Break up with the pool store

[MarlboroMan82]

My story: After 10 years of owning my pool, I decided to break up with the pool store. I found your website, lurked for awhile, and decided to cut ties with the pool store money pit. I had, and I stress had, crystal clear water at the start of the season. I took my water to be tested and after from what I have read on this forum, some bad pool store advice, ended up with a milky pool. Hence why I'm breaking up with my pool store. I was told I have....had....will have "high level of phosphates" and needed about a case of phosphate remover. When the owner at the pool store saw my water, it was the equivalent of me dropping an F bomb at a kids spelling bee contest. Bad looks and silence rang throughout the store. I think she even tried to shame me for having brought this too her. (Meanwhile I had been there 2x per week to prevent issues) I laugh now but it wasn't funny then. I tried 6 bottles of phosphate remover and 300$ later and stopped. Something wasn't working. I have seen from reading articles here that this inst as detrimental as the pool store has led me to believe. Actually, their advice has left me with a milky, cloudy pool. I've already followed the advice on this forum as much as I could for now and have seen positive results.

So far I've deep cleaned my sand, used DE to assist in filtration, scrub//brush, vacuum to waste and backwash as appropriate and ordered a TF-100 Test Kit. (Should arrive by Friday)

My pool: 24ft round above ground pool, vinyl liner. Hayward Sand filter. I attached a picture for reference, however this is an improvement since I started 3 days ago. (Couldn't see the top step clearly back then).

I don't have accurate numbers on my pool as I'm waiting for my test kit, I figured someone will ask and say .....we need numbers. I'll post when I get them.

I guess we will see how it goes....

 

[cowboycasey]

Welcome to TFP

You will get there and once your kit arrives we will all help to get you a trouble free pool that is so clear you will not believe it

The pool store pushes what the manager needs sold not what your pool needs.. Ever notice they do not clean out from the last customer or the one before that and yours... probably still testing with something from the week before...

 

[AK-]

While you wait for your test kit can you Create Your Signature? - Further Reading

If you are not doing so you should try to keep your FC around 5-6 ppm (or higher if you have it higher already) to help preventing an algae bloom on top of the current cloudiness.

 

[Newdude]

Hey Marlboro and Welcome !!! Light one up, pour yourself a stiff tasty beverage and take a breath. Most of the 275k members here were in your shoes one way or the other. We see you. And feel you. We also got you now.

Download the poolmath app for free of you haven’t already. Enter your pool info and add 5ppm a day until the kit comes. It will stop the bleeding in the meantime.

Take one of these free moments to fill out your signature with all of your info / equipment. So many times it helps us not have to ask questions about your questions. On a mobile device turn it sideways to see all of ours as an example. Well, not mine, I’m waiting on a build to start, but that’s in there instead for anybody looking.

Start reading up the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. It’s a lot of info but really easy stuff. It may take a few tries to grasp it all as it’s an overwhelming amount of knowledge. We are here to guide and fill in any gaps in the meantime.

Lastly, we will probably redefine what you consider a clear pool. Check this out and we can’t wait until you are adding your own pics

How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[glassparnut]

My story: After 10 years of owning my pool, I decided to break up with the pool store. I found your website, lurked for awhile, and decided to cut ties with the pool store money pit. I had, and I stress had, crystal clear water at the start of the season. I took my water to be tested and after from what I have read on this forum, some bad pool store advice, ended up with a milky pool. Hence why I'm breaking up with my pool store. I was told I have....had....will have "high level of phosphates" and needed about a case of phosphate remover. When the owner at the pool store saw my water, it was the equivalent of me dropping an F bomb at a kids spelling bee contest. Bad looks and silence rang throughout the store. I think she even tried to shame me for having brought this too her. (Meanwhile I had been there 2x per week to prevent issues) I laugh now but it wasn't funny then. I tried 6 bottles of phosphate remover and 300$ later and stopped. Something wasn't working. I have seen from reading articles here that this inst as detrimental as the pool store has led me to believe. Actually, their advice has left me with a milky, cloudy pool. I've already followed the advice on this forum as much as I could for now and have seen positive results.

