So this is what I just bought today at Walmart. So does these numbers on bottle mean 3rd day of 2022? Also, can I do the sock in the skimmer basket? I have a sock over skimmer basket?I the clorox stabilizer is fine - its what i use - the sock method is where u put the stabilizer in a tube sock or skimmer sock (usually about 2# will fit), tie a knot in the end, then hang the sock in front of a return not touching the pool wall. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissolve.
Here’s the date code on the bleach.
Here’s the sock method
Wow, Am I Totally Confused
- Thread starter BuckeyeMan
- Start date
If you put it in the skimmer basket you risk damage to your equipment as relatively undiluted CYA (whichis acidic) will go straight there. It also will get caught up in the filter and take time to make it to the pool. You may be a week or more before you get a proper reading in the pool. Also if you do that don’t backwash the filter for a week because you will just wash the cya away and waste it.
The sock over a return is best approach.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,028
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes
Yes. What we discourage is pouring the stabilizer straight into the skimmer, but if you are using a sock that's fine. After about 20 - 30 min of soaking, be sure to go back out and squeeze the sock vigorously to get all the mush out.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,025
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes that’s the day- fresh stuff!
If you put the sock in the basket tie a knot in it. Loose, undissolved stabilizer can clog your pipes or filter.
It’s best to put it in there until it starts feeling squishy then move it to in front of a return & squeeze it. The idea here is that u want the dissolved cya in the bulk of the pool water immediately - not trapped in the filter media.
IMissNimoy
Gold Supporter
Correct- January 3 2022. You can use this calendar for 2022 to determine the manufacture date. For example, chlorine that will be made on July 4 2022 will have a date stamp of 22 185.
So is that the expiration date or made date? And the example makes no sense. I get the 22 meaning the year, but what does 185 got anything to do with July 4th?
July 4th is the 185th day in the year.
The date is when it was made so you can see how old it is.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,708
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It is the manufacture date. 10% chlorinating liquid is typically manufactured and shipped at a slightly higher concentration, like 11% or so. It starts to degrade the second it leaves the manufacturer. By the time it gets to a store and is on the shelf, it's roughly 10%. After two months or so it will be closer to 8%. Chlorinating liquid breaks down over time which is why you want to check dates and make sure it's not more than a few months old. After 6 months, it's no stronger than 6% laundry bleach. The old stuff you posted earlier probably had less than 1% hypochlorite left in it.
As for 185 being July 4th .... there are 365 days in a year. January 1st is the 1st day of the year. January 2nd is the second day of the year .... if you keep counting all the days up to the number 185, your finger will land on the 4th of July. The last day of a year is 365 and that is December 31st.
- May 30, 2020
- 233
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
That bottle of liquid stabilizer will work but it will take some effort to use it. Shake the heck out of the bottle then pour the milky liquid into the skimmer. You will likely find a large solid lump left in the jug. Fill the jug 3/4 with pool water and shake the heck out of it again, and again pour out the liquid. You will likely need repeat this exercise about a dozen times before you manage to dissolve the whole lump. If the test plus pool math indicates you only need part of the jug you will need to just guess how much you have added and test again in a day or two.
How long does it take for a sock with 2lbs to dissolve?I the clorox stabilizer is fine - its what i use - the sock method is where u put the stabilizer in a tube sock or skimmer sock (usually about 2# will fit), tie a knot in the end, then hang the sock in front of a return not touching the pool wall. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissolve.
Here’s the date code on the bleach.
Here’s the sock method
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- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,025
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
It depends on water temperature & usually i do a max of about 2# per sock as to not obstruct my skimmer & so its not so heavy when i hang it at the return - (u can do 2 socks if u have 2 skimmers/2 returns )
It will start feeling mushy in an hour or so & i just check back periodically through the day & squish. Cya additions require a little patience - test the following day after it dissolves.
Also of note * it is advised not to add the full amount of stabilizer because if u overshoot your target the only way to reduce cya is to replace water.
If u have 20 ppm now 2#s would add 15ppm putting u at 35-40 ppm cya which is a good place for this time of year for a manually chlorinated pool. You will probably need to increase that to around 50ppm as pool season reaches its peak & the sun takes more of a toll on fc.
