Reviving out of service pool: FG & deck Refresh

[dianedebuda]

Think they'd have a color match for "dirty, weathered white"? Used white gel coat when the pool was resurfaced 12 years ago, but aside from color change from age, there's a quite a bit of dirt and some of swamp discolor that may fade after some time & chlorine exposure. So there's going to be a color mismatch no matter what they do.

But thanks for the thought.

 

[DorsalSpine]

Well depending on the shape and size you could try to be artistic about the patch. Run a stripe down both sides. I seem to remember you have two cracks to fill. Add horizontal lines as depth markers, that kind of thing. All fun aside, I'm really impressed with your dedication to getting your pool back in service.

 

[dianedebuda]

Repair crew arrived a little after 2:00 and the job was completed by 6:30 - and that included about an hour to drain some water from pool. They took the water level down to about the same level as I had when I changed out the ball valves to Jandys. I'll start to refill water this morning.

Took almost 60 pics; here's a few:

Cracks in clean water


Cleaning out crack for putty

Sanded area for fiberglass mat & filling in crack with putty

Applying fiberglass mat

Roll on resin

Repeat mat + resin 2x more (3x total). Roll with a texture type roller (to eliminate bubbles?). Dry.

Sand smooth.

Roll on finish

Patch completed.

Well depending on the shape and size you could try to be artistic about the patch. Run a stripe down both sides. I seem to remember you have two cracks to fill. Add horizontal lines as depth markers, that kind of thing.

I asked if they could put Jolly Rogers on top, but no such luck.

 

[dianedebuda]

Once I get water level back up, I'll need to test & balance the water. Based on my previous tests,
6/1 CH=150, TA=140
9/6 CH=150, TA=210, I would expect that I'll need to raise the CH to 200 min and lower the TA to 120 max.

Am really suspicious of CH value. We have hard water around here and live over limestone caves... Plumbing calcium deposits are common.

PoolMath says I need to add calcium chloride to raise CH; lower pH and aerate to lower TA. I'll be wanting to increase CYA and add salt to fire up the SWG. What can be done concurrently and the order for the others? Figure that pH & FC/CC will be the last ones to do.

 

[Brett S]

Congrats on the repair. I’m glad you were able to find someone to do the work.

On a side note, I can’t imagine working from my knees and leaning over into pools to repair them all day. That’s gotta be terrible for the back.

 

[dianedebuda]

I can’t imagine working from my knees and leaning over into pools to repair them all day. That’s gotta be terrible for the back.

That's why I knew there'd be NO way that I could attempt a DIY.

------------------

Would really like to get my pool light installed, but the cold-to-me water is a barrier. Wonder if I could justify the expense of a heated, deep sea diving suit?

 

[mguzzy]

Nice job on the crack repair! Imagine doing that when the pool was more swampish,, yeech!

CH recommendations are really more for plaster pools. I don't think you need to worry about it in a FG pool.

 

[dianedebuda]

Pool is refilled & have begun water balancing for SWG.
10:00 pH=8.4
add 1 gal MA
12:00 pH=7.4

12:00 TA=260
TFP recommends 60-80 TA for SWG; Pentair recommends 80-120, so 80 seems like a good target
Plan to further reduce pH to 7.2 and run air jets in pool to reduce TA.

12:00 CYA=20
TFP recommends 70-80 for CYA; Pentair recommends 30-50. Quite a difference. Any idea why?

12:00 CH=250
Ignoring CH for the time being.

12:00 salt barely measurable
Add salt later.

----------------------

Ran the Warrier SE robot for the first time.
Pre-robot:

post robot:

robot filter:

Robot did an OK job, but not as good as I expected. Watched entire time because cord of uninstalled pool light is vulnerable. Definitely floor areas that were not covered. Robot crawled up shallow end step a couple of times. Water line cleaning was sparse. No problem with my main. Removing robot was easier than I expected. I'd used the T-handle of a curb key to lower it into the water and reversed the process to extract it.

 

[mguzzy]

Pool is refilled & have begun water balancing for SWG.
10:00 pH=8.4
add 1 gal MA
12:00 pH=7.4

12:00 TA=260
TFP recommends 60-80 TA for SWG; Pentair recommends 80-120, so 80 seems like a good target
Plan to further reduce pH to 7.2 and run air jets in pool to reduce TA.

12:00 CYA=20
TFP recommends 70-80 for CYA; Pentair recommends 30-50. Quite a difference. Any idea why?

12:00 CH=250
Ignoring CH for the time being.

12:00 salt barely measurable
Add salt later.

Add Salt now.. It makes no difference when you do it. Just don't run the SWG until you have mixed the new salty solution.
Get yer CYA up, and follow the FC/CYA Levels Remember the SWG manual is going to follow the same pool standards the stores do, for the most part. So I would not expect the SWG manual to align with the TFP protocol. If you need to know why the TFP CYA is higher I would have to send you to an article in the Deep End.

