Older Goldline AquaRite - Board Compatibility

[familytr33]

I have an older Goldline Aquarite system.

The main board has fried (see pic below), quite possibly due to my sub-prime soldering skills; I replaced the in-rush limiter a few times. In case anyone is wondering the symptoms were, Check Salt and Inspect Cell were solid.

The board is labeled 066012c-1 and the software version is r1.33.

The button, switch and knob on the mini board mini display board all function OK.

I'm planning to replace the main board and keep the mini-display board.

Should I replace with the exact same part number (066012c-1 ) or should I get a later GLX version? The price does not seem much different but any compatibility issues with the current box, including the mini display board? Did they fix the in-rush problem in later GLX boards?

Or should I just upgrade everything?

Thanks,

ft.

 

[mas985]

That may not be as bad as it looks. It looks like the solder vaporized. I bet if you clean off the board and contacts and re-solder the one location it will probably work again. It is certainly worth a try.

 

[familytr33]

I bet if you clean off the board and contacts and re-solder the one location it will probably work again. It is certainly worth a try.

Thanks for the suggestion but that's way outside my comfort zone. Soldering the in-rush limiter was about as far as soldering goes for me.

A new board looks to be about $150. The old one was in almost 14 years. I think it's time. I could just do with a recommendation on what to get.

Many thanks,

ft.

 

[familytr33]

JUst purchased a generic replacement Aqua Rite Replacement Main PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) PL7100 from inyopools.com for $157 (free shipping) after $10 coupon applied.

Several Q&A's on the product page indicate it's a direct replacement for 066012c-1.

Will report back after installation.

ft.

 

[familytr33]

Update, 1 week later...

Just installed the blue PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE) PL7100from inyopools.com

For anyone else coming down this road the new board arrived with only 2 of the 4 nylon posts to attach to the wall box. I had to transfer 2 posts from the old board.

Also the manual mentioned there are jumpers provided with a default setting for 240V. There were no jumpers provided. I transferred the jumpers from my old box.

Unfortunately... I now have no LCD display and all the LED's are solid. A possible incompatibility with my green aquarite display board? Inyopools site said they should be compatible.

Inyopools hours are Mon-Fri and today is Sat. So it looks like I will not resolve this until next week. Grateful for any suggestions in the meantime.

Many thanks,

ft.


ps. Fortunately Walmart chlorinating liquid is keeping the pool in good shape in the meantime, using about 3 bottles per week.

 

[familytr33]

Update, 3 days later...

Happy ending

After Inyopools support asked me to reseat the display board again, I noticed the right-most pin (pin 7) was poking through a hole on the display board but not connecting into the white connecting block. In fact all the pins were off-set to the right by one.

As I re-installed I levered the display board to the right a little to ensure the 7 pins connected into the white block connector. The nylon posts had guided the display board slightly to the left so the pins went through the wrong set of holes on several attempts..

Hopefully the attached pic shows better than I explained.



Anyway, next time I powered up it worked as-expected, and we seem to be generating chlorine in good order.

Will report back, but this generic board (at $150) is good value and seems to be doing the job nicely.

HTH,

ft.