I am new to your forum and website

[duraleigh]

Kathy, Welcome to the forumwave:

In this long back and forth, I have not seen anyone suggest what I consider the Primer for TFP methods.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School

 

[Kathy bartz]

I bet you need to get your cya up and SLAM...
But wait for a member with more experience ?

Cya

Pool Water Chemistry

This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...

www.troublefreepool.com

Slam

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

okay I am preparing to slam and I have a good test kit on its way to me. I should have that probably by tomorrow. I have never used a test kit so that will be another learning experience for me.
Thank you so much for all the great advice and I will be in touch.
Kathy

 

[Kathy bartz]

Check this out......

thanks a bunch for the video! things are starting to make sense to me LOL. I will start the slam process and should have my new test kit I think by Monday.
I have never used a test kit such as this so I'm hoping it's not over-the-top for me LOL.
Thank you so much for your detailed explanations and help. you all are making it easy for me to understand and I think I'm starting to get it.
I will start the slam process and be in touch after I get my test kit.
Have a great day and thank you again, Kathy

 

[Kathy bartz]

Kathy, Welcome to the forumwave:

In this long back and forth, I have not seen anyone suggest what I consider the Primer for TFP methods.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School

thank you for that and yes I think you're correct I have not read the ABCs of pool water chemistry so I will go to pool school and check that out.
Thank you so much for all of your help and good advice. I think I'm kind of starting to get it LOL
have a great day and I'll be in touch once I receive my test kit in a couple days. I will be starting the slam process meanwhile.
You guys are all just amazing I am so taken back and how everybody genuinely cares and the great advice.
I will be making a donation to the company since all of your advice is priceless and yes everybody's right the pool stores have sent me on Wild Goose chases for years. well, haha for them, I have you guys now.
Many thanks and have a great day, Kathy

 

[Kathy bartz]

I get liquid chlorine from WM in the pool section for now 10%. Check the dates if you can. I've also used Top Job bleach 5% (I'm guessing) because it takes twice as much (only a dollar tho). Again check dates it will be something like 19 174 (yr the day of yr). You want the most recent date.

I ordered stabilizer for cya from WM, it might be in your store. (Hth stabilizer pods)

Muriatic Acid from lowes or home depot (lowers ph) Avoid breathing it and splashing it on anything. I mixed it in a bucket with pool water for a while, now I just pour it in...you'll get there. Mainly now, you need the heavy chlorine, test kit and cya ?

Thank you for the good advice. I am almost set to go here I have the liquid shock, chlorine and I do have muriatic acid if that's what you're talking about, cya?
Unfortunately I have a huge 50 lb bucket of 3 in tablets and I have the impression that those are not what you should use unless you're on vacation. I rarely if ever go on vacation so by chance do you have any advice on how I can use these up it was a huge chunk of money.
Things are starting to make sense to me thanks to you guys. you are all amazing and I can't thank you enough. I am so glad to have stumbled across you guys. God works in strange ways and I could not have found you at a better time.
I have a new test kit on its way to me I will start the slam process and once I get my test kit I will be back in touch.
Thank you again and have a great day, Kathy

 

[Oly]

CYA is Cyanuric Acid commonly known a stabilizer.
Be sure to read the label, you want 100% cyanuric acid and can find it at big hardware stores in the pool section. It is available as a dry material or liquid (more expensive). Do not over apply CYA or you will need to drain out water to reduce the level.
Keep adding liquid chlorine to your pool daily and when you receive your test kit post the results before adding other chems.

 

[frogabog]

Muriatic acid is used to lower your pH. Only use this when you need to, and do be very careful when using it. Wear personal protective equipment such as goggles and gloves. The vapors are very strong and can harm your lungs, so stand up wind when you pour directly from the bottle.

use a 5 gallon bucket half filled with water (or as much as you can lift), pour the muriatic acid into the water and stir with a plastic spoon (no metal spoons). Then pour the bucket slowly in front of your return.

Cyanuric acid is, as Oly noted above, often called stabilizer. Consider this sunscreen for your chlorine. Without it you will lose all of your chlorine every day. It helps keep the chlorine stabilized so that it doesn't all disappear. You will only need to add this if your CYA test is too low, but let's check that when you get your kit. Also, you should only need to add it once, for the moment. It is far less dangerous to handle than the muriatic acid. It is commonly sold as a powder which is cheaper than liquid, and you will use a sock (from your sock drawer) tied off at the opening with a string to hang it in the water (away from the wall) and soak it so that it dissolves. We squish the sock every half hour or so to help it disperse. Once it's in the water, it is there and doesn't normally decrease (unless you backwash a lot of water out).

Chlorine and liquid shock are the same thing. When we say chlorine, it is referring to all forms of chlorine which includes the liquid shock, bleach, chlorinating liquid, trichlor (tablets), dichlor (powdered shock products), and cal-hypo (another powdered shock product).

