Thanks all for the info on liens and the jets. I was not positive on the size of the fm threads. Just got back from home depot with a 1.5" male cap and it fit the pool return pipe - so it was not 1.75"
New Construction: Cathedral City CA
- Thread starter Yorker
- Start date
Seeking suggestions on chemistry.
Our numbers have been looking good and stable, I test FC and pH one to two times as day (for educational purposes) and the other tests weekly.
Do I need to do anything with my falling TA? The pool will be converted to saltwater in a little over a week.
It's day 19 since the fill.
Here is today's numbers and some older ones as well:
FC: 6.5
CC: 0
pH: 7.2
TA: 50 ... (70 six days ago, 60 nine days ago, 80 twelve days ago 120 seventeen days ago)
CH: 350 (2 days ago)
CYA: 30 (2 days ago)
Temp: 78
CSI: -.54. ... recent CSI numbers when all tests were preformed:-.20, -.11, .15, .64, -.23
Our numbers have been looking good and stable, I test FC and pH one to two times as day (for educational purposes) and the other tests weekly.
Do I need to do anything with my falling TA? The pool will be converted to saltwater in a little over a week.
It's day 19 since the fill.
Here is today's numbers and some older ones as well:
FC: 6.5
CC: 0
pH: 7.2
TA: 50 ... (70 six days ago, 60 nine days ago, 80 twelve days ago 120 seventeen days ago)
CH: 350 (2 days ago)
CYA: 30 (2 days ago)
Temp: 78
CSI: -.54. ... recent CSI numbers when all tests were preformed:-.20, -.11, .15, .64, -.23
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,874
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Numbers look good. FC is a little high. Shoot for 5 or 6, don't let it go below 4.
I wish CSI was higher. Are you actively pushing pH down, with MA? If so, let it come up. 7.7 or 7.8 should give you a near zero CSI. See if your TA stabilizes at that pH.
Be sure to test salt before you add any, and put the result into the "Now" column of Pool Math, to then determine how much to add. Don't assume salt is zero.
I wish CSI was higher. Are you actively pushing pH down, with MA? If so, let it come up. 7.7 or 7.8 should give you a near zero CSI. See if your TA stabilizes at that pH.
Be sure to test salt before you add any, and put the result into the "Now" column of Pool Math, to then determine how much to add. Don't assume salt is zero.
York: Thanks for that reminder, I'm going to put that in my calendar. I will probably do a salt test in the next couple days just to see what pMath recommends. The PB was supposed to add the salt when that time comes (let him pay the cost of that product) but I know they will not use any serious calculator to determine the quantity of salt that is needed.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,874
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Did we go over the best way to bring up your salt level for SWG, way back when? You want to end up with as little salt as necessary to run the SWG. We can go over that if you like. Don't let the PB add the salt! Just tell him how many bags you want him to drop off, and that you'll "save him the trouble" of mixing it in. You'll be doing both of you a favor.
Exceeding the recommended range for FC (based on your CYA level) will only help to burn it off faster. But protecting the low end of the FC range is more important than exceeding the high, so do what'cha gotta do for that.
With your ability, and willingness, to test pH everyday, there's no reason not to shoot for a CSI of 0. Pushing the lower end of the range gets you that much closer to "etching territory." When the SWG comes online, it's -0.3 to 0. Why not target -1.5? Not obsessively, just target the midpoint (by manipulating pH) and let it settle within that range.
7.8 is not too high. And targeting lower might be a losing battle. CSI is more important than pH when it comes to pool health, as long as pH is within range, and 7.8 is within range.
As you continue your battle with rising pH, you'll start to notice that your pH will want to settle in the high 7s, especially when you go SWG. Let it. Forcing it down to some arbitrary lower number will only make it snap back to high 7s that much faster. What I've found in my pool is that dosing down to 7.6 and letting it rise back up to 7.8, or 7.9 doesn't happen all that much faster than if I push it down to 7.2. Going down to 7.2 only messes with my CSI, like it does yours...
