What are the order of tests and chemicals to add after opening winterized pool?

[Rockstead]

I’ve read through the guides but I can’t find something specific to this.

1. I opened my winterized pool, was I supposed to open the filter on backwash and then rinse on the first run of the pump? I didn’t see it in the opening guide.

2. I’m bypassing my heater plumbing until my pool is balanced, assuming that is the right thing to do, unless there can be Algae in there and she be included in the Slam?

3. My winterized pool usually opens with a cya of about 20 based on previous years. I use granular CYA to bring it to a level of 70, should I be doing my SLAM based on the CYA I just added, or based on the 20 that was there when the pool opened? As it usually takes a few days for the granulars to dissolve as I hang it over a return or in my skimmer (and I won’t backwash for a week so I don’t lose any).

4. At the same time as the SLAM, I’ll add the required salt while unplugging my SWG so that I don’t break it (like I’ve done in the past.

5. At which point should I be trying to balance my Alkalinity and PH? After my overnight test or everything at once?

6. When I pass my overnight test, I typically then open the water valves to my heater and turn on my heater and plug in my SWG.

Can someone validate if this is the right order to do things, I couldn’t find specifics like this in the opening guide.

 

[ajw22]

I’ve read through the guides but I can’t find something specific to this.

1. I opened my winterized pool, was I supposed to open the filter on backwash and then rinse on the first run of the pump? I didn’t see it in the opening guide.

Does not matter.

2. I’m bypassing my heater plumbing until my pool is balanced, assuming that is the right thing to do, unless there can be Algae in there and she be included in the Slam?

That's ok. Reason to bypass your heater is due to possible low pH. Algae will not damage your heater.

3. My winterized pool usually opens with a cya of about 20 based on previous years. I use granular CYA to bring it to a level of 70, should I be doing my SLAM based on the CYA I just added, or based on the 20 that was there when the pool opened? As it usually takes a few days for the granulars to dissolve as I hang it over a return or in my skimmer (and I won’t backwash for a week so I don’t lose any).

I hope you did not add CYA to 70 yet. Doing the SLAM Process with CYA 30 will use a lot less chlorine. SLAM at CYA 30 needs a FC of 12; SLAM at CYA 70 needs a FC of 28.

You should set your CYA at 30 for the SLAM Process and then after the SLAM is complete raise your CYA to its normal 70.

4. At the same time as the SLAM, I’ll add the required salt while unplugging my SWG so that I don’t break it (like I’ve done in the past.

Wait to add the salt until the SLAM is complete. You don't know how much water you will lsoe during the SLAM that will just dump the salt out.

5. At which point should I be trying to balance my Alkalinity and PH? After my overnight test or everything at once?

After the SLAM Process is complete.

6. When I pass my overnight test, I typically then open the water valves to my heater and turn on my heater and plug in my SWG.

And add your salt.

Can someone validate if this is the right order to do things, I couldn’t find specifics like this in the opening guide.

What opening guide are you looking at?

What does your pool look like? What are you doing the SLAM Process?

 

[Newdude]

Hey Rocksteady !!

1). run the pump and mix the water well for a few hours.

2) run a test.

3). Add chlorine to be in range. No harm in being on the higher side of in range

4). Bring Ph to 7.2 per pool math pre-emptively in case of SLAM

5). Perform OCLT

6). SLAM with lower CYA level if OCLT failed or water is cloudy. Run heater for a minute to clear the pipes of residual water during SLAM

7) raise CYA to regular level for SWG.

8). Start to tackle TA and CH if needed.

9) turn on heater and SWG when ready.

 

[Rockstead]

Does not matter.



That's ok. Reason to bypass your heater is due to possible low pH. Algae will not damage your heater.



I hope you did not add CYA to 70 yet. Doing the SLAM Process with CYA 30 will use a lot less chlorine. SLAM at CYA 30 needs a FC of 12; SLAM at CYA 70 needs a FC of 28.

You should set your CYA at 30 for the SLAM Process and then after the SLAM is complete raise your CYA to its normal 70.



Wait to add the salt until the SLAM is complete. You don't know how much water you will lsoe during the SLAM that will just dump the salt out.



After the SLAM Process is complete.



And add your salt.



What opening guide are you looking at?

What does your pool look like? What are you doing the SLAM Process?

Great reply, I will save it all for future reference, much appreciated.

On older Hayward SWG (Maybe new ones too?), if you add salt while the SWG is on, it will blow a component on your Automation Motherboard (Aqua Logic P2 in my case) so now I’m super careful to let the salt mix for a few hours before I turn it on, I unplug my SWG as a precaution when adding salt.

