First time testing water using TFP kit - help

[mguzzy]

USE THE SPEEDSTIR! Yes!

For all my tests I throw the bean in right after I get my sample size correct and then let the stirrer do its thing as I add drops. It insures that you have homogeneous mixing as you are dropping!

Kids look like they are loving it!... NIeeeece!

BTW? Did you get the separate K-1766 test? If so I like to dedicate the sample tube to that test since there is a little variation in the TF100 tubes and Taylor tubes, plus it makes a sticky precipitate.. so I labeled that tube for my salt tests only.

 

[Riddler0520]

USE THE SPEEDSTIR! Yes!

For all my tests I throw the bean in right after I get my sample size correct and then let the stirrer do its thing as I add drops. It insures that you have homogeneous mixing as you are dropping!

Thank you - I wasn’t sure as the instructions that came with the TF100 - some say mix as drop, some say mix after you drop and some are silent (like CH)

I’ll cont to use the speedstir for ALL - appreciate it

 

[Riddler0520]

USE THE SPEEDSTIR! Yes!

For all my tests I throw the bean in right after I get my sample size correct and then let the stirrer do its thing as I add drops. It insures that you have homogeneous mixing as you are dropping!

Kids look like they are loving it!... NIeeeece!

BTW? Did you get the separate K-1766 test? If so I like to dedicate the sample tube to that test since there is a little variation in the TF100 tubes and Taylor tubes, plus it makes a sticky precipitate.. so I labeled that tube for my salt tests only.

I did get the separate salt test 1766 but haven’t used it yet - not sure why, guess because the aqua link gives a salt reading but I’ll try it this weekend when I do another round of full testing to see how close both are reading.

 

[mguzzy]

Here's why.. the k1766 will give you the actual reading. The Aqualink provides the salinity based on the cell and controller hardware measurements (temp, voltage, etc). The two readings will not match because they are calculated differently. But you have to go by what the cell self calculates because that is what it uses to manage its functions. But when the two values start to radically diverge it is a sign the cell may be dying. I like to get a 1766 reading when I put in a new cell and then I have a baseline to go on for future reference..

 

[Riddler0520]

Here's why.. the k1766 will give you the actual reading. The Aqualink provides the salinity based on the cell and controller hardware measurements (temp, voltage, etc). The two readings will not match because they are calculated differently. But you have to go by what the cell self calculates because that is what it uses to manage its functions. But when the two values start to radically diverge it is a sign the cell may be dying. I like to get a 1766 reading when I put in a new cell and then I have a baseline to go on for future reference..

Makes sense - I’ll do that test this weekend and have a good baseline betwee the k1766 and the cell reading

thanks for the explanation

 

[Riddler0520]

Do I really add 50lbs to increase to 450 as suggested or leave as is for now ?

Any thoughts from the experts before I start adding what’s suggested to raise CH ?
CH reading is 200

 

[Newdude]

I’m no expert, especially for calcium and plaster, but I got 53 lbs needed to bring you to the ideal 450. Have at it.

 

[Riddler0520]

I’m no expert, especially for calcium and plaster, but I got 53 lbs needed to bring you to the ideal 450. Have at it.

Yep, that’s what the pool math is stating
Sounds like a lot to add at once but necessary to bring that up to the suggested level - I’ll add this weekend

 

[Newdude]

I had 35k gallons and 53 lbs only got me 165 CH. which thank goodness was enough for vinyl. That stuff isn’t cheap.

 

[Riddler0520]

I had 35k gallons and 53 lbs only got me 165 CH. which thank goodness was enough for vinyl. That stuff isn’t cheap.

question - the calcium chloride that’s marketed for pool is about $35 for 25lb, however this stuff at HD is $15 for 25lb

is there any difference or is calcium chloride calcium chloride regardless of marketed application - this is specific to melt ice on sidewalks I guess

maybe the crystals are smaller or larger in one application or another

 

[magiteck]

question - the calcium chloride that’s marketed for pool is about $35 for 25lb, however this stuff at HD is $15 for 25lb

is there any difference or is calcium chloride calcium chloride regardless of marketed application - this is specific to melt ice on sidewalks I guess

maybe the crystals are smaller or larger in one application or another

View attachment 329590

If pure the ice melt would work — this one says it’s “with enhancers”, and the HD site says “treated with an anti-caking agent to improve spreading”. So I might be worried that would gum things up.

Can you get this one in your area? It says melts to a clear solution with no residue:

50 lbs. Winter Heat Calcium Chloride Pellets 50B-WINTER - The Home Depot

Enjoy the 50 lb. Concentrated Ice Melt, effective down to -25 degrees Fahrenheit and melts to a clear solution that leaves behind no white, powdery residue from The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

Or this one:

50 lb. Calcium Chloride Ice Melting Pellets 7892 - The Home Depot

Visit the Home Depot to buy Calcium Chloride Ice Melter 7892

www.homedepot.com

 

[magiteck]

If pure the ice melt would work — this one says it’s “with enhancers”, and the HD site says “treated with an anti-caking agent to improve spreading”. So I might be worried that would gum things up.

