New Pool Build and Backyard Remodel in Central California

Inline... me in black...

Ok, I'm assuming you're referring to the PL4 and/or PLS4. In that case, I'm good. I've got the standard EasyTouch 8 (#520540) panel.

Yes, I hate my PLS4. You've got the 8. Yay!

As for the water metering, that has been on my mind for many weeks now. At first I was considering buying one of the expensive in-line meters,

You can get a very good one for about $60.

lately I've been leaning towards the $15 variety at the hardware store and doing a few bucket tests to see how (in)accurate it is.

Still probably better than just trying to calculate the volume from dimensions.

The house water meter thing is probably an option (need to go look in the box out front to make sure) but I was concerned with household water usage skewing the numbers during the fill.

A typical street meter has a margin of error of about 1%. Some 1.5%. That number's going to be worse with your $15 solution. And about the same for the $60 solution. So you're never going to know exactly how much water you have. I wouldn't think filling a bucket a few times is going to get you anywhere. These meters probably vary the margin in other ways throughout the fill. So a random sample wouldn't account for much. I don't know, maybe it would. Doesn't matter: The margin of error on most of the tests (TF100 or Taylor) is about 10%, some are worse than that, so you only need to be so accurate anyway. You could use a lot of water in your house and still be OK. Or you can count showers and toilet flushes and subtract those from the meter reads and get a little closer. Avoiding laundry and dishwasher and landscape watering are easy enough to do for a day. Alternately, you can calculate your average daily use from a water bill, and just use house water normally and subtract the average number from your meter math. Or about 80 gallons per person per day (according to google). It's all same-same, and accurate enough to do your testing and dosing. The meter trick is only meant to combat dimension calc's, or guesses, which can be wildly off, up to 5K or more sometimes. My pool guys were watching me meter my pool and taking guesses: 10K to 18K was their "professional" estimate range!!

I know for certain though that I'm going to do something to measure it as I'd like to get as accurate a figure as I can for the chemical calculations. That kind of stuff is right up my alley.

Mine too, which is why I used a dedicated meter at the end of a hose. But, like I said, that only got me within 1% of my volume, which works out to ±123 gallons. Which is more water than I use in a day in my house! So should I have bothered?

In one of the posts you had mentioned the main water meter as a good solution because it allowed the use of multiple hoses. I was just reading through the fill/brushing instructions from my contractor and they sate that multiple hoses are OK if you have Pebble or white plaster, but to only use one hose if it is colored plaster.

First I heard of such a thing. If I had to guess... How long the water sits in any one place can affect the color relative to somewhere else. Which is why you don't want it dripping down your walls, or splashing or pooling anywhere longer than anywhere else. Maybe that's why. That by filling from two different locations might make one location a different color? I would think binding two or three hose ends together, and stuffing them all together into a sock would solve for that, if that's the reason.

I'm using colored Wet Edge Altima, so I'm guessing I fall into the colored plaster category. Not sure why they say this. Seems to me if both hose ends were kept under water, it shouldn't be a problem. I was however thinking of replacing my hose bib with a "Garden Valve" so I could increase my fill rate. Much bigger orifice inside the garden valve which should equate to a higher fill rate.

Yes and no. If I understand my plumbing physics, it's more about the run than about any pinch point. So behind that valve, is likely a 1/2" pipe. Maybe a 3/4" pipe. But likely less than than the water main pipe. So the water will "pinch" at the valve, but actually speed up there, too, so the volume isn't a whole lot less. It's the long run of pipe behind it, and the long run of hose in front of it, that affect the flow more than the valve (friction, I believe, is the bigger issue). So by using more than one hose, you're accessing more than one pipe, which will get you more volume. I'm still learning this stuff, but it's what I've come up with so far. (I was researching how crimp fittings vs push fittings affect flow through PEX plumbing. The consensus was the length of the PEX had more to do with the flow than the diameter of the fittings.)

Seems to me the faster the fill, the less likely you would be to get rings?

That seems perfectly logical to me. There are differing schools of thought about when to start the fill after the plaster is installed, but once the fill starts, the faster the better, I would think. And not just about rings. Pool plaster does not do well exposed to the air. So the less the better I say.

And don't worry Kim, I'll be getting back to the equipment pad, but at the moment my presence is being requested for a game of laser tag with my daughter who is home "sick" from school today...

