Our pool has a spa attached (shared equipment) which we use in the shoulder months. We close our pool late and open early when water temps are around 32-40.

We don’t heat the pool in the shoulder months but are able to isolate the spa and heat it (around 100).

For example - opened the pool last week (water 41) and we’ll use the spa on weekends (cover it and keep water), then mix the water back in the pool for the week.

If using the SWG for the tub (when heated) how can I figure out what percentage to run it at and how long to run it when not using (but not circulating it back into pool)?

I’m trying to figure out, where is the problem.
I can feel strong suction on the intake, weaker suction in the sweeper (Vingly). Pressure on meter shows 15 or so. No leaks. I tried another Vingly, one that works in another pool (my son’s), still same. Tried adjustments, nothing. The sweeper don’t move.
Filters are clean.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thank you!

Is there a routine on how often the cell should be cleaned or are there visible indicators to check? Or other indicators? I have not cleaned or looked at it since it was installed last June (have had no issues so never crossed my mind to look into it).

Hi all,

Was referred here by a friend, what an amazing community. My pool (20339 gallons) had a few super-unreliable pool guys, the pool turned green, and I decided to maintain it myself. The pool was somewhat neglected for a few months, and while I was cleaning debris out of it, I didn't bother with the chemistry at all (knowing it's wrong).

After reading pool school last week, I fixed my metrics and started SLAM:
1. Brought pH down with Muriatic Acid to ~7.5 (was 8.4 or higher prior)
2. Brought CYA up to 40 (was 0 prior)
3. Brought FC at 16 ("SLAM" level in PoolMath) with liquid chlorine only
4. Replaced my cartridge filters (old ones were not replaced in 3 years, completely fallen apart) and noted the new clean PSI

I've been keeping FC at 16 for 5 days now. Brushing daily. Running my pool robot. I don't have a vaccum.

The water looks A LOT better, but I still have some stains / areas that look green - mostly in the center of the pool.
Brushing the walls/floor of the pool does occassionally bring up a green cloud, so I suppose I'm not done.
But curious how I'm doing so far, and any tips on where to take it from here?

Hello,

My eyes are red from reading so much about pool cleaners. I have used the pressure side cleaner that came with my pool since new and it is on its last leg.

I have a 10,000 gallon pool with a ledge around three sides two steps on the fourth side and then a sun ledge. I have a pool enclosure so there is not much debris in the pool.

I would like to have a cleaner that scrubs the walls and waterline as well as the bottom. I would prefer one that you can leave in the pool for a week at a time. I have the Jandy/AquaLink system and being able to connect to that would be a plus but not necessary.

Any suggestions?

I have a fiberglass jacuzzi which is heated with a gas heater. Where I live, we have months with 20+ days of rain.

My water hardness level is essentially non existent. How important is it to get it up, given that’s it’s a fiberglass jacuzzi and gas heater?

If an increase is needed, where do you typically buy the calcium? I’ve never seen it at the local pool/hottub stores here (Medellin Colombia)

Thanks!

Last time I cleaned the cell (3 months ago) bubbles stopped at about 15 minutes. If been getting check cell light for 6 months, so decided to return it for warranty. So they said return it cleaned, but now it's been bubbling for 30 minutes and still going. I'm using 9% vinegar. They said use 4:1 acid, which this would be about equal to (too strong IMO). Normal? I've already bought a new cell which is working fine, hopefully get a good discount on a second one.

I have a pool with an older Pentair Intelliflo 2 VST pump. Reading through the manual, it seems like I can program the pump with a schedule. In this case, why do I need the mechanical time switch?

I was releasing air to do normal maintenance and it just sort of fell off. I hardly touched it. Maybe this was 12 years in the making. Has anyone tried to get broken stems out somehow?

Hi, I was wondering if anyone here has a solution to stop my hose from kinking up when it exits the pool. I'm sure it's slowing down the discharge rate.

