First water test!

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IronMan13

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2020
50
Iowa
Hello all! new pool owner here, had ours finished up last fall and didn't really get to use it before it was closed for the winter. the pool company came out about 2 weeks ago and opened it for us (after watching what they did i'll definitely be doing that myself and saving $400 next year!). Since then i haven't really done anything with the pool as the temps have still been too cold to swim (midwest area). so only cleaned it a couple of times and haven't added any chemicals or anything to it. when they opened it i was honestly surprised at how clear the water was! anyway, took a sample of water to the pool builder today to have it tested for the first time. Here are the results they gave me.

PH - 7.8
TA - 96
CH - 59
FC -0.8
TC - 5.9
CYA - 100

do those numbers look pretty decent for just opening it and having not done anything yet? Since my FC was basically non existent they sold me a 5lb container of "super soluble chlorine" and recommended a bag of BP 300, which i still had one from last year when the pool was finished. Said to put half of each of those items in and wait 2 hours and then put the rest in and test tomorrow to see where my FC is at. Just want to make sure this all sounds reasonable and they didn't oversell me on anything. thanks!!!
 
Hey there IronMan 🥇 We can't really advise you on those results because we *never* trust pool store results.

Granular and puck products generally about half chlorine and half CYA stabilizer or calcium. Most people don't need either of those "extras" in their pools and the build up of them cause a lot of problems.

Plain Liquid Chlorine contains nothing added so you're getting 100% chlorine. That's the safest way to treat a pool.

If you've done any reading here at TFP you'll have seen that we only endorse two test kits and expect homeowners to perform their own tests. No one cares more to get it "right" and do good testing than you. Quality testing not only helps you have safe sparkling water, but it also protects your pool and equipment. Pool chemistry can damage your pool and equipment as well as diminish your enjoyment of the pool water.
The two kits are either:
TF-100 (aprox $70) from www.tftestkits.net this is the better buy, and the one I use)
Taylor K-2006C ($99 from Walmart)
If you have a SWG you need to get the Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit, available also at www.tftestkits.net or online

Use this to see what recommended levels we endorse --> What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? - Trouble Free Pool

We also don't encourage folks to pay outrageous prices for pool store potions when you can buy the exact same chemical at the grocer or Lowes, Home Depot, ect. Your pool is vinyl which actually never needs calcium (that BP300 you bought). I'd suggest returning that if you can or getting a credit and using it for some liquid chlorine instead. For pools that actually need calcium (plaster pools) we know a cheaper source is certain types of ice defroster type products. Same chem, cheaper price.

Maddie :flower:
 
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thanks for the replies! I have not gotten my own water test kit yet. its something i'm looking into and will most likely end up getting. in the meantime i'll just do the best i can with what i have and hope the pool builder doesn't lead me astray ;) i'll report back once i do have a test kit with my own results from it! thanks again!
 
What are the ingredients in that "super soluble chlorine?" I expect either calcium hypochlorite or dichlor. Dichlor adds CYA, and you don't need any more of that in your water.

Do you have a heater? You don't have one listed in your signature. If no heater, with a vinyl liner you don't need CH over 50. No reason to put in that BP 300 (which is a CH increaser).

IF those test numbers are accurate, I expect your pool stinks that "pool smell." Your CCs are really high. Uncover it and let the sun burn off those CCs, and get your FC up by adding liquid chlorine.
 
CrystalRiver said:
What are the ingredients in that "super soluble chlorine?" I expect either calcium hypochlorite or dichlor. Dichlor adds CYA, and you don't need any more of that in your water.

Do you have a heater? You don't have one listed in your signature. If no heater, with a vinyl liner you don't need CH over 50. No reason to put in that BP 300 (which is a CH increaser).

IF those test numbers are accurate, I expect your pool stinks that "pool smell." Your CCs are really high. Uncover it and let the sun burn off those CCs, and get your FC up by adding liquid chlorine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply! I'll get my signature updated, we do have the pentair 300k BTU natural gas heater as well. This is the chlorine product they sold me https://www.amazon.com/BioGuard-Super-Soluble-Chlorine-Lb/dp/B006MHSH5K

I had already put in both the chlorine product listed as well as the BP 300 before i posted :/ the BP 300 "came with the pool" from when they built it last year so it wasn't something i could return anyway.

I apologize, i don't have a very good nose and i'm not sure what you mean by "pool smell"? we uncovered it yesterday and waded around in it in the evening and i didn't notice any smells.

I'll have to balance having it uncovered with it getting extra dirty, we have a contractor here building our pool shed/pavilion structure and so i've been keeping it covered to help keep the saw dust and stuff out of it :/
 
got my TF100 test kit ordered! So will report back once it gets here and i run the tests with it. won't be putting anything else in until i get that kit and see what it says! In the meantime i've got the pool cover opened burning off some FC. just using the strips that i have its showing the color on the highest end of the color gradients O_O
 
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