Quarantine Christmas Pool Build - ATX - Intellicenter - System Reset?

I do need some help with starting up the SWG, however. Here's a bit of history:

--PB's service company has been handling the pool for the first 30 days. His last visit was yesterday, but we are not sure when 'Pool School' will be happening.

--This past Sunday, he started up the SWG, had 'Low Salt' light on Sun-Tues

--Mon readings:
TF-100 Pro Test Kit

Low Salt error light
FC 0
ph 8.2
TA 70

--Wed morning, we *think* he added more salt and liquid chlorine
--Wed afternoon readings:
Salt light green (good range)
FC 1.5
ph 7.5
TA 70

--Thurs morning (today):
Salt light green (good range)
FC 1.5
ph 7.8
TA 70
CC=0

--Thurs afternoon (today):
Low Salt light error (red)
FC 1.0
ph 7.8
TA 70
CC = .5

Since we haven't had pool school yet, we're not sure exactly what we should do at this point. Should we go ahead and add salt at this point? Water looks beautiful and has been crystal clear. We were relying on the PB for the startup and waiting for pool school to find out exactly what we need and how to add everything but my guess is that it's not a good idea to keep running at the Low Salt level. I admit that we're feeling a bit overwhelmed and don't want to make a mistake. Any advice would be appreciated! I've updated my signature but let me know what additional info you needed. Thx!
 
For now the most important thing is to keep the FC in target range based upon your CYA in the FC/CYA Levels. Add liquid bleach per pool math pronto. You are very low and it will go south quickly.

We can walk you through the equipment but I’m not sure if you should be touching it yet. If they haven’t told you how to use it, it’s still kinda their pool at the moment. Anywho, keep the FC up and you can do that indefinitely, but you won’t need but a week or so.
 
For now the most important thing is to keep the FC in target range based upon your CYA in the FC/CYA Levels. Add liquid bleach per pool math pronto. You are very low and it will go south quickly.

We can walk you through the equipment but I’m not sure if you should be touching it yet. If they haven’t told you how to use it, it’s still kinda their pool at the moment. Anywho, keep the FC up and you can do that indefinitely, but you won’t need but a week or so.
Thanks @Newdude So this was my first time running the CYA test. I could continually see the black dot as I filled up the tube ;). So I'm guessing that means our CYA is less than 30. Using Pool Math, I see the following:
Screen Shot 2021-07-22 at 9.45.03 PM.png
If I've set it up correctly, does that look like I'm in the ballpark -- I need to add 44 oz of bleach?
 
If I've set it up correctly
Check the setup for your pool to make sure the gallons is right. Then on the right side you can toggle ‘trichlor’ to bleach for liquid chlorine (unless you were using trichlor).

If your CYA is 20 or below it’s hard to read or unreadable. Add 10 ppm until it is clearly readable. For a CYA of 30 you want to target 4-6 and not 3. The average pool consumes 2-4 ppm FC, daily. You want to lose your 2-4 (probably 4, maybe a skootch more for peak season in TX) and STILL be in target range. That will ensure you never get even close to minimum. You could use the extra insurance for now.

Once you know your pool and how it responds backward/forwards, you are welcome to skim the line as close you wish (still never approaching minimum), But for now you have lots of leeway over target, And very little / no leeway below target.

Also, once we get you dialed in you may need to raise the CYA to 40 because your UV demand is more than most of the country.
 
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Check the setup for your pool to make sure the gallons is right. Then on the right side you can toggle ‘trichlor’ to bleach for liquid chlorine (unless you were using trichlor).

If your CYA is 20 or below it’s hard to read or unreadable. Add 10 ppm until it is clearly readable. For a CYA of 30 you want to target 4-6 and not 3. The average pool consumes 2-4 ppm FC, daily. You want to lose your 2-4 (probably 4, maybe a skootch more for peak season in TX) and STILL be in target range. That will ensure you never get even close to minimum. You could use the extra insurance for now.

Once you know your pool and how it responds backward/forwards, you are welcome to skim the line as close you wish (still never approaching minimum), But for now you have lots of leeway over target, And very little / no leeway below target.

Also, once we get you dialed in you may need to raise the CYA to 40 because your UV demand is more than most of the country.
This is so helpful. Thanks, @Newdude !
 
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Waiting for PB to seal the stone. They will be buffing and cleaning the coping prior to applying sealant (MiraGard Dry Look). Is this a common practice to handle this after the fill? I'm concerned about dust/chemicals going into water. What's the recommended best practice in this situation?
 
Pump on high, skimmer socks in the basket, FC pushed up to higher levels for your CYA. That should take care of ay problems caused by them doing it now.

PB's all seem to have their own way and timing for doing anything. I think it really due to when they can get a sub out to do the work more than anything.
 