SheriC said:

I am so sorry I didn’t see this sooner! I ended up going in a totally different direction. I ended up switching at the last minute to Tahoe Coast and I absolutely love it! Was going to go with Riviera Coast, switched it to Tahoe. All paperwork was switched. Unfortunately the PB office person forgot to get rid of the old ticket and i came home to the wrong pool color. Didn’t realize until after pool was filled since I work weird hours. PB had the entire pool stripped, replastered, and filled in 1 week With the correct color.
The color changes constantly depending on the time of day, which I love! I do have pics of the Riviera if you would lIke to see them

View attachment 517425View attachment 517426View attachment 517427

Click to expand...

Hi! I know this is an old post you made but I’m currently trying to decide on a Primera stone color and I’m so confused. Are you happy with the Tahoe coast? Do you still have the pictures of the Riviera coast because I was really considering that one. Can I ask what you didn’t like about it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Subject: pH Rose After Muriatic Acid Addition (Confused by the Outcome)


Hi Everyone,


I recently did a drain and refill and have been balancing the chemical myself following TFP protocol. I got FC, CYA and Salt where I want it and I am now working on reducing my TA. I’ve been carefully following the PoolMath calculator to estimate how much muriatic acid to add, lowering pH and TA in stages. However, I’m seeing outcomes that don’t match what the app predicts (especially regarding pH drop), and I’m not sure what’s going on.

Here are the details from yesterday (12:30 PM) sample taken on the deep end, elbow deep:

• FC: 7.5
• pH: 7.83 (confirmed with two calibrated pH meters and a drop test)
• TA: 125
• CYA: approximately 67 (based on drop test)
• Calcium: 350 ppm
• Temp: 66°F
• Salt: 3650 ppm

Following PoolMath’s recommendation, I added 32 oz of 31.45 percent HASA muriatic acid (purchased from Leslie’s) with a target pH of 7.3. I diluted it to about 1.85 percent in softened water and slow-dripped it over two hours directly into agitation created by using an aquarium wave maker (this was mostly out of caution). I’m a bit paranoid about plaster etching and don’t have a strong return jet (due to my in-floor cleaning system). This setup lets me avoid having to brush aggressively right after acid addition and allows me to walk away until it's done.

I got pool gallons size directly from builder and it adds up with how much salt and CYA I have been needing to reach my target.


I didn’t actively aerate using water features (such as spa spillover or fountains), but I do run my pump continuously 24/7. The in-floor system does trigger a spillover when it cycles the spa, and I have a fairly large shallow beach section that creates surface agitation when its zone is active.


This morning at 9:30 AM (less than 24 hours later), I retested and to my surprise, pH had actually risen to 7.87 (instead of dropping to the expected 7.3).
the drop ph test is actually a little darker than the 7.8 mark (see picture).

Pool was built in 2021 and did acid was a few weeks ago if it makes a difference.

I’m scratching my head. The only semi-scientific explanation I can come up with is this:


Even though I used the full acid dose, the slow, diluted addition might have allowed CO₂ to off-gas in real time due to agitation. This may have counteracted the acid’s immediate effect on pH. So the H+ ions still reacted with carbonates (which would explain why my TA dropped), but the pH rebound happened much faster than expected.


The silver lining is that my TA did drop as expected to about 115 (11th drops brings solution from greyish green to light pink and it gets dark pink at 12th drop), so I know the acid wasn’t fake (otherwise I’d be wondering if Leslie’s sold me dog pee instead of muriatic acid).


Any thoughts? Has anyone else seen this kind of pH behavior when using a slow-drip method?

Thank you all!


Full pool specs are in my signature

Hey all, i went to open my pool for the year today and found the pump wont start. I turned the power on to it and set the filter to on at my control panel and the pump just flashes the green light 1 time and then pauses and flashes again. The pump is a Hayward super pump xe 2.25 hp. I saw somewhere that the flashing could be a dc voltage out of range error. Any insight on what i need to check to see if that is my issue. Or anyone had any similar issues would be helpful. Thanks

I ordered a TF test kit and now Shippsy wants proof that it was manufactured in N. America. I e-mailed tftestkits.net for help, but they haven't gotten back to me. I seem to remember dealing w/this problem in the past, but I don't remember how.
Shippsy says

• Certificate of Origin
• An Exporter's Statement of Origin
• Any other documentation that indicates the country of origin of the goods.
• It can also be a web page screenshot showing where the item is made or manufactured.
• A screenshot of the email directly from the manufacturer/vendor stating that they manufactured or produced the item. The screenshot must cover the sender's details, such as the email address, sender's name, timestamp, and date.

is enough. I've been throughout tftestkits.net looking for anything like this, but haven't found anything.

