2 Underwater LED Lights and Lighting

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GreenTerrorPool

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2017
167
PALM BEACH GARDENS, FL
So we had a good lighting strike near my house in south Florida and now my (2) underwater LED lights dont work. Not sure if this was the cause as I had not run the lights for a long time. I have A GFCI at the electric panel that was NOT tripped. I tried to re set the breakerto the lights, but still no lights.

Any suggestions on how to see what the next step is?

thanks
 
Did you try to reset the GFI anyway? GFI's go bad as well so it is possible it is just ready to be replaced.
 
Yes I reset it. But, I just looked at it again. Do they make GFIs that have plugs for a standard plug in (like a radio) but those holes are blocked off so you can not plug things in. My GFI has a green light (i popped it to red, then reset and now green)
But those holes are blocked off. This may be a really stupid question. Thanks
 
GreenTerrorPool said:
Yes I reset it. But, I just looked at it again. Do they make GFIs that have plugs for a standard plug in (like a radio) but those holes are blocked off so you can not plug things in. My GFI has a green light (i popped it to red, then reset and now green)
But those holes are blocked off. This may be a really stupid question. Thanks
Click to expand...

They are outdoor (Weather Rated WR) GFI outlets. Those "blocks" will move out of the way if you plug something in. Try to plug something in and see if the outlet works. Are you sure that outlet is the one controlling the pool lights?
 
Troubleshooting further than this depends on your comfort level with electric. If it was me, I would remove the connection caps for the lights (after cutting power) and inspect for burning. Usually lights are on the tallest part of your electric under rectangular electrical boxes. If your lights had suffered a lightening strike, I would expect the GFI to have blown along with the circuit powering the GFI.
 
Hmm... ok it looks like your lights are not connected to the GFI but if the GFI trips, it will also cut power to the lights. It is possible that the 20 amp breaker for the lights has gone bad. They do from time to time.

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Also you say you are not using that timer but was it ever hooked to the lights? And if so, was that wiring removed at some point?
 

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Yes I believe the timer is hooked to lights and i was using it at beggning. but i just took the tabs off as i use the lights so little i would just manually flip the red switch to turn on when i wanted them.

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is there any type of switch/breaker in the black box that could go bad
 
I don't know much about mechanical timers, but I would bet that is your problem.

It is possible that the actual breaker is bad. Those 2 that are tied together one of them could have gone bad. Is it possible to remove the cap that ties them together so you can try to switch just the one that controls the light and see if it feels "spongy"?

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FYI: Given the new information I don't think anything is wrong under that electrical cap I would leave it alone for now. I would concentrate on the mechanical time or those 2 breakers tied together.
 
I turned off the master breaker in the house and looked some things. I didnt pull the breaker out of the box in the control box (past my expertise i guess) But the breakers appear to be OK. All looks good in this box, no burns or anything.
Is there a chance both bulbs burnt out under water. Im going under the water just to see if i can see any "burns" in the bulb

thanks
 
Again, this all goes to your comfort level with electrical but if it was me, I would remove that black plastic cap from the light tower and probe with a multi-meter to make sure power was at least getting to the lights. I am pretty sure that is the last junction before it goes to the actual light.
 
Yes that is the last junction. In the below pictures. How to set up multi meter correct and what selection should i make on the dial. Under the cap, what do i touch the leads to ? do i have to take the wire caps off, or can i touch something else?

I guess it wont let me upload any more photos
 
I think you'd set it to the 200 on the right (red or black I don't think it matters) and then test for 120 volts. You will remove the cap off the white and black wires. What I would suggest is you set the multimeter and then probe a regular electrical outlet to make sure you are seeing 120 volts. Then you can be sure it is set correctly. You may also need to move the connection leads over to the right side of the multi-meter.

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I think you use the V with the ~.
 
I assume green is ground and the 2 blacks one is hot and one is neutral. You should be able to remove those 2 white wire nuts and touch one multimeter lead to one and one to the other (doesn't matter what order). I am not sure what voltage the light is but if 120 volt, then you should read anywhere from 110 to 125 volts on the meter. Where you able to successfully test a regular outlet with the multimeter and see ~120 volts?

It is possible that both of those blacks are hot and this is working like a regular light switch where the switch interrupts the hot lead. In that case, touch one lead of the mutimeter to either of the 2 hots and the other to that ground bar.
 

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