Opening pool - swamp :(

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jalexa101

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Jul 13, 2018
18
MA
Good Evening folks,

New here. New pool owner, 2nd year. Last year I had blue water, easy maintenance. This year, I opened the pool and the tarp had not been completely covering the pool, so a lot of debris ended up in there as well as low water levels.

I filled to half skim with well water. Added what the folks at the stores told me to add and I still have the same ugly mess I began with. Perhaps a little better since the pump has been on 24/7 and I've been cleaning it best I can. I believe most leaves are out but it's hard to tell.

I read up on alot of the posts and articles already so I'm very cautiously optimistic. I already purchased the TF-100 with XL and Magnetic Stir.

I know how to clean the filter and I have a vacuum. I added 121oz of Walmart 6% bleach until I get my kit (hopefully tomorrow or Monday). I have 9 on hand at the moment and will get more.

Attached (hopefully) are pics.

I will continue to peruse and hopefully I get some great guidance as I have seen from others. Thank you for everyone's time!

Joe
 

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Hello Joe and welcome! :wave: Great to have you with us, and even better to know you already have the TF-100 on its way. :goodjob: You'll see why when it arrives. By now after some TFP reading you know we don't promote a lot of pool store advice or chemicals, except perhaps muriatic acid, so having that bleach on hand is great. I am a bit concerned about that green tint and the fact you are on a well. Hopefully the iron content isn't through the roof. Time will tell. For now, just keep doing what you're doing until the TF-100 arrives and we'll help more from there. If you haven't seen our metals info, here is some for you:
Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains
If your fill water is from a well, more than likely you have (metals) iron in the water. There's no sense testing for iron in a pool once chlorine has been added because once you've added chlorine to the pool, it oxidizes nearly all the iron. If you want to have a test done, get a sample from the water source and take it to the pool store. Metals can change the water colors when chlorine is added, usually yellow, green (clear), or brown, and this can be complicated by the reflection of the water against the color of your pool surface (i.e. blue pool with yellow tint from metals = emerald green water). When iron is left untreated, it can settle and leave stains on the pool surfaces.

If you are not able to have fresh (non-well) water delivered, and are stuck with well water, then the more “pre-filtering” of iron you can do to physically remove it before treating chemically the better. Some folks have had decent success placing layers of dishrags, paper towels, or pillow batting in the skimmer to catch iron/rust particles. Others place socks, micro-filters, or other products over the garden hose as they fill from the water source to serve as a pre-filter.

There are other methods that can be tried such as manipulating FC/pH to try and separate the metal ions, followed by vacuuming and/or filtering-out the residual metal from the main filter media. But this process can be risky if the metal is allowed to rest on the pool surfaces and may cause staining if not watched closely.

Your best and most reliable method of metals management is to add sequestrant to the water and replenish it periodically. Sequestrant is a chemical that binds to the iron in the water so that it can't form stains or turn brown. Sequestrant breaks down slowly, so you need to add more regularly. ProTeam's Metal Magic and Jack's Magic the Pink Stuff (regular), the Blue Stuff (fresh plaster), and the Purple Stuff (SWG) are some of the top sequestrants. You can also find other brands with similar products, some of which are noticeably less expensive. Sequestrants based on HEDP, phosphonic acid, or phosphonic acid derivatives are the most effective.
Click to expand...
 
Texas Splash said:
Hello Joe and welcome! :wave: Great to have you with us, and even better to know you already have the TF-100 on its way. :goodjob: You'll see why when it arrives. By now after some TFP reading you know we don't promote a lot of pool store advice or chemicals, except perhaps muriatic acid, so having that bleach on hand is great. I am a bit concerned about that green tint and the fact you are on a well. Hopefully the iron content isn't through the roof. Time will tell. For now, just keep doing what you're doing until the TF-100 arrives and we'll help more from there. If you haven't seen our metals info, here is some for you:
Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply. Understood and very transparent. After the lack of success with the local stores I said I need to find a forum where I can learn to do this myself. It doesn't take much to realize the wallet is being skimmed by inexperienced folks or you're being given a canned response all the while we all have different setups and issues to take care of. I tend to try and be a DIY'er, admittedly, I didn't realize what I was undertaking and well, here we are.

I know the strips are discouraged here, I dont know if you feel in at the very least, they can give a ballpark idea or just dont use them, period.

I think my PH is high, alkalinity high, FC present, CC zero by what I remember on the last strip. In any event, I'm not putting much stock into that.

Should I still be keeping my pump running 24/7 while I wait for the kit?
 
So, apparently the kit will be delivered tomorrow. - I have numerous chemicals that the previous owners left. I will share some or a pic in case they are applicable?

