Aqualogic Losing Time?

[kevinjm]

Hi all,

I am having the same problem. My clock is losing about 6 hours a day. Typically, for some reason, the time loss seems to happen more overnight and not during the day.

I replaced the C3 - Supercap, X2 - Date / Time 32.768 kHz, and U2 - Real Time Clock using parts I obtained from Digikey. I actually had a friend do the soldering since my skills are not the greatest but I am fairly confident he did it correctly (checked polarity and ensured all went on the same way they came off). When I replaced the board, the clock seems to be frozen and won't move forward (the colon between the hour and minute does flash each second but the clock never moves forward). Everything else seems to work. I can program the clock time and it will set to whatever I program it, and everything comes on as it should if I set the time to one where the filter, heater, and lights should be on. I know at least one person said they needed to wait 24 hours before the clock started working again. It has only been about 12 hours so far so maybe I just need to wait some more.

I also noticed that the bypass capacitor (C14) seems corroded. Does anyone know what the part number would be for this component? I may replace that capacitor as well if my clock doesn't start working. Any other advice would be appreciated.

 

[bigboy2]

Hey everyone.. I have the same issue and not sure if I should change the motherboard ($500) or the GLX-PL ($200). Can yall plz post a pic with arrows on what need be changed exactly? I am noobie but I can do it .. where is the C3 yall talk about on the board? Thanks

 

[Dominic Johnson]

Hi all,

I am having the same problem. My clock is losing about 6 hours a day. Typically, for some reason, the time loss seems to happen more overnight and not during the day.

I replaced the C3 - Supercap, X2 - Date / Time 32.768 kHz, and U2 - Real Time Clock using parts I obtained from Digikey. I actually had a friend do the soldering since my skills are not the greatest but I am fairly confident he did it correctly (checked polarity and ensured all went on the same way they came off). When I replaced the board, the clock seems to be frozen and won't move forward (the colon between the hour and minute does flash each second but the clock never moves forward). Everything else seems to work. I can program the clock time and it will set to whatever I program it, and everything comes on as it should if I set the time to one where the filter, heater, and lights should be on. I know at least one person said they needed to wait 24 hours before the clock started working again. It has only been about 12 hours so far so maybe I just need to wait some more.

I also noticed that the bypass capacitor (C14) seems corroded. Does anyone know what the part number would be for this component? I may replace that capacitor as well if my clock doesn't start working. Any other advice would be appreciated.

I have the same issue. The clock is stuck at whatever time I set. Did you get the clock working again? If so, how? I think I may have mounted something backwards. The capacitor has a clearly marked direction but the two surface mounted components are not so obvious in their polarity. The U2 - Real Time Clock seems to be completely symmetric while the X2 - Date / Time 32.768 kHz has a circular indentation on the top at one end and a rectangular indentation at the other. I the X2 is mounted with the circle to the right.

 

[bigboy2]

ok I got the capacitor and I hope replacing it works.. how do I find which side on the board is positive? I think on the capacitor the little triangle is aiming toward negative side. what about the board?
Can someone attach a pic?

 

[bigboy2]

omg miracle.... just changed the cap.. looks like it worked... for the signs just match the triangle on the cap with the one on the board..welp..update: so if I let the filter run the clock works but if I turn it off, after a few hours it lags again..what's the solution?

 

[sanjoe]

By luck I found the problem for clock losing time. On the board it has a capacitor on the left top corner, it's like a double battery in wrap. You can buy on Ebay for about $3 and 5 mins to replace it. After replacement you run for 1 hr it will charge the battery and walahh, your pool back in business. Good luck.

Looking for this part. Any more info on eBay search ?

 

[gordonsback9]

Looking for this part. Any more info on eBay search ?

I would like the part name, number, cost and where to buy it please. I will have bought my 4th motherboard if I have to buy another one. I’m losing time every day, several times per day. Thank you

 

[Manchester Mick]

By luck I found the problem for clock losing time. On the board it has a capacitor on the left top corner, it's like a double battery in wrap. You can buy on Ebay for about $3 and 5 mins to replace it. After replacement you run for 1 hr it will charge the battery and walahh, your pool back in business. Good luck.

Do you have a pic of the board capacitor

 

[Louisee]

By luck I found the problem for clock losing time. On the board it has a capacitor on the left top corner, it's like a double battery in wrap. You can buy on Ebay for about $3 and 5 mins to replace it. After replacement you run for 1 hr it will charge the battery and walahh, your pool back in business. Good luck.

Sir ours is doing the same thing ….could you show a picture of where the battery is (we think we found it but can’t figure out how to get it out). Also is it soldered in or is it a plug and play?

 

[DesJones]

Been three days with not a single minute of time lost. Now to see how many days, weeks, or months the fix works. I may help my pool guy fix some since he replaces these once in a while for time loss. I will buy a heat gun and some more conformal coating spray for water proofing the repair. Note: This is not an easy soldering job if you are not used to surface mount parts, don't try it. I may also buy a few 0.1uF 0805 (maybe 0603) capacitors because the bypass cap (C14) on the real time clock was a bit corroded too.

Sorry for the 3 topics in the same msg but here goes...
TIME: I had the same problem which I repaired by changing the cap. Be careful because you do not want to tackle this yourself if you have no soldering experience. Anytime you lift the pad from the main board you run the risk of destroying the circuit and therefore some functionality of your $2,800 main board.
RECTIFIER: Another weak point is the control board main rectifier. In my case, after about 8yrs I found rectifier itself good but the solder connections were cold, which means there is a resistance building in the connection. After resoldering the legs, it's been working for 9yrs since.
T-CELL-15: Tired of buying new salt/chlorine generators every 5yrs so I'm trying to deceive the main controls by cutting into the cell cable & adding a pot set for about 13k to the red & blue wires returning to the plug end. There are 6 wires, red, blue, 2 black & 2 white. Each black wire powers 1/2 of the cell plates and the white wires are common. Red & blue goto a thermistor inside the cell housing which is the fail point. Once the thermistor starts to degrade, your controller will show the cell temp might be 180 degrees or higher when you know it's about 70. There is a tolerance that must be met for the controller to start the voltage to make chlorine. As Reading up on it, I found this "safety" thermistor (MOV) is there to avoid damage to main board when plates are completely calcified & closed, or an inline heater goes above the upper tolerance. My heater has good working hi-temp interlocks (already changed one out) & I habitually clean my cell yearly so I feel comfortable trying this on my failed T-cell15. I hope this trick will work as my parts from Amazon due for delivery today. 21May2024 [email protected]