Another issue - Florida rain and shotcrete issues

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RebeccaKH

Member
Aug 31, 2021
13
Jacksonville FL
1A024E65-FCB6-499D-B062-538867A67FCF.jpeg73AAA2AD-76C4-4445-9025-26A8C94BFC95.jpegDC245759-C08B-4B48-B643-76F45BD027B5.jpeg0AE11B81-9C7D-4942-9CD1-253E7E86ACC5.jpegWe are almost to the finish line of our pool construction. When PB to drain the pool and prep for plaster we found holes, footprints, all kinds of major problems that can't be fixed with plaster. See pictures...
PB is planning to pour concrete and bond the whole pool then have the plaster (pebble tech) done after this us smoothed and repaired. Is this concerning? Concrete repair in one day, then bond the next, and on the 3rd day apply the plaster.
Is this the right approach? I'm having a hard time finding sections that explain mistakes and what to do next.

Note: we had awful rain all summer and had our pool wall cave in on one side and PB had to rebar tie and refill that side with shotcrete. It's been problem after problem and I'm beyond disappointed.
 
If the concrete repairs are widespead I would want 7 to 14 days for the concrete to cure before plaster is put on top of it. Concrete goes through a chemical process during curing that generates heat and the plaster and the concrete may interact.

@onBalance thoughts?
 
I don’t see why they couldn’t just use extra plaster to smooth out those spots. I guess since it’s pebble based plaster it need to be more uniform coating thickness?
 
Casey said:
Are you saying they shot the walls, it was curing and it still caved in? It almost seems like something is terribly wrong with this build.
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The wall caved in during the rain, it was fixed back in August. But they didn’t know that the shot Crete hadn’t cured bc we Had so much rain you couldn’t see the bottom until December when it was prepped for plaster.
 

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Your build is at a FULL STOP until the shell is fixed. Fixed means all soft areas found and removed (take a screw driver out to the pool and "bounce" the handle all around the shell to see if you see any bits coming up/off and listen to the sound. Does it sound hallow anywhere? I would also LIGHTLY scrape the tip of the screw driver along the shell to make sure it is solid and done curing.

That area where the rebar is showing must be fixed at the same time the rest of it is being worked on.

It is YOUR pool and YOU will be left with the problem long after the PB says it is fine and drives off with you last check. He is going to push back. Just look him in the eyes and say ....................fix the shell. Say it over and over and over again. Do not discuss it or debate it....................."Fix the shell." while looking him in the eye so he knows you have said all you are going to say.
 
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RebeccaKH said:
@onBalance thank you for your help. I'm new to TFP and learning to navigate a very difficult build. How can I find out more about the concrete curing + bonding agent time requirements?
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Ask what bonding agent is being used and then lookup the manufacturers installation directions.
 
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ajw22 said:
Ask what bonding agent is being used and then lookup the manufacturers installation directions.
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And then make sure when the work resumes the bonding agent was what they said it is and that they are following the manufacturers instructions to the "T" with drying time and all. Know ahead of time the product and do your due diligence finding out everything about drying time and max time allowed to the next pour and if there would be any issues such as rain in-between.
 
As others have suggested, the shotcrete walls need to be repaired (reinforced structurally) before proceeding with bond coat and then plastering. I would hope that the PB will have that taken care of. The plaster person might share his position on the bond coat issue. Of course, he might not want to contradict the PB.
Bottom line, I think the shotcrete or gunite walls is the main concern to be addressed. The shotcrete thickness (at least 6 or 8 inches) must be applied and uniform everywhere, and the rebar steel properly covered. That is what you must make sure of.
The plastering company should be able to apply the bond coat, and then later, the plaster as typically done.
 
onBalance said:
As others have suggested, the shotcrete walls need to be repaired (reinforced structurally) before proceeding with bond coat and then plastering. I would hope that the PB will have that taken care of. The plaster person might share his position on the bond coat issue. Of course, he might not want to contradict the PB.
Bottom line, I think the shotcrete or gunite walls is the main concern to be addressed. The shotcrete thickness (at least 6 or 8 inches) must be applied and uniform everywhere, and the rebar steel properly covered. That is what you must make sure of.
The plastering company should be able to apply the bond coat, and then later, the plaster as typically done.
Click to expand...
@onBalance Thank you! The walls were repaired back in Aug/Sept. They tied the rebar to the wall and added more shotcrete to ensure 8 inch thickness in the area that it caved in. This new December issue is at the pool floor. In talking with PB today (all via text). He said they would be applying pool brite to edge and float the area, then applying the PermaKote product (6 hour cure time) followed by plaster. This would all be done in a 3 day period. I'm skeptical, but did read up on PermaKote bonding website and they said it only needs 6-12 hours for curing. I don't know much about the PoolBrite float, but I think they will be using this product to correct the uneven bottom floor. Pool Brite® - SGM, Inc.
Thank you for your help!
 
So they are planning to apply the Pool Brite plaster directly to the rough gunite.

Then put PermaKote bonding agent on the uncured Pool Brite.

And then the next day apply Pebble Tec plaster on top of everything the following day.

I don't know all the curing chemistry to say if the curing Pool Brite will be a problem at the bottom of that layer cake.
 

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