Well, we all find ways to play hookie now and then. For some it's laser tag, others hang out on internet forums. Or so I've heard...
 
So, back to the equipment pad. From the very beginning (when I first started designing the pool with my salesperson), I had 4 requirements:

1. I wanted the plumbing on the back side of the pad so that I could completely hide everything behind a decorative wall.
2. I wanted room on the pad to frame up walls on 3 sides.
3. I wanted the sides angled so that they were parallel with my fence lines. This would help conceal the equipment and also give me corners to build shelving for storing supplies.
4. I wanted a 2ft x 2ft clear space on the pad to place my Chlorine Genie.

I discussed this with the salesperson, I discussed it with the contractor, and I discussed it with the crew when they started laying out the plumbing. For some reason, nobody seemed to be able to tell me exactly how much room my equipment was going to take up. I think the size that I had originally decided upon with the salesperson was probably pretty close. My contractor looked at the initial drawings and determined that the pad was way too big and he shrunk it down considerably. I didn't know any better as I really had no idea how much room the equipment needed. I did however express my concerns to the crew while they were installing the plumbing. They said I needed to talk directly to the contractor about it. By the time the contractor was able to meet with me at the job site, the plumbing had been completed and I had already received my first lecture about meddling with the workers. The contractor and I sketched out the layout and he agreed that we were indeed short on space.

We couldn't widen the pad where it was as there wouldn't be enough room left to walk between the pad and the fence. My contractor didn't want to move the pad forward to widen it as it would require reworking all of the now completed rough-in plumbing. He offered up a compromise of making the pad deeper (front to back) in order to allow for more square footage on the pad which he assured me would provide all the room I needed. I agreed (remember I have no idea how much room equipment takes up) and we moved forward with the plan.

So, here's the pad after it was poured. Not sure why all the electrical had to come up in the middle of it, but there it is:

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The crew finally brought my equipment back to the job site (having earlier confiscated it) and placed it on the pad. Second pump is encroaching on my shelving area, but I can build the shelves above it...

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Oh, you guys just placed it there for storage purposes... You mean it can't be plumbed like that? It needs to go where?!

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Well shoot, there goes my room for shelving. I guess there was no room for a wall on the filter side of the pad anyway...

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Or the auxiliary pump side for that matter...

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Well, at least there was room for my front wall!

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Or so it seemed anyways... Notice the heater exhaust port is about 2" from the back of the wall? My contractor brought that up to me last week (over 3 months after the heater had been plumbed into place) and told me that the inspector might have an issue with it as there is supposed to be a minimum of 6" of clearance. I kind of felt like it was being suggested that it was my fault as I had built my wall too close to his heater. Wasn't he the one that was supposed to have chosen the size of the pad based upon my aforementioned requests? Major fail all the way around if you ask me, but I'm met with, "Well, what would you like me to do about it?" I really don't know, and I don't feel like fixing it should be my problem if the inspector has an issue with it.
 
Errr. Unfortunate. Case of you didn't know what you didn't know. Not sure why the original shrinking of the pad. A pad can't really be too big, IMO, especially if there's going to be walls. I'd want to be able to walk and work all the way around everything.

Spitballin'...

Can you add a flue somehow to the heater and vent it to the outside? Wonder if that would solve for the heater issue. Double-wall flues can get pretty close to building materials. Or turn the heater 90°? The controls are facing the wrong way now, so that would solve for that, too.

This is a bit zany but I might do it, depending on how bad I wanted those other two walls. May or may not have to be done after inspections. You could use a 2x8 plate and cantilever it out past the slab. You'd have the inside 4" bolted to the pad, and attached the studs to the outside 4". That might clear the equipment. Funky, but we're not really talking load-bearing walls, after all. You'd lose 4" of your clearance to fence. Boxed windows, with roof structure, are cantilevered out past foundations, so it's not 100% crazy.

Or turn each stud 90° and make a 1.5" wall instead of of 3.5" wall? Just enough structure to hang your exterior material on? Were you planning on an interior wall material, or exposed studs? That might clear the filter (can't see in the pic's how close that pump is). I've seen an entire attic wall, over 8' tall, framed that way. And that must have passed an inspection at some point.

