Looking for some advice, have a Hayward 36 DE filter, grids are about 5 years old, after backwashing and hosing down grids the pressure rises in a couple hours to the 20-30 psi range, normal range is 10-15 psi, the gauge appears to be working properly as it drops to 0 when pump is turned off, it has never done this before, the flow from the jets is ok but not great, when I switch multi-valve to recirculate the flow from the jets is noticeably stronger, pool is clear no visible algae, any suggestions?

hello looking forward to learning a bunch from everyone

bought Ultra XTR® Frame Above Ground Pool w/ Sand Filter Pump - 24' x 52" last summer 2022.

Last week, I noticed that my pool is not running. I walked to the controller and noticed that its time and date is not correct. I changed the mode from internet to manual and set the time and the date. Then, the pool started running on its schedule. Later, I found that I was not able to login to my IntelliCenter2 app on my cellphone. And, when I logged in to the IntelliCenter webpage from my computer, it showed that the status is offline. I think that the problem started after we had a power outage in our neighborhood. Again, I walked to the equipment pad; and this time, I noticed that I had the Pool icon but didn't have my Spa on the screen of the controller (please see the photo I took from the controller screen). I used to have both pool and spa on the screen, and I could switch between pool mode and spa mode. I would appreciate it if anyone could help me fix this. Thank you in advance. @Jimrahbe @ajw22 @Turbo1Ton @matthewsunshineflorida

Hi.
I am trying to troubleshoot an issue I am having with my SPA slowly draining into the pool, but I am also just trying to learn more about the purpose of the different pipes connected to my pool.

I believe the SPA draining might be caused by the valve handle on the return line pointing in a 2 o'clock position (circled in red). My understanding is that in it's current position I am returning water to both the pool and the SPA. If I want to operate in SPA only mode, should the valve handle point in a 12 o'clock position towards the wall? My understanding is that this would turn off the pool return line and only return water to the SPA?

I plan to take pictures before turning these dials to be able to find back to the original configuration, but before I start, are there ways to seriously damage the piping if these valves are temporarily turned in the wrong directions?

Thanks!

My 3 year old pump is buzzing when I try to start it so I'm assuming it's a cap. Can anyone point me to replacements for the two caps? Or should I just try replacing one? Pics attached.

Thank you!

Hey all, I'm new to TFP and these forum and this is just my second season as a pool owner. Last year i feet like I was never getting the information i needed from the local pool store, so it was a relief to find this place!

Just opened the pool myself yesterday (used a company last year) and did my first tests with the TF-pro test kit and was hoping for some help.

A. My levels seem way out of whack, and before I start pouring chemicals in, was thinking someone might be able to provide some direction. That said, the water looks and smells good, so that's a plus.

B. I struggled with the rust staining pictured all year last year. I used some different products sold by the pool stores which provided a temporary solution, but it would just come right back. Has anyone had any expierence fighting that and have some reccomendations?

I'm sure there is a lot of information I'm leaving out, so I apologize in advance, but any direction or expertise would be really appreciated.

I'm in Dutchess County, New York and we are installing an aluminum pool fence similar to one shown in the picture below. The fence is within 5 ft of the pool edge along three sides and further than 10 ft away on the remaining side. The electrician says he is required by code to bond each individual post along the entire perimeter of the fence on all four sides. This seems overkill to me since the metal of the fence is essentially all connected, so that attaching a bonding wire anywhere along the fence would pick up current generated anywhere else along the fence. I could see a requirement to bond in a few places, say each corner, etc. -- but all 30 posts? Would appreciate any specific rules or code regulations that would be applicable here. Thank you.

So last Wednesday we had a huge plume of smoke come though from Canada. The next day I noticed my pool was cloudy. I boosted up the pump speed and shocked it. The pool cleared up in couple of days.
I did an oclt and it passed.
My wife swam last weekend. Kids swam today. The water looks cloudy again, not as bad though. Last time I couldn't see the bottom of the deep end.
All my testing is linked
Not sure what's going on. Only thing I can think of is soot settled and got stirred up today, but I've ran my vacuum multiple times and it never clouded. I also cleaned the filter
Thanks!