Exceeding the recommended range for FC (based on your CYA level) will only help to burn it off faster. But protecting the low end of the FC range is more important than exceeding the high, so do what'cha gotta do for that.
With your ability, and willingness, to test pH everyday, there's no reason not to shoot for a CSI of 0. Pushing the lower end of the range gets you that much closer to "etching territory." When the SWG comes online, it's -0.3 to 0. Why not target -1.5? Not obsessively, just target the midpoint (by manipulating pH) and let it settle within that range.
7.8 is not too high. And targeting lower might be a losing battle. CSI is more important than pH when it comes to pool health, as long as pH is within range, and 7.8 is within range.
As you continue your battle with rising pH, you'll start to notice that your pH will want to settle in the high 7s, especially when you go SWG. Let it. Forcing it down to some arbitrary lower number will only make it snap back to high 7s that much faster. What I've found in my pool is that dosing down to 7.6 and letting it rise back up to 7.8, or 7.9 doesn't happen all that much faster than if I push it down to 7.2. Going down to 7.2 only messes with my CSI, like it does yours...
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,874
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Have you considered IntellipH? One of my rationals: why wait? Even if its usefulness will eventually diminish (as the plaster cures), it'll still be of some help, and why not take advantage of how very helpful it can be during this high-acid-demand period of a new pool's curing process. Something to consider...
Let's face it, you live in high TA water territory, you've got an SWG, a pebble pool, a spill over and water features. Adding MA regularly is in your future, like, forever most likely.
Let's face it, you live in high TA water territory, you've got an SWG, a pebble pool, a spill over and water features. Adding MA regularly is in your future, like, forever most likely.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,460
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I want to echo being on the lower side of the salinity for your SWCG. As we do not lose water from our pools (overflow, backwash, etc) salinity builds up until we have to drain for calcium. I started my salinity at 3000 ppm July 2017 when I last exchanged for fresh water. My salinity is now 3500 ppm. From muriatic acid and the salt in the fill water.
Do target higher pH for now as your TA is low. It takes a lot less acid to go from 8 to 7.6 versus 7.8 to 7.4
Once things stablize, especially next summer, you will find you may have to run a lower pH and add acid frequently to keep your TA under control. With evaporation, your fill water will raise your TA pretty quickly.
Do target higher pH for now as your TA is low. It takes a lot less acid to go from 8 to 7.6 versus 7.8 to 7.4
Once things stablize, especially next summer, you will find you may have to run a lower pH and add acid frequently to keep your TA under control. With evaporation, your fill water will raise your TA pretty quickly.
Dirk - Marty, great info there. Thanks for watching out for me.
I did follow your intellipH journey Dirk, it's not in our near future ... but maybe in a year or two.
I'll start looking more closely at the CSI. Which tests do I need to do to get an accurate CSI? Or do I need to preform all of them?
Cuz I could not wait, I started a new Sample Salt pool in pMath, used my last test results, then tested for salt - 600. Using the Ideal Salt Level on Pentair's SWG of 3600ppm, that calculates to add six 40lb bags + 3 pounds.
I'm thinking that it might be good to set the target lower, maybe to 3000 and retest after a couple of days after the salt is added. I do remember when the PB did the conversion to salt the last time, they set the sanitizing output to 50%. After a day or two the FC was way high and I keep lowering the output until the FC was inline with the recommended levels. I know that the filter run time and speed also contribute to the chlorine output.
I'll start reading up on the forums here to educate (re educate
myself, then come back with questions.
Thanks again!
I did follow your intellipH journey Dirk, it's not in our near future ... but maybe in a year or two.
I'll start looking more closely at the CSI. Which tests do I need to do to get an accurate CSI? Or do I need to preform all of them?
Cuz I could not wait, I started a new Sample Salt pool in pMath, used my last test results, then tested for salt - 600. Using the Ideal Salt Level on Pentair's SWG of 3600ppm, that calculates to add six 40lb bags + 3 pounds.
