PVC rework for SWCG

[joshf]

I'm thinking about installing a saltwater chlorine generator and trying to plan it out with my current setup. I'm comfortable doing some PVC cutting and cementing, but need some guidance on how to work with what is already there - I'm not familiar enough with all the various PVC connection types to know what is reusable, what can be cut out, etc.

Side view for context. You can see my return coming from the filter going down to the chlorinator in the center.


This is the top view, and how I think the return line should be reworked to allow for the SWCG. The green outline represents the proposed return line. Instead of taking a right angle down, it would stay at the same vertical level and run directly below the existing intake line. It would not go down vertically until the end where it runs into the ground.


1) Does that seem like a reasonable plan?
2) The part that connects to the multi-port valve (circled in red) - how will I connect new pipe in there? It looks like the piece on the left is threaded into the valve. Do I just cut that vertical pipe, unscrew the threaded part with elbow attached, and buy a new threaded part to connect into the valve?
3) Where should I cut to connect into the pipe in the ground? It looks like there is some type of coupling right at ground level - do I cut below that?

Bonus - I would prefer to keep the tab chlorinator in the setup if it isn't too big of a deal. Was thinking it would be raised up, added in line right after the SWCG. But it really looks like that 90 degree elbow is permanently glued into it, which will make it harder to keep.


Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Which SWG?

If you go with CircuPool you can get their vertical mounting kit. Then instead of going back to the fence, go forward and just have the SWG sit vertical just before the PVC plunges into the ground.

 

[PoolStored]

1) Does that seem like a reasonable plan?
2) The part that connects to the multi-port valve (circled in red) - how will I connect new pipe in there? It looks like the piece on the left is threaded into the valve. Do I just cut that vertical pipe, unscrew the threaded part with elbow attached, and buy a new threaded part to connect into the valve?
3) Where should I cut to connect into the pipe in the ground? It looks like there is some type of coupling right at ground level - do I cut below that?

1) Not sure. There are some requirements for position of the cell and flow switch. You should read the manual on the cell you want to install. Also, you want to think about serviceability; will you be able to access flow switch and cell to replace? From Hayward:

IMPORTANT: There must be at least a 12" (25cm) straight pipe run before (upstream) the flow switch. If the switch is plumbed after the cell, the cell can by counted as the 12" (25cm) of straight pipe. To ensure proper operation, verify that the arrow on the flow switch (located on top of gray hex) points in the direction of water flow.

2) It is a threaded fitting. Cut the pipe at the fitting (narrow gap between fitting and elbow down) and screw it out Use non-hardening thread sealant compound rather than teflon tape, hand tight plus half a turn.
3) Move the leaves away from the ground and take another picture. It may be that the coupler is a mpt to slp. If that is true, you may be able to unscrew the fitting. Need to see a better picture to help. If it is not mpt to slp, you will have to use the same method to remove the SLP fittings. See next:

Finally, you may just want to remove the chlorinator. Lots of folks with SWG never use them. and may be easier to plumb what you want without it.

If you want to reuse, you will need to get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-J44-150-Socket-Saver/dp/B000HE9YS8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=13NFFFC1H1O51&keywords=pvc+socket+saver&qid=1648401644&s=hi&sprefix=pvc+socket+saver,tools,134&sr=1-3

OR one of the heat and remove methods. Here is a video with 3 other ideas. For the third in this video, you can use a hole saw that fits inside the fitting, heat that up to soften the PVC.

 

[joshf]

Which SWG?

If you go with CircuPool you can get their vertical mounting kit. Then instead of going back to the fence, go forward and just have the SWG sit vertical just before the PVC plunges into the ground.

I was looking at CircuPool, leaning toward the Core35, but also considering RJ45. I don't think the Core can be mounted on vertical pipe - and it would be pretty awkward there if it could.
My concern was (as @PoolStored mentions) making sure there was at least 6" of straight pipe before the flow switch. That might work with the RJ45, if I put the flow switch after the cell. But I'm not sure if there is enough height there, without burying the flow switch (which seems like a bad idea).

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I wouldn’t worry too much about being exact with the flow switch positioning. The recommendations by the manufacturers tend to be a little too restrictive. You can easily do a vertical pipe setup and have plenty of room.

Also, the flow switch SHOULD NEVER be your primary safety for determining if the pump is running. It should always be the case that the SWG never receives power unless the pump is energized and running. Of that means having the SWG on a separate timer with lots of margin to account for power outages, then so be it. The flow switch is a backup/last-resort safety.

 

[PoolStored]

This is what @JoyfulNoise was suggesting (RJ series):

Vertical Installation Kit for CircuPool® Saltwater Chlorinator Systems

www.discountsaltpool.com

By the way, you can roll your own for less.

Core and RJ are comparable, with minor differences. For me, I'd get the RJ45. Easier plumbing and the size will help.

 

[PoolStored]

I think this is what @JoyfulNoise is saying:

 

[MITBeta]

You should install the flow switch on the up leg. Like this:

 

[joshf]

3) Move the leaves away from the ground and take another picture. It may be that the coupler is a mpt to slp. If that is true, you may be able to unscrew the fitting. Need to see a better picture to help. If it is not mpt to slp, you will have to use the same method to remove the SLP fittings. See next:

 

[joshf]

Now you all have me thinking the vertical RJ 45 would be a lot simpler.
I think the vertical part could go straight down into the ground - no need for that vertical mounting kit/U-shape.

 

[PoolStored]

Nope, not mpt. That is SLP to SLP. I think your best approach is to cut the chlorinator off from the elbow and clean that elbow out with one of the 4 methods I posted to remove the inner from the elbow. That will leave another junction if you run into issues (i.e. cut at top of connector (between elbow and sleeve going into ground).

 

[joshf]

Just posting a follow up - went for a slight variation on the suggestions - up and over the intake pipe to give me enough vertical drop for the cell. Thanks for all the help!



Hardest part was dealing with the piece at the ground, which was below pool water level. Didn't learn about Rain or Shine/wet apply cement until after.

Not seeing any water leaks from the pipes, but I have noticed bubbles coming out of my returns. Is that gas from the chlorine generation - or is it a sign of a leak in my pipes?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Not seeing any water leaks from the pipes, but I have noticed bubbles coming out of my returns. Is that gas from the chlorine generation - or is it a sign of a leak in my pipes?

Bubbles means your SWG is producing chlorine gas. Confirm by turning off the controller and checking for bubbles.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

When the SWG activates, it produces both hydrogen gas and chlorine gas. The chlorine dissolves into the water and forms the active chlorine you measure on your test. The hydrogen gas is mostly insoluble and so it exits the returns.

 

[PoolStored]

Nice! Where is the flow switch?

 

[joshf]

Nice! Where is the flow switch?

The flow switch is the piece that looks like a coupling on the left/up side of the upside-down U where the cell is mounted. The wire comes out on the side facing the filter, so you can't see it from this angle (you can see the wire from it along the intake pipe).

 

[joshf]

Confirmed the bubbles are from the chlorine generation by powering it off. The funny thing is, I read a ton of posts on here about SWCG in preparation, and saw this same info about the bubbles posted many times. Yet as soon as I saw them, I assumed I screwed something up