Pool Company finished and said here you go... Help please
- Thread starter Lokren
- Start date
You will need about 3 lbs of it. It may be cheaper to buy it in the bigger 5lb bag or at the Club stores in the 13-15 lb bags.
+1. I only buy the 13 lb bags at BJs. It lasts forever and even if it gets a little solid from moisture it busts right up back into powder. I have yet to throw any out and at $6.99 a bag, I’d laugh and buy a new bag if I did.
Alright guys. I added in about 2.75 lbs of baking soda. Here are this evenings numbers
FC= 4ppm
CC=1ppm
pH= 7? Seems like this is a big drop from last night not sure what happened.
TA= 60ppm
CYA=50ppm
FC= 4ppm
CC=1ppm
pH= 7? Seems like this is a big drop from last night not sure what happened.
TA= 60ppm
CYA=50ppm
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- May 3, 2014
- 58,350
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
With a TA of 60 your pH should come up slowly. Monitor and if it does not add another 10 ppm TA worth of baking soda.
The CC of 1 is a concern.
Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight to check.
Good job.
The CC of 1 is a concern.
Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight to check.
Good job.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,350
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Only if it is tropical storm proportions. Be sure the pump is running for at least 30 minutes prior to collecting your pool water sample for testing.
If possible turn of the UV thing. That consumes chlorine.
If possible turn of the UV thing. That consumes chlorine.
The carbonate and bicarbonate create a bunch of carbon dioxide from the acid in the water.
Some carbon dioxide gets offgassed but some gets dissolved.
Dissolving carbon dioxide into the water lowers the pH.
So first thing I could not figure out how to turn off the UV sanitizer. There nothing in my panel labeled for it and I could not find a switch on it. So I turned off the pump over night hoping that the water just not circulating through it would help. I am going to have to research more today and find out how to keep it off. The breaker in the panel is tied to the pump so I could not even do that.
On to the test. Night time sample retrieved around 930 pm. It had been dark for an hour. Morning sample was retrieved at 6 am right at first light no direct sunlight. Now I did not test this sample right away. I just stored it in my kitchen where there is no windows and tested it around 10am when I fully woke up hopefully this does not mess up the test.
Night FC: 6ppm verified this with both a 10ml and 25ml test since it was higher then earlier in the day. Both came out to 6ppm 12 drops and 30 drops
morning FC: 3.8 ppm on the 25 sample and 3ppm on the 10ml sample.
morning CC: 2 ppm on 25 sample but only 1ppm on the 10ml sample?
I am assuming this isn’t looking good.
I do not know if it affects it but it’s basically been raining pollen here for days now everything is green.
we also had an inch of rain last night and without the pump being on idk how well it mixed.
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Do you have pictures of everything?
It's better to run the pump with the UV on than leave the pump off.
Here is pictures of everything. Its all cover in pollen and dirt. Luckily someone coming to wash my house next week.
You probably need an electrician to disconnect the UV.
I wouldn't worry about it too much until you can get it disconnected.
I wouldn't worry about it too much until you can get it disconnected.
Maintain the fc at about 10 to 20% of the CYA level for a few days and continue to watch the CC and OCLT.
Sometimes, the best thing to do is the least amount of additions possible until you can begin to see a distinct pattern.
Nothing jumps out as urgent at this point.
Get plenty of circulation and brush at least once per day.
Sometimes, the best thing to do is the least amount of additions possible until you can begin to see a distinct pattern.
Nothing jumps out as urgent at this point.
Get plenty of circulation and brush at least once per day.
My UV is also connected directly to my pump-however it is flow controlled. So at lower pump speeds the UV system turns off. Mine has an indicator light when it on so it’s very easy to tell when the flow stops tripping the flow sensor. It’s happened to be around 28% pump speed.
Perhaps just lower pump speed? That’s what I did when Marty helped me last year with my OCLT.
Perhaps just lower pump speed? That’s what I did when Marty helped me last year with my OCLT.
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If the lower speed still skims well for you and activates the SWG, it’s an excellent short term hack until you permanently disable the UV.
I don’t have a SWG.If the lower speed still skims well for you and activates the SWG, it’s an excellent short term hack until you permanently disable the UV.
Sweet. I thought I saw it in your signature. Stupid sideways phone !!!!
So then all you need is skimming and it could work great just below the activation of the UV. Give it a try and see how the water clarity responds.My calcium chloride to raise my CH came in today. Should I wait to handle that until after the slam or is it fine to do at the same time?