I'm thinking that it might be good to set the target lower, maybe to 3000 and retest after a couple of days after the salt is added. I do remember when the PB did the conversion to salt the last time, they set the sanitizing output to 50%. After a day or two the FC was way high and I keep lowering the output until the FC was inline with the recommended levels. I know that the filter run time and speed also contribute to the chlorine output.
I'll start reading up on the forums here to educate (re educate
myself, then come back with questions.Thanks again!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,874
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
CSI is a result of some math on the following: pH, TA, CH, CYA, Borates, Water Temp and Salt. But you don't need to test each every time to get your CSI number. Pool Math will use your last test result. For example, pH from today, TA and CH from last week, CYA from a month ago, whatever. Obviously, the "fresher" the result the better, but for levels that don't change all that often, they don't need retesting all that often.
You can learn a lot about CSI by playing with its calculator in Pool Math. Have you found that? When you first open the calculator, all the fields will be filled in with your most recent test result, with your CSI at the bottom. But you can alter the numbers (without affecting test results elsewhere), just to see how CSI is affected. Add a few points to pH and see what happens. Raise or lower the other entries, too, to see how they all interact with CSI. That helped me out a lot in figuring out what to monitor and adjust for CSI.
Do not add salt to get to 3600, or anywhere close. Maybe not even 3000. I might start at 2400. Remember, your salt test could be off by as much as 400ppm. And so could the SWG, though not necessarily in the same direction. An IC40 will turn on at 2800 (I think). But it's rather crude internal salt test might think the water 2400, or 3200. Likewise, you might test with your Taylor kit and get 2800, which could also be 3200 or 2400! Conceivably, you could add salt to 3000 (actual), but Taylor says it's 3200, so you think you have enough. But the SWG is saying it's 2600, so won't start up. Or any number of scenarios, you get the point. All that really matters is if the SWG will fire up. So add 1800ppm of salt to bring your 600 to 2400ppm, let it mix in for at least a day, and then see if the SWG will fire. If it does, you're done. If it won't, then add another bag, wait another day or two, then try again. Lather, rinse, repeat. Be patient. Eventually you'll know how little of salt your SWG needs, and that's what you measure with the Taylor kit. It won't matter if the test result is off or not, you'll know what number your SWG needs relative to what your Taylor kit reads. The actual numbers don't matter, only what your SWG and test kit think they are. I know, weird, but that's how it works with salt and a Pentair SWG.
I'll save how to set up your SWG output for the next episode of "How Dirk Can Go On!" Same Dirk-time, same Dirk-channel!
You can learn a lot about CSI by playing with its calculator in Pool Math. Have you found that? When you first open the calculator, all the fields will be filled in with your most recent test result, with your CSI at the bottom. But you can alter the numbers (without affecting test results elsewhere), just to see how CSI is affected. Add a few points to pH and see what happens. Raise or lower the other entries, too, to see how they all interact with CSI. That helped me out a lot in figuring out what to monitor and adjust for CSI.
Do not add salt to get to 3600, or anywhere close. Maybe not even 3000. I might start at 2400. Remember, your salt test could be off by as much as 400ppm. And so could the SWG, though not necessarily in the same direction. An IC40 will turn on at 2800 (I think). But it's rather crude internal salt test might think the water 2400, or 3200. Likewise, you might test with your Taylor kit and get 2800, which could also be 3200 or 2400! Conceivably, you could add salt to 3000 (actual), but Taylor says it's 3200, so you think you have enough. But the SWG is saying it's 2600, so won't start up. Or any number of scenarios, you get the point. All that really matters is if the SWG will fire up. So add 1800ppm of salt to bring your 600 to 2400ppm, let it mix in for at least a day, and then see if the SWG will fire. If it does, you're done. If it won't, then add another bag, wait another day or two, then try again. Lather, rinse, repeat. Be patient. Eventually you'll know how little of salt your SWG needs, and that's what you measure with the Taylor kit. It won't matter if the test result is off or not, you'll know what number your SWG needs relative to what your Taylor kit reads. The actual numbers don't matter, only what your SWG and test kit think they are. I know, weird, but that's how it works with salt and a Pentair SWG.
