Getting started & old in Texas

Hi, I have been doing my own testing for 4 months now and have some questions:

  • The Total Chlorine is all over the place (from 5 to 27 to 11.5)
  • the CH ppm has dropped to 275 after holding steady from 300-400
  • the TA is holding at about 100
  • the CYA has NEVER been as low as 40-50—but holds above 100
  • I used to put CL tabs (3-5 weekly) but haven’t put in any in the month of Nov.
  • the PH is holding at 7.2-7.5

The daily pH and Chlorine test (I do weekly)—started showing orange color on the yellow side—hence I stopped adding chlorine tabs.

  • I’m attaching my pool chemicals spreadsheet—and want to know if I’m doing this correctly or what?
  • Should I add chlorine again or wait until the daily test shows yellow again?


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IntelliFlo3 intake height

I had a new pad poured and needed to try retrofit the pump install to fit the existing intake piping. I need about a 1.25 to 1.5 'something' for the pump to rest on. It is currently on a spare piece of bluestone that I had for the walkway. Can anyone recommend something a bit more permanent that would be resting flush on the pad? The bluestone is not perfectly flat.



Betta 2 primarily for dog hair

I'm about to pull the trigger on a Betta 2 robot skimmer and I just wanted to give one last check here. My pool has a cage and no plants inside of the cage so I have no worry about leaves. I have two dogs that shed a good deal and it's more than my skimmer can handle, especially when I'm trying to run my pump at lower speeds. I also get the occasional small debris but thats negligible. It's really the hair that drives me nuts.

As for the pool itself, the only thing that I have for it to get hung up on is a sundeck thats about 6 inches deep.

Any reason that this thing would not work? I'll definitely be getting the 3 year warranty with it.

WaterGuru died after working fine for months

WaterGuru worked fine for months but now will not measure FC and pH. I am working through options with support but no luck after about a week of back and forth.

I know there are a few WaterGuru users here, so I am wondering if anyone else experienced this issue. If so, what was the resolution.

Btw: The WG was accurate enough for daily FC and pH testing that I only used my Taylor test kit once per week. The WG is not a replacement for my test kits.

Another "First water test" post

First water test on new pool. Pebble was put in on 10/26 and the builder has maintained it so far. Temps here are 60's during the day and anywhere from 50 to 30's at night. Did my first water test today and am not really sure what I'm looking at. We plan on keeping it open during the winter to use the spa, but it's too cold to swim right now and we haven't even fired up the heater yet anyway. Builder put some chlorine pucks in the skimmer about 2 weeks ago. I texted him today because the iAqualink app had a message that salt was low. He told me to dump some bags of salt in, but I have no idea how much. Just looking for some guidance on what I should be doing.

Couple notes on the test.
- CYA didn't register at all
- The color for the PH was darker than the reference levels so I just guesstimated
- Pool temp was 60F

And this assumes I did everything correctly.

Pentair Mastertemp 250 24 VAC short keeps blowing fuse

Hello! This is my first post ever but I’ve been searching and reading the forum for a while about all sorts of issues with my pool. I use TFP app to track and balance my pool chemistry and I love it. However, I’ve been having a problem with my heater. It’s a natural gas Pentair Mastertemp 250 bought in 2018 new. It is wired at 240V to the same breaker as my pump. It doesn’t have any automation control. It worked great until a month ago when I turned the breaker off to have work done on the pool plaster. Once the work was done and the pool was refilled I turned on the breaker and the pump started up fine but the heater was completely dead. Nothing lights up on the display and the LEDs are all off.

I’ve been trouble shooting the problem for 2 weeks with no success so I’m posting here to see if I can get some expert advice. I have followed the Pentair MasterTemp Electrical Troubleshooting Guide and there’s no problem with the power going to the heater. It’s 240v and yes, the correct (red) plug has been installed since day 1. The heater was working fine before turning it off. I did notice the fuse was blown so I went to Home Depot and bought 1 amp fuses which I realize the correct amperage is 1.25 amps but still I don’t think the issue is with the fuses.

