New pool owner mom in Texas

[Texaspoolmariposa]

Hi everyone. I'm a mom of 2 elementary aged kids. We live in Texas and just bought a house with a pool. We are planning to convert it to salt water, hopefully getting the pool guy to come out next week. We just closed on Wednesday, but aren't moving in for a another week or so to have the house painted. I ordered a Taylor k2006 kit, but amazon says it won't arrive until Thursday. I know you guys don't like Leslies, but we took the water in to be tested and it sounds like we will need a partial drain because our CYA is 100+ and our Calcium hardness is 550. The previous owners were using floaters with tabs so I'm sure that is why the CYA is so high. We know nothing about having a pool, but I am determined to read, read, read until I've got it. I downloaded the pool math app so I can keep track of my testing info.

At this point I'm not sure if we should do anything since I don't have the taylor kit. Should I remove the floaters? Can my kids safely swim at these levels or is it better to hold off? Would you treat the TA to bring it down or wait since will need to drain to get the other numbers down?

Thank you. I'm so glad this forum is here.

ps I need to add things to my signature, but I don't really know what kid of pool we have. We measured it to get the approx volume.

 

[woodyp]

Welcome to the forum. I'd leave the floater with pucks in for another week or so until you can move in unless you have easy access to adjusting levels. Are you planning on letting the kids swim before you move in? I wouldn't adjust anything until you decide to do a partial drain which looks pretty imminent.

 

[Texaspoolmariposa]

Welcome to the forum. I'd leave the floater with pucks in for another week or so until you can move in unless you have easy access to adjusting levels. Are you planning on letting the kids swim before you move in? I wouldn't adjust anything until you decide to do a partial drain which looks pretty imminent.

Thank you. I would let them swim if it was safe to do so, but if it's not we will just wait. We currently live about 5 minutes away so we are over there multiple times a day-- moving things into the garage or wherever won't be in the way of the painters.

 

[Jimrahbe]

tpm,

With a CYA of over 100 and FC of 10, it is perfectly fine for swimming.. Not sure where you are located, but in the DFW area the pool water is still a little cold for me...

I hope you bought the Taylor K-2006C... the 'C' is very important because it denotes the size of the bottles.. Kits without the C don't last long.

Having your own test kit is the most important part of the TFP pool care process, so you are halfway there already.

You have a gunite pool with a non-spillover spa. If you post a couple of pics of your equipment pad, we can tell you a little bit more..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome! I don't doubt the CH and CYA are high since many pool owners simply don't realize what tabs do - and local hard water. By the way, please update your profile location to show what city you are at in our great state. It's quite large you know. As for the sig, you appear to have a plaster pool (very nice by the way!). You can take notes of the pool pump(s), filter, and anything else you see on your next visit to add to the sig as well. If you are still in doubt, post a pic of something and we'll tell you what it is.

Just so you know .... "IF" (big if) those pool store tests are close, the only reason your pool isn't green with a CYA that high is because the FC is high to keep up with it. See our FC/CYA Levels for info. But while you are preparing for the move, make sure to take full advantage of brushing up on all of our resources like ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, the PoolMath tool (or app), and those Vital Links below in my sig. They will all help and come in handy. Congrats on the new purchase! Perfect timing. It's getting warm in TX.

 

[Texaspoolmariposa]

tpm,



I hope you bought the Taylor K-2006C... the 'C' is very important because it denotes the size of the bottles.. Kits without the C don't last long.



Jim R.

It was the 2006. BUT I just cancelled that and ordered the 2006C. Thank you for pointing that out! New delivery says Wednesday.

 

[Jimrahbe]

tpm,

You will be glad you did...

Jim R.

 

[Texaspoolmariposa]

tpm,

With a CYA of over 100 and FC of 10, it is perfectly fine for swimming.. Not sure where you are located, but in the DFW area the pool water is still a little cold for me...



Jim R.

You're right the water is cold. I would have to turn the heater on in the morning. Does running the heater affect the chemical levels?

 

[Jimrahbe]

tpm,

Running the heater will only effect your wallet...

Jim R.

 

[justinc]

tpm,

Running the heater will only effect your wallet...

Jim R.

If the gas bill is still in the previous owners name, this won't be much of a problem.

 

[Teald024]

Hello and Welcome to TFP!! It's great you found your way here. Great looking pool you have.