I'll save how to set up your SWG output for the next episode of "How Dirk Can Go On!" Same Dirk-time, same Dirk-channel!
I love the DIRK channel!
Your paragraph starting with "Do not add salt to get to..." is awesome. I now remember reading many, many (MANY) months ago about the differences in the Taylor salt test and what the salt cell says.
The journey continues ...
Your paragraph starting with "Do not add salt to get to..." is awesome. I now remember reading many, many (MANY) months ago about the differences in the Taylor salt test and what the salt cell says.
The journey continues ...
What I am really loving is how you have such a firm idea on all of this..........when the journey first started there is no way you would have a clue about CSI! Look at you now........."I will keep a closer eye on CSI" 
Also play with how the water temp affects the CSI. Very surprise info there.
Kim
(The Dirk channel is one of the best out there!)
Also play with how the water temp affects the CSI. Very surprise info there.
Kim
(The Dirk channel is one of the best out there!)
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,874
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It's important to be patient when adding salt in this way. Your SWG can handle it when salt is too low or too high (for the most part), but does not react well to both back to back! You must be certain the salt is well mixed before you attempt to see if the SWG will fire. If the salt is not mixed in well, and a big chunk of very salty water flows through it, followed by fresh water, etc, etc, all life will cease to exist. Actually, I don't know the what or why of it, just not to do it. So when adding salt, run the pump non-stop at a decent clip for at least a day before trying the SWG...
1 - Put the estimated salt in, run pump 36hrs at around 2500 rpms, brushing the bottom of the pool to get the salt mixed.
2 - After 36 hrs, test with Taylor K-1766 to see if it registers 2400ppm. If so, turn the Sanitation Level to 50% in Screen Logic, wait ?? minutes to see if the Green/Good Salt Level light comes on at the SWG. If not, turn the Sanitation Level back to zero, add another 40lbs of salt wait another 36 hrs and re test with Taylor K-1766.
Does that sound right?
2 - After 36 hrs, test with Taylor K-1766 to see if it registers 2400ppm. If so, turn the Sanitation Level to 50% in Screen Logic, wait ?? minutes to see if the Green/Good Salt Level light comes on at the SWG. If not, turn the Sanitation Level back to zero, add another 40lbs of salt wait another 36 hrs and re test with Taylor K-1766.
Does that sound right?
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,874
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yep. It takes a couple minutes for the IC to run its diagnostics and measure temp and salt level. You'll see the lights flash for a while, then it'll settle in and give you the green light (literally) or not.
Here's the tricky part, as it happened to me. If your SWG does not fire, you're going to continue to add salt. But at some point you might have to call it. This from the Pentair manual:
So Pentair expects 3600ppm but cautions the unit will shut down below 2600 ppm. Elsewhere the manual states you won't get a green light unless the salt is higher than 2800ppm, and that generation suffers a bit, lower than 2800.
I interpreted this to mean the SWG will not produce chlorine unless the salt is at least 2800ppm or above, at start up, but once started will shut down if salt drop below 2600ppm. And the manual also admits that the unit can't test salt more accurately than ±500 (not 400 as I stated earlier). That's pretty bad. So the thing might startup if the actual level of salt is as low as 2300! And might not start up unless the salt is as high as 3300 ppm. And I learned from Pentair support that the salt testing gets worse as the water gets colder. I believe 70° is where Pentair expects best accuracy. This is probably why Pentair recommends 3600ppm, so that no matter how far off the SWG's test of salt is, the thing will still fire and they won't get a support call! It also compensates for water temp. The colder the water, the worse the salt generation performance, so a little extra salt will keep the ol' ball rolling.
So... back to the tricky part. If you use both Pool Math and the Taylor kit to determine you've got 3300 ppm of salt, at 70° or above, which even at the SWG's worst accuracy rating would mean the salt is at least 2800ppm, and the thing still won't fire, what to do? If you call Pentair support, they're going to first ask you about water temp. Then when you say "higher than 70°" they're going to tell you to add more salt. Which you can try. But at some point you might find out that no amount of salt is going to solve it, because the unit is defective (as mine was right out of the box), and now you've got a pool with too much salt, which you can't do anything about (short of replacing water). At some PPM you'll need to tell Pentair, "No, I have enough salt." and force them to send a tech out under warranty. Which is exactly how I handled it. I mentioned the Taylor kit and they caved.
