Chemistry today assistance

Patsy B

Active member
Jul 12, 2020
40
Orlando/FL
Pool Size
10000
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello,
I haven't performed the TF Kit chemistry tests in a while so I thought I would do it today.

As mentioned in previous posts I realize the CYA is high and am adding liquid chlorine to try to keep it in the 10+ppm range and scrubbing at the algae, as I search for someone who knows what they are doing to drain down and add water (I have some leads). I am not a spring chicken, it's hard enough to bend down to get sample water for the tests :) - so I'd rather just get someone else to do it. I also understand that this is best done when temps are cooler - so here in Florida that would be December onward.

There is staining and rough spots where algae does collect but I clean it off and staining remains. Also the pool brushes and basket have this similar staining. Pics attached - hopefully they are clear enough in the pool. Also you will see how dirty the deck is. This is because there is dirt and pinestraw in the outer areas of the house which is tracked in by us, the dogs. I really think this is also the culprit. I'm going to have sod put in once the landlord puts in the french drain (yes also a drainage issue) and also put astro turf in the back area so the pinestraw is eliminated. I just want to make sure that there isn't something I can do with the chemistry to combat this until this is all done....and yes that is the neighbors wall to their house right next to the cage and yes it is a bear trying to scrub that side without getting in the pool.


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I have not been adding anything but liquid chlorine.

Anyways this is what I have:
FC = 13
CC = 1

PH using daily kit 7.6ish
CHLORINE w daily kit is bright yellow

Calcium : 312ppm

Alkalinity: The blue turned to bright pink 140 and bright pink at 150ppm (same color that you get with chlorine drop test when adding the R-0870). I stopped at this point. Now that I think about it if I kept going with the drops would it turn red or do they mean pink?

CYA = 130

Your input would be appreciated.
 

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Chemicals curious about the ph and high cya high chlorine relationship. I was told while cya is high and chlorine is high that the ph will always be off. Should I be adding the borax or leave it.
 
OK....chemistry. The TA test and all other tests are ended when the last drop you add makes NO FURTHER color change. Subtract that last drop and that is your result. The biggest issue I see is your CYA is too high. I would suggest you drain 50% of your pool volume and then refill hoping to get a CYA result down around 50......it might take a 60% drain)
 
OK....chemistry. The TA test and all other tests are ended when the last drop you add makes NO FURTHER color change. Subtract that last drop and that is your result. The biggest issue I see is your CYA is too high. I would suggest you drain 50% of your pool volume and then refill hoping to get a CYA result down around 50......it might take a 60% drain)
Thank you yes I know about the CYA and draining. What about the alkalinity I believe this is too high - test kit card says it should be 100 - 120?

Again thanks for all the feedback.
 
Why do you want to add borax? With an elevated TA, pH can be raised with some aeration, if necessary.

TA is the parameter than is the least important. As long as the pH is stable and there is no scaling, TA can be what it is. Your CYA level and maintaining FC are the post important items right now.
 

Never mind... I just did another search to locate where I had asked if a CYA 140 (mine is now around 120 to 130 because of rain and emptying) plus high chlorine 10 to 14 is safe to swim, and this thread came up which answers my question.

 
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You can safely swim in a pool as long as the FC is above the minimum and at or below SLAM level based on your CYA. You must also be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end of the pool.
 
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Hello,

So last weekend removed all plants that were dropping leaves, cleaned deck of pine straw and the cage (it's dropping like crazy lately due to higher winds then normal), scrubbed pool, vacuumed, added chlorine and everything was great. I think removing the dirty plants, pine straw etc. has helped. I have been maintaining chlorine between 10 and 14 because CYA is currently at 120.

We have had lot's of rain over the past 2 weeks, so draining frequently and adding chlorine.
The past few days I have not been as diligent because of intermittent rains, the FC as of today is 1, so I thought I would take this opportunity to check PH and TA.

CYA 120
FC 1
PH is 8 if not more
TA is 130 - 140

I know when I add Chlorine for an FC between 10 and 14, the PH cannot be measured accurately, but since the FC is currently 1 is the PH a true read now?
I know CYA is my bigger worry (drain pool etc.) but still would like to understand if PH should be adjusted downward with muratic acid prior to adding the liquid chlorine? Does this impact the CYA further?

Just started raining again. Wish the folks in the west were getting as much rain as we have been having :(

Thanks in advance!
 
The pH test is valid at FC of 1 ppm. You should never let your FC get that low. Algae has a field day in that environment.

Use acid to lower your pH to 7.4. Use 8 as your current level in Poolmath.
 
The pH test is valid at FC of 1 ppm. You should never let your FC get that low. Algae has a field day in that environment.

Use acid to lower your pH to 7.4. Use 8 as your current level in Poolmath.

Thank you I do have some 31.45% acid left by previous owners. Plugged in the numbers and said to add 25 oz.
Question: I was reading some older threads from 2012 on how to introduce it to the pool. What is the safest method Marty? I might just get the owner to do it. I'm a bit of a klutz...

Pat
 
Pour the acid from the jug directly into the pool at the return stream with the pump running. Try to pour at a pencil size stream.
 
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