Just moved in coastal Florida, acquired this pool, equipment's in ok-ish shape., currently working on bringing chemistry into TFP recommendations (test kit should be here today!!!)

Looking to convert to a SWG system, and replace the filter at the same time, the filter works, but its weeping, getting brittle, and if im going to do some work, might as well set it up to last.

My questions are:

I dont currently have an equipment pad, just a few pavers (strategically?) placed, how big should i go, was thinking 4x5 feet?

I believe i have a 120 sqft hayward filter, thinking of going for a 200sqft hayward swimclear or jandy of a similar size, or would the 150 be enough for minimal maintenance.

Would like to eventually automate, but dont want to jump on a new pump just yet, this is where where im torn between the tru-clear for SWG, and Pentair for an eventual pump replacement, ive been told the pump and SWG should be from the same manufacturer to make it all work happily together, thoughts?

Also looking at a robot to clean the bottom. pool shop loves the Polaris freedom, hates everything maytronics, where i was considering a dolphin 400, but i suppose that isn't out yet? I haven't found any real reviews comparing the two that seem unsponsored. or should i bail on cordless, and get a corded model? looking for something that can handle waterline cleaning.

My 2 year old daughter decided it would be funny to throw 2 of these rocks (not sure of size/shape) into the skimmer while I was emptying its contents.

I have turned the pump off for now, but I would like to know if I am still able to turn it on and use it?

Also how do I try to get the rocks out?

Hi all, I purchased a house with a pool a couple of years ago and used a pool maintenance company to service it. This year I want to try to do everything myself. I've been browsing through this site and am really enjoying, and I hope that I'll get al the info I need, and won't destroy my pool!
Right now I would appreciate if someone can help me with the following.
My current pump, pentair whisperflo 011514 (1.5 HP) made a very loud noise last year, which got progressively worse during the season. So question number 1) Should I attempt to replace the bearings or just replace the pump? The pump was installed in 2015. 2) If I replace it, from my research it seems I should get the Superflo VST 342002, is this correct? 3) Is there a difference between Superflo VST 342002 and 342001? and lastly 4) please excuse my ignorance over here, but how do I remove the pipe that's connecting the pump to the valve (please see attached picture), do I need to cut it?
Thanks!
Sam

Hi,
I am an American living on the Mediterranean coast, where we have long, hot, dry summers. Our apartment pool and terrace tile has always been grouted with flexible siliconized grout made for pools, with the brands available in Turkey. Our overflow drainage trench (which has been covered with liquid insulation and mesh the past 3 years, tile underneath), has recessed ridges at the top to support the plastic grating. There is L-shaped plastic trim installed on those ridges around the entire perimeter. Each year we do grout repairs before opening the pool, but there always seem to be increasing cracks in the grout line between the plastic trim and the hard border tile. One pool engineer here said that trim is useless; recommended that we remove it, seal the exposed surface with more liquid insulation, and just sit the grating directly on top of the ridge. Another pool engineer said the plastic is fine; just remove the old cement grout and fill it with epoxy grout instead. I have read and been told that epoxy grout has excellent durability between ceramic tiles. However, since the plastic is prone to flexibility, the hard epoxy could crack and separate at the edge. I am having trouble finding information about this precise problem here. I would appreciate any professional advice. Thank you!

Hello Everyone!

I am new to this forums and pools entirely, we just finished our pool build at our home and are excited to get lots of use out of it this year. I am taking on chemicals and maintenance myself as I have been scouring these forums and have learned quite a lot and feel pretty confident that I can manage it easily.

Here are some specs of the pool and there are a few pictures attached:

Pool Size - 18 X 36 with a 7 X 13 Sun Shelf
Spa Size - 7 X 10 with spillover into pool
Water Features - 3 Copper Scuppers opposite Spa
Finish - Stone Scapes Mini Pebble Salt & Pepper
Pump - Jandy eSeries 2.7 Hp Vsp VSSHP270DV2AS
Filer - Jandy CV Cartridge Filter
Heater - Jandy 400K Btu JXiQ Propane
Lights - Jandy Infinite Watercolors Nichless
SWG - Jandy Aqua Pure PLC 1400
Automation System - iAquaLink RS

Great to be here!

