Pool start up levels - new IG

OK to store MA and Liq Cl inside the same deck box
Never. If Acid and chlorine mix you get chlorine gas. Which is deadly.

What should I adjust it to tomorrow? And how long should I run it for?
As it appears you do not have a SWCG, you need to run the pump long enough and at a sufficient rpm to mix your chemicals you add and skim the surface. For your area, I would suggest 6-8 hours and an rpm of 1200. See if that keeps the surface skimmed sufficiently.
 
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TA is now 50.
Ph still 8.2 - add a little over a cup of MA just now.

Great. Your TA came up as expected.

also, off topic but is it OK to store MA and Liq Cl inside the same deck box? the jugs of Liq Cl is inside a crate and MA I put in a plastic container with a lid over it.

No. If chlorine and acid is mixed it can create deadly gas. They should never be stored near each other where a leak can mix them.

In addition don't store acid indoors near any metal. The fumes from muriatic acid can corrode metals even when the container is sealed.

Also my Pb told me to run my pump 24hrs for 3 days. He set it high to 2700 rpm. I have a VSP. Today is tech the third day. What should I adjust it to tomorrow? And how long should I run it for?

I would continue running your pump 24 hours a day at 1200-1500 rpm. It will use minimal electricity and continue filtering any plaster dust.

Are you brushing the pool once or twice a day?
 
Great. Your TA came up as expected.



No. If chlorine and acid is mixed it can create deadly gas. They should never be stored near each other where a leak can mix them.

In addition don't store acid indoors near any metal. The fumes from muriatic acid can corrode metals even when the container is sealed.

I would continue running your pump 24 hours a day at 1200-1500 rpm. It will use minimal electricity and continue filtering any plaster dust.

Are you brushing the pool once or twice a day?
Twice a day
 
PB suggested 1800 rpm 7 hrs a day. Still quite a bit of plaster dust or dirt not sure what it is. It’s getting a bit better though. I assume once I can start to vacuum it will help get them from the bottom. Should I run the pump all at once or split the time to morning and night?
 
Plaster dust has to be kicked up into the water with brushing. If it is still visible, the pool should be brushed a couple times per day.

No reason to split the run time. RPM is up to you. I doubt there is much science behind 1800 rpm.
 
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PB suggested 1800 rpm 7 hrs a day. Still quite a bit of plaster dust or dirt not sure what it is. It’s getting a bit better though. I assume once I can start to vacuum it will help get them from the bottom. Should I run the pump all at once or split the time to morning and night?

Do not used any wheeled cleaners until after the first 28 days.

When you turn off your pump dirt and dust will settle onto your new pool surface. Then you have to brush it off again. Keeping the water circulating keeps stuff suspended in the water for the filter to capture it and not have it deposited on the pool surface. With a VS pump running at a slow RPM there is little cost and lots of benefit to running the pump 24/7.
 
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OK might be a dumb question and hope it makes sense but the dosage that pool math recommends is that per day or do I have to keep adding the same dose until I get to the target FC for that day.

Test the chemical, enter the test result intoPoolMath, set your target and PoolMath gives you the amount of chemicals to add. Repeat after every test and chemical adjustment.

Do a reasonableness test on what is recommended. Don’t blindly follow robot recommendations. If you fat finger some test results PoolMath will not tell you it makes no sense.

If in doubt check here BEFORE you add a chemical. It is much easier to fix problems before chemicals are put in the water.
 
Do not used any wheeled cleaners until after the first 28 days.

When you turn off your pump dirt and dust will settle onto your new pool surface. Then you have to brush it off again. Keeping the water circulating keeps stuff suspended in the water for the filter to capture it and not have it deposited on the pool surface. With a VS pump running at a slow RPM there is little cost and lots of benefit to running the pump 24/7.
Do I run it all day on low until there’s no more plaster dust and then decrease the time?
 
Do I run it all day on low until there’s no more plaster dust and then decrease the time?

You can do that. You run your pump as necessary to chlorinate your pool, heat it, and skim it. After that it is up to you. Some of us like keeping the pump running the pump 24/7 at low speed at a cost of maybe $1/day.
 