Regarding the shelves. Would have been nice. But you couldn't store acid on them anyway. Chlorine probably needs to be stored in a cooler area. So what else were you planning on for those shelves? Looks like you have room for some, anyway, back in that one corner.

Sorry, not much help...
 
Heater exhust-I would put a louver of some kind in that place and put the material you want on the rest of the wall around it. I would have it bought and tacked in place to show the inspector what you intend to do.

Pad size-I would build a frame and pour the pad all the way to the fence. Sides and back. You could then put all of the shelving you wanted back there. You can add "wings" to your wall that act as gates to help hide the stuff back there. That will be great for pool toys and such. I would have them pay for it as THEY are the ones that made it smaller. PLEASE tell me you have the pad size in writing somewhere! If they will not pay for it you can put down roofing felt and put rocks and stepping stones to the fence. Put the shelves on the fence and do the wing gates to help hide the stuff.

I do NOT like it when people do not listen :( gurrrrrrrrrr

Kim:kim:
 
Oh, I like the gates idea. Yes. Concrete or pavers or rocks to cover the dirt, for sure. I use deck boxes for toys and MA and chlorine (all separate), and another for misc. pool supplies and equipment. Those could line the fence behind your pad. Three of them contain all the stuff I need for my pool (toy boxes are elsewhere):

deck boxes.jpg

I describe in one of my threads how I lock 'em up to keep nasties away from inquisitive kids... Something the gates could accomplish.
 
PS. What I implied but didn't spell out, in case you didn't know: you can't store muriatic acid anywhere near anything metal, especially in an enclosed space. The acid jugs are vented, and the fumes will corrode anything near them. And you can't store chlorine anywhere near MA, as the two can combine to create a toxic gas. MA is OK outdoors, it's not affected by heat. Chlorine degrades over time, which is accelerated the warmer it gets. So plan your shelving and/or storage accordingly...
 
Both pumps should have been installed with High Temp Unions.

I'm not a fan of that "T" on the output of the pump to the filter but other than that nice to see the builder used Sweep Ell's throughout. Good job.

I seem to remember that when I looked at the plumbing, there was a way to disassemble the pump plumbing as if it had a union. I'm not at home to check, but I see in the picture that the heater has a union. Don't think they'd have installed one there without making provisions for the pump to be removable, but who knows...

As for the "T" just prior to the filter, it has a hose bib in it and is labeled "Rain Drain." is that typically placed elsewhere?
 
Can you add a flue somehow to the heater and vent it to the outside? Wonder if that would solve for the heater issue. Double-wall flues can get pretty close to building materials. Or turn the heater 90°? The controls are facing the wrong way now, so that would solve for that, too.

I've been considering a flue, but not sure there's even enough room to attach an elbow to the back of the heater without it hitting the wall. There's some sort of special $100 Pentair exhaust/flue/drain adapter you're supposed to use in between the heater and the elbow. Turning the heater 90° may be an option. It will complicate the plumbing a bit, but may be an ideal solution so long as either my electrical stuff or my Genie can handle the heat. As for the controls, the lid on the Pentair allows them to be rotated to any of the 3 non-exhaust sides. I'm planning on doing that once my contractor is done with the job.

Some good ideas on the walls, but ultimately I'm probably just going to attach a 4x4 post to each of the back corners of the pad and install a roof over the equipment. That's really what I was after anyways. Maybe I can hang small shelves from the bottom of the roof?...
 
Heater exhust-I would put a louver of some kind in that place and put the material you want on the rest of the wall around it. I would have it bought and tacked in place to show the inspector what you intend to do.

The air flow coming out of the heater is directed upwards, so the louvers wouldn't do much. I've also considered going straight out the back with the flue pipe, but am hesitant for two reasons. First, I don't want to mess up the look of my oh so pretty wall (pictures yet to come). Second, that would dump the exhaust (and any associated noise) right next to my raised patio area.

I'm going to wait and see what the inspector says first because in reality, it's not only the heat that's an issue. Industry standard for pool heaters is 6" of clearance not only for fire hazard, but also serviceability and proper air flow around the heater cabinet. Literature I've read on it also indicates that there is no grandfather clause. If a service technician comes out to work on my heater and recognizes that it doesn't meet code, he owns the code violation if he decides he wants to work on it at all.