Hi All - I'm getting tired of buying and storing the chlorine tabs that my pool builder started me off using when my pool was built a year ago. I have the TF-100 test kit and have noticed my CYA levels creeping up near 100 which I don't like. I'm considering retrofitting a SWG into my pool, but have some questions about it.

My pool uses Hayward equipment (VS pump, heater, Omnilogic automation) and is approximately 9000 gallons including the spa. I also have a Paramount in-floor cleaning system. I reviewed the plumbing situation and there doesn't seem to be a convenient place to install the SWG other than on the pipe feeding the in-floor cleaning system. I understand that installing the SWG on that pipe means it won't chlorinate the pool if I shut off the in-floor, but it's on 99.9% of the time. Would it be a bad idea to install a Hayward AquaRite on this pipe?



I'm also curious how big of a cell I should get. The T-Cell 3 says it's good for up to 15,000gal and my pool is about 9,000gal. However, I've seen on the forums you should oversize the cell. I also live in the Phoenix area, so the pump will run 365 days/year for 8-12 hours a day at various speeds. Would you recommend oversizing further and getting the T-Cell 9 rated for 25,000gal?

Any other advice for someone considering a DIY install of a SWG like this?

Thanks in advance!

I have been a pool owner since 2015.

We got rid of our pool service several years ago and I switch to relying on Leslie's products and recommendations.

I am now feeling confident enough to take care of the pool on my own, and am very pleased to have bumped into TFP.

Hello TFP folks! First time poster, as our pool was just finished about one week ago.
We have a Prowler 920 that I have used about 4 or 5 times in the last week. Up until today, it worked fine. Now, today, it will not power on when I plug it in. The power supply box with the power button and schedule selection buttons and lights will not come on. The outlet that it is plugged into is working fine (I tried different outlets, plugged something else in to test the outlets and no issues). I didn't leave it submerged nor did I start it out of water.
Anyone have any suggestions, aside from contacting Dolphin about a repair/replacement?
Kind of frustrating that it seems to have gone kaput in only one week.
Thanks for any suggestions!

My pool heater came up with the “CE” error code a while back.
The service manual states that this is a communication error between the display board and the control board.
I replaced the control board and it did not clear the code.
Replaced the display board (which comes with the ribbon cable already attached) and the problem is still there.
Replaced the fuses board and no change. The dreaded “CE” code is still present.
Ordered a second control board and the problem continues.
I noticed that the part No. for the control board (as per the service manual) is FDXLICB1930. This is the same part No. I have used to buy the control boards. I have bought them from pool company that I found in Internet.
The damaged control board that came out of my heater has a sticker with a Hayward Pool number 1102285201 0160-0042 VER20.
Does anybody has an idea if these boards are interchangeable ?
Are there different versions of these boards ?
Any help will be appreciated.

All,

I have been using TFP for many years, and this week hitting an issue...

My salt cell or sensor (Jandy aqua pure system) seems to be malfunctioning (service code 194).

Currently my pool is in decent shape, and as best I can tell I caught this problem before the FC dropped below 4.5ppm.

I'm going to be leaving town for a week soon, and don't think I can get the cell and/or sensor replaced/serviced by then.

Current numbers are:
pH 7.4
FC 4.5
CC 0.5
TA 40
CYA 50
CH 800

I keep the pool warm, so it's normally between 85-90F.

I have got a few days before I leave town-- any thoughts on how to best set it up for a week without attention? My thought was get FB to around 30, put the cell on 80% and pray.

I live in Nashville, and liquid Chlorine is not available in the city to my knowledge, outside of bleach jugs, which is what I usually use to SLAM when needed.

Thanks for any help.