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Day 4 after plaster:
my readimugs
FC - 4 - same since this am. Increased from 1.5 yesterday. Probably because I did 2 doses yesterday. Did not add any chlorine today.

TA- 50 at 7 am 60 at 3pm

PH - 8.2 - added a cup of MA this morning and checked again this afternoon still the same.
Should I add another dose?

CH - 75

PB came by today tested water with his Taylor kit. Said FC was a little high and ideal is between 1.5 - 2 when I told him what my readings were when I tested it. He checked the water with his kit and FC wat at ideal range 1.5. -2. He told me not to add MA since it takes 24 hrs to work. Not sure how true this is.

Based on my readings I need to start adding CH- 41 lbs according to pool math. How do I apply this?
And continue to try to bring PH down with MA. Should I add another dose tonight or wait tomorrow like what PB said? I already added a dose this morning .
 
If you retest your pH 30-60 minutes after adding acid you will find it came down. The 24 hours your PB said is nonsense. Anytime you test the pH and it is in the 8s add acid and lower it into the 7s. It may be a daily chore for a while.

41lbs of calcium chloride will raise your CH by 400 ppm. That is more then you need. What is your target?

Adding 13lbs of calcium chloride will raise your CH by 128 ppm to around 200 ppm.
 
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If you retest your pH 30-60 minutes after adding acid you will find it came down. The 24 hours your PB said is nonsense. Anytime you test the pH and it is in the 8s add acid and lower it into the 7s. It may be a daily chore for a while.

41lbs of calcium chloride will raise your CH by 400 ppm. That is more then you need. What is your target?

Adding 13lbs of calcium chloride will raise your CH by 128 ppm to around 200 ppm.
You are correct with the CH. I was going by what poolmath recommended at 450 but new plaster guidelines says to slowly bring up CH to 200. Thanks for catching that! Do I apply CH using sock method? Is my FC ok for now it or should I maintain it at 3ppm? PB said he highly recommends hiring a pool cleaner to protect our investment because maintaining it can be tricky. He doesn’t know about pool school and this site. Lol so thank you!
 
Follow the FC/CYA Levels. Keep FC in target value range.

... after you have completed your 28 day startup. Follow your startup guide for the first 28 days.

You are on day 4. 3 ppm of FC is fine for CYA 30. I would not sweat being 1 ppm over at 4. You can’t get chemicals that precisely.

You are doing fine.
 
10pm - CYA 50. Pool math target FC is now 6. Should I try to bring my FC up? Currently at 4. Start up guide says to maintain it between 1.5-3. Ph at 7.8 - read an article on here saying to keep ph at the higher end in the winter. Is this true for new plaster? CSI -.86- something to worry about?
 
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Follow your startup guide. FC of 3 and pH of 7.8 is fine. New plaster water chemistry is different while the plaster is curing. That is why you have a startup guide.

Log all of your test results in PoolMath or post them here in the format below so we see the complete picture...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
Water Temp
CSI
 
Follow your startup guide. FC of 3 and pH of 7.8 is fine. New plaster water chemistry is different while the plaster is curing. That is why you have a startup guide.

Log all of your test results in PoolMath or post them here in the format below so we see the complete picture...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
Water Temp
CSI
PB gave no start up guide so I’m following the guide you provided, thank you. Current levels:


8:30pm

CH 100

Ph 7.8

TA 50

FC 2.5

CC - 0

CSI -.83

I don’t have the upgraded version of poolmath so I don’t think it stores my results only the chemicals.
I added a total of 20 oz of MA and 54 oz of chlorine today (I don’t pre dilute)

Do I need to anything else like baking soda to increase my TA or wil it still continue to rise on its own? (I’m on 5th day of plaster)
Haven’t added any CH increaser.

How do I calculate borates and salt to increase accuracy of csi level?
 
Your TA of 50 is fine. Your chemistry is fine for now. Your CSI does not matter now. Your CSI will rise when you add CH.

You should raise your CH to 200 as discussed above.

Borates and salt are of no interest right now. Leave them blank.
 

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