The point was: add salt until the SWG fires up, but keep an eye on the level so that you don't add too much. Now the Taylor kit has its own accuracy challenges, so there's that. So use Pool Math and keep track of what you add. You're starting at 600, and that number is subject to margin of error, but not so the rest you add. If Pool Math tells you that adding X bags of salt will give you Y PPM of salt, then you know you have at least that. Add 600 to that, and if you start getting into the 3300 ppm range, especially if the Taylor kit confirms the ppm level, then you can start to suspect the SWG and consider a warranty call.
Didn't mean for you to worry, your SWG will be fine (it's already worked once for you, right?). Just cautioning not to trust it completely.
Here's the tricky part, as it happened to me. If your SWG does not fire, you're going to continue to add salt. But at some point you might have to call it. This from the Pentair manual:
So Pentair expects 3600ppm but cautions the unit will shut down below 2600 ppm. Elsewhere the manual states you won't get a green light unless the salt is higher than 2800ppm, and that generation suffers a bit, lower than 2800.
I interpreted this to mean the SWG will not produce chlorine unless the salt is at least 2800ppm or above, at start up, but once started will shut down if salt drop below 2600ppm. And the manual also admits that the unit can't test salt more accurately than ±500 (not 400 as I stated earlier). That's pretty bad. So the thing might startup if the actual level of salt is as low as 2300! And might not start up unless the salt is as high as 3300 ppm. And I learned from Pentair support that the salt testing gets worse as the water gets colder. I believe 70° is where Pentair expects best accuracy. This is probably why Pentair recommends 3600ppm, so that no matter how far off the SWG's test of salt is, the thing will still fire and they won't get a support call! It also compensates for water temp. The colder the water, the worse the salt generation performance, so a little extra salt will keep the ol' ball rolling.
So... back to the tricky part. If you use both Pool Math and the Taylor kit to determine you've got 3300 ppm of salt, at 70° or above, which even at the SWG's worst accuracy rating would mean the salt is at least 2800ppm, and the thing still won't fire, what to do? If you call Pentair support, they're going to first ask you about water temp. Then when you say "higher than 70°" they're going to tell you to add more salt. Which you can try. But at some point you might find out that no amount of salt is going to solve it, because the unit is defective (as mine was right out of the box), and now you've got a pool with too much salt, which you can't do anything about (short of replacing water). At some PPM you'll need to tell Pentair, "No, I have enough salt." and force them to send a tech out under warranty. Which is exactly how I handled it. I mentioned the Taylor kit and they caved.
The point was: add salt until the SWG fires up, but keep an eye on the level so that you don't add too much. Now the Taylor kit has its own accuracy challenges, so there's that. So use Pool Math and keep track of what you add. You're starting at 600, and that number is subject to margin of error, but not so the rest you add. If Pool Math tells you that adding X bags of salt will give you Y PPM of salt, then you know you have at least that. Add 600 to that, and if you start getting into the 3300 ppm range, especially if the Taylor kit confirms the ppm level, then you can start to suspect the SWG and consider a warranty call.
Didn't mean for you to worry, your SWG will be fine (it's already worked once for you, right?). Just cautioning not to trust it completely.
Again GREAT info.
In reviewing the manual (pg7) and on the actual unit, it says what the solid green and flashing green indicate, but either does mention anything as to how the red light discerns the difference between Low Salt and Very Low Salt. I spoke with Pentair and the best I got from them is if the red light comes on ... test the water for its salt level.
IntelliChlor SCG checks the pool salinity water daily and displays the levels as follows:
1)
— Green LED:Good salt. The pool water salt level is between 2800ppm and 4500.
— Green LED (Flashing): Salt level is above 4500 ppm. The salt level is high which increases the risk of corrosion and deterioration of pool equipment and surfaces in and around the pool.