So far I've deep cleaned my sand, used DE to assist in filtration, scrub//brush, vacuum to waste and backwash as appropriate and ordered a TF-100 Test Kit. (Should arrive by Friday)

My pool: 24ft round above ground pool, vinyl liner. Hayward Sand filter. I attached a picture for reference, however this is an improvement since I started 3 days ago. (Couldn't see the top step clearly back then).

I don't have accurate numbers on my pool as I'm waiting for my test kit, I figured someone will ask and say .....we need numbers. I'll post when I get them.

I guess we will see how it goes....

pretty much my same story!! I was able to maintain clear water with just the 2 way test kit, then , just for fun , took a sample to Leslies.....now, after following their recommendations and a couple hundred dollars later, can barely see the bottom step of my ladder!! arrrgh!

 

[MarlboroMan82]

I took the above recommendations, requests and comments and tried my best. I added the pool math app, logged in my signature details about my pool filter, etc. I looked over the pool school info and resources. Thank you in advance. Here is my next question until my test kit comes in. A few have suggested I add 5 ppm to my pool of FC, which i think from what i'm reading is "shock". Here's where some of you pros get out the forehead slap emoji. How do i figure out how to reach 5ppm? In other words, how much of the shock do I add to reach the 5ppm per day?

 

[CTFocusST]

In poolmath there is an effects of adding section. You plug in pool volume, bleach/shock/liquid chlorine percentage and quantity and it will tell you how much that raised FC

For a 13k gallon pool ~0.5gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine would give you 5ppm FC. Adjust percentage based on what you can get

 

[cowboycasey]

Great question..

You need liquid chlorine in gallon bottles.. Find it at lowes, ace, Home depot, Walmart, Atwoods. piggly wiggly.. you name it, even pool stores have it, might be more expensive so try to find it anywhere else first..

For your pool pour 1/2 gallon (12.5%) or 3/4 gallon of 10% of liquid chlorine in

 

[Newdude]

The easiest way is when the app comes up to click ‘FC’. (After setting your profile and info)

there will be several fields to enter. Current and target FC, Chlorine type, strength (on the label of the bottle ….. sodium Hyperchlorite 10%). Etc.

At the bottom it will say to add XXX ounces / gallons of bleach. The coolest thing is there is no submit button. It just calculates everytime you change a field

 

[MarlboroMan82]

Ok....here goes. I took your recommendations yesterday and added 1/2 gallon of shock and ran the filter. I got my test kit an followed the instructions to try this out. Here's what I got for levels, unless I messed something up. ( I followed the directions the kit came with).
FC = 23.5 ppm
TA = 140
CYA = 100
PH = 7.8
I looked at the CLBR but the color came back orange? Not sure what's going on there, im sure most of you know, i took a picture if that helps.
The kit had a note and said there was a national shortage of R-0003 so I couldn't test for CC?

I plugged my info into the pool calculator:
For FC it said "there were no way to lower Free Chlorine levels" - I assume that's the part where you have to drain and refill?
For TA it said my target was 70 and my value was 140 ( I think this happens with lowering pH?)
For Ph it said my target was 7.6, Im at 7.8, so it told me i need to add 14 oz of dry acid (PH decreaser I assume?)
For calcium hardness: not sure how to get that value
For CYA: my level came in at 100 (I need to lower to 45, so drain and refil?)

I've been draining, vacuuming to waste and refilling over the last 4 days and the pool is clearing up to the point I can see the bottom step now. I think i'm draining and refilling to some degree?

Not sure if I gave the right numbers but Ill start there and learn from you pros

Thanks

 

[Newdude]

Not sure if I gave the right numbers but Ill start there and learn from you pros

Plenty good enough to start with.

FC = 23.5 ppm......

I plugged my info into the pool calculator:
For FC it said "there were no way to lower Free Chlorine levels" - I assume that's the part where you have to drain and refill?

The sun, swimmers or algae will drop the FC. In good times 2-4ppm per day.

CYA = 100

You can't really read 100 or 100+. So add half mixture and half tap water and see if you get an 80 or lower. Then double it. We need to know exactly how much you need to drain. Go 2 parts tap and 1 mix and multiply times 3 if need be.

