Fixing Water Chemicals

Silva1181

Silver Supporter
Apr 9, 2019
194
Houston
Pool Size
14200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Good morning,
I've been away from TFP for a few months due to illness, doing better now and began working with the pool again. The water has been neglected other then for LC being added daily. However, the testing of the water hasn't been done as much as it needed to be done, so now I am here for assistance to help get the water balanced.

The water looks clear and clean. A couple of days ago and again this morning, I noticed some yellowing (algae ?) on the plaster which I was able to brush off. I grabbed my FAS-DPD kit this morning but immediately noticed the DPD powder is black even though I stored in a dry dark place. I am also out of R0187. I am ordering these today.

I decided to have Leslie's test the water. below are the numbers. I'd appreciate assistance with the steps needed to improve the numbers. I used pool math, using Leslie's #'s so I see what I need to add, but I am not understanding the order of the process to add chemicals.

FC - 0.12
TC - 0.13
PH 8.4
TA - 131
CH - 217
CYA - 14
Iron - 0.1
Copper - 0
Phosphates 488
TDS 500

Thank you advance with your assistance.
 
I would add liquid chlorine daily, until your re-agents arrive. Are our CYA, PH, and TA reagents okay? If so, what are those results?
 
Hello, I tested the water using the my regeants I had that were not expired and here are some of the readings:

PH - is above 8
TA - 140
CH - 330
CYA - is well below 30. I filled the reader and could clearly see the black dot at 30.

I also did the acid demand and it took 5 drops of R0005 to turn change the color of the water. I won't receive the DPD until next week.

Is there anything I should add now other than LC to begin the process of fixing the water?

thank you
 
Hello, I tested the water using the my regeants I had that were not expired and here are some of the readings:

PH - is above 8
TA - 140
CH - 330
CYA - is well below 30. I filled the reader and could clearly see the black dot at 30.

I also did the acid demand and it took 5 drops of R0005 to turn change the color of the water. I won't receive the DPD until next week.

Is there anything I should add now other than LC to begin the process of fixing the water?

thank you
You could start lowering the ph to about 7.5 with ma according to PoolMath
& like they said just add lc until you’re reagents arrive
 
Great thank you.

So in regards to addressing the yellowish colors that began to appear on the plaster, I need to wait until I can do a full test once my DPD arrives?

In the mean time I will add MA to help with PH and continue to add LC per day, and then retesting again once I receive the DPD?

thanks,
 
good morning, I finally received my DPD to test FC. took readings this morning and this is where I am. I need assistance with the process/order in which to balance out the chemicals. I do not know which steps to take and how long to wait in between in step.

FC - 4 (I added LC yesterday evening, this may be why the FC is at 4, but I am sure it will burn off)
PH - 8 (I added MA last week but the PH is still high)
TA - 150
CH - 340
CYA - 0 (I filled the reader to 30 and can still clearly see the black dot).

I appreciate the help.
 
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Start 30 ppm worth of CYA powder dissolving using the sock method.
Lower your pH to 7.2. Add the MA to get there, circulate for a good 30 minutes, test pH, and adjust if necessary to get to 7.2.
Add LC to raise FC to 12 ppm. Maintain that by testing and adding LC several times a day until your algae is gone and you pass the OCLT.
No need to wait between any of the steps above. Just do not add liquid chlorine and acid at the same time to the pool.
 
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Thanks, mknauss. I could only find chlorine stabilizer at Home Depot in the granular form, no powder. If I use, about 3-4 pounds in a sock for my pool, and this will take a day or so to dissolve. I can buy a 1 gallon of liquid form which equates to 4lbs. Ok to use liquid form
 
The granular form is great. Taking a day or two to dissolve is fine.
The liquid works too, just more expensive.

You need 4 lbs to start. Eventually you will need more as you will want your CYA at 50 ppm or so after you finish the SLAM Process
 
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thanks. I decided to use the granular in a skimmer sock and placed one in front of a jet and one in the skimmer.

I am going to add MA now to begin lowering the PH which I am guessing is okay to add MA now? If I get the CYA up and PH down, and FC to an acceptable level today, will it be okay to use the pool tomorrow as long as I keep these levels in proper range and even though the granular haven't fully dissolved?
 
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Adjust the pH now. Then manage FC. Assume your CYA level is what you targeted with the CYA granules that are dissolving. Follow the FC/CYA Levels for FC levels. You can swim whenever you want!
 
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well, I lowered the PH too much to 7.0. Purchased some soda ash to raise and have it now at 7.2.

CYA is now between 30 - 40.

Added LC to slam and will monitor through the day.
 
Great.

In the future, unless absolutely necessary, do not chemically raise pH. The soda ash you added no doubt raised your TA alot. Aeration will raise pH easily.
 
ok. well a lesson learned and $20 wasted, bummer. I read the the info in Pool School which recommended using soda ash to raise PH if too low, so I ran to the store to buy it. I was able to turn 2 of my return jets upward to aerate, hopefully it works. I'll keep the pool running through the late evening to see if aerating helps with TA.

So far my FC level has remained at 13 FC for the past 3 hours with no change and lots of direct sun.

I am stepping away from home and will check levels again in the morning.
 

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