Steve
20,000 gallon inground vinyl liner
De4820
Jacuzzi jvs165s variable speed pump

So I'll start with this, my parents bought this house when I was 8 yrs old and my dad worked for a pool company previously and at the time of purchase. I learned the ins and outs of pool care, troubleshooting, opening and closing pools. I even helped my dad with side jobs when I was younger. Since then I've purchased my parents house and have always taken care of the pool.

I recently just upgraded from a hayward superpump 1.5hp to a variable speed. I also scoped my skimmer line and discovered a few holes from a groundhog that made a home under the concrete that surrounds the pool. So I replaced my skimmer line, installed a new jandy gray valve that diverts between the skimmer and main drain(main drain has been an issue since my parents bought the house) and installed the variable speed.

The problem I'm having is I can not get the pump to stay fully primed. So far I've open up the jandy found a partially crushed gasket, replaced with a whole new jandy head assembly. Checked every connection more than 3 or 4 times with all the usual methods garden hose, shaving cream and I've even went over every glue joint individually and added glue then turned on the pump so if there was a tiny pin hole the glue could be sucks in and seal the leak. Lid o-ring is magic lubed well, inlet oring is lubed and threading is teflon taped with liquid teflon on top of that. Drain plugs on the pump are tefloned and orings are lubed. Threaded coupling on the bottom of the skimmer is tefloned and liquid tefloned.

No matter what I do I can not get this thing to stay primed. I even got a replacement variable speed pump thinking something was defective with the pump. Another weird thing that I can't figure out is that I can prime the pump fully with no air if I set the multiport to waste. It will not prime on recirculate or rinse or filter. How can it prime to waste when it's pulling from the same skimmer line, the only thing that changes is where I'm sending the water too. So how is that making a difference when I prime but I can't get a full prime set to filter?

Sorry for the long winded post but I wanted to give as much info as I could even though I'm sure I forgot something. Thanks in advance for any help

My phrasing might be wrong, but after re-opening the pool we clearly had some shifts in concrete, and as part of that I have 'gaps' in between the border and the concrete. I am concerned with leaving it this way due to rain, etc, so I'm hoping someone can tell me what to use.

Login to view embedded media - Imgur since too large to upload. You can see the gap around the 'frame'. I wasn't sure if I can use just normal silicone caulk, or something special?

Hi All. This year when starting the the filter I'm noticing a leak between "to pool" elbow at the top of the filter, and the straight piece with the small piece jutting out. (See video). I don't even know how these two are connected. I tried turing the straight piece with a large wrench and it doesn't budge. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

20230617_183419.mp4

Hello, I used citric acid to remove stains from liner and now unable to keep chlorine up. This was done a week ago and every 2 days the chlorine drops to nothing after adding shock. I have 24’ round above ground pool. How do I keep the chlorine up? How long until the citric acid dissipates? The stains are gone and the pool is crystal clear with good ph but just have to keep adding shock every two days.

Okay, so we had gone out of town for a week and a half and I let the chlorine go to nearly zero (I know, I know, lesson learned). There were a couple small (maybe 6”) streaks of yellow on a shady wall and then over near the light housing. My CYA is sitting at 40 so for the last 48 hours I’ve had the chlorine levels up to between 16 and 18. I took the light out of the housing to made sure I brushed well inside. Here is my question…

The pool is 10 feet deep so I can’t be sure but it does look like there is some yellow just around the main drain. I’ve brush it well and vacuumed each day but so I need to get down there and remove the drain cover? If so, how do I do that with the chlorine levels being so high? Is it safe to swim in that?

Second question- after I pass the SLAM, what is the level for mustard algae I need to get it up to for 24 hours?

Thanks in advance.

Hello, pentair mastertemp 200. Turned it on for first time. Was getting crazy high water temp reading and it wouldn’t fire. Replaced thermistor and this allowed it to finally fire again. However now it’s still doing same as last season. On for about 2 mins… then off… off lasts 30-45 secs and then on again. Cycles forever. Is there more troubleshooting or parts to swap out?