Winterized my pool and everything is completely open and all valves are off but water is pouring from skimmer basket. Can someone help me with this?

I just bought 8 gallons of chlorine from Lowes and I can't find the date code.

Hi

I’m at the end of my month long upgrade to my new OmniLogic panel. I have installed a total of 4 valve actuators.
1. Vlv1 return to spa/pool(adjusts when spa is turned on or pool is turned on)
2. Vlv2 suction from spa(opens when spa is turned on)
3. Vlv3. Additional suction from pool ( to close when spa is turned in)
4. Vlv4 additional suction from pool (to close when spa is turned out in)

I have set up the spa with vlv1 &2. It works when the spa is turned on.

I cannot figure out how to get Vlv3 &4 to actuate to closed when the spa has been turned on. So do I need to actuate these other two valves using an interlock when the spa is turned on? I’ve read through the installation instructions and cannot find the answer.

Began SLAM a few minutes ago! Used the calculator to bring to bring FC to 24.

Stupidly did not change percentage from 6% chlorine to 10%.

At 6% I needed 7 gallons and 2 quarts. After adding looked at calculator and caught my error. Should have added 4 gallons 3 quarts!

Barely any algae at opening visible. Drains clear but pool was extremely dirty and vac died. New one installed today and ran for 3 hours b4 removing vac and starting SLAM.

Yikes - brand new liner last season. Do I just test away as normal and write it off to old age or is there anything else I should do.

FC 2
CC .5
Ph 7.5
CYA 60

Please recommend a contact for the correct parts to refresh my Pentair Whisper Flo pump. Losing pressure and flow, a tad bit noisier than normal.
I'm thinking about replacing all the seals and motor bearings. Five years old, still looks like new.
I would like to use the correct OEM parts.
Thank You

Hi all,
I am looking to upgrade to a salt system but if I understand correctly I need to do a bit of re-plumbing to get the minimum 3' between the heater and cell. I'm thinking if I can somehow re-use that first elbow out of the heater, I can spin it upwards, go up about 1.5-2 feet, across the current intake pipe and back down to tie back into the inlet at the valve back to the pool/spa, with the cell on the downward pipe in the front. I guess plan B if I can't re-use the elbow I'll need to source a new union and start that part from new.

I've been looking CircuPool Universal25 Salt Chlorine Generator at discount salt pool with their $10 upgrade to the 40k version or the Pureline Pool Salt System 40,000 Gallons, Chlorine Generator, Control Panel & Salt Cell - Model PL7700 at inyo for about the same. Both seem to get decent praise from what I can tell, the discount salt seems to have a 4 year warranty vs the 1 at inyo with both advertising about the same output so I'm leaning away from inyo unless there's something I'm not seeing. I do have an automation system (no-name relay based) but I'm ok with just a simple on/off for control, I don't see needing to adjust output often enough to go with the hayward one given the extra $1k for that.

Off topic, I would like to replace the temperature sensor but my automation system uses a DS18B20 3 wire sensor instead of the thermistor that everyone normally uses for that shape of sensor, if someone knows of a similar mounting or something where I can slip in my own sensor, I'd be grateful for any leads. This seems like a somewhat custom part and the manufacturer is unfortunately out of business so I can't source a new one that way.

Hi all, I have a new pool build that was completed in Dec 2024 and have learned a lot browsing these forums. I wished I discovered it earlier in the build process so that I could have avoided certain issues.

Now that it's all done and I've been maintaining the pool for a few months now I just wanted to get your thoughts on my SWG usage. I feel it's a bit high from reading others' accounts. Currently seg runs for 5 hrs/day for a 8000 gallon pool to keep FC around 5-5.5.

Jandy Truclear SWG - ran at 50% for 10 hrs/day and keeps FC around 5-5.5
Pool - 8000 gallon gunite
Alk - 80
PH - rise quick to 8.2 or over and brought down to 7.4 every two or three days (rise caused by new plaster?)
CYA - 70
CH - 300
Salt - 3000

Does anything seem seem off or anything I should adjust?

