H250 starts and stops - IF code

Blackout08

Member
May 30, 2021
7
Toronto Canada
I recently moved into a house with a pool. Opening for the first time, I went to turn on the water heater, Hayward 250, I hear a click, then what sounds like a blower, smell gas, hear a "woomph" noise, saw a short flame, then click and repeat 3-5x before an IF error code is displayed on the screen.

I have removed the gas manifold and inspected and cleaned the jets, no clogs or spiderwebs. I'm at a loss. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
The page that mknauss references above has a link to the Service and Installation manual for the Hayward FD series (which is probably what you have if the heater is not too old). Starting on page 37 (Heating Mode) is a good description of what the heater does when it fires, followed by what it does when ignition fails. Basically, the heater will first run the blower and energize the igniter for about 20 seconds; then it opens the gas valve and starts looking for the presence of a flame. If a flame is not sensed within 4 seconds, it will close the gas valve, run the blower for about 30 seconds, then repeat the cycle. If the heater doesn't fire successfully within 3 attempts, you'll get the IF (ignition failure) code.

Observing *exactly* how the heater is behaving is key. From my own recent experience trying to diagnose intermittent ignition failures, accurately timing how long the "whoosh" is heard before it goes out is helpful in diagnosing the problem. If the flame lasts 3 to 4 seconds before going out, it likely means that the heater is not sensing that a flame is present (when in fact there is a flame). This could be a problem with the flame sensor itself (might need to be cleaned) or perhaps with bad grounding (this interferes with the flame sensing circuit). If the flame lasts less than 3 seconds or the whoosh sounds kind of weak, it means that the burner is not lighting properly. This probably means the gas supply is insufficient to support a flame, which could be caused by obstruction (common) or a faulty valve or regulator. If you have a propane heater, then it could be as simple as the tank is running low.
 
The page that mknauss references above has a link to the Service and Installation manual for the Hayward FD series (which is probably what you have if the heater is not too old). Starting on page 37 (Heating Mode) is a good description of what the heater does when it fires, followed by what it does when ignition fails. Basically, the heater will first run the blower and energize the igniter for about 20 seconds; then it opens the gas valve and starts looking for the presence of a flame. If a flame is not sensed within 4 seconds, it will close the gas valve, run the blower for about 30 seconds, then repeat the cycle. If the heater doesn't fire successfully within 3 attempts, you'll get the IF (ignition failure) code.

Observing *exactly* how the heater is behaving is key. From my own recent experience trying to diagnose intermittent ignition failures, accurately timing how long the "whoosh" is heard before it goes out is helpful in diagnosing the problem. If the flame lasts 3 to 4 seconds before going out, it likely means that the heater is not sensing that a flame is present (when in fact there is a flame). This could be a problem with the flame sensor itself (might need to be cleaned) or perhaps with bad grounding (this interferes with the flame sensing circuit). If the flame lasts less than 3 seconds or the whoosh sounds kind of weak, it means that the burner is not lighting properly. This probably means the gas supply is insufficient to support a flame, which could be caused by obstruction (common) or a faulty valve or regulator. If you have a propane heater, then it could be as simple as the tank is running low.
What you describe definitely leads me to believe it's the flame sensor. Will check out the sensor and report back. Thanks!
 
Check the gas pressure. Make sure all gas valves are fully open.

Check the flame sensor.
 
Can't get the flame sensor out. The screws and plate are corroded shut. Got 1 of the 3 screws out. Is this normal (corrosion)? I had to stop short of stripping the screws.

One other observation, everything I have read says it does the cycle three times. My heater does it 6x. Is this also normal?
 
After about three years I had some light corrosion on the flame sensor screws, but not to the point I couldn't get them out (and I live in a coastal area of Florida). You don't say how old your heater is. How does the rest of it look inside?