Im Slamming because I’m opening up my pool after it has been closed for the winter, I’m in Canada. It actually opened blue but it definitely needs a shock.

I was following this guide in Pool School that didn’t detail it quite enough, unless there is a different guide to read.

Opening your pool- An easy to follow guide

Opening your pool can be stressful. This Pool Start Up guide teaches everything from start-up chemicals, covers, and more for your start up.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Newdude]

Im Slamming because I’m opening up my pool after it has been closed for the winter, I’m in Canada. It actually opened blue but it definitely needs a shock

If the water is clear and you pass the OCLT there is no need whatsoever.

 

[Rockstead]

If the water is clear and you pass the OCLT there is no need whatsoever.

It’s been closed for 5 months, there’s no chlorine in it, definitely needs a SLAM

I close it later and I open it early so it usually opens nice and clear but zero chlorine.

 

[Newdude]

It’s been closed for 5 months, there’s no chlorine in it, definitely needs a SLAM

It very well might, But the order is *test* (OCLT) and then *do*. Not the other way around. TFP is designed for you to know where you are so you know what to do (and just as importantly what you are adding WILL do), so that you consistently end up where you want to be.

 

[Rockstead]

Hey Rocksteady !!

1). run the pump and mix the water well for a few hours.

2) run a test.

3). Add chlorine to be in range. No harm in being on the higher side of in range

4). Bring Ph to 7.2 per pool math pre-emptively in case of SLAM

5). Perform OCLT

6). SLAM with lower CYA level if OCLT failed or water is cloudy. Run heater for a minute to clear the pipes of residual water during SLAM

7) raise CYA to regular level for SWG.

8). Start to tackle TA and CH if needed.

9) turn on heater and SWG when ready.

I read the SLAM guide and it doesn’t mention adjusting PH first, I don’t see that in the opening guide either. Previous poster mentioned to do it after I passed the overnight test, along with the Alkalinity.

Was that specified anywhere, I would love to see a guide that went from A-Z after winter opening but I haven’t found it here, unless I missed it.

 

[Newdude]

If you need to SLAM, the PH test is invalid once the FC is over 10 and reads high regardless of the actual #. So pre SLAM you start at the low end of the range to allow yourself the time it takes to SLAM with no major PH changes expected during that time.

Chances are upon opening you’ll be low anyway and PH is one of the easy ones to adjust. You can either adjust to anywhere in range and then adjust again if you need to SLAM, or target the SLAM PH just in case you go there. (2 birds with one adjustment)

 

[Rockstead]

If you need to SLAM, the PH test is invalid once the FC is over 10 and reads high regardless of the actual #. So pre SLAM you start at the low end of the range to allow yourself the time it takes to SLAM with no major PH changes expected during that time.

Chances are upon opening you’ll be low anyway and PH is one of the easy ones to adjust. You can either adjust to anywhere in range and then adjust again if you need to SLAM, or target the SLAM PH just in case you go there. (2 birds with one adjustment)

Typically after slamming, how long after adding chlorine would you test your water to confirm your chlorine numbers? Like I know I should be checking the next morning but prior to that I wanted to validate them.

 

[Newdude]

I read the SLAM guide and it doesn’t mention adjusting PH first

In the pre-requisite to SLAM instructions it’s near the bottom

Typically after slamming, how long after adding chlorine would you test your water to confirm your chlorine numbers

During SLAM you want to check 30 min later to verify you reached your target. Degraded bleach or incorrect pool volume might not hit the target.

After SLAM (completing the OCLT) you’ll check daily until you know your pool backwards and forwards. It’s best for new folks to check twice daily at first as they learn. Then daily. Then eventually you’ll just know what your pool consumes and can add a day here and there without testing.

 

[Rockstead]

In the pre-requisite to SLAM instructions it’s near the bottom View attachment 320771

During SLAM you want to check 30 min later to verify you reached your target. Degraded bleach or incorrect pool volume might not hit the target.

After SLAM (completing the OCLT) you’ll check daily until you know your pool backwards and forwards. It’s best for new folks to check twice daily at first as they learn. Then daily. Then eventually you’ll just know what your pool consumes and can add a day here and there without testing.

Thank you for that! and for showing me where it specified the PH first.

 

[Newdude]

Thank you for that! and for showing me where it specified the PH first

It’s a lot to read, and even more to take in. Lol. Ask anything at anytime. We LOVE to only have to fix *one* problem instead of the 2 or 3 new ones that pop up from being unsure. We got you.