I’ve measured power to the Fireman Switch and it’s showing correctly 24 VAC at the terminals that go to the Main Board and 120 volts at the other two terminals.

With the power off and all connectors to the Main Board disconnected, I’ve measured conductivity between the Fireman Switch terminals and ground to see if there’s a short on the 24 VAC circuit as it was suggested in a different post. I found conductivity when I plug in the J1 connector which tells me the Ignition Control Module or the wiring to it may be where the problem is. However, if I disconnect all connectors to the ICM, I still see conductivity which is telling me the issue is with the wiring or the Main Board. However, I have ordered a new board and the issue remains. There are no signs of the wiring having any damage (it looks brand new) so before I return the board or order a new ICM or wiring harness, I wanted to see if anyone can please provide me with some more troubleshooting techniques or advise.

Thank you for reading my post!

Glacier Pool Cooler with Omnilogic Automation DIY in Louisiana

Hello TFP! I just finished a DYI install of a Glacier Pool Cooler and thought I’d share my experience; had done some research on these initially and while it seems they’re fairly popular, I couldn’t find a lot of information on self-installation. Hope this helps anyone else looking to do their own.

Overview: Glacier GPC-25 Pool Cooler, Hayward OmniPL controller, 13k gallon gunnite inground pool.

I’m in south Louisiana and it’s hot! My pool is in full sun most of the day. It’s early summer and the pool is consistently 92-95 degrees, and I’ve even seen it as high as 98 over the past few weeks; basically an un-swimmable, expensive bathtub. I researched both heat pumps and the Glacier, but opted for the latter as it costs basically nothing to run; a heat pump would be fairly expensive at today’s fuel prices. I originally received quotes from both of my local PB’s on the Glacier, and they each quoted about $5k to 5.2k installed, with a delivery in late Fall; while that may be reasonable by today’s pricing, I didn’t want to wait and went forward with a self-install.

The pool is just under two years old, and I’d fortunately designed for a chiller in the event it were ever needed: space on the pad, dedicated return line to the middle-sidewall of the deep end, and T in the plumbing. I opted for the GPC-25, good up to 20k gallons, as the open space on my pad is 2’x2’ and the only gain from a larger chiller is quicker cooling, though not lower temps.


TC Pool Equipment in California had three in stock for $2.3k plus shipping; bought on Monday and delivery on Thursday. First, this thing is big. Thankfully I didn’t go with the 30k gallon GPC-210; the pad I have was barely enough for the 25. The build quality was a little surprising: it looks almost hand-made; lots of small scratches and imperfections in the fiberglass, grating, mesh, etc., though the unit functionally has no issues so far. So, after getting the unit to the pad, it was on to electrical, automation, plumbing and programming.


Electrical: The GPC-25 is a 120VAC/8A single phase unit, comprised of one sump pump and a fan. It has a weather-proof light-switch box on the side, but note that the unit arrived with nothing wired; just a stock on/off switch. I wired both motors to the electrical box, to the ON contact of the switch. From there, I ran 14AWG wiring from the OFF contact through flexible nonmetallic liquid-tight conduit to the OmniPL controller. This will allow me to control on/off from the controller, and use the manual switch on the Glacier as a disconnect if I ever need to force the unit off locally.

Automation: The OmniPL controller has 4 stock high voltage relays (HVR1-4), with room for two more internal (HVR9 and HVR10), plus an external bank of four (HVR5-8). All onboard were already in use, so I ordered an extra HLRELAY and installed as HVR9, and wired to a new Eaton BR10 20A breaker that I installed in a spare slot dedicated to the Chiller. The OmniPL also has room for four temperature sensors; I have two open, so ordered another sensor to plump into the Chiller’s return line to monitor temperature of the cold water return going into the pool. Not sure