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Ok, looks like I'm going have to invest in some type of heater for the pool sooner rather than later. We went without a spa because we were so tight on impervious cover and didn't want to give up the swimming space. However, our pool is in shade most of the day and doesn't get warm enough to my liking. Today, the highest the pool got was 79 (high of 94 in Austin). It averaged 84-85 during the hottest part of the summer in ATX. Fine for my husband and son...still a little too cold for me! So I want something to heat it on a regular basis during the main swim season as well as the crazy winter weekend or holiday we might decide to warm it up. We have access to natural gas and our rates in TX are pretty reasonable.I've read a lot about the pros and cons of heater vs heat pump, but I need some real-world advice. We left room on the equipment pad to add either. Our pool is on the smaller side, roughly 30' x 20' and 10,500 gallons. We did add some extra waterway jets that give a nice massage so I'm attempting to create a poor man's spa :giggle: Can you help a girl out??

p.s. I also know that solar covers are highly recommended; however we have an irregularly shaped pool and I just don't envision being able to take a cover on/off. So much of the enjoyment we get from the pool is actually seeing it from several windows instead the home so I'd hate to cover it up.
 
Ok, looks like I'm going have to invest in some type of heater for the pool sooner rather than later. We went without a spa because we were so tight on impervious cover and didn't want to give up the swimming space. However, our pool is in shade most of the day and doesn't get warm enough to my liking. Today, the highest the pool got was 79 (high of 94 in Austin). It averaged 84-85 during the hottest part of the summer in ATX. Fine for my husband and son...still a little too cold for me! So I want something to heat it on a regular basis during the main swim season as well as the crazy winter weekend or holiday we might decide to warm it up. We have access to natural gas and our rates in TX are pretty reasonable.I've read a lot about the pros and cons of heater vs heat pump, but I need some real-world advice. We left room on the equipment pad to add either. Our pool is on the smaller side, roughly 30' x 20' and 10,500 gallons. We did add some extra waterway jets that give a nice massage so I'm attempting to create a poor man's spa :giggle: Can you help a girl out??

p.s. I also know that solar covers are highly recommended; however we have an irregularly shaped pool and I just don't envision being able to take a cover on/off. So much of the enjoyment we get from the pool is actually seeing it from several windows instead the home so I'd hate to cover it up.
Natural Gas is most efficient. Suggest a 400 BTU heater. Ensure your gas meter can put out that much gas volume.
My pool is about 50% bigger than your pool (right under 15,000 gals) and I did heat it early in the swim season for grandchildren. It took about 10 hrs to heat to near 90 deg. F. (if I remember correctly). I don't have a solar cover (or any cover) but I kept it like that for 2 days and my gas bill was not that terrible.
 
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For that size pool a medium size is fine. A raypak 266k btu will give you 1.5 degrees an hour and wont break the bank. I know you want to look at the pool and see it pretty, but a solar cover is crucial if you want a warm pool. Shape is irrelevant you just cut to the shape or even make 2 or 3 pieces out of a larger square cover. The only other thing you can do is get both a gas heater and solar panels. This lets you heat daily for free while pump is already running and spot heat with gas when you need it. I'm in NJ and have both, my kids want it 90 all the time.
 
For that size pool a medium size is fine. A raypak 266k btu will give you 1.5 degrees an hour and wont break the bank. I know you want to look at the pool and see it pretty, but a solar cover is crucial if you want a warm pool. Shape is irrelevant you just cut to the shape or even make 2 or 3 pieces out of a larger square cover. The only other thing you can do is get both a gas heater and solar panels. This lets you heat daily for free while pump is already running and spot heat with gas when you need it. I'm in NJ and have both, my kids want it 90 all the time.
Thanks @jimmythegreek I've been doing some reading and some say that the raypak tends to be quieter than pentair..any truth to this? noise would definitely be a factor in our decision. (I'm assuming we can use any brand with intellicenter)
 
You can use any heater. The raypaks are all I install. I'm a big fan of their boilers too, good products. Get a cupro nickel model, holds up to salt better. And btw I rarely hook a heater to the automation. I run it to a relay and use it as an aux turn on amd off device. Just leave heater on amd temp at the point you like amd switch it in and off remotely. Only thing you need is decent speed if your using a VS pump, somewhere around 2000 or just under is perfect
 
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How many gallons?. The only caveat is 400k heater requires a larger gas line amd 99% of the time a meter upgrade at the house. Some utilities do for free, others charge am arm amd a leg. For average 15 to 20k gallons pool a 250-300k btu will get you well over an hour a degree. I have solar as well on my personal pool and use my heater 2 or 3 times a season at best. I wouldnt ever have a pool without solar but I'm in NJ I see your in beautiful TX
 
We have a CMP Brilliant Wonders 4" LED Bubbler Assembly that serves as the bubbler in our tanning ledge. It's just the housing unit, not the LED module, but the electrical conduit was run so I might as well add the LED module. Does anyone know if a pentair microbrite will fit the CMP housing? My pool guy thinks it will, but I'm not sure, and I'm not having much luck sourcing the CMP LED module. I'd hoping to confirm before I order.
 
So, we've finally finished our deck and patio project. The patio was completed while we were out of town. We love the finished look but the rock used is different than what we discussed. The contract calls for 2-3" Mexican Blue River Rock. We wanted a larger size since it would be so close to the pool As you can see, what was used is much smaller. We'll be doing our final walk-through with the contractor on Monday so I need your advice. Will this smaller size be a problem next to the pool? (fyi, our kids our older so no concerns about throwing rocks, etc.)
IMG_9614.jpegIMG_9615.jpegIMG_9616.jpeg
 

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