Brand New Pentair IC60 not producing Chlorine

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lafonte98

lafonte98

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May 3, 2016
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Collinsville, IL
Installed a new IC60 a week or so ago. It was producing Chlorine just fine when I first installed it. The salt light was flashing when I first installed so I drained some water to lower the salt. The easy touch panel is reporting the salt level of 4,200ppm which I know is on the high side of the spectrum. I tested the salt level with test kit K-1766, the results were 5,200ppm. Could the cell not be producing Chlorine due to the high salt level of the pool even though the cell is not flashing indicating it recognizes the high salt level? The Cell light comes on as a solid green indicating it is producing Chlorine but it is not....

My thoughts are I need to drain some water to lower the salt level but would like some feedback if possible.

Thanks,

Greg
 
Pentair IC's will operate at high salt levels. So that is not the issue.

How are testing that the IC is not producing chlorine?
 
I originally checked it as I normally do with Aquacheck 7 test strips. Since you brought up that question, I then double checked the levels with my K-2006 test kit, those results are below:

IC60 is set up to produce 50% Chlorine via EasyTouch panel.

Using 25mL sample:

FC = .6ppm
CC = .4ppm
 
If the cell is not working, it would be obvious. If the cell light is green, it's working.

Go to Easytouch and check chlorinator diagnostics.

Do you see tiny hydrogen bubbles coming out of the returns when the cell is generating?

You can check the amps of the power supply to the IC40 to verify that it's working. During production, the amps at 240 volts should be about 0.7.

You can also take a water sample directly from the return to compare the chlorine reading vs the general pool water away from the returns.

Most likely, you just need to SLAM. Once the fc falls behind, it's hard to catch up.

What is the pump run schedule?
 
Last edited:
Follow what James said --

Also, strips are useless.

If your FC is that low, you may have an algae bloom occuring. That will consume your FC faster than the IC can produce it.
 
JamesW said:
If the cell is not working, it would be obvious. If the cell light is green, it's working.

Go to Easytouch and check chlorinator diagnostics.

Do you see tiny hydrogen bubbles coming out of the returns when the cell is generating?

You can check the amps of the power supply to the IC40 to verify that it's working. During production, the amps at 240 volts should be about 0.7.

You can also take a water sample directly from the return to compare the chlorine reading vs the general pool water away from the returns.

Most likely, you just need to SLAM. Once the fc falls behind, it's hard to catch up.

What is the pump run schedule?
Click to expand...

James,

No bubbles at the returns. Pool pump (2300rpm) is running 24hrs and IC60 is now set at 60%, I checked the diagnostics at the ET panel and all looked normal. I do have some liquid Chlorine that I could use to help catch up the pool as far as the FC levels are concerned.
 
98,

Since you have the K-2006, you can do a couple of things... Assuming that algae is not obvious, then you can do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT.. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test Basically, with the SWCG off you want to know if the chlorine is going down when it is dark.. If it does, then you have algae consuming your FC..

If you pass the OCLT, then you can run the test again, this time with the SWCG on at 100%... The resulting FC increase is the amount of chlorine your cell is producing per hour.. You can compare this number to the theoretical amount the cell should be producing using pool math..

You did not say, but how long are you running your pump??

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
If chlorinator diagnostics in easytouch says no problems, then it's probably ok.

If your fc is low you probably need to SLAM and then follow up with adequate production of chlorine.

Try turning the production to 100% and look closely for tiny hydrogen bubbles coming from the returns.
 

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Jimrahbe said:
98,

Since you have the K-2006, you can do a couple of things... Assuming that algae is not obvious, then you can do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT.. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test Basically, with the SWCG off you want to know if the chlorine is going down when it is dark.. If it does, then you have algae consuming your FC..

If you pass the OCLT, then you can run the test again, this time with the SWCG on at 100%... The resulting FC increase is the amount of chlorine your cell is producing per hour.. You can compare this number to the theoretical amount the cell should be producing using pool math..

You did not say, but how long are you running your pump??

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...


Jim,

Pool pump runs 24hrs. I will run the OCLT test tonight to see what happens. Below is my current readings according to my test kit:

FC = 1ppm
CC = .2ppm
PH = 7.4
ALK = 60ppm
CYA = 30ppm
CH = 400ppm

So the recommendation is to boost my SWG and see what happens? Then test Chlorine level during the day, and follow up with the Overnight test....?

Thanks for all the advice.

Greg
 
Can you post a picture of the cell control panel?

What is the manufacturing date from the sticker on the back of the cell?

Did Easytouch say chlorinator ok no problems when you check diagnostics?
 
JamesW said:
Can you post a picture of the cell control panel?

What is the manufacturing date from the sticker on the back of the cell?

Did Easytouch say chlorinator ok no problems when you check diagnostics?
Click to expand...

James,

Manufacture date on IC60 is 11/26/2018. EasyTouch says Chlorinator is ok, no issues. Currently SuperChlorinating... See pictures.
 

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Ok, I think that it's working. If it wasn't, it would show an error.

If you need to know for sure, you can measure the current going into the power supply. If it's working, the current should be about 0.7 amps. If it's not working, the amps will be close to zero.

You should be able to see hydrogen bubbles from the returns. They are tiny and hard to see, especially at higer flow rates.

You can also take a water sample directly from the return to compare the chlorine reading vs the general pool water away from the returns.

Take it off Superchlorinate and change the percentage to 100%. Then, check diagnostics again
 
While I had it in SuperChlorinate the FC has went up to 3ppm while the CC is at .2ppm. I changed the output to 100% and took it off of SuperChlorinate mode. Went back to diagnostics and it shows everything is okay. Any idea what the true difference is between the two? Is it that the SuperChlorinate mode allows you to set a time period to end while the other would continue until changed by the user?

Thanks for taking time on a Sunday to help me out. I appreciate all of the advice.
 
Superchlorinate changes the output to 100% for 24 hours and then the output automatically reverts back to the original level.

Setting to 100% will remain at 100% until you change it.

All indications point to the chlorinator working correctly.
 

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