I also will have about 6 jugs left of bleach. - my plan is to buy 10 more unless I should be shooting higher?

I calculated my pool size water to be about 15200 according to PoolMath. It's probably less as the bottom does slope from perimeter to the middle and it never goes above my neck in the middle, I'm 5'8". If we need to get this in as close as humanly possible, then perimeter will be easy to measure depth but middle, not so much :(
 
Welcome to the forum!

If that is 6% bleach, you will need more with that size pool and that green. Sounds like some of the green could be iron but some is algae.

Your pool volume you show is good for now. I doubt it is off by 10% or more. If it appears to be an issue there are testing methods to narrow down the water volume.
 
mknauss said:
Welcome to the forum!

If that is 6% bleach, you will need more with that size pool and that green. Sounds like some of the green could be iron but some is algae.

Your pool volume you show is good for now. I doubt it is off by 10% or more. If it appears to be an issue there are testing methods to narrow down the water volume.
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It is 6%, Walmart brand. 16 jugs won't be enough or the 6 I have on hand? I figured 6 would not be enough, agreed. 16, wasn't sure.

I also agree I could have some type of mineral issue or variable to deal with since I used well water. I considered buying the water but then started to price it out and thought otherwise.

TY for the reply.
 
You will need more bleach at 6% strength. We do not know your CYA yet so that will determine somewhat your chlorine needs. Not sure what you pay for it but you might start looking for 10% or 12.5% and see if it is cheaper per ounce of active chlorine.
 
Wife just texted that the kit is in! Unfortunately, I'm here at work, won't be able to check values until ~7:30-8pm EST, and that's not reading instructions. I may have to wait until tomorrow.

I also bought HD HDX bleach at 8.25% and have 14 total jugs of Walmart 6% and HDX 8.25 -

Ocean State Job does have shock at 12.25 I believe for the same price. Do I just need to make sure its cal hypo?
 
From members whom use Ocean States liquid chlorine they are satisfied. It is 12.5% sodium hypochlorite.
 

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So, I read the kit instructions. It says, any questions, come here, LOL - Love it. Today, this afternoon, we're supposed have a thunderstorm watch so most likely I'll get to testing tomorrow after work.

Dumb question: am I just following the instructions on the card and then report back here?

I need to do some more research as there's some reagents in there that I am unfamiliar with and not sure when to use what/when.
 
So the testing is done. I did it slowly, carefully, and feel confident I didn't screw anything up:

PH - 8.2
CYA - 0
Calcium -125
FC - 1.5
TA - 90
CC - 1.5

I'm assuming the first step is to drop the Ph? Muriatic Acid? Trip to home depot? LOL

FYI - I have chemicals from old owners - I have PH Decreaser, says 92% sodium bisulphate, 8% inert ingredients.
 
Marty's offline so I'll chime in. Yes, lower the pH to about 7.2 first. Muriatic acid (31.5%) is my favorite. Go in stages carefully, re-testing in about 30 minutes if needed, as to not go too low. Even if you hit 7.0 that's doable. At the same time, you should have a sock soaking to raise the CYA to "30". (see below). Then increase the FC to "12" and that is your SLAM/Shock level. Maintain that FC of 12 until you pass all 3 criteria on the SLAM Process page. Good luck!
Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
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Since I have these chemicals left over - 'PH Decreaser' - sodium bisulfate is apparently dry acid - Can/should I use that since I have it? I'm willing to do either.

Also the CYA, where am I getting that? I have some 'Conditioner' from the old owners as well. - LOL, It appears they left me a little of everything for every little task.
 
You can use the dry acid if you like. Just do not buy anymore of it. Use muriatic acid. It is cheaper and does not add sulfates to your water.

Conditioner should be CYA. Read the container. Should be Cyanuric Acid. Nothing else.
 
mknauss said:
You can use the dry acid if you like. Just do not buy anymore of it. Use muriatic acid. It is cheaper and does not add sulfates to your water.

Conditioner should be CYA. Read the container. Should be Cyanuric Acid. Nothing else.
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Do you suggest following bottle instructions or Pool calculator instructions?

My 24' pool, I am using 15200 gallons in my calculations - Ty for your help. Slowly but surely.
 
Ok- so past few days been trying to get my PH and CYA in check, here's where we're at on this Sat morning.

FC-8
TA-90
CYA-~20, cloudy but I can still see dot, I added a tad more conditioner
CC-5
PH-7.2-7.5
CH-150

Very much improved. I've been removing leaves and vacuuming. One one point (yesterday) I could see to the bottom - I removed as many leaves as I could and then brushed the algae on the bottom, good lord, there's alot.

So do I wait until we see the CYA come higher before SLAM'ing? Stoked I've seen some progress as it's better than none!
 

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