I am waiting for water temps to get to 60-65 to get the new SWG up and running. I am using pucks until then since I am off site. I go out 1x a week to restock pucks, test / balance chemistry and run the robot.

Once the SWG comes online, what is the correct setting to start at being I am not on site daily. I think maybe shoot high, add liquid to give the SWG time to get up to speed?

Pool chemistry will be close to perfect at the switchover.

So exact questions are:

1. Once I get to temp, what settings to leave SWG on it is an RJ60+
2. How many gallons of Chlorine to add initially? I have regular Clorox bleach and also Super Shock (Diamond Brand from Leslies)

Thanks

Jeff

Looking for recommendation for a 140K BTU HP (large single phase ). From looking over multiple manufactures spec sheet the efficiency are all similar (as expected). Are there mfg that are more DIY install accepting? Warranty for DIY install? Any brands more or less reliable than others or last longer? It looks like R410A is going to be phased out to R32. Doesn't look like there are many domestic R32 HP, they mainly look to be imported. R32 should be a little more efficient, not sure if it will be significant enough to tell.

I looked at running NG when redoing the pool a few years ago, but it was going to $8K to $10K to run a line and upgrade the service to my home, so out of the budget and the running cost was about double of a HP. I ended up upsizing the electrical service to the pool, I was replacing it already, only cost more for larger wire and larger conduit.

Like a lot of folks here, I am seeing the dreaded 125/194 codes again now on my system for the third time since the pool was built. We are now just at the end of the 4th season on this pool and we are on our 3rd SWG cell that is now dying. I've had both replacements put in as warranty replacements by the PB, but I think I am on my own now. This last one lasted almost exactly 1 year, which I think is abnormally short. Examining the SWG cell and taking it apart, I found that the center post is completely corroded through (disconnected) at the point where it connects to the center plate. I have never cleaned the cell with acid nor does it have any deposits on it at all. It looks completely clean, like new except for that center post.

Why is it corroding so fast? I have had to SLAM the pool twice this season, but other than that the chemistry has been within TFP guidelines the whole time (only CYA is a little lower but my SWG duty cycle peaks at 40% mid-summer to maintain FC so I think that is good enough). CYA has been around 40-50, the FC around 3-4, I let the pH rise to about 7.9-8.0 before adjusting back down to 7.6 with acid, TA is 50-60 and CH 125-150. Last fall the CSI was just below zero (but pH was high at that time at 8.0 to 8.1), over the winter it dropped to -0.7 to -0.9, but the SWG is only at 10% (or off when water is below 50F). In the spring and over the summer, the CSI has been around -0.6 to -0.7.
Does anything in the chemistry look like it could be conducive to the posts corroding so bad?

Now to my repairs: I tried to solder the post to the plate, but that didn't work, I guess the metals are just not compatible with soldering. I then tried brazing with a copper brazing rod (used for HVAC copper tubing). That didn't want to flow and stick either.
Next, I drilled small holes in the rod and in the top of the plate and reconnected the post to the plate with a short copper wire then wrapped the wire and the connection to the post in waterproof gorilla tape. This worked and it was drawing 6.8A again and produced a lot of hydrogen bubbles. But it only last about 1.5 days before the codes were back again. Taking the cell apart, I found that the complete copper wire was gone (dissolved I suppose) with only a small stub left in the post.

Next, I used a steel nail to make the connection and wrapped the whole rod, connection to the nail, and the connection to the plate completely in gorilla tape to waterproof the whole thing. It's been in the pool for about 12 hours now and still working *knock on wood*.

Has anybody else tried repairing these? It seems crazy to throw away an $600 part only because one connection comes loose!!

Thanks!
Sam

I've got a leak from the water outlet inside my heat pump. It's not broken PVC as far as I can tell, just the seal where the PVC pipe meets the tank where the water is heated. What can I use to seal the connection from the pipe to the tank that will actually work?
I've seen older threads with caked on silicone that looked pretty bad. Some said epoxy wouldn't hold well on an outlet pipe. What's the right fix, and are there specific products you would recommend?