2)
Red LED:Low salt. The water salt level is below 2800 ppm. The IntelliChlor SCG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency. It is highly recommended to add salt. See (*) Note below.
Red LED: Very low salt. The water salt level has fallen below 2600ppm. The IntelliChlor SCG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The IntelliChlor SCG is OFF. See (*)
Note below.NOTE (*): After every salt addition, pump should be allowed to run for at least 24 hours for proper dilution. Salinity readings should only be taken, after the dilution period.
In reviewing the manual (pg7) and on the actual unit, it says what the solid green and flashing green indicate, but either does mention anything as to how the red light discerns the difference between Low Salt and Very Low Salt. I spoke with Pentair and the best I got from them is if the red light comes on ... test the water for its salt level.
IntelliChlor SCG checks the pool salinity water daily and displays the levels as follows:
1)
— Green LED:Good salt. The pool water salt level is between 2800ppm and 4500.
— Green LED (Flashing): Salt level is above 4500 ppm. The salt level is high which increases the risk of corrosion and deterioration of pool equipment and surfaces in and around the pool.
2)
Red LED:Low salt. The water salt level is below 2800 ppm. The IntelliChlor SCG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency. It is highly recommended to add salt. See (*) Note below.
Red LED: Very low salt. The water salt level has fallen below 2600ppm. The IntelliChlor SCG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The IntelliChlor SCG is OFF. See (*)
Note below.NOTE (*): After every salt addition, pump should be allowed to run for at least 24 hours for proper dilution. Salinity readings should only be taken, after the dilution period.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,874
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I thought I noticed the same thing, when reviewing the LED patterns before addressing your questions. I think it works like this: if the RED LED is on, and you have generation occurring, then that indicates "low," but technically enough, at least for diminished generation. Time to add salt. If RED and no generation, then that presumably means "very low." Ah, Pentair! It doesn't really matter, you add salt until the light is off, either way. One caveat, another "nicety" of the Pentair indicators, which stumped me at first: the light that indicates generation, which I mistook as general status, only shines green while the unit is actually producing chlorine, otherwise it's off, which doesn't indicate a problem as I first thought. So, for example, if you have your output set for 50%, then that light will be green only 50% of the time. You'd have to watch the dern thing for quite a while to determine if you have both a red low salt light and generation occurring! Not much help. There is no light that stays green all the time to mean "everything is OK," just red or blinking or off lights to indicate something is amiss. You get the hang of it after a while, but it's not especially intuitive. For $500 you'd think we could get a little better system, a text display or something...
Ironically, I get that with the IntellipH, which gives me text status of both the IpH and the IC, in rotating screens of info on it's little display.
Obscure Tip: I get SWG status in the pool! When generating, my SWG sends little bubbles of hydrogen out of the returns. When I see the bubbles while I'm swimming or walking by, I know my SWG is on the job! No bubbles, of course, means nothing. But at least some of the time I know I'm good-to-go!
Ironically, I get that with the IntellipH, which gives me text status of both the IpH and the IC, in rotating screens of info on it's little display.
Obscure Tip: I get SWG status in the pool! When generating, my SWG sends little bubbles of hydrogen out of the returns. When I see the bubbles while I'm swimming or walking by, I know my SWG is on the job! No bubbles, of course, means nothing. But at least some of the time I know I'm good-to-go!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,874
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
A screenshot of the SWG page of my ScreenLogic app. Explains the logic behind the red LED. Just as 45% output is represented on the SWG unit itself with an LED that can only indicate 40%, the two low salt ranges are indicated by a single red LED. The IC can't offer all of its functionality via the onboard interface either. Pentair often makes interface design decisions that favor those that buy their automation solutions, and offers only "bare bones" to the rest.
What the red LED is really indicating is: go look at your ScreenLogic app to see what's actually going on...
A few Updates and Questions. Still waiting for an inspector to come by and sign off on the Patio/electrical. The PB (who wants his final payment sooo bad, just waits for me to tell him the inspector never showed 3 days ago. I imagine I'll remind the PB there are other things that remain to get fixed.
