Pentair IC40 lights intgemitment

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A

AndyFla

0
Nov 6, 2018
22
Melbourne Fl
My SWG shows no lights at all. I reset the system and sometimes the lights come on blink then suddenly go out. I opened up the pentair easy touch panel and looked for a fuse but there isnt one. The SWG is pluged into the panel and then the cable goes directly to a circuit board hooked to a circuit breaker. When I put the system in Maintenance mode the lights flicker then go off like they should. When I put the system back into normal mode the lights flick on then go off for good. Its getting power so thats not it. Is the cell bad?
 
Andy,

If your cell is wired correctly, it should have no lights anytime you are in the Service mode. It also should not have any lights if NOT in the Pool mode or Spa mode, or anytime the pump is not running.

The flashing "Railroad Crossing" lights are normal every time the power is first applied to the cell and then every 12 hours when it does a calibration.

If you look on the back wall of the EasyTouch, behind the main control panel you will see the cell's power supply board.. If it does not have a green light, then there is either no power getting to the board or the board is bad.. Again... there will be no AC power to the SWCG power supply, unless the pump/filter relay is closed, which means the pump should be running and you must be in the Pool or Spa mode... and not in the Service mode.

This board...

New SWCG PCB.jpg

New SWCG PCB.jpg



Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Andy,

If your cell is wired correctly, it should have no lights anytime you are in the Service mode. It also should not have any lights if NOT in the Pool mode or Spa mode, or anytime the pump is not running.

The flashing "Railroad Crossing" lights are normal every time the power is first applied to the cell and then every 12 hours when it does a calibration.

If you look on the back wall of the EasyTouch, behind the main control panel you will see the cell's power supply board.. If it does not have a green light, then there is either no power getting to the board or the board is bad.. Again... there will be no AC power to the SWCG power supply, unless the pump/filter relay is closed, which means the pump should be running and you must be in the Pool or Spa mode... and not in the Service mode.

This board...

New SWCG PCB.jpg

New SWCG PCB.jpg



Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Jim

Thanks for replying. I looked at the board and there is a green light. See attahed pic.

I also attached a a few pics of the front panel of the SWG. The lights keep flickering and then going out. One pic is when the lights are on and the second one is them off. They were taken about 2 seconds apart. it keeps repeating. The system is in pool mode and i recently added salt. I had the salt tested today and it was 3300. The filter was cleaned just to be sure. I also attached a pic of my remote showing the salt level which confirms the recent test.

Thanks for all your help.

Andy
 

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susa said:
How old is the IC40 cell ? How many hours of use does it have since the installation ?
We use a Pentair IntelliWand to diagnose and monitor all our ICxx cells in all our pools.
www.pentair.com

IntelliWand4® Software Update

Stay up to date with the newest software. Download the latest versions of our software's here.
www.pentair.com www.pentair.com
Click to expand...

When the lights were on, I did a status check by holding down the MORE button and only two lights were on, so according to the manual it was ~4000-5000 hours, its been 5 years since it was installed. I clean it every month and the size of the pool is on the smaller size so I only use the SWG at about 25% during the summer and 15% during the winter.
 
Andy,

If you have been acid cleaning your cell once a month, I am surprised any of the cell plates are left.. :mrgreen:

I see one of two possibilities .. Either the voltage out of the power supply board is low (right on the edge) or.. the cell is bad.

Use a voltmeter to test the DC voltage going to the cell.. It should be between 35 and 40 volts DC... If the volts checks ok, then the cell is toast..

You test the DC voltage between the large Red and Black wires on the white plug going to the cell.. Test the voltage from the back side, with white connector is still connected..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Andy,

If you have been acid cleaning your cell once a month, I am surprised any of the cell plates are left.. :mrgreen:

I see one of two possibilities .. Either the voltage out of the power supply board is low (right on the edge) or.. the cell is bad.

Use a voltmeter to test the DC voltage going to the cell.. It should be between 35 and 40 volts DC... If the volts checks ok, then the cell is toast..

You test the DC voltage between the large Red and Black wires on the white plug going to the cell.. Test the voltage from the back side, with white connector is still connected..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...


Jim

Ok, I couldnt get to the wires from the back side so I unhooked the cell and tested the red and black wires comming from the circuit board, the system was on and in pool mode. I got 27 volts DC comming from the ciruit board. Does that mean the power supply is bad? The cell connects to my main panel from underneath and has a screw type connector. The other side of the connector is inside the panel and runs to the board. That is where I tested it. From the female side of the connector. Hope that was right.

again thanks for helping.

Andy
 
Andy,

I would connect it back up and see of you can stick the test probes into the back of the connector.. If not, use a couple of unfolded paper clips to get in there..

Test the input to the power supply card.. It should be about 24 to 28 volts AC.. You can see where the two Red AC input wires come into the middle of card. Mine are marked AC..

When I've tested the output of the power supply card it is usually 35 volts DC when the cell is generating chlorine, and about 40 VDC when the cell is at rest.

If the AC input to the power supply card is good and the output is below 30 VDC, I would assume the card is bad.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
a
Jimrahbe said:
Andy,

I would connect it back up and see of you can stick the test probes into the back of the connector.. If not, use a couple of unfolded paper clips to get in there..

Test the input to the power supply card.. It should be about 24 to 28 volts AC.. You can see where the two Red AC input wires come into the middle of card. Mine are marked AC..

When I've tested the output of the power supply card it is usually 35 volts DC when the cell is generating chlorine, and about 40 VDC when the cell is at rest.

If the AC input to the power supply card is good and the output is below 30 VDC, I would assume the card is bad.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Jim

Ok I will try tomorrow when its light out. WHen testing the input to the card, is it ok to test directly the two red wired comming from the transformer? I can pull off one of the red wires directly in the center of the board and then pull off the one going to the circuit breaker to get the wires directly off the transformer? i will try that tomorrow and see if its betweem 24-28 volts AC.

Thanks

Andy
 

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