Bungee Plugs - Anyone ever used these?

[dw886]

It's our first year closing down our pool, so I had the pool company that built it come and do the honors.

They're using a new type of blow-out plug called a "bungee plug" (Bungee Plug A product of Aqua Group, LLC.) - they told me it was their first year using these. Basically, it replaces the eyeball in the pool, and then there's a hole in the center that's plugged with a rubber stopper that's held in place by a strap coming off of the back of it. When you blow air through the system, the strap stretches allowing air to exit. As soon as the pressure is removed from the backside, the strap contracts, and the hole is plugged, sealing the return from water.

I'm wondering if there's anyone that has used these in the past...and looking for feedback. I'm a little nervous, because after the lines were blown out, air bubbles were coming up from the plug. In my mind, the only reason that there would be air bubbles is because the air inside the dry line was being supplanted by water getting into the line...

Here's the picture from the website that probably explains this better than my explanation:

 

[Chemnut]

They certainly look far superior to Anderson Duck plugs. In fact, I plan on using them next fall.

 

[run53]

Maybe I'm missing something but what is the advantage over a normal threaded plug?

The air bubbles coming from the plug concerns me.

 

[Chemnut]

No need to lower water.

 

[dw886]

Maybe I'm missing something but what is the advantage over a normal threaded plug?

The air bubbles coming from the plug concerns me.

[You use these when your return remains underwater (when you're not lowering the water level to close the pool). With auto-covers, the practice in our region seems to be to leave enough water in the pool to support the cover...so the pool remains full, and the returns are below the water line.

 

[run53]

You use these when your return remains underwater (when you're not lowering the water level to close the pool). With auto-covers, the practice in our region seems to be to leave enough water in the pool to support the cover...so the pool remains full, and the returns are below the water line.​

I always blow out the returns while they are under water. Once the line is blowing for several minutes, I simply plug it with the blower still running. I like to leave the water above the returns when I plug them so i can tell if there are any leaks in the plug. Otherwise, how would you know if the plug was successful?

 

[Chemnut]

How do you get plugs in with the air coming out? No way I could plug that way with my cyclone. I'd be afraid of doing damage to a fitting.

 

[run53]

How do you get plugs in with the air coming out? No way I could plug that way with my cyclone. I'd be afraid of doing damage to a fitting.

I also use a cyclone. Never had a problem threading the plugs in with the air coming out. Although I agree that you have to be careful that you don't strip the threads. I need to use two hands to line it up properly and then thread it in. You know you have it threaded properly once it starts screwing in with ease. Any resistance in the threading, then start over.

 

[Chemnut]

But but but, what about all that air? That's a serious amount of air that your blocking while doing this. I am assuming you are blowing from the pad, either thru the pump or a union, either way I wouldn't recommend this method. Winter plugs are meant to go in once water is below the returns, or you use duck or bungee plugs.

 

[slickraft]

I would be more concerned about leakage at the large O-ring seal at the fitting OD and not the plug itself but I agree, seeing bubbles seem like a problem when it should be all sealed. In Phoenix metro area we only see frost maybe once or twice a year so no winter pool closings here.

 

[Thorvald]

Hmm, if there is enough air pressure in that pipe after it is sealed (assuming you are turning a valve at the other end to seal the air in there), then I can see it pushing the seal out slightly enough to allow water in. However as soon as the water pressure is greater than the air pressure in that pipe, it should seal really good.

Too bad their demo video on the website only does a quick dump and doesn’t seal up the pipe with a valve after running the air.

I might see if I can order a pair and do a simple test before I Winterize.

 

[Catanzaro]

I always blow out the returns while they are under water. Once the line is blowing for several minutes, I simply plug it with the blower still running. I like to leave the water above the returns when I plug them so i can tell if there are any leaks in the plug. Otherwise, how would you know if the plug was successful?

Prefer this method, but use black expandable plugs as I can also see if air is leaking out. Some air will escape in the plumbing back to the filter, plumbing, any openings during winterizing process.

 

[Chemnut]

Where is that air escaping once you have every return plugged but the cyclone still on?

 

[JohnT]

Where is that air escaping once you have every return plugged but the cyclone still on?

Normal closing procedure with threaded plugs has you close all the plugs with the air still on. If you turn it off before they are closed, water will flow back into the pipes. These plugs vent until you shut the air off, then they seal.

 

[Catanzaro]

Where is that air escaping once you have every return plugged but the cyclone still on?

The Cyclone is turned off after the last return that is plugged. Once off, air can escape in the plumbing back in the system towards the equipment pad. Once I remove the modified cover pump lid, with the MPV on recirculate, you can hear some air escape back out. The plumbing, upon closing is not completely sealed and pressurized with air. Yes, the returns are closed with either threaded plugs or black plugs, skimmers with plugs or gizmos, but the main drain is where air supposedly stays air bound and locked, unless one of the valves leaks.

 

[Chemnut]

You can't turn the cyclone off until you have that final plug in, unless your pad is right beside the return, so if you plug it with the cyclone on, where does all that air pressure go?

 

[dfahrion]

You can't turn the cyclone off until you have that final plug in, unless your pad is right beside the return, so if you plug it with the cyclone on, where does all that air pressure go?

A quick google shows "The Cyclone vac has a sealed pressure of 160 inches or 13.4 ft of water" which is just under 6psi. So to answer the question, once sealed it just holds 6psi of air in your pipes until you turn it off, 6psi isn't going to hurt anything.

 

[JohnT]

You can't turn the cyclone off until you have that final plug in, unless your pad is right beside the return, so if you plug it with the cyclone on, where does all that air pressure go?

It's in the pipe keeping water out exactly as it is supposed to be. How else would you evacuate the pipe?

 

[Chemnut]

You use a duck plug if not lowering the water, or a regular threaded plug if lowering the water.

 

[JohnT]

You use a duck plug if not lowering the water, or a regular threaded plug if lowering the water.

You can use a threaded plug regardless. You put them on loosely and let them bubble for a while, then close them one at a time and then open and close them one at a time as you move away from the pump for the final bleed.