As to what to do with the tablets you have... I would save them for the moment. You may have to be away for a day or so sometime, or you might want to use them to increase your CYA a little. Note, they will also lower your pH. For regular maintenance though, don't use them. Use liquid chlorine (shock) or bleach for regular maintenance after your CYA level is set manually by you.

Happy shopping!

 

[duraleigh]

There was a post on the forum several years ago wherein a member was so afraid of muriatic, he would dress up like he was going for a moonwalk.

Somehow, some way this member ended up dosing himself inside his space suit. The problem then was he couldn't get out of the multiple wrappings of protective gear and ended up burning some skin and inhaling a couple of good whiffs.

My point is that Muriatic doesn't have to be treated as the harbinger of doom. It is simply a liquid that can EASILY be handled safely
with some understanding.

I only open the bottle on the edge of the pool.

If a catastrophic spill should occur (I have no idea how that's even possible), I would simply roll immediately into the pool.....a wet wallet being the only damage.

I never pour it into another container away from the pool. I guestimate a pint or more poured directly from the jug. If your pool is small and you need less, use a plastic measuring jug held over the pool water and pour from the gallon jug.

Lower the gallon jug at least halfway into the pool. This takes most of the weight off the jug and also allows you to pour out at or very near the surface of the water.....it never splashes if you will do this.

Keep the breeze at your back or side when pouring. Catching a good whiff of the stuff (if you lean over it) is a memorable experience but you will not suffer any damage other than perhaps a wounded ego because you forgot all the precautions listed.

Muriatic is the BEST way to lower pH. There is no residual and there is essentially no detrimental side effect.

 

[Kathy bartz]

Muriatic acid is used to lower your pH. Only use this when you need to, and do be very careful when using it. Wear personal protective equipment such as goggles and gloves. The vapors are very strong and can harm your lungs, so stand up wind when you pour directly from the bottle.

use a 5 gallon bucket half filled with water (or as much as you can lift), pour the muriatic acid into the water and stir with a plastic spoon (no metal spoons). Then pour the bucket slowly in front of your return.

Cyanuric acid is, as Oly noted above, often called stabilizer. Consider this sunscreen for your chlorine. Without it you will lose all of your chlorine every day. It helps keep the chlorine stabilized so that it doesn't all disappear. You will only need to add this if your CYA test is too low, but let's check that when you get your kit. Also, you should only need to add it once, for the moment. It is far less dangerous to handle than the muriatic acid. It is commonly sold as a powder which is cheaper than liquid, and you will use a sock (from your sock drawer) tied off at the opening with a string to hang it in the water (away from the wall) and soak it so that it dissolves. We squish the sock every half hour or so to help it disperse. Once it's in the water, it is there and doesn't normally decrease (unless you backwash a lot of water out).

Chlorine and liquid shock are the same thing. When we say chlorine, it is referring to all forms of chlorine which includes the liquid shock, bleach, chlorinating liquid, trichlor (tablets), dichlor (powdered shock products), and cal-hypo (another powdered shock product).

As to what to do with the tablets you have... I would save them for the moment. You may have to be away for a day or so sometime, or you might want to use them to increase your CYA a little. Note, they will also lower your pH. For regular maintenance though, don't use them. Use liquid chlorine (shock) or bleach for regular maintenance after your CYA level is set manually by you.

Happy shopping!

wow thank you so much for simplifying the issue for me in my mind. unfortunately that's what I need is a clear explanation like you're talking to a child. you have all been very helpful it's a lot to remember but I am getting the gist of it. I have dumped two bottles of shock in today I have a 25000 gallon pool and we'll dump two more in later tomorrow when the Sun goes down. man oh man I have been doing everything completely wrong no wonder I have had problems for years and years. I have never been able to get a chlorine reading all the years I've been here and as you would suspect, the pool stores sent me on a wild-goose chase and I spent literally thousands of dollars following their directions. I feel like for the first time my pool will be handled properly buy some honest experts but just in time for me to sell my house and pass that wonderful knowledge on to the next people.
I am still waiting on my test kit Which I will check on here shortly to see when I can expect it.
Thank you bunches And bunches for all of your help. Kathy

 

[Kathy bartz]

CYA is Cyanuric Acid commonly known a stabilizer.
Be sure to read the label, you want 100% cyanuric acid and can find it at big hardware stores in the pool section. It is available as a dry material or liquid (more expensive). Do not over apply CYA or you will need to drain out water to reduce the level.
Keep adding liquid chlorine to your pool daily and when you receive your test kit post the results before adding other chems.