Pad size-I would build a frame and pour the pad all the way to the fence. Sides and back. You could then put all of the shelving you wanted back there. You can add "wings" to your wall that act as gates to help hide the stuff back there. That will be great for pool toys and such. I would have them pay for it as THEY are the ones that made it smaller. PLEASE tell me you have the pad size in writing somewhere! If they will not pay for it you can put down roofing felt and put rocks and stepping stones to the fence. Put the shelves on the fence and do the wing gates to help hide the stuff.

Good ideas as well. My current plan however is to dig a fair-sized drain basin behind my pad so I can wash my filter cartridges there without having to drag them all over the place. I'm considering the wing gates, but I think my angled walls will do all the hiding I need. I've got another area scoped out for pool toys and cleaning equipment. Pad size is in writing somewhere in my contract, I remember specifically as it was the "other" box that was checked rather than one of the standard sizes. It was changed so many times verbally though that I'd have a tough time using it to prove my case.

- - - Updated - - -

PS. What I implied but didn't spell out, in case you didn't know: you can't store muriatic acid anywhere near anything metal, especially in an enclosed space. The acid jugs are vented, and the fumes will corrode anything near them. And you can't store chlorine anywhere near MA, as the two can combine to create a toxic gas. MA is OK outdoors, it's not affected by heat. Chlorine degrades over time, which is accelerated the warmer it gets. So plan your shelving and/or storage accordingly...

Yes, Chlorine and MA stored together = bad. I like your boxes for the chemical storage. I'll be storing MA and rock salt as that's what the Genie uses for chlorine production.
 

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SPOILER ALERT!!!! Stop reading and skip to the next post if you're enjoying the suspense.... :D









I got some good news this morning! Received a text message from my contractor saying that the plaster crew will be at my house mid-day! :D Bad news is the water meter I ordered online won't be here until next week. A little more than 24 hours notice would have been nice. I was told that I needed to be home for plaster due to some custom tiles that need to be placed, what if I didn't just happen to have the day off work? :(
 
What?! Wow! What a surprise. Usually it’s the other way around... they end up pushing things back. Our plaster was yesterday and I forgot to attach my flow metres this morning before they came to acid wash and fill. I’m using my house water meter to give me a rough idea although when I arrived home it was already filling so have to guesstimate that amount. Glad you were home!
 
Some good ideas on the walls, but ultimately I'm probably just going to attach a 4x4 post to each of the back corners of the pad and install a roof over the equipment. That's really what I was after anyways. Maybe I can hang small shelves from the bottom of the roof?...

It might come in handy to have access from the sides. Might have been a bit quieter with the side walls, but those Pentair pumps are pretty darn quiet.

Yes, Chlorine and MA stored together = bad. I like your boxes for the chemical storage. I'll be storing MA and rock salt as that's what the Genie uses for chlorine production.

If you go with a deck box for MA: some you'll find have metal hinges. The model you see in my pic is 100% resin, hinges too, so MA-proof.

I got some good news this morning! Received a text message from my contractor saying that the plaster crew will be at my house mid-day! :D Bad news is the water meter I ordered online won't be here until next week. A little more than 24 hours notice would have been nice. I was told that I needed to be home for plaster due to some custom tiles that need to be placed, what if I didn't just happen to have the day off work? :(

One of his other jobs stalled, so he's filling in his schedule this week with yours. You have the backup meter trick, no problem there. You'll still get a great number. Maybe you can return the one you ordered? You'll be glad you're on site for the plaster. Keep an eye on things, quality control, etc. Rootin' for ya!
 
I seem to remember that when I looked at the plumbing, there was a way to disassemble the pump plumbing as if it had a union. I'm not at home to check, but I see in the picture that the heater has a union. Don't think they'd have installed one there without making provisions for the pump to be removable, but who knows...

As for the "T" just prior to the filter, it has a hose bib in it and is labeled "Rain Drain." is that typically placed elsewhere?
Yes they are typically placed right there at the pump output. But, that hose bib could have been placed off a Wye with a Sweep, or off an inline T. But really it's minor since your builder did the right thing and used sweeps throughout. Google "Wisperflo High Temp Union" or "High Temp Sweep Union"
 
I used to have a hose bib in the middle of my pad's plumbing, but it got removed when they reconfigured for the solar install. What is that hose bib used for?
 
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