I’m all in with TFP protocols, but I’m in transition. I’ve ordered my retest kit but not sure when it will arrive. I have several recent Leslies water tests. I have several jugs of liquid chlorine on hand and plenty of CYA loaded shock and pucks. It became clear that my CYA was so high I needed to drain and refill to lower, which I did. I have Leslie’s tests on hand for three recent consecutive days that indicate a CYA level of 70, 50, and 70 respectively. My latest test 4/14 shows a CYA of 70 and a total alkalinity of 77 (recommending almost 4 lbs of alkalinity up to level) and high phosphates (300) and my PH is on the high end at 7.8. Can anyone chip in some advice on how I should react until I get my legit test kit and really figure out what’s going on? I’m afraid to add any chemicals these amateurs at my local pool store are suggesting. What should I do in the meantime while I await a solid test? I have the poolmath app but I’ve entered test results from Leslies so I am unsure of the accuracy. With my own basic test, my PH is on the high end of acceptable and alkalinity is a little low. My water looks great, but I want to be proactive as I transition to liquid chlorine and the TFP ways. Any help is appreciated!
Looking for experienced input!
- Thread starter Screenmachine
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,365
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Only maintain your FC level following the FC/CYA Levels and keep your pH in the 7's until you get your own test kit.
None of the other stuff is important in the short term.
None of the other stuff is important in the short term.
Thanks Allen. My current test kit only goes to 3 and pool store is on the same scale. This chart requires a minimum of 5. How should I react to that? Obviously add more chlorine, but how much?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,365
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Whatever it takes to get to 3 add an extra dose. Just go heavy on chlorine.
You can be anywhere between FC of 5 and 28 and be
You using PoolMath?
You can be anywhere between FC of 5 and 28 and be
You using PoolMath?
Yes but entering results from pool store test currently in transition. Their Fac only goes to 3 as well.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,365
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Sorry, the FC values are different on the pool store test/my current test kit and the chart you shared. It shows I should have a minimum value Of 5 but my test only goes to 3.
Regardless, follow ajw22's advice and add chlorine only until you get a dependable test kit. In your case, adding 1/2 gallon of 6% clorox each day is just fine until you can post some dependable results.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,365
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You have to decide whose advice you will follow and stop trying to make sense of the others.
So confirm you are at least at 3 with your test and then add more chlorine. On most tests you can see that the value is over the max.
Just to second (third?) what has already been said:
Experienced input is to ignore the pool store (don't even bother taking any more samples in), don't rely on your current testing, and wait. Add a little chlorine like they said, and put it out of your mind. No joke, one of the most necessary yet difficult thing any of us have to do with our pool is nothing. You want so much to get on it, to get it going. Don't give in to that. Blind chemical additions can make things worse and create entirely new problems. Pool stores will charge you to make things worse.
The two most important things the inexperienced can learn: don't try to rush it and trust your own testing. By the second, I mean don't go to the pool store to 'verify' your readings. Ask us if you think you did something wrong, but overall trust your readings. I trust someone on their first TF-100 attempt more than I trust any pool store numbers. You got this.
Experienced input is to ignore the pool store (don't even bother taking any more samples in), don't rely on your current testing, and wait. Add a little chlorine like they said, and put it out of your mind. No joke, one of the most necessary yet difficult thing any of us have to do with our pool is nothing. You want so much to get on it, to get it going. Don't give in to that. Blind chemical additions can make things worse and create entirely new problems. Pool stores will charge you to make things worse.
The two most important things the inexperienced can learn: don't try to rush it and trust your own testing. By the second, I mean don't go to the pool store to 'verify' your readings. Ask us if you think you did something wrong, but overall trust your readings. I trust someone on their first TF-100 attempt more than I trust any pool store numbers. You got this.
Thanks everyone! Those posts are all very helpful! Pools store guy told me when I returned the dichlor shock he sold me when I asked for shock that would not raise my CYA - “Your pool will turn green every day this summer if you are not using this stuff!” Then he refused to refund my $ only offering a store credit. So the good news is I Have already paid for quite a few trips back to pick up more 12.5% liquid chlorine and I can bring him a picture of my great looking pool! I am super grateful for all of you!
Get your own good test kit and you will NEVER have to go there again......Unless, of course, you decide you miss the ignorant advice he offers!! 
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,365
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60