Salt level confusion with Aquarite T-Cell-15

LA2240

0
Bronze Supporter
Dec 1, 2012
21
This summer, my 16K gallon pool began consuming salt at a higher than usual rate (+30-50%). Added a bag of salt each time the panel reading got to 2800 or less.

I now have concerns about the reliability of the system salt reading. The cell is older (>10 years), but it usually runs clean. I check every 4-6 months, and most often there is no build up of scale. When I checked recently, there was modest build up which I cleaned with an 4:1 acid bath.

As of today, the dynamic (instantaneous) salt reading on the Aquarite display is 1800 ppm (the static display shows 2800, so not getting a low salt alert yet). To check the Aquarite, I purchased the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit. The Taylor kit has two reagents, one expiring 9/21, the other 6/22. The Taylor kit took 34 drops which computes to a salt level of 6800 ppm! So Aquarite says 1800 and Taylor says 6800. Frankly I think the truth is in the middle because the Aquarite does generate Cl and my Cl levels in the pool are on target (measured 5.0 Cl today using Taylor K-2006).

My questions:
- any idea why such a large discrepancy between Aquarite and Taylor RE: salt level?
- I suspect the T-cell may have finished its useful life (my records indicate last replaced in 2008, which seems amazing), hence the unusual readings from the Aquarite panel. Agree the cell is suspect? Or could this be an issue with the main panel PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE, last replaced in 2017)? Or save my money and continue to monitor the situation?
 
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.
 
>>> Display 2900 Temp 54 V28.1 C3.32 10P -1900 AL-0 r1.59 t-15

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
>>> Display 2900 Temp 54 V32.1 C0.00 10P -0 AL-0 r1.59 t-15

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
>>> Display 2900 Temp 54 V26.6 C4.73 10P -3000 AL-0 r1.59 t-15 [V and C are dynamic until the cell electronics settle]

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
>>> Display 2900 Temp 54 V27.1 C3.85 10P -2200 AL-0 r1.59 t-15 [V and C are dynamic until the cell electronics settle]

Report all readings. SEE ABOVE

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
>>> CELL: *1E0707- BOX: SN 01010369

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
>>> If I trust Aquarite display ~2800. If I trust Taylor K-1766 test kit ~6800

What is the T-cell size?
>>> T-CELL-15

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?
>>> Yes, see t-15 above
 
As soon as you said your pool was "consuming" salt, I knew one of two things had happened - either you had a leak (losing and replacing water) or the reading is bad and you've been dumping salt in unnecessarily. Then you confirmed it with the Taylor reading.

I trust the Taylor reading, because it matches the scenario described - you've been adding a lot more salt than usual, so it makes sense that the salt level is high.

How does the water taste? At that level, everybody in the pool should be able to taste the salt. At lower levels, some individuals can, some can't.
 
That was my guess. Which data leads you to that conclusion?
The cell is 13 years old, which is twice as long as they usually last.

The salinity is significantly different in opposite polarities.

The K-1766 is probably accurate.

The performance percentage of the cell in each polarity is the instant salinity divided by the actual salinity.

The performance percentage in both polarities is below 75%, which is where I consider the cell to be failed.
 
Be aware you need to get your salinity level down to 3500 ppm or less prior to installing a new SWCG cell. That will mean a 50% drain and refill.
 

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Maybe wait until the spring to buy the new cell. It's better not to use it now until the water temperature is back above 60.

The warranty period begins from time of purchase. So, you don't want to waste the warranty during the winter while the cell is not going to be used

However, since you have the checkbook out...

 
Maybe wait until the spring to buy the new cell. It's better not to use it now until the water temperature is back above 60.

The warranty period begins from time of purchase. So, you don't want to waste the warranty during the winter while the cell is not going to be used

However, since you have the checkbook out...

DONE ... this site is well worth supporting. Has saved me tons of $$$ and time.
 
The cell is 13 years old, which is twice as long as they usually last.

The salinity is significantly different in opposite polarities.

The K-1766 is probably accurate.

The performance percentage of the cell in each polarity is the instant salinity divided by the actual salinity.

The performance percentage in both polarities is below 75%, which is where I consider the cell to be failed.
How do you determine "instant salinity" and "actual salinity"?
 
The first number is the average salinity, the number with the - sign is the instant salinity, the K-1766 result is the actual salinity.

When the cell is new, the performance percentage should be close to 100%.
 
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