New AGP owner and don’t know what I did wrong

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T

Thatguyjo

0
Jul 23, 2018
11
Palmdale
Hi Guys/ Gals at TFP.
I recently purchased a 20’ x48” circle vinyl pool around early June and things were great. I bought test strips and some chemicals from my local Lowe’s (probably bad idea according to my pool store) and things were going fine. I kept the water clear and sparkling for weeks till sometime last weekend. I was still using the test strips and said my PH, TA were high. It dropped using Clorex PH down and everything was fine for a bit.
Gave it a shock with same brand shock, to raise the FC and TC a bit since they were on the low side and boom cloudy pool. Water went from visible to can’t see anything down below. This is really upsetting since it’s gonna be hot now and my kid wants to jump in.
According to my local pool store it’s the “Phosphates” that are causing me to get cloudy water. I went with there methods for a couple days to make the water more manageable but for the sake of it, it still won’t clear up.
These are the very last analysis report I got from them:

FC:1
TC:1
CH:200
CYA:60
TA:120
pH:7.4
Pho:500

now I did a retest this morning with my equipment (equivalent to Taylor k2006)
and got
FC:0
TC:1
pH:7.4
TA:150
CH:500? Wouldn’t read right
Cya: 80ish-90ish

Any help would greatly be appreciated
-jo
 
With a CYA of 90ish easiest thing is to drain the water and refill and start fresh with TFP methods. Just leave one foot of water and refill.
 
C31D2B09-75A6-4B6F-8837-E94F8D2F42A1.jpg

Afraid to drain and refil, I redid my test.
this is the test I got. They said it was similar to the Taylor K-2006

FC:0
TC:2
CC:2
Ph:7.4
TA:150
CH:200
CYA:50

could year better and take my time that the kids are asleep lol.

I also downloaded the Pool school book and was checking the ABCs of pool chemistry.



-jo
 
I do not see the R-0870 powder in your test kit. Can you test FC above 10 ppm? Do you use a powder to turn the sample pink and then drops to clear for your FC test?

The kit appears to be a K2005. If so, you need a FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test
 
You need to get an accurate CYA reading. This lets you know how much FC you need to maintain in the pool.

For what it's worth, your FC levels are way too low. Error on the side of being aggressive with the chlorine until you get a good CYA test result. Your first test was like 60ppm, then the second test was 90ppm, and then back down to 50ppm for the final test. You need a more accurate, more consistent result to be sure.

You can work with a CYA of 50-60.. it'll be much harder to work with a CYA of 90.

From the information you provide, you have about 10,000 gallons of water. Use this figure and the pool math calculator to determine how much bleach you need to add to your pool to maintain a FC count that is closer to 8 to 10 ppm as opposed to the 0 or 1 you have now. Swimming in a pool with FC levels less than the minimum levels required (per your CYA level) is dangerous and not a good idea.

When using the pool math app, be sure you know which strength of bleach your going to use. Most "cleaning" or "household" bleaches are 6 to 8.5%..... and most of the pool chlorinating liquids are 10%. You may also be able to find 12.5% liquid chlorine in your area. For a pool as small as 10,000 gallons... regular ole 6% house hold cleaning bleach should do just fine. The walmart pool chlorinating liquid (or lowes / home depot equivalent) also work. They are 10%. Just be sure to factor in which you dump in when your using the pool math calculator.
 
Lots of knowledge there getreal720...are you in the industry by chance? Just curios and welcome to TFP!
 
@ctrav

I am not in the pool industry, I am just a fellow pool owner who found his way to this site about a year ago. Lurked most of last season, and thanks to the great knowledge and even better people here I was able to easily maintain one great looking pool!

I have a natural love of the sciences, so pool water chemistry interests me. I also like paying it forward when I have the chance! :cool:
 
Outstanding and great attitude to bring to the forum! Your knowledge base on subjects is certainly above novice levels like me :) Have you considered paying it forward by donating to TFP? As you can see there are no adds here and lots of helpful folks on just about every subject. Plus we are trying real hard this month... Just a thought and no pressure!

How about updating your pool info and creating a signature?

Read This Before you Post


getreal720 said:
@ctrav

I am not in the pool industry, I am just a fellow pool owner who found his way to this site about a year ago. Lurked most of last season, and thanks to the great knowledge and even better people here I was able to easily maintain one great looking pool!

I have a natural love of the sciences, so pool water chemistry interests me. I also like paying it forward when I have the chance! :cool:
Click to expand...
 

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mknauss said:
I do not see the R-0870 powder in your test kit. Can you test FC above 10 ppm? Do you use a powder to turn the sample pink and then drops to clear for your FC test?

The kit appears to be a K2005. If so, you need a FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test
Click to expand...


Oh oh that is correct. It is equivalent to the K2005 seeing as it doesn’t have the FAS/DPD test, D’oh. As of today the pool will be draining and hopefully it will be setup by this weekend.


getreal720 said:
You need to get an accurate CYA reading. This lets you know how much FC you need to maintain in the pool.....
Click to expand...