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Thanks, I corrected my previous statement. I have 2lbs in the sock, not 4, so hopefully should be good.
These folks are great. Keep asking and you will recieve the best advice you can get to manage your own pool. I have asked the same questions over and over until I understood the answers to my liking. Never a harsh word, never a refusal to answer my questions. You'll be fine.. Keep connected to TFP.....
Now that it is all dissolved with the sock method. How long do I wait to check the water readings again. Thought I noticed someone said wait a couple of days.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,028
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Once the stabilizer is all dissolved and sock is empty, just consider your CYA at the new level you were shooting for. You can test in a day or two if you want just to be sure, but if you used the PoolMath APP to determine your dosage amount you should be very close.
Confused about having to still add so much. Readings today were: PH = 7.8 (PoolMath says add 23oz of 14.5% Muratic Acid)
FC = .5 (PoolMath says add 93oz of Chlorine - which I did)
CC = 0
TC = 0.5
CH = 225 (PoolMath says add 577oz or 34lbs of Calcium Chloride)
TA = 110 (PoolMath says PH will be lowered by Acid and aerate)
CYA = 40 (good)
FC = .5 (PoolMath says add 93oz of Chlorine - which I did)
CC = 0
TC = 0.5
CH = 225 (PoolMath says add 577oz or 34lbs of Calcium Chloride)
TA = 110 (PoolMath says PH will be lowered by Acid and aerate)
CYA = 40 (good)
Patience my friend. You'll get there.
Also it really helps the helpers to have your backstory of previous balancing. For example, I remember reading through your other thread but don't remember alot.of the details. (You were well covered so I didn't chime in, buy still enjoyed reading along and watching your progress) Anywho keep all the chemistry thing in one thread. GREAT. FC is consumed daily and target range is designed to get you to tomorrow without hitting minimum in between. There is no harm in adding a couple FC for insurance. Always verify 20 mins of mixing later. If the bleach is weak, or you've misjudged your gallons, you won't hit your target and could be low by tomorrow.
SUPER GREAT. This likely means you are still OK after dipping below minimum. You never want to touch minimum per the FC/CYA Levels
It sounds acceptable-y, but it is SO not acceptable. It's a one way ticket to a swamp.
Irrelevant from here on out. It's a total of the FC and CC and meaningless. You need to know rhe 8+4 part, not the 12.
Is your fill water high CH ? You may want to add a bit less to account for the eventually rise if so.
Yup.
Why ? Any 7.x is equally good. Unless you were working on lowering your TA (I'd check through your thread if it was all here.
) At 7.8 get prepared to add MA when it rises more, but there is no need to add until it does. Over time you'll get a feel for whether that's a day or 14. Or it might sit at 7.8 for good. Wait and see.
Thanks for the reply. So do don't worry about adding MA, and leave PH alone for now? And don't add the Calcium Chloride? I drained the pool because of hard calcium. Yes the fill water is hard, last time I checked it was around 375, I believe, but shouldn't be filling much from evaporation at the moment , it's been in the 33-70 degree area lately. So the PoolMath is not a strict follow the suggestion thing?Patience my friend. You'll get there.
GREAT. FC is consumed daily and target range is designed to get you to tomorrow without hitting minimum in between. There is no harm in adding a couple FC for insurance. Always verify 20 mins of mixing later. If the bleach is weak, or you've misjudged your gallons, you won't hit your target and could be low by tomorrow.
SUPER GREAT. This likely means you are still OK after dipping below minimum. You never want to touch minimum per the FC/CYA Levels
It sounds acceptable-y, but it is SO not acceptable. It's a one way ticket to a swamp.
Irrelevant from here on out. It's a total of the FC and CC and meaningless. You need to know rhe 8+4 part, not the 12.
Is your fill water high CH ? You may want to add a bit less to account for the eventually rise if so.
Yup.
Why ? Any 7.x is equally good. Unless you were working on lowering your TA (I'd check through your thread if it was all here.
At 7.8 get prepared to add MA when it rises more, but there is no need to add until it does. Over time you'll get a feel for whether that's a day or 14. Or it might sit at 7.8 for good. Wait and see.