Can you get this one in your area? It says melts to a clear solution with no residue:

50 lbs. Winter Heat Calcium Chloride Pellets 50B-WINTER - The Home Depot

Enjoy the 50 lb. Concentrated Ice Melt, effective down to -25 degrees Fahrenheit and melts to a clear solution that leaves behind no white, powdery residue from The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

Or this one:

50 lb. Calcium Chloride Ice Melting Pellets 7892 - The Home Depot

Visit the Home Depot to buy Calcium Chloride Ice Melter 7892

www.homedepot.com

Even worse actually - the SDS for the Snow Joe stuff says it’s <25% Calcium Chloride. Mostly just salt.

 

[Riddler0520]

If pure the ice melt would work — this one says it’s “with enhancers”, and the HD site says “treated with an anti-caking agent to improve spreading”. So I might be worried that would gum things up.

Can you get this one in your area? It says melts to a clear solution with no residue:

50 lbs. Winter Heat Calcium Chloride Pellets 50B-WINTER - The Home Depot

Enjoy the 50 lb. Concentrated Ice Melt, effective down to -25 degrees Fahrenheit and melts to a clear solution that leaves behind no white, powdery residue from The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

Or this one:

50 lb. Calcium Chloride Ice Melting Pellets 7892 - The Home Depot

Visit the Home Depot to buy Calcium Chloride Ice Melter 7892

www.homedepot.com

Probably can
Haven’t looked hard at the diff varieties as I first wanted to confirm if it is acceptable and if so, what to look for as you mentioned

or I just spring the $70 for a 50”lb bucket that’s marketed for pool use and call it a day

 

[magiteck]

Probably can
Haven’t looked hard at the diff varieties as I first wanted to confirm if it is acceptable and if so, what to look for as you mentioned

or I just spring the $70 for a 50”lb bucket that’s marketed for pool use and call it a day

Just look for it to be 100% Calcium Chloride. Or of course you can take the easy route and pay the premium for the word “pool” in the name.

 

[Riddler0520]

Yep, that’s what the pool math is stating
Sounds like a lot to add at once but necessary to bring that up to the suggested level - I’ll add this weekend

I added 45lbs and now read 425 for CH so going to leave it as is. Does this number fluctuate much over time or once you have the level right is stays relatively static ?

also, why does the Pool Math app for CH suggest the ideal range is 350-550 (450 being the sweet spot), but yet on the laminated sheet that came inside the TF100 is states the range should be between 200-400. Conflicting guidance ??

 

[Newdude]

I added 45lbs and now read 425 for CH so going to leave it as is. Does this number fluctuate much over time or once you have the level right is stays relatively static ?

It will pretty much mix/equalize itself and an inch of rain or splash out will lower it by 1-2% and almost be impossible to tell you lost 6. Over many occurrences you will just at 50 (?) at a time.

the laminated card either hasn’t been updated or doesn’t factor in your plaster VS vinyl/fiberglass.

 

[Riddler0520]

It will pretty much mix/equalize itself and an inch of rain or splash out will lower it by 1-2% and almost be impossible to tell you lost 6. Over many occurrences you will just at 50 (?) at a time.

the laminated card either hasn’t been updated or doesn’t factor in your plaster VS vinyl/fiberglass.

@Newdude

weekly test results as you had asked for me to take images of CYA as I test.
First is at 100, then 90, then 80, then 70

should I raise ALK a bit or leave as is - good thing is I haven’t added acid in 4 days and it is sticking that 7.5 color (light orange)

thinking I am at 70 - Math App says to keep 5-6 FC at minimum - should I remain at 9 or should I dial down my SWG some (currently at 40% output)

thoughts ?
Next weekend is 3 days at 90 degrees so expect to have lots of swimmers over the weekend

also, for PH how can they say suggested range is 7.6 -xxxx when the color chart is 7.5 and then then 7.8
How are people reading 7.6 ? Just curious

 

[Teald024]

I’m reading that CYA at least 80ppm.
Id leave your SWG where it is for now and see where it goes. If you continue to see FC creep up then dial it back. If FC stays relatively level over a week then leave it where it is.
If your pH isn’t dropping by itself then leave alkalinity alone for now. Do you know what your fill water alkalinity is? That will help you decide if you should manually add or let the fill water do it for you.

 

[Riddler0520]

I’m reading that CYA at least 80ppm.
Id leave your SWG where it is for now and see where it goes. If you continue to see FC creep up then dial it back. If FC stays relatively level over a week then leave it where it is.
If your pH isn’t dropping by itself then leave alkalinity alone for now. Do you know what your fill water alkalinity is? That will help you decide if you should manually add or let the fill water do it for you.

Good idea - haven’t tested my fill water to see how the AKL is - I’ll do that for a baseline and retest PH in the next few days and see if it stay around 7.5

thanks for the response and yes that CYA test plays mind games and guess i’m covered either way really keeping FC around 9

 

[Newdude]

thanks for the response and yes that CYA test plays mind games and guess i’m covered either way really keeping FC around 9

It’s won’t hurt for sure !! I’ve been at this a long while and I still love the added safety net.

The CYA test gets us all but I’d call it an 80 now myself. All we can do is guess after the fact, but I’d guess that originally the CYa was just too low in the 30 range and your FC was burning off too quickly. When you added it, it took a hot minute to dissolve / fully mix and the results weren’t seen for several days. So it looked like there was an issue but it was really ok, just taking its time to correct.

Proof once AGAIN that frequent testing will spot any issues LONG before they turn into nightmares. Once it all becomes second nature you can ease up on the frequency because you’ll just know how your pool ramps up the first half of the season, and down the back half. The every other day tests will simply confirm what you are already expecting.

Until then....... test daily and get your feel on.