First opening sanity check

[Abnaxis]

I'm getting ready to open my pool for the first time, and was hoping to run my plan by the forum to make sure I have the right ideas.

The situation is like this: at the end of the year, there was a lot of stuff installed well after pool closing time, and as a result the water had zero chlorine in it. It's pretty green, but not as bad as when we first moved in to the house so I'm confident in my ability to SLAM it into shape.

At closing time, the pool shop thinks they fixed my chlorine generator (it was too cold to test), they repaired my automatic cover, they replaced my heat pump, and I had them blow out the lines and plug the skimmer/jets. They say I can keep the plugs they used to close.

Also, there have been a number of parts that have had freezing damage (aforementioned chlorine generator as well as the heat pump and circulation pump) and I would like to inspect my sand filter because I've never done so and am suss of it since it's literally the only thing on my pad I haven't had replaced.

From that starting point, I'm thinking I'll need the following supplies:

• New sand for filter
• Some DE so I can add a cup to the skimmer since new sand won't work as well as old sand
• Pool salt for salt cell
• Liquid chlorine for SLAM
• Muriatic acid for pH
• (I have some soda ash on my shelf for raising pH but have never needed it)
• Wrench for taking the filter apart

With the supplies in hand, i plan to:

1. Take the lid off the filter and replace the sand. Take a long, hard look at the fingers for cracks. I guess old sand goes in the trash?
2. Take off the jet plugs and skimmer plug (1 skimmer 2 jets).
3. Open all ball valves (2 supplies at pump, one return valve between pump and salt cell, one return valve for water slide on pad, one return valve for water slide on the slide)
4. Replace the winterizing drain plugs on heat pump and filter.
5. Prime the pump. It's self-priming but I have a garden house right next to it so I don't see a need to stress it by making it prime itself on dry lines.
6. Run the pump. I have a VSD I keep running 24 hrs/day because it discourages frogs and rodents from taking a dip.
7. After the water had some time to circulate, bring it up to SLAM levels of chlorine with a jug of liquid chlorine.
8. When the water isn't green any more, add some DE to help de-murk
9. Maintain SLAM levels until the water clears. Fish out all the leaves and detritus that got in there while I didn't have a cover last year in the interim (easier with the pump running because the flow will move junk on the bottom into easier-to-scoop piles)
10. Balance the rest of the chemistry--salt then TA if needed then pH. Last year ended with borderline too low salt and perfect pH/TA/CYA. I expect the pH/TA have wandered
11. Fire up the chlorine generator and see if repairs work.
12. After like 10 days of opening, enjoy!

 

[Newdude]

New sand for filter

Inspect what you got. If its been gummed up by previous owners floccs and whatnot, you'll know. If it looks and feels like sand, even algae filled green sand, it can be cleaned and will still last forever. You have to take it all out to inspect the filter guts / laterals, or you can deep clean the sand if its healthy and judge if the filter works great after that.

Some DE so I can add a cup to the skimmer since new sand won't work as well as old sand

Nonesense. It will get dirty and increase performance on its own soon enough. Plus, clean sand filters A-OK, per millions of pools, for decades.

Pool salt for salt cell

Test first to know how much you'll need. The water needs to be good and mixed for a day after the winter for all the tests.

• Liquid chlorine for SLAM
• Muriatic acid for pH
• (I have some soda ash on my shelf for raising pH but have never needed it)
• Wrench for taking the filter apart

With the supplies in hand, i plan to:

1. Take the lid off the filter and replace the sand. Take a long, hard look at the fingers for cracks. I guess old sand goes in the trash?
2. Take off the jet plugs and skimmer plug (1 skimmer 2 jets).
3. Open all ball valves (2 supplies at pump, one return valve between pump and salt cell, one return valve for water slide on pad, one return valve for water slide on the slide)

4. Replace the winterizing drain plugs on heat pump and filter.

Dont forget the 2 for the pump.

5. Prime the pump. It's self-priming but I have a garden house right next to it so I don't see a need to stress it by making it prime itself on dry lines

Fill the pump basket to the suction pipe height. 2/3 (?). The pump will woosh that water out almost instantly, but what little remains will help keep the impeller cool while it takes a few seconds to prime. If it doesnt prime in 10-15 seconds, stop, fill the basket again and retry.

6. Run the pump. I have a VSD I keep running 24 hrs/day because it discourages frogs and rodents from taking a dip.

Ran mine 24/7 and disagree. They loved the ambiance of the running water and told all their friends.

7. After the water had some time to circulate, bring it up to SLAM levels of chlorine with a jug of liquid chlorine

Test PH and bring to 7.2. SLAM per the FC/CYA Levels. After SLAM raise CYA to SWG level.

8. When the water isn't green any more, add some DE to help de-murk
9. Maintain SLAM levels until the water clears.

9. Fish out all the leaves and detritus that got in there while I didn't have a cover last year in the interim (easier with the pump running because the flow will move junk on the bottom into easier-to-scoop piles)

Leaves and muck need to go ASAP. They will chew through FC almost as fast as you can add it. Seeing it to fish it out will be aided a little by the water getting somewhat clearer, but will stall the process quickly. SLAM job #1 is FC maintaining. Job 1-A is crud removal. Job 2 is filter babysitting once everything is dead.

10. Balance the rest of the chemistry--salt then TA if needed then pH. Last year ended with borderline too low salt and perfect pH/TA/CYA. I expect the pH/TA have wandered

Add salt and CYA to SWG levels. Test both first and undershoot both. Check back for TA/PH advice at the time as it could go alot of ways over the winter.

11. Fire up the chlorine generator and see if repairs work

make sure the salt has a full day of mixing. an undissolved slug or highly concentrated couple of gallons can ruin the cell.

 

[Abnaxis]

I'm kinda thinking of just deferring looking at the filter for now. The model number has faded off it so i can't look up a manual, my channel locks got lost when I moved and I don't see a way to get the unions off it without them, and even if the sand was messed up there's not a lot I could do about it because i don't have a good way to get the sand out.

It's the thing getting in my way of opening, and I'd like to open sooner rather than later

 

[Newdude]

16 inch channel lock pliers are $20 at harbor freight. HD has a cheap one too.

Most people use a shop vac for the sand. I, personally, wouldn't have the patience to scoop out 250lbs with a measuring cup.

 

[Abnaxis]

16 inch channel lock pliers are $20 at harbor freight. HD has a cheap one too.

Most people use a shop vac for the sand. I, personally, wouldn't have the patience to scoop out 250lbs with a measuring cup.

Yeah my lack of shop vac is what did it for me and made me want to skip taking apart the filter for now. I just want to get things running already! I'll worry about researching and buying a vac/ tools later.