Hello! Right after our gunite crew left today, I went out and immediately noticed that the tanning ledge looked too shallow. It was supposed to be 15" and is 12". The project manager came right out and said this was a case of first impression for him. He is calling his manager. What are my remedies at this point? We were very specific about what depth of water we wanted and even built an extra step to achieve it (unsightly, but necessary). Thanks for your insights!
Gunite mistake on shelf/ledge depth - what are my remedies?
- Thread starter blondechica
- Start date
Did you measure when the rebar was put in? Do you have any pics of the rebar?
IF the rebar is set at the correct height then they can just jack hammer out the gunite and redo it.
If the rebar was set too high then they have to jack hammer out the gunite AND cut the rebar to bring it down to size. They will then have to "tie" the new rebar into the main rebar.
It CAN be fixed! They will push back and may try to say it can't be fixed but that is them not wanting to take the hit on the fix.
Get EVERYTHING in writing moving forward. Write to them about the problem (email is best but text will work. That way you can make sure there is no question on who said what.
IF the rebar is set at the correct height then they can just jack hammer out the gunite and redo it.
If the rebar was set too high then they have to jack hammer out the gunite AND cut the rebar to bring it down to size. They will then have to "tie" the new rebar into the main rebar.
It CAN be fixed! They will push back and may try to say it can't be fixed but that is them not wanting to take the hit on the fix.
Get EVERYTHING in writing moving forward. Write to them about the problem (email is best but text will work. That way you can make sure there is no question on who said what.
Thank you for all your advice!!! I do have some pictures. I wish I had thought to measure the rebar.
Should I be concerned about jackhammering causing structural instability in the pool?
Thanks again!
Suzanne
Did you take pics of the different parts of the build? If so share the rebar ones here and we might be able to see what is what on the size.
Jackhammering will not damage the structural part of the pool. The gunite is several inches thick with rebar in the middle of it. The only damage should be to where they are putting the jack hammer.
I would NOT allow them to do any more work until this is fixed! I just thought of that. "But look how much we have already done. You are so close to having a finished pool." kind of thing.
Jackhammering will not damage the structural part of the pool. The gunite is several inches thick with rebar in the middle of it. The only damage should be to where they are putting the jack hammer.
I went back and read this again. What does he mean by this?
I would NOT allow them to do any more work until this is fixed! I just thought of that. "But look how much we have already done. You are so close to having a finished pool." kind of thing.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
What Kim said.. and especially hold up any payments in your schedule until this is rectified. 3 inches is not a big deal on a 7 foot deepend.. but its a huge deal on a 15" baja shelf. That's 1/5th of the depth, just sayin'
I believe he meant that it was the first time they had screwed up a tanning ledge depth on his watch.
And another.
Attachments
Darn! Hard to tell how deep the steel is on the shelf.
So here is where YOU decide what you can live with. They might offer some money off if you leave it like it is. Now is the time to think about it. The plaster can add about 1" to the height (not really sure about this one. It might be less).
I also want to talk about depths. Is the 15" WATER depth? See some people measure depth as from floor to the middle of the skimmer face and waterline tile BUT some measure it from floor to the bottom of the coping. If they measure to the bottom of the coping the water depth is less by about 3". Time to check on that as well.
If you want 15" water depth then push for it. It CAN be fixed! It will be a pain (money, labor, materials) for THEM but it is THEIR mistake so they should fix it if that is what you want. Do NOT allow them to guilt trip you into accepting it unless you can live with it.
So here is where YOU decide what you can live with. They might offer some money off if you leave it like it is. Now is the time to think about it. The plaster can add about 1" to the height (not really sure about this one. It might be less).
I also want to talk about depths. Is the 15" WATER depth? See some people measure depth as from floor to the middle of the skimmer face and waterline tile BUT some measure it from floor to the bottom of the coping. If they measure to the bottom of the coping the water depth is less by about 3". Time to check on that as well.
If you want 15" water depth then push for it. It CAN be fixed! It will be a pain (money, labor, materials) for THEM but it is THEIR mistake so they should fix it if that is what you want. Do NOT allow them to guilt trip you into accepting it unless you can live with it.
poolnoobgrandma
Gold Supporter
- Sep 15, 2018
- 938
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
If they don't fix this it will bother you for the life of the pool.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Can you post some pics of the current self? something with the angle to see its relation to that now useless step and ruler showing the distance to the top of the bond beam? Then we can really visualize your predicament.
I appreciate this. You are absolutely right.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,044
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
My shelf depth is around 13 1/2". It's the perfect depth.
Is that from the bottom of the shelf to the top of the coping? Thanks!
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,044
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
No it's about 17" from the coping. In the below pic my water level was about 1/2" low it usually sits at the grout line between the top and bottom tiles.
TexasRain
Well-known member
- May 19, 2020
- 358
- Pool Size
- 13868
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I think that is what mine will end up being after pebble. Mine also measures 17" to the top of the gunite, which should be the top of the tile.
TampaKathy
Gold Supporter
Yes, and I would love the group's advice. They said they could remove one inch of gunite through "chipping." And we could keep the water line one inch higher. They said this would get us 11" of water. They are asking how we feel about this. My main issue is that I wanted the water to be waist deep when sitting. I think this gets us close, but 12" would be better. Thoughts? Thank you!
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,044
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
In other words they are going to chip the gunite down as close to the rebar as they can hopefully not exposing it and call that a fix. I don't like that at all. I am not an expert though. Also I don't think that is deep enough. Did you measure/figure what the actual water depth will be based on where the water line will be?