Extremely High CC 9.8, Yes 9.8

Aug 30, 2018
6
Kingwood/TX
This is what I posted Last year (Oct/Nov 2020 I think). Had copper stains and used PinchAPenney Stop Stains to try to remove. After 11 days ph below 6.5 (maybe lower) got algae bloom. Stains reduced by 50-60%. Was advised to raise TA and PH and then shock pool. Raised TA to 100, PH to 7.2. Then was advised to add 5lbs shock. Water turned from cloudy green to mildly cloudy blue. Advised to add 1 lb shock and water turned clear blue. TA at 100, PH at 7.4, FC at 1.5, CC at 20+, CYA at 50. Calcium hardness at 395 and TDS at 800. I am using Taylor K-2006 Kit. Will CC go down by itself over time? Can I use breakpoint chlorination (raise to 10 times CC of 20+ or over 200ppm). How much shock in a 18,000 gal pool? Thanks JohnM

Was advised CC would go down by itself which it has, from 20+ to 9.8.

Current readings 2/22/21:
PH 7.4
TA 79
FC 0.2
CC 9.8
Calcium Hardness 314
CYA 89
TDS 800
18,000 Gal
Water Temp 55*
Previous stains Completely Gone
Water has been and is clear.
Was advised to add 10# baking soda and 1.5 Pt acid.
Then add 24 lbs of 78% potassium peroxymonosulfate to get rid of CC.
What do you advise?
Thanks, John M
 
John, I suspect your question will raise a few eyebrows here at TFP, mainly because you note having the K-2006 test kit, but seem to be posting pool store results (dated 22 Feb) and their advice. In TFP, you simply can't use both (pool store and TFP). If your CC level is indeed that high, I would have to assume some non-TFP chemicals may have been added to cause that spike since liquid chlorine or regular bleach won't do that. So very odd.

Before we go any further and make too many assumptions, I would ask you to post a full set of test results with your Taylor K-2006 as of today. In addition, tell us what chemicals you have used this winter in your water. The answers to these two questions should give us a good path forward. Thanks.
 
Yes, I went to pool store for 2/22/21 readings, mainly because they also checked copper and iron. Copper was 0.0and iron 0.2.
Used my Taylor K-2006 for 2/26/21 readings today:
FC 0.6
CC 9.5
pH 7.5
TA 100
Calcium H 375
CYA 80
Water Temp 58*
Yes, used sulfamic acid to get rid of copper. After seeing 0.0 copper reading above, maybe I didn't have copper after all. Before treating for copper, I tried ascorbic acid hoping it was iron stains. I shocked pool to early Feb 2021 to about 30ppm. Have been using Suncoast Ultimate Metal Control as sequestrant and Suncoast All In One Algaecide.
I filled Chlorine Feeder with 3 inch tabs in October and thought I had turned completely of but after 3 months (ending January 2021) it was empty so there must have been some water flow.
What do you think of potassium peroxymonosulfate to get rid of CC. Is draining pool only option? If draining is only solution, seems I would have to do a complete drain? I live in Houston area and it will cost about $500 to drain and fill.
If Sulfamic acid is showing as CC. can I somehow adjust readings to compensate?
Thanks, John M
 
I'll tag @JamesW for his chemistry experience, but we know sulfates can really complicate chemistry, cause problems to plaster, and damage SWGs. First question might be to confirm where did the suspected copper come from? The heater perhaps? Copper doesn't typically come from ground water, so ID'ing the copper source is critical. If you're on a well, you probably have iron witch can be treated in other methods. Until James chimes-in, I would encourage you to look at the Sulfamic acid portions in the links below. Thanks for posting the K-2006 results. Of course your FC is way too low, so you should balance the FC to the current CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels to avoidn algae. Stand by for more assistance.


 
Just wait it out and treat CC as FC as advised in your previous thread.


FC Testing After Using Sulfamic Acid

FC + CC = TC. So when you do the tests, add your FC and CC together and just consider that total number as your FC until the elevated CC goes away.

Sulfamic acid is similar to cyanuric acid in that chlorine will combine with it and reach an equilibrium. The bond is actually stronger than with cyanuric acid. That's why the chlorine registers as CC.

Periodically do an OCLT to detect any excessive organic buildup. As long as you're passing the OCLT, your total chlorine level should be adequate.

It has taken members months of SLAM level FC to clear CCs after using Jack's Magic #2 Copper and Scale Stuff.

Or, you can drain and refill if you can verify that the pool will not float or crack when drained.
 
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You can do a regular SLAM if you feel like you want to get rid of the CC faster, but that risks having the stains come back.

I would wait it out.

This type of CC should not be a problem like other types of CC.
 
As of today, readings are as follows:
FC 0
CC 0.4
PH 7.6
TA 90
CAL 400
CYA 90
Water Temp 67
As you can see, cc has dropped to where I'm thinking I should shock pool but to what level? 10 times 0.4 (4.0)or do I need to go higher do to high CYA? What level do you suggest? Currently have no visible algae or stains.
Any other suggestions?
You all have been a tremendous help to me. Thanks.
John M
 

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After seeing your response to my post, I did the following.
Added 20 0z 73% cal hypo in effort to increase free chlorine
Added 16 oz of 31 Baume muriatic acid.
Tested 2 hours later.
FC 0.0, observed under artificial light so reading could be a little off.
CC 2.0
ph 7.5
ta 90
This morning readings are as follows:
FC 0.4
CC 2.5
ph 7.6
ta 100
CA 400
cya 90
I had added borax to pool last year. Test shows 100 plus but I am suspect of test strip reading.
Does any of this make sense? Is high CYA messing this up?
What should I do?
Thanks, John M
 
Periodically do an OCLT to detect any excessive organic buildup. As long as you're passing the OCLT, your total chlorine level should be adequate

Ignore the CC. Just maintain the TC at the correct level for the CYA.
Maintain the total chlorine as if it was fc.

Follow the fc/cya chart or use a minimum of 7.5% of the cya.

Maintain the total chlorine at 7 minimum.
 
Note that draining presents a risk for floating the pool.

Check with a local professional expert to make sure that it's safe to drain before considering draining and refilling.
 
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