When you are looking at the SWG's, make sure it is rated for at least 2x larger than your pool volume. Larger is better and it is usually a minimal cost to go up a size and will allow it to last longer. Feel free to post the quotes you get if you want any advice.

 

[Texaspoolmariposa]

Thank you all for the welcome and help. I have more questions. :-D

How do we drain the pool? Where do we drain the water? When do the temps become an issue for the lining and draining? Currently it has been in the high 80s, low 90s. Is this something we can do on our own or should be call someone to drain? After drain do we just keep testing and adjusting (possibly draining more) until we've got it? At that point we can convert to salt?

 

[splashpad]

Thank you all for the welcome and help. I have more questions. :-D

How do we drain the pool? Where do we drain the water? When do the temps become an issue for the lining and draining? Currently it has been in the high 80s, low 90s. Is this something we can do on our own or should be call someone to drain? After drain do we just keep testing and adjusting (possibly draining more) until we've got it? At that point we can convert to salt?

@mknauss has a fool-proof method for draining & refilling at same time

For where to drain: There maybe a sewer cleanout around your house/property somewhere, not sure if you can drain your pool onto your lawn.

You'll be ready to convert once you've lowered the CYA between 60-80

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning! To drain the pool for a water exchange and lower the CYA and CH, you might consider buying or renting a sump pump. Home Depot rents them along with a hose or two and they are very efficient. When you do exchange water, just make sure to not drain lower than about 18" - 24" or so from the bottom. That will keep the walls and liner steady. If the water table in your area is high from heavy saturated soils, you might consider a water exchange option by placing a sump pump in the deep end to slowly remove water while you have new water going in at the shallow end. Kind of a slow-steady swap versus a drain & refill. Perhaps not as quick or efficient, but an option nonetheless. Whichever method you chose, simply let the new water mix fo about 30 min or so and re-test the CYA/CH. Continue until you are happy with the resullts.

 

[mknauss]

A little more detail on the exchange process ---
You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.

 

[Texaspoolmariposa]

Hard water question. If the water is very hard where we live will the calcium hardness be something we always battle? I plan to test the tap water once my kit arrives, but what happens when you remove hard water just to replace it with hard water? Is there anything that can be done to bring it down in the long run?

 

[splashpad]

Hard water question. If the water is very hard where we live will the calcium hardness be something we always battle? I plan to test the tap water once my kit arrives, but what happens when you remove hard water just to replace it with hard water? Is there anything that can be done to bring it down in the long run?

Yes and no, the simplest way to not raise it radically is stay away from Cal Hypo. You do have a pool type that does need calcium/hardness in the water, which is good

 

[mknauss]

Hard water question. If the water is very hard where we live will the calcium hardness be something we always battle? I plan to test the tap water once my kit arrives, but what happens when you remove hard water just to replace it with hard water? Is there anything that can be done to bring it down in the long run?

What is the TA, CH and pH of your fill water?
The only way to remove calcium from your water is to use a water softener or reverse osmosis. Do you have a whole house water softener? If so, and sized appropriately, you can plumb from your softener to the pool. You would need to analyze that.

In my area, our fill water is 250 ppm CH. I find I exchange the water in my pool about every 16 months or so when my CH goes above 800 ppm. That is all due to evaporation.

 

[Teald024]

If you have hard water, you will always need to pay attention to CH and all other levels to to keep the water balanced. It isn’t just CH, but all will play their part to help you stay balanced to prevent scale and not be corrosive.
When you pay attention, the high CH is easily manageable. There are members who have been able to keep balanced with CH in excess of 1000ppm. Then you exchange very high CH water with your tap water to bring CH down.

 

[Texaspoolmariposa]

What is the TA, CH and pH of your fill water?
The only way to remove calcium from your water is to use a water softener or reverse osmosis. Do you have a whole house water softener? If so, and sized appropriately, you can plumb from your softener to the pool. You would need to analyze that.

In my area, our fill water is 250 ppm CH. I find I exchange the water in my pool about every 16 months or so when my CH goes above 800 ppm. That is all due to evaporation.

I haven't tested the fill water yet, but I will. We do have a water softener, no idea if it would be big enough to handle the pool-- I'm guessing not. Appreciate the feedback. I'm one of those that likes to know the future game plan for everything so just trying to wrap my head around the best way to manage all aspects.