New plaster pool day 35

skipnyamaha

New member
Dec 15, 2019
3
Redding, Ca
Good afternoon everyone and thank you for having an amazing forum to ask questions and get answers. Formalities aside I have a 26K gl inground pebble sheen pool. I a SWG but due to low water temperatures I am obviously using liquid chlorine. I have a TF-100 test kit and my complimentary 30 day service in no longer. So this is my first official time being on my own to take care of my water. I have read through pool school and have done my best to test the water as recommended with test kit.

FC 1
PH - 7.9
CH - 225

CYA is where I run into the problem. I followed the instructing attempting to get the necessary results but was not able to get the black dot to disappear. I tried the test twice to no avail. I know this will get easier as I do it more but just need some advice to get going. It could also be the complimentary service was subpar and they left me hanging in hopes of needing them.

Please help out a newbie,

skipnyamaha
 
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If the black dot remains visible in a full vial, then your CYA is less than 30 ppm. You'll want to start adding enough to get you into the minimum range for a SWG pool according to the FC/CYA Levels. I would start with enough to increase CYA by 30 ppm so you don't overshoot your target (60 to 80 ppm). Then test again and add enough to get to your target. Use the "sock method" (ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry) so you don't stain your new plaster. When you get CYA in, raise your FC to the target range as shown in chart. You can pick up some CYA at Home Depot, Lowes or maybe Wal-Mart. Make sure it's 100% cyanuric acid.

Best of luck!
 
If the black dot remains visible in a full vial, then your CYA is less than 30 ppm. You'll want to start adding enough to get you into the minimum range for a SWG pool according to the FC/CYA Levels. I would start with enough to increase CYA by 30 ppm so you don't overshoot your target (60 to 80 ppm). Then test again and add enough to get to your target. Use the "sock method" (ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry) so you don't stain your new plaster. When you get CYA in, raise your FC to the target range as shown in chart. You can pick up some CYA at Home Depot, Lowes or maybe Wal-Mart. Make sure it's 100% cyanuric acid.

Best of luck!
Thanks Rancho, I will head to HD tomorrow and give this a shot. Thanks for the help.
 
I thought it was better to keep CYA around 40ppm during winter months? Then increase it to 60-70 in spring summer?
I can run my SWG year 'round here. I'd imagine the OP's climate is similar to mine. You can wait 'til spring to top it off if you want.
 
If your not gonna start up the SWG, shoot for 40 ppm for now. In the meantime, pick up the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit. I'm not sure what the manufacturer's recommendation is for Pebble Sheen.
 
Thanks Rancho, I will head to HD tomorrow and give this a shot. Thanks for the help.
Once you start to dissolve the granular stabilizer (CYA), it may take 24 hrs to completely circulate in pool volume so take readings occasionally to see where it is. Definitely take it slow so you do not overshoot. If you are confident with the 26,000 gal you have stated on your pool then use Pool Math to provide you the amount of Stabilizer needed to reach 30ppm.
 
I was also told to not run any salt until the pool has cured for 4-6 months to prevent damage to the pebble sheen.
Welcome to the forum.
That is far longer period for waiting to add salt than any plaster start up process we have heard of. Most are wait 30 days.
Can you point out the reference that told you that you needed to wait that long?
 

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We have a new pool with a pebblecrete finish (cement and pebble mix) which I assume is much the same. We added the salt at about day 30. Couldn’t wait to get that SWCG fired up.
 
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