I would worry about your TA last. That will continue to self adjust as your pH stabilizes. But if you need to get it down use the aeration method. My TA hovers around 110... and my pH hovers around 7.8.. which is entirely fine for a SWG pool.

You can add CYA and salt at the same time... just curious how much swim season do you have left in your neck of the woods. All that comes to a screeching halt if you have to close your pool. BTW its looking GREAT!

Edit, I just saw you are in Tx.. so you are probably year round.

 

[dianedebuda]

I would not expect the SWG manual to align with the TFP protocol. If you need to know why the TFP CYA is higher I would have to send you to an article in the Deep End.

Took a side trip to the Deep End just for the heck of it. Had no idea there was so much controversy about the relationship of FC and CYA. Explains a lot. So my conclusion is that TFP is cell phone; Pentair is crank phone. Hello, operator? Can you connect me to...

 

[mguzzy]

You got it! Little did you know that TFP is on the bleeding edge of the pool sanitation standards.. and you just thought we were a cool place to hang out.

So yeah, as far as we are concerned you want to follow OUR FC/CYA Levels.. not theirs... we know ours works and why. That's the whole point of this website!

 

[dianedebuda]

So yeah, as far as we are concerned you want to follow OUR FC/CYA Levels.. not theirs... we know ours works and why. That's the whole point of this website!

Never seriously considered anything else, but was curious about the difference. Following TFP has gotten me to this point successfully so far...

 

[dianedebuda]

Trying to figure how I want to do the CYA. Used liquid stabilizer when pool was swamp; have 2 gal which would only get me half way to 70 ppm. What is shelf life of the liquid? Thinking I might want to use dry stuff now (or 1 gal liquid + dry stuff) and tweak CYA with liquid later.

Any preference between Clorox or (HD) Pool Time dry stabilizers?

See sock method is usually focused around skimmer, but most chems are added near returns. My returns have stronger circulation than the skimmer...

CYA posts vary on how long to wait for testing after dry is dissolved - some say 24 hr, others a week. What's the current standard? IIRC, was 2 hour wait for testing with liquid.

Same test wait period question for salt, but think the 24 hr wait is what's used for that currently.

 

[DorsalSpine]

The sock method works as just as well in front of the returns as it does the skimmer. I just hang mine in front of a return when I need to add some. Usually you should wait 24 hours. Squeeze the sock occasionally if you want to speed up the process. I don't have a brand preference. Using the liquid to tweak your CYA sounds like a plan.

 

[mguzzy]

The only difference is liquid CYA is more expensive.. at least when I have priced it. I would use up the liquid and switch to Dry. I buy my dry CYA in bulk and it will usually last 2+ seasons. Its one of the few pool chems that stores well.

Most people have more vigorous flow through the skimmer so they throw the sock in there....I have no patience for letting the sock sit there and waggle in front of the return, I squeeze until it all mushes out. That takes about 20 minutes.

 

[dianedebuda]

The only difference is liquid CYA is more expensive.. at least when I have priced it. I would use up the liquid and switch to Dry. I buy my dry CYA in bulk and it will usually last 2+ seasons. Its one of the few pool chems that stores well.

Yes, the liquid is more expensive. I opted for that pre-SLAM to avoid my snakes. Wait period for retest is why I'm thinking of using the liquid last. Wouldn't think I'd be adding much stabilizer at a time after getting to my target level, so would be easier with liquid ... and don't have to put my hand in cold water to help the dry dissolve. All of this is based on my assumption that liquid stabilizer has a decent shelf life.

Most people have more vigorous flow through the skimmer so they throw the sock in there....I have no patience for letting the sock sit there and waggle in front of the return, I squeeze until it all mushes out. That takes about 20 minutes.

I have a floating weir and maybe that makes a little difference. I could, of course, change the balance to favor the skimmer rather than the 50/50 split I have with the main now, but I think this gives me a better mix while I'm fussing the chems.

 

[mguzzy]

I have a floating weir and maybe that makes a little difference. I could, of course, change the balance to favor the skimmer rather than the 50/50 split I have with the main now, but I think this gives me a better mix while I'm fussing the chems.

yeah.. do that.. it will only be for the time it takes to get the CYA to dissolve. Then you can go back to 50/50

 

[kimkats]

As far as I know liquids CYA lasts forever. It is not like chlorine/bleach.

 

[jimmythegreek]

Just be careful with socks in the skimmers. Many pool owners get them sucked thru the system and clog or make it to the pump basket. I always hang in pantyhose leg on broomhandle in front of a return. If it's a rush I use liquid

 

[ajw22]

My method of adding dry stabilizer...

Adding CYA Equipment

• ajw22
• Jan 29, 2019

Sock filled with CYA ready to hang

• ajw22
• Jan 29, 2019

CYA dangling in sock in front of return

• ajw22
• Jan 29, 2019