TA = 140

Does not matter at all now, and will take some time when the time comes. Lower your PH with muriatic acid (MA) and the TA will go down too. Run the jets / aerate and raise the PH and the TA stays lower. Each cycle of this will lower TA by 10.

PH = 7.8

Any 7.X is totally fine for most people. However, once you get us a good CYA level we will drain some water and then SLAM Process the rest. For the SLAM we start with a 7.2 PH and then only care about FC for the SLAM.

 

[MarlboroMan82]

For the CYA, did the 50/50 mix, added the R-0013, its between 40-50, nearest to 40 by a small margin. According to the directions it says "use the closest gradation which would be 50. Per your recommendations 40 x 2 = 80. So im assuming then my value would be 80?

 

[MarlboroMan82]

My error above, "According to the directions it says "use the closest gradation which would be 50"

I meant 40, not 50

 

[Newdude]

For the CYA, did the 50/50 mix, added the R-0013,

I may have not explained this good enough. Sorry. It needs good sunlight anyway so wait until tomorrow. 50 % tap water and 50 % pool water/ R-0013. So mix up the squirter bottle and do that 50/50 with tap water

Only fill the Google eye tube to each 10. Move on to the next 10 if you clearly see the dot with a instant glance. Stare more than 1/10 of a second and the brain plays games. Just. Bang. Yes or no.

 

[MarlboroMan82]

I went on vacation for a few days, and wanted to be around to make any necessary changes. I added the liquid chlorine that was requested on my prior testing. So I waited, and repeated my testing. On a side note, my pool is clearing to the point that I can see the bottom, its hazy. Not green, but not clear.

I repeated the testing today and these are my results:
PH = 7.5
FC =16.5ppm
CC =0.5 ppm
TC = 17 ppm

CH 325ppm
TA = 130
CYA = 80ppm ( I tried the method listed above with 50/50 and the way the directions state and got the same thing. I cant see the dot when I look at 80, can at 90, can at 100.

Now what do I do? The pool math app says my FC is too high. ("no recommended chemical to lower...") The TA part says reduce the PH to 7.0 to 7.2 ( I assume with ph reducer?. PH says use 6.9 oz of Soda Ash or 14 oz of Borax, CA states replace 9% of the pool volume and CYA says drain water.


Where do I go from here?

Thanks

 

[Newdude]

Where do I go from here

Drain or water exchange (part 3.5)

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You’ll want to lower to at least 50 CYA (roughly 40%) or 40 (half).

The rest of the #s don’t matter until you add the fill water.

You will SLAM Process whatever water is left

 

[MarlboroMan82]

Ok, so from your response: I'm looking to get this CYA to 40. (I'm at 80), through the methods listed in that drain or water exchange section. I still have a lot of white junk on the bottom, due to the phosphate remover we put in a few weeks back ( 8 bottles) so Ill vacuum to waste again if i'm going to fill up anyway. Unless there is an issue with that logic. Ill report back when I get the CYA down to around 40?

Thanks

 

[Newdude]

so Ill vacuum to waste again if i'm going to fill up anyway

You can vac to waste ALOT of it. Anything you get out is less to battle.

I was fortunate with easy draining to waste from my main drains. I brushed the floor in their direction the whole time and got tons of gunk gone with a 2 for 1 sale.

 

[MarlboroMan82]

Ok, so from your response: I'm looking to get this CYA to 40. (I'm at 80), through the methods listed in that drain or water exchange section. I still have a lot of white junk on the bottom, due to the phosphate remover we put so Ill vaccume to waste again if im going to fill up anyway. Unless there is an issue with that logic.

Thanks

 

[MarlboroMan82]

Vacuumed the pool, lots of white junk on the bottom. Ran the filter after vacuuming to waste and refilled the pool, multiple times. My CYA is down to 60, I can see the bottom of the pool floor now. I'm planning to vacuum again tomorrow with any leftover junk in the bottom and refill again. I'm hoping this will get me down to the target of 40 CYA. I thought doing refilling this way would be a better use of my water as it wastes about 2 inches of the pool each time I vacuum the pool well. Ill keep going until the CYA clears to 40, and post back.