True that was one thing I had trouble with was the CYA test. At the store it was always low and when I did it myself it seemed high. I don’t like the tube with black dot for the test. Some times I can see the dot better in different spots, NOT LIGHTING, so that’s why I went with the higher end until the second test. Today I actually went to the pool store and they gave me a reading of 40CYA. :confused:

But as of today we are draining the pool and gonna end up cleaning and starting over. Rather pay the water bill then continue to be fooled be the pool store.

Now that I found this site, hopefully can same my wallet and pool.

-jo
 
Only chemicals you should need regularly is CYA, liquid chlorine/bleach (plain, unscented, no additives, not Clorox), and Muriatic Acid.

Test your fill water PH, TA & CH and you can get a good idea of what you need to do once your pool is refilled.
 
ajw22 said:
Only chemicals you should need regularly is CYA, liquid chlorine/bleach (plain, unscented, no additives, not Clorox), and Muriatic Acid.

Test your fill water PH, TA & CH and you can get a good idea of what you need to do once your pool is refilled.
Click to expand...

So those are the main chemicals I technically need to control all my pools chemistry huh.
What would be the best thing to do when I finish the refill? As of now the pool would be drained, cleaned and refilled. But I’m curious as to what to do once full. Excuse my ignorance but this is my very first big pool and would rather not drain/refill this anymore until maybe the end of season.

As for the bleach I have Walmart brand, 6% chlorine believe, unscented. Should be ok with that correct?

-jo
 
Add 30 ppm of CYA powder to the pool. Add the CYA by using what we call the sock method. Get an old sock (no holes) and put the measured amount of CYA you need. Tie the sock closed and either suspend it in front of a return (hang it from your brush pole works with something weighted on the deck) OR if it still allows flow thru the skimmer, place the sock in the skimmer. Every 15/20 minutes give the sock a squeeze to speed up the process. Please DO NOT follow the directions on the container of CYA to just pour it into the skimmer and don't just toss the sock in the pool as the CYA is acidic and can bleach/stain pool finishes.

Add your bleach to reach 3 ppm FC.

Test your pH and TA. If pH is not in the 7's, let us know. No action needed on TA.

Keep adding enough chlorine each day to follow [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Once the CYA powder is dissolved from the sock, wait 24 hours and test the CYA. Then add enough CYA powder again to reach 50 ppm total in the pool.
 
Marty got it all.

Test your FC daily until you get to know your pool. Keep your FC in the target levels and never let the FC fall below the minimum for your CYA. If your FC stays above the minimum you should not get algae and be trouble free.
 
Don’t try to rush the CYA results. I have found that brushing or stirring up the water along with squeezing the sock helps. Perhaps my pool is finicky but it has taken 3-5 days to get a true reading on CYA. Some if not most folks have a bit of a tough time with CYA testing. Patience works well :)
 
mknauss said:
Add 30 ppm of CYA powder to the pool. Add the CYA by using what we call the sock method. Get an old sock (no holes) and put the measured amount of CYA you need. Tie the sock closed and either suspend it in front of a return (hang it from your brush pole works with something weighted on the deck) OR if it still allows flow thru the skimmer, place the sock in the skimmer. Every 15/20 minutes give the sock a squeeze to speed up the process. Please DO NOT follow the directions on the container of CYA to just pour it into the skimmer and don't just toss the sock in the pool as the CYA is acidic and can bleach/stain pool finishes.

Add your bleach to reach 3 ppm FC.

Test your pH and TA. If pH is not in the 7's, let us know. No action needed on TA.

Keep adding enough chlorine each day to follow [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Once the CYA powder is dissolved from the sock, wait 24 hours and test the CYA. Then add enough CYA powder again to reach 50 ppm total in the pool.
Click to expand...

hey Marty, so I exactly what would be the beginning steps once the pool is filled with fresh water.
Pool is drained and gonna be filled tonight/ tomorrow morning.
You ask to add 30ppm of CYN powder to the pool. How would I know I’m adding that much? Also what is a good brand of CYN powder you recommend.

so step one: ADD CYN powder
step 2: check FC ppm, keep at 3ppm
step 3: check pH, above 7 good under ask question.
step 4: TA not to worry about that one
step 5: keep FC/CYA good and level(keep FC where it’s supposed to be even if CYA might not be there yet? Just go by 50 cya?)
step 6: check CYA level after sock dissolved. Add powder if not at 50ppm
step 7: pay water bill and hopefully swim?

does that sound about right?
LOL

-jo
 
Use PoolMath or Pool Math to determine how much product to use.

CYA powder (aka stabilizer, conditioner, etc) can be purchased at most Walmarts, Home Depot, Lowes. Or pool stores. Typically costs about $4 per pound.

Can you fill out a signature? See Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post. The information you provide can help us more easily assist you without asking the same questions over and over.

Follow the steps I provided - your summary looks good. And yes, follow the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]based on the amount of CYA that will be in the water.
 
Tft test kits has a standard solution for cya. (Already measured). 50ppm I think. You can use it to check yourself to get comfortable with your readings.
Kate if your reading high or low, erratic, etc. Also you can read your pool sample several times to average a bit too.
 

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