Jandy Salt Production 00%

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ZodieLavine

Member
Jul 2, 2021
12
Maryland
Last year, I was having problems generating chlorine with my Jandy salt water system, and I cleaned the cells but still had a problem generating chlorine. I purchase a new Nature2 1400 cell but this did not fix the problem either.
I changed out the Jandy Aquapure sensor and that also did not fix the problem. The am not sure what else to check/change except the cable connectors and the actual motherboard.

RIght now, I have not put any salt in my pool and am using chlorine tablets to get buy. But, I am not getting any error codes for low salinity which seems strange. It only shows 00% with flow. When I had salt in the pool, I did have the cell reversing light on as well. The other strange thing is I am not getting any pool temperature readings on my handheld. I am not sure if this is related or just a different problem.

Any ideas of what could be the problem or what I can check?
 
#1, how are you testing both for chlorine and salinity? Accurate testing is key. How do you know you are not producing chlorine?

Salt does not leave the water unless you drain the water. Your water always has some salt in it.

How old is the system? How old is the salt cell?

Do you have Aqualink? What does it say on the screen for both salinity and percent?

Where in MD are you?

Please fill out your sigline! https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature
 
PoolGate said:
#1, how are you testing both for chlorine and salinity? Accurate testing is key. How do you know you are not producing chlorine?

Salt does not leave the water unless you drain the water. Your water always has some salt in it.

How old is the system? How old is the salt cell?

Do you have Aqualink? What does it say on the screen for both salinity and percent?

Where in MD are you?

Please fill out your sigline! https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature
Click to expand...

Last year, I always had my water tested at the local pool store to get an accurate reading and I would need to add tablets to get the chlorine levels higher.
I am not sure how old the system is because we purchased the house with the pool. The house was built in 2011 so I am guessing the pool was installed a year or more later.
I have not had the water tested by the store this year and was just using strip tests and chlorine tablets to get by so far. This past month, I was busy repairing the pump motor and replacing the backwash valve
and have not started to re-investigate this problem with the salt generation.

The salt cell is brand new as of last year and the old one was in good shape. I also replaced the AquaPure Salt Cell Flow & Salinity Sensor on the unit. I had my pda set for 70% generation and the reading is 00%. Last year, I would take the water to pool store, put in the right amount of salt, add acid, etc if needed and the result was always that the reading stayed at 00% on the main control board and the next tests the chlorine levels would drop.

This year, I know that the salt is low because I have not started to troubleshoot it again since I am stumped at what else I can replace etc. I will be trying to get the system up and running again but wanted to see if there is anything else i should check before I start spending money on more salt and chemicals won't make a difference.

I am in Frederick county, MD
 
shingles said:
How much salt do you have in the pool and what's the min needed for the generators? If salt is low, it won't generate chlorine.
Click to expand...
I did all of my troubleshooting of the problem last year and the salt levels were always ok (tested at the local pool store). However, I have not added salt this year only because the problem was not fixed before I closed the pool last year. But, I am going to try and reinvestigate the problem and see if I can fix it this year. I will be adding the correct amount of salt to my pool when I begin troubleshooting it.
 
OK. So your PDA says one thing and the LCD panel on the Aqualink (or AquaPure) says another? Have you tried increasing the percent production right at the LCD panel using the up/down percent buttons? See pic below. Can you post a similar picture? You can copy and paste right into the reply window no need to attach or upload anything.

Onto the bigger issue. Pool store testing. This site teaches owner involvement in their pool care. Pool store testing is wrong, almost all the time, on every single test. I suggest you get a quality, proper test kit like the TF-100 which uses lab grade Taylor re-agents to correctly test and help you balance your water. You have been getting advice from the pool store no doubt for as long as you have been going. We call it being "pool stored". Most people come here when this happens as they are at their wits end because the very expensive potions and lotions that the pool store sells are no longer effective because of chemical imbalance in your water.

FYI: Chlorine tablets are the root of most people's problems. They add cyanuric acid with each puck and eventually that builds to the point where chlorine is no longer effective. A partial or full drain is the solution if that is the problem.

Read here: Pool School - Trouble Free Pool

First thing is to get a proper test kit and take and post a full set of test results. We do not need or want to know any of the test results from the pool store as we do not trust them at all for any test.

The advice of Trouble-Free pool is typically not compatible with pool store advice so you'll need to make a choice as to what path you want to take. We can help you to get your pool back to crystal clear (we call it "tfp clear") and more importantly sanitary water. And it will not take very long.

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I am attaching some photos. It looks like when I am using my PDA to control the functions, the salt cell does not come on. It does show that it is on when I am in Service mode. The salinity readings are also different when I am in Program vs Service mode.

I read that someone else had a problem that their salt cell was not on in program mode and they found that the pump selected in the PDA was incorrect. I have a Jandy Plus PHP pump but the PDA is showing an Epump is selected. But, I never changed this selection so I assume this worked before unless the pda got reset?
 

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My SWG occasionally "disappears" from my PDA and other interfaces. When it does, it is still working, I just cannot see/control it. I fix this by power cycling the Aqualink. Your pictures show that your SWG is working and set to 60%. When you have a conflict, the panel is correct since it interfaces directly with the SWG. Try power-cycling everything. Can you see small bubbles coming from your returns? This is an indication that your SWG is working.
 
I will have to check to see if I see bubbles from my returns.

The 60% is in service mode. When I use the PDA, it always shows 00% on the screen (Auto mode) and the cell is not on. See attached.

The PDA is also set to 60%. I also never see the water temp on my PDA (just air) so wonder if there is some kind of communication problem between the PDA and the control board. But, I can program everything with the PDA, turn on/off the pump, heater or spa etc.
 

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ZodieLavine said:
I will have to check to see if I see bubbles from my returns.

The 60% is in service mode. When I use the PDA, it always shows 00% on the screen (Auto mode) and the cell is not on. See attached.

The PDA is also set to 60%. I also never see the water temp on my PDA (just air) so wonder if there is some kind of communication problem between the PDA and the control board. But, I can program everything with the PDA, turn on/off the pump, heater or spa etc.
Click to expand...

Ah ok now I am starting to understand your problem. Has this ever worked correctly? If your PDA works, it works, there is no 1/2 way. There are no settings for the SWG in the setup of the system. If it is connected, it will be detected and work. Do you have any other input device like a phone or OneTouch?
 

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Yes, it worked before. We have had the house since 2016 and it worked for the perfectly until late 2019.
I replaced the salt cell and the sensor and it did not fix the problem. Maybe I was looking at the wrong problem and it has to do with the PDA.
Previously, the water temperature was also shown on the PDA but it disappeared about the same time I was having the chlorine production problem.

I don't have another input device just the PDA
 
ZodieLavine said:
Yes, it worked before. We have had the house since 2016 and it worked for the perfectly until late 2019.
I replaced the salt cell and the sensor and it did not fix the problem. Maybe I was looking at the wrong problem and it has to do with the PDA.
Previously, the water temperature was also shown on the PDA but it disappeared about the same time I was having the chlorine production problem.

I don't have another input device just the PDA
Click to expand...

What about power cycling?
 
ZodieLavine said:
I could try although this is the same problem I had last year and the system was off all winter.
Click to expand...

Mine does this as well but a power-cycle fixes it. You may need to re-seat the 4 wire connection between Aqualink and the SWG. It is fairly easy takes about 10 minutes.
 

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