Hello all and thanks for the warm welcome - I’m new here and have historically used tfp for pool knowledge and finally decided to join the community. Looking forward to learning more about the tfp method.

Hello, im having a suction issue and went to the skimmer to see if it was clogged i see the hole in skimmer has like a plastic ball of some sort is it supposed to be there or something stick thanks

My filter isn't strong enough to get one of those self propelled cleaners, but wondering if there's like smaller handheld vacuums that will vacuum up all the little stuff that seems to stay or end up back on the bottom of my pool after I use the attach to a hose catch debris in a little mesh net "vacuum" that came with my Intex.
Less costly would be a bonus

Would a PSTG5 work in place of a true pc7-120 A/C filter for an AGP? Not long term, just in a pinch here with limited choices in my area.

Hi all,

I’ve only ever used sand filters. The one I inherited with my pool is definitely a little undersized and it’s been on my list of things to replace for 5 years now.

There is someone local to me selling a sta-rite system:3 cartridge filter. I’ve always liked the idea of cartridges, but what do I look for when buying used? It’s listed for $100, so the risk is low, but I still want to make an informed decision.

Model is the S7M120

My pool has a Paramount in-floor system. It runs ALL the time if the pumps are on. PB says it’s connected to the vanishing edge setting on my phone and turning that off will turn it off. Spoiler: turning off vanishing edge doesn’t turn it off.

I’ve noticed turning off Vanishing Edge does NOT turn off the pump completely. I don’t know how to turn it off completely but am guessing that maybe that’s what needs to happen to turn off the in floor cleaners.
Here is what I’m finding in my iaqualink

Vanishing edge of, in-floor cleaners still running.

VSP settings

I used to pour liquid chlorine standing up at arms length. I would get some splashes on my legs while wearing shorts but I didn't worry too much about that. Later on, I realized it was splashing up as far as my shirts (and ruining them). Since then, I bend over and try to get the bottle close to the surface before pouring, and that has mostly eliminated the splashing problem. I do get some small splashes sometimes, especially when first tipping the bottle over. I try to avert my head so I don't get splashes in my face.

After reading some posts, I think I am going to switch from 14.5% to 31.45% muriatic acid. I found a video online that recommends wearing safety glasses and long rubber gloves, pouring the acid into a 5 gallon bucket with a 10:1 water/acid ratio, and then pouring the mixture into the pool.

I am wondering whether the video instructions are a good practice or overkill?

How do others here add strong muriatic acid? And do you do the same with liquid chlorine?

Thank you.

We bought a house with a buried in ground pool in the back. We talked with the former
Owner and there was nothing wrong with it, he just didn’t want the maintenance. He said he busted up the bottom concrete but not the sides, piping, or anything else.

Is this salvageable?? It was a huge and beautiful pool and we REALLY want to save it and bring it back to life if we can.

Hi all, today I have the most strange experience when opening the pool. My trusted little cover pump was working fine and i moved it to a different area of the cover . It quickly stopped working and we were shocked to see the water there was full of oil and giving off this rainbow color on top. The pump is completely stuck. We removed some water with a bucket and it's also full of the oil, and our hands too after manipulating the lump
The water is also full of decomposed pollen and leaves, which is normal. I have no idea how the oil got there.

For background I left the cover on until now because a crew was rebuilding our deck. But I can't imagine they dumped any oil in the cover. However, it is happening near the deck...

I'm now at a loss of how to safely remove the cover with the oil in it. In the picture you can see the rainbow color of the oil on the right side.

Has this happened to anyone ?

Hi everyone,

Just bought a house, and I’m keeping a pool for the first time in 25 years. (details in signature)

Previous owners did zilch for maintenance and upkeep, relying on pool services or equipment failure to prompt them to do anything.

They also left zero documentation, so it’s quite the discovery project.

Looking forward to learning the world of filters, actuated valves, remote control, and automation.