It takes three consecutive trials with no flame sense to go into IF. If it takes more than three attempts before it goes into IF, that means that sometimes it is sensing a flame at least briefly. If the flame seems robust for more than three seconds every time, then I would definitely lean towards a flame sensing problem. If you have a lot of corrosion inside the heater, it could be a problem with grounding. The flame sensing current is very small (micro amps), and if there is not a good solid ground between the burners and the control panel then sensing can fail or be erratic. Look for corrosion around the green ground wire that connects the interior wall of the heater to the fuse board. You should also look at the ground wire going into the heater from your breaker panel (which is accessible from the outside of the heater).
 
Can't get the flame sensor out. The screws and plate are corroded shut. Got 1 of the 3 screws out. Is this normal (corrosion)? I had to stop short of stripping the screws.

One other observation, everything I have read says it does the cycle three times. My heater does it 6x. Is this also normal?

Post pics of the inside of your heater and let us see what it looks like.

@swamprat69
 
I had that problem a few years ago. Turned out that spiders had built a nest in the electrical solenoid part of the gas valve preventing the valves from opening all the way. Took the electrical solenoid part of the gas valve off cleaned out the spiders and it fixed it. Removing the electrical part does not compromise the integrity of the valve itself so you do not have to worry about leaking gas.
 

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The flame sensor screws and plate look bad, but electrically that's not very significant. The connector to the flame sensing rod looks fairly clean. But it would be helpful to have a broader shot that shows the entire inside (so we can see how extensive the corrosion is internally), and then some pictures of the control board/fuse board including where the ground wire (green) connects to the chassis, and also a shot from the outside that shows where the electrical connections from the panel are made to the side of the heater (there is a cover, remove it to expose them).
 
Alright so here is the latest (and thank you everyone for your help). I ended up calling a tech to come out, he pulled everything apart and found that 2 burners were completed corroded. He insisted I buy a new heater ($3500 CAD) since "the parts would cost me about the same as the heater" (my Spidey sense started tingling at this point) and it would take about 6-10 weeks for parts. He also said that he wouldn't touch the heater even if i got the parts because the "installation is not to code" because my fence isn't 3 feet away and he referenced the sticker. I read the sticker, its says 6 inches on each side, 3 feet up, and 2 feet in front.

Dropping $3500 seems steep if the price of new burners is ~$100 per burner. Thoughts? I have attached the screenshots requested below. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

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You have a lot of corrosion in various areas of the heater. You can throw money into the heater trying to keep it going but eventually you will need a new heater. If you can do the work and put in a few hundred of parts once or twice a season then it may pay off.

If you need to pay service rates on top of their parts markups then you will get into four figures fast and you might as well get a new heater and be good for a few years.
 
The instructions on the heater is the Hayward recommendation. Every jurisdiction down here in the states has different codes and I suspect it is the same in Canada. I would go online and see if you can find the parts , maybe Amazon, ebay, etc. Got to be a heck of a lot cheaper doing the repairs yourself if you are handy.
 
You have a lot of corrosion in various areas of the heater. You can throw money into the heater trying to keep it going but eventually you will need a new heater. If you can do the work and put in a few hundred of parts once or twice a season then it may pay off.

If you need to pay service rates on top of their parts markups then you will get into four figures fast and you might as well get a new heater and be good for a few years.
Thanks. Yeah my plan was to buy some replacement burners and a flame sensor, connect it all back up and then have a tech reconnect the gas line again. I got a bit impatient since I can't just go to a store and pick up stuff since we are still in lockdown.

Am I on the right path?
The instructions on the heater is the Hayward recommendation. Every jurisdiction down here in the states has different codes and I suspect it is the same in Canada. I would go online and see if you can find the parts , maybe Amazon, ebay, etc. Got to be a **** of a lot cheaper doing the repairs yourself if you are handy.
Thanks. I looked up the code and its 6 inches on all sides of the appliances in Ontario Canada. Much appreciated.
 
Thanks. Yeah my plan was to buy some replacement burners and a flame sensor, connect it all back up and then have a tech reconnect the gas line again. I got a bit impatient since I can't just go to a store and pick up stuff since we are still in lockdown.

Am I on the right path?

If you want to throw some money into it then give it a try.
 
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