning. I'm still learning. pH in all pools tends to rise over time. CO2 in solution (water) wants to reach equilibrium with the air. Because pool water tends to have more CO2 than the atmosphere, pH always rises until it is in equilibrium. Without getting technical, pH in SWCG pools tends to rise faster. Most of us have learned that ANY pH that starts with a 7 is just fine and doesn't NEED to be adjusted. I understand your frustration with pool math, but as we have learned, through Pool School, there are nuances. We are here to help!

Yes. Manana. Thank you.

 

[PoolStored]

Lots of people just want it fixed. Now. Sometimes doing less is more. Also, as I said I'm always learning. Here is a re-learning from this week:

When FC is above 10, your pH test is invalid/won't work. I've know this for over a year, and as a TFP guide, I likely have told a dozen people the same in last 6 months.

I'm having my deck refinished and have a suction side leak, so I raised my FC to 14 so I could turn my pump off until parts got here and sand blasting was done. Tested pH at 8.0+, added muriatic to lower it. THEN I remembered. Thankfully, I didn't tank pH and all is good.

Point is, we are human and pool math isn't perfect. It still requires some level of understanding and is just a tool. Knowing how to use the tool is key, and that is what we are all about.

 

[Mdragger88]

The green & cloudy is likely algae being that your fc has been below minimum for your cya in all your logs. FC/CYA Levels
The SLAM Process is necessary to deal with the algae.
Before beginning slam ph needs to be around 7.2. Being as you may not have the volume quite dialed in you should use 7.6 or 7.8 as your poolmath target & see where that actually lands u. Then you can readjust.
If u ever feel like something is not right - cut the dose in half then test - u can always dose again.
I sense your frustration but Poolmath is simply a calculator- it relies on your input for certain values like pool volume.
For future reference- ph in the 7’s is fine
Adequate Fc is paramount
All these things can be fixed- start again fresh in the morning.

 

[PoolStored]

Adequate Fc is paramount

This is a great catch. SWCG are great at MAINTAINING FC, not so great at increasing FC. If you can, increase your FC using liquid chlorine an then dial in you SWCG to maintain FC appropriate for your CYA. FC/CYA Levels

 

[ateevans]

I understand your frustration with pool math, but as we have learned, through Pool School, there are nuances. We are here to help!

Agreed with you, PoolStored. I've got my new pool under construction, and haven't started managing the water yet. But I'm here every day trying to learn something, taking notes, and formulating my plan for when we're cleared to start using the pool.

Biggest thing I've learned thus far is that everyone's pool is different. There are some basic principles that apply across the board, but there is no "magic recipe" that guarantees your pool stays perfect. As with any science, there are variables unique to every situation. We humans tend to exacerbate those variables through testing flaws, inaccurate measuring or incorrect baseline information.

I've also learned that MANY people have had success through this program and the help of the many knowledgable community members. Most challenges are manageable with some time and curiosity.

 

[AK-]

This is a great catch. SWCG are great at MAINTAINING FC, not so great at increasing FC. If you can, increase your FC using liquid chlorine an then dial in you SWCG to maintain FC appropriate for your CYA. FC/CYA Levels

In other words have a jug or two of LC handy to start and to close your pool.

Biggest thing I've learned thus far is that everyone's pool is different.

Every pool is unique in one way or another and some pool owners are able to get away with things that most of us can’t.

But let’s be honest, people start using TFPC to cure a Frequent Algae Syndrome just to be afflicted by Constant Testing Syndrome and Lack of Chlorine Anxiety. Sure the last two will go away with knowledge and experience….

 

[stretchphoto]

Good morning. Here's the latest -

Pool is no longer green nor cloudy. Don't know if it's important to try to figure out what caused it to be green/cloudy, but FWIW the green was noticeable just about as soon as I added the borax yesterday. But moving on...

I've attached this morning's results.

PM is calling for one gallon three cups of acid. I'm going to add 1/2 gallon and test later today.

Question:

How long after I add the acid should I wait to get an accurate new pH number?

Thanks.

 

[Mdragger88]

30 minutes of mixing should do it.

 

[stretchphoto]

Thanks, Dragger. That's surprising. I thought hours would be needed.

 

[AK-]

Thanks, Dragger. That's surprising. I thought hours would be needed.

It really depends on your circulation. In most cases 30min is enough, unless your pool circulation is really bad, but that would cause all sorts of other issues. I personally also check if the lingering MA smell is gone, but that is me.

 

[ajw22]

Pool is no longer green nor cloudy. Don't know if it's important to try to figure out what caused it to be green/cloudy, but FWIW the green was noticeable just about as soon as I added the borax yesterday. But moving on...

It was metal precipitation from the sudden pH rise.

When you get a chance take your pool water into a Pool Store and have it tested for metals. It is good to know what you need to deal with.