Which brings me to an old issue - The deck jets leak even when they have been off for weeks. I've taken them apart to expose the inner container (well) so I can clearly see when water starts leaking and filling the deck jet "well", and preform some tests.
1 - I turned off the 3 ball valves that feed the jets and after 2 days had zero increase in the water level inside the well. The main pump ran 6 hours each day.
2- I tested again, opened one deck jet valve, but this time I turned the pool pump OFF (this pump is also used when using the deck jets). Hours later not a drop of water entered the deck jet well.
3 - Next, everything in test two was the same - except I put the pump in Spa Mode and ran it for an hour - still no water in the wells.
3- Last test. Same as test 2, but this time I put the pump in pool mode and the well started to fill with water in 20 minutes.
So this leads me to believe the one Jandy valve the PB did install is not fully closing when the deck jet feature in in the off position and in pool mode. We'll see what the PB thinks.
Next, Spa level goes down 6" when vacuuming, manually and the pool level increases. I've seen this happen just a few times and can't figure out the reason. I use the skimmer port to connect the hose to. I have noticed that the hose somewhat collapses inside the skimmer - not sure if that may be the reason or the pump is at too high of a speed. Hmm, I just checked and remember I upped it a couple weeks ago to the max (3450 rpms). But I think these issues happened even before that. My filters were cleaned less than a month ago, and the pressure was 10 to 12 psi the first wee after cleaning, currently at 10.
I read this possibility from JasonLion ... "... Spa leaking down is almost invariable caused by a problem with either the check valve or one of the three way valves." in this thread. Though vacuuming was not a component in the OP question.
Which brings me to an old issue - The deck jets leak even when they have been off for weeks. I've taken them apart to expose the inner container (well) so I can clearly see when water starts leaking and filling the deck jet "well", and preform some tests.
1 - I turned off the 3 ball valves that feed the jets and after 2 days had zero increase in the water level inside the well. The main pump ran 6 hours each day.
2- I tested again, opened one deck jet valve, but this time I turned the pool pump OFF (this pump is also used when using the deck jets). Hours later not a drop of water entered the deck jet well.
3 - Next, everything in test two was the same - except I put the pump in Spa Mode and ran it for an hour - still no water in the wells.
3- Last test. Same as test 2, but this time I put the pump in pool mode and the well started to fill with water in 20 minutes.
So this leads me to believe the one Jandy valve the PB did install is not fully closing when the deck jet feature in in the off position and in pool mode. We'll see what the PB thinks.
Next, Spa level goes down 6" when vacuuming, manually and the pool level increases. I've seen this happen just a few times and can't figure out the reason. I use the skimmer port to connect the hose to. I have noticed that the hose somewhat collapses inside the skimmer - not sure if that may be the reason or the pump is at too high of a speed. Hmm, I just checked and remember I upped it a couple weeks ago to the max (3450 rpms). But I think these issues happened even before that. My filters were cleaned less than a month ago, and the pressure was 10 to 12 psi the first wee after cleaning, currently at 10.
I read this possibility from JasonLion ... "... Spa leaking down is almost invariable caused by a problem with either the check valve or one of the three way valves." in this thread. Though vacuuming was not a component in the OP question.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,460
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Sounds to me like the actuators on your deck jet valve and your spa suction are both not set to fully close their respective valves. The cams need adjusting most likely.
The hose collapse is from the pump running at too high rpm. Lower the rpm for vac and see what happens.
The hose collapse is from the pump running at too high rpm. Lower the rpm for vac and see what happens.
I forgot to update on my chemistry numbers. WOW. My FC now fluctuates between 3 and 6, AND I'm adding MUCH less chlorine. And my pH is settling between 7.5 and 7.8, my MA addition has also been greatly reduced. CSI has been ranging between -.23 to +.20. But many of the past readings have been between -.04 to +.05.
FC: 5.5
CC: 0
pH: 7.8
TA: 50
CH: 340
CYA: 30
Temp: 74
CSI: -.04