Ok. I was thinking about going and dumping bunch of chlorine in tonight but not retesting tonight. I know that I’ll have chlorine lost overnight and I won’t be able to measure it but since I’m anticipating having a loss anyway I think I’m better off hitting that target don’t you think?
I get that. I didn’t really mean that. I meant more to bring it back up to target. But I don’t want to test again this evening. I’m leaving it be.
www.troublefreepool.com
Keep in mind that Taylor says there can be a +/- 1 drop error for every ten drops. For high drop counts I try to make each drop the same by slowly squeezing a drop out and after it drops relaxing the bottle then do it again. Every once in a while I see a drop that is not like the others. It became much easier to focus on the drops when I got a SpeedStir.
Wait. So line up the top of the water or the bottom of the curve with the 10ml mark? I didn’t understand.When filling the chlorine only tube, the water should line-up with the 10 ml marking. Unlike the OTO block viewer, there shouldn't be an obvious curve at the waterline sample, but if there is, just go with the bottom point of the curve. But in the grand scheme of things, it shouldn't matter that much. Same with the power - one generous scoop of powder for a 10 ml water sample.
The fact that you noticed a 1 ppm difference in test separate tests performed at about the same time, says something is inconsistent with the testing. I'm assuming the water sample was from the same batch, so perhaps there was a counting error? It gets monotonous counting so many drops of about 40 or so.
But let's give you the benefit of the doubt and say your morning FC was 19.5. You started at 21.5, so that's still a 2 ppm drop in darkness. At this stage it really doesn't make sense. I know you're exhausted from the SLAM Process, and you close Monday. So here's what I would suggest:
With pool completely void of any toys or anything that could visibly hold algae somewhere (no niche, drain cover, etc), do a final FC increase to Mustard Algae level of 29 (based on a current CYA as the guide). Just add enough chlorine to get to 29 and call it done - no swimming while that high. It will take a couple days for that FC to fall. By Monday the FC may still be slightly elevated, but should be below SLAM level and ready for closing. Take a well deserved break and relax until next year.
If out of curiosity you want to do another Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, wait until Sunday evening/Monday morning to try it. I'd be curious to see what you get.
Fill the sample tube with pool water to the 10 ml mark. The top of the sample will be curved. This curve is called a meniscus. The bottom of the meniscus should be level with the 10 ml mark.
OK I feel like I am seeing some dark discoloration on the bottom side of my drains. I’ve been scrubbing them for days it’s really hard to reach underneath of there in the water is way too cold to get in the pool. But I feel like the discoloration is getting darker. Maybe that’s a good thing but I’m wondering if that is where the algae is. I was just getting ready to raise the chlorine to the mustard algae level that you suggested based on this do you think that’s a good idea.When filling the chlorine only tube, the water should line-up with the 10 ml marking. Unlike the OTO block viewer, there shouldn't be an obvious curve at the waterline sample, but if there is, just go with the bottom point of the curve. But in the grand scheme of things, it shouldn't matter that much. Same with the power - one generous scoop of powder for a 10 ml water sample.
The fact that you noticed a 1 ppm difference in test separate tests performed at about the same time, says something is inconsistent with the testing. I'm assuming the water sample was from the same batch, so perhaps there was a counting error? It gets monotonous counting so many drops of about 40 or so.
But let's give you the benefit of the doubt and say your morning FC was 19.5. You started at 21.5, so that's still a 2 ppm drop in darkness. At this stage it really doesn't make sense. I know you're exhausted from the SLAM Process, and you close Monday. So here's what I would suggest:
With pool completely void of any toys or anything that could visibly hold algae somewhere (no niche, drain cover, etc), do a final FC increase to Mustard Algae level of 29 (based on a current CYA as the guide). Just add enough chlorine to get to 29 and call it done - no swimming while that high. It will take a couple days for that FC to fall. By Monday the FC may still be slightly elevated, but should be below SLAM level and ready for closing. Take a well deserved break and relax until next year.
If out of curiosity you want to do another Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, wait until Sunday evening/Monday morning to try it. I'd be curious to see what you
If you are I'm just not seeing it from my end. If it brushes off it's algae. If not, we'd have to look into that later. You're at a point now where it's time to prepare for Monday's closing.
City water. It does not brush off. I’m working on the Slam of 29 and will let it be. Ty for all your help.
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