Black Algae, Wire Brush, New Plaster

After a very careful examination yesterday, I may be seeing some extremely small black spots that go away with some brushing. The problem is, the metal pool brush is sometimes scratching the new plaster.

Water was clear this morning. But I feel like a gallon of 12.5% bleach used up in one day is caused by more than just the sun and bathing load. So I need to do the OCLT again but there are just too many people here right now and I can't be sure what happens after I go to bed.
 
There lies the problem...........you have no idea what happens when you are not there......This is a "rented" pool, so like a rented car, they do NOT care what they do to it or add to it so you are having to add more FC than a "normal backyard" pool will need is what I am thinking. See if you can rub a chlorine puck on the spots and make them go away that way so you do not have to worry about scratching the new plaster.

Kim:kim:
 
You should be keeping your free chlorine higher so that the black spots do not come back. You are doing a lot of manual dosing so should keeping your fc higher than the swg section of the chlorine/cya chart.
 
I ordered the IC60 SWG today right after I bleached my shorts for the first time.

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You should be keeping your free chlorine higher so that the black spots do not come back. You are doing a lot of manual dosing so should keeping your fc higher than the swg section of the chlorine/cya chart.

Yes that's good advice. I was going with the non-SWCG guidelines. 90 CYA, Min 7 FC and Targeting 10-12 FC.
 

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Do you have and ETA on the SWG and when it will be installed?

Before I switched to a SWG, I ruined a lot of clothes. I love my SWG. I just replastered my pool last week and I have to manually dose using bleach and I'm trying to not ruin my clothes. I can't wait until I can add salt and turn my SWG back on.
 
This morning's readings are as follows.

FC 11
CC 0
pH 7.6

I added a gallon of 12.5% bleach and a quart of muriatic.

The PH test is invalid if FC is above 10 - so test FC first and just skip PH if FC over 10. I realize in your situation the FC may be over 10 a lot, but until you get the new swg dialed in, your high bather load and manual additions will likely give you enough opportunities to test and adjust PH.

Also, I didn't see anyone else mention it, and you might already be doing it, but please be sure to space MA and bleach additions by 20-30 mins for safety.
 
The PH test is invalid if FC is above 10 - so test FC first and just skip PH if FC over 10. I realize in your situation the FC may be over 10 a lot, but until you get the new swg dialed in, your high bather load and manual additions will likely give you enough opportunities to test and adjust PH.

Also, I didn't see anyone else mention it, and you might already be doing it, but please be sure to space MA and bleach additions by 20-30 mins for safety.

This is all new information to me so thank you!!!

This morning's readings are as follows.

FC 10

CC 0
pH 7.4

I added a gallon of 12.5% bleach.
 
Avoid dropping the PH below 7.2 unless you're trying to lower TA. It can really tank your CSI value towards potentially corrosive to plaster quite quickly.

Great job on the SWG swap. Looking forward to the update.

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And unless you're still lowering TA, any PH 7.2-7.8 is equally acceptable as long as your CSI doesn't dictate one over another. In other words, PH 7.4 7.6 7.8 don't require acid additions unless you're dropping TA.
 

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