Pentair Intellichlor Red Flow Light

[kula]

My Pentair intellichlor flow light is red and the salt level indicators are flashing red to green. I cleaned it with acid and it did not fix it. There was just a little calcium in the cell.

I ran diagnostics and the attached pic shows the results. Any ideas what the issue/fix could be.

One thing to note. I always operate at 40% output. This year I had to bump it up to 60% output for the first time.

 

[mknauss]

salt level indicators are flashing red to green

That is the start up sequence. If the flow is not sufficient to close the switch, they will not stop.
Have you cleaned your filter lately? Any cloudy water or possible algae? I would suggest you do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[kula]

I thoroughly cleaned my filter around May 1st. Pool water is in perfect condition. No algea and I haven't noticed any pressure losses from the jets. Do you think it could be a faulty flow switch?

 

[mknauss]

Could be, but the failure of the flow switch part is rare. The thermistor in the flow switch is the normal failure. And that is not your issue. For a test, you can cut the red and black wires from the flow switch and twist them together on the cell side of the wire. Only for a test. This bypasses the flow switch. Do NOT leave it like this as the cell can explode if it is powered on with no flow through it.

 

[kula]

It looks like this is a Flow Switch issue. Diagnostics is showing error and temp over 100 degrees. I ordered a new switch. will let you know if that fixes it.

 

[kula]

I swapped out the Flow Switch at the guidance of Pentair Support. Doesn't seem to fix the issue. Now the temperature reading is accurate (before it was showing over 100 degrees). But still am getting low flow. It switched to green momentarily but is back red again.

One thing to note. My Intellichlor had a White, Red, Green, and Blue Wire. Most have a Black wire instead of Blue. I attached the Blue wire on the intellichlor to the Black wire on the new flow switch. Do you think that could be the issue?

 

[mknauss]

That takes you back to a dirty filter.

 

[kula]

Going to clean the filter now. Any idea on only having a blue wire on the Intellichlor? Does it make sense to replace that to the black wire on the switch?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Lula,

Here is a diagram... If you actually have a Blue wire, it needs to go to the Black... If the Red, Green, and White are correct, the Blue has to go to the Black.

Temp probe hack.jpg

• Jimrahbe
• Jan 9, 2021

Sounds like a dirty filter to me. I guess it could be a bad cell... As a test only, you can short the Red and Black (or Blue) coming from the cell together.. The Flow light should turn green..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[kula]

I cleaned the filter, it didn't fix the flow issue. It brought me from 15 PSI down to 11 PSI operating at 2400 RPM. Here's a pic of my blue wire. I'll try the temporary hack mentioned and report back. Appreciate the help!

Also I checked my chlorinator is from 2016, but shows that only 40% of life has been used.

 

[kula]

I tried shorting the red and black/blue. It seems to be stuck in the startup sequence alternating red green salt check and red flow light. Easy touch no longer threw any low flow error on diagnostics. Only ran it for 15 minutes. SWG is unplugged now. Any other ideas?

 

[mknauss]

Let's see what Jim says, but I believe you will need a new SWCG cell.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kula,

For now, forget about anything but the flow light on the SWCG itself..

With the Red and Black/Blue wires NOT connected the flow light should be Red...

When you connected the red and the black/blue wires, the Red low flow light should turn Green..

In your pic it appears the flow light is off, which it should never be... It should be either Green or Red.

Please tell me how that one light is working..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[kula]

Currently with the red and black wires detached the flow light is red and the salt level lights are flashing green (good) to red (low). Basically seems likes its getting stuck in the startup sequence trying to measure the salt levels. It was doing that a lot with the old switch and the new one prior to detaching the red and black.

I am using the after market Optimum Pool Technologies Switch.

One additional piece of information. Not sure if it is relevant. I recently sanded down some calcium with a carbon fiber and stainless steel brush attached to an angle grinder. It appear this introduced some metal to the pool because I just noticed some rust spots creep up. Just wanted to see if you think that calcium or rust could be impacting things?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kula,

Do not worry about the flashing salt lights at this point..

Sounds like the red flow light is on when the Red and Black/Blue wires are not connected..

I need to know if the red flow light turns green when you connect the Red and Black/Blue wires. ???


Plus.. I would like to see a pic of your equipment pad showing the Cell and valves controlling the flow through the cell.

Thanks,

Jim

 

[kula]

Hi Jim,

I connected all wires again. It took atleast 30 minutes to go through start up check. However it's working now! All lights are currently green.

Not sure if its related but I put some clorox Scale, Metal, Stain Control treatment in last night.

Any other ideas on why it's working now? Do you think it will stay green?

Here's some pics of my valves as requested

 

[kula]

Unfortunately it is no longer working. Red flow light again. It will occasionally turn green, generally is red though. I'm guessing the cell is done?

 

[Jimrahbe]

K,

It could be the cell, but I'd want to know if the red flow light turns green when you connect the Red and Black/Blue wires. ???

It is a very. very simple circuit.. Either the flow switch is bad, or the wiring connecting the flow switch is bad, or the cell is bad..

I am assuming the water flow itself is ok.

Before I replaced the cell, I'd connect the red and black/blue wires coming from the cell together.. Either the green flow light will come on or not. If the light comes on every time you connect the two wires.. Then the problem is the flow switch or the connections.. If the green flow light does not come on, then the cell has to be bad.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[kula]

Hi Jim,

Appreciate the help! I connected the red and black together. Flow stayed red and salt levels flashed the entire time. Ran it for a few hours and nothing.

Also a side note earlier I said the cell had a blue wire instead of black. Actually the new switch had a blue wire, the cell has a black wire.

I guess the cell is dead? Do you recommend replacing now or waiting till next season?

Thanks so much for everything!

- Kula

 

[Jimrahbe]

K,

Cells are pretty expensive now due to their shortage.. I have no clue if the price will come back down, but I'd wait until next season to buy a new one...

How many wires did your new Flow Switch Assy have??? Three or Four???

Thanks,

Jim R.