Olli thank you for the great information and the video. I do need to get some cya, stabilizer to add to my pool and after I have that and probably some more shock after the four gallons I will have already put in I should have my test kit and be good to go. I am anxious to finally do things the right way and not be led astray by pool companies that have taken literally thousands of dollars over the years and to have never solved the problems.
Thank you again dearly and we will be in touch. Kathy
I don't know if you'll be surprised to know this but I've been in this house for 15 years and have never been able to get a chlorine reading

 

[Kathy bartz]

Olli thank you for the great information and the video. I do need to get some cya, stabilizer to add to my pool and after I have that and probably some more shock after the four gallons I will have already put in I should have my test kit and be good to go. I am anxious to finally do things the right way and not be led astray by pool companies that have taken literally thousands of dollars over the years and to have never solved the problems.
Thank you again dearly and we will be in touch. Kathy
I don't know if you'll be surprised to know this but I've been in this house for 15 years and have never been able to get a chlorine reading

I apologize for misspelling your name. I am talk texting and when I first said it it came up right and then after I sent it I saw that it changed it. I'll get it right next time LOL

 

[Kathy bartz]

There was a post on the forum several years ago wherein a member was so afraid of muriatic, he would dress up like he was going for a moonwalk.

Somehow, some way this member ended up dosing himself inside his space suit. The problem then was he couldn't get out of the multiple wrappings of protective gear and ended up burning some skin and inhaling a couple of good whiffs.

My point is that Muriatic doesn't have to be treated as the harbinger of doom. It is simply a liquid that can EASILY be handled safely
with some understanding.

I only open the bottle on the edge of the pool.

If a catastrophic spill should occur (I have no idea how that's even possible), I would simply roll immediately into the pool.....a wet wallet being the only damage.

I never pour it into another container away from the pool. I guestimate a pint or more poured directly from the jug. If your pool is small and you need less, use a plastic measuring jug held over the pool water and pour from the gallon jug.

Lower the gallon jug at least halfway into the pool. This takes most of the weight off the jug and also allows you to pour out at or very near the surface of the water.....it never splashes if you will do this.

Keep the breeze at your back or side when pouring. Catching a good whiff of the stuff (if you lean over it) is a memorable experience but you will not suffer any damage other than perhaps a wounded ego because you forgot all the precautions listed.

Muriatic is the BEST way to lower pH. There is no residual and there is essentially no detrimental side effect.

that was a good story luckily I don't own up space suit LOL I kind of live life on the edge song I will take my chances but will heed your wisdom. Thank you for the great advice.

 

[Kathy bartz]

good morning to everybody that will read this. you will all get a good laugh out of this because since I've been corresponding with all of you and all that I have learned I clearly understand now about Pool Store recommendations being over-the-top and I'm going to List what they are telling me to put in my pool. Just for the fun of it.
2 quarts and 1 pint of proteam metal magic because my copper is too high. My copper is 3 PPM
10 lb in 14 oz of protein alkalinity up
Superchlorination is required 2 gallons 1 quart and 12 oz
7 lb 1.3 oz of UV Shield

2 quarts in 1 pint of phosfree

Holy cow that would have cost me a couple hundred dollars I'm sure. I've learned now that it is just a big moneymaker for pool stores and that's what's been going on in my life for years and years so again I am so blessed to have stumbled across you guys and grateful. Thank you all again! Kathy

 

[mknauss]

use a 5 gallon bucket half filled with water (or as much as you can lift), pour the muriatic acid into the water and stir with a plastic spoon (no metal spoons). Then pour the bucket slowly in front of your return.

This is unnecessary and increases risk of handling the muriatic acid. Pour directly from the bottle into the pool if the volume you need to add is greater than 2 cups. If less, use a plastic measure device and pour the acid into it over the pool water.

 

[Kathy bartz]

Kathy, Welcome to the forumwave:

In this long back and forth, I have not seen anyone suggest what I consider the Primer for TFP methods.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School

thank you for that. I did go to pool school and learned a lot from the various things in there. my new test kit should arrive today So I am looking forward to getting some accurate results. I did post a list of what the pool store is telling me to put in my pool. You'll get a kick out of that if you can find it.
Thank you again, Kathy

 

[duraleigh]

+1 what mknauss posted above.

 

[Kathy bartz]

+1 what mknauss posted above.

Has anybody ever heard of Ultima t. K. O. It's a multi Action Powder clams to kill bacteria destroys organic contaminants controls algae active ingredients are

Calcium hypochlorite 73%
Other ingredients 27% minimum available chlorine 70%.
Is this product by chance recommended and if so do I use this after I slam my pool and get my stabilizer in my pool?
Thank you, Kathy

 

[mknauss]

If your CH is very low you can use cal hypo. But just get plain. No secret ingredients.

 

[Kathy bartz]

If your CH is very low you can use cal hypo. But just get plain. No secret ingredients.

Thank you for your advice I will check it out.

 

[Tena]

If you are moving to a house with a pool, you can use the tabs there occasionally. I think they last a while. Or you can leave them for the new owner. They will bring cya up slowly.

I hope your new house will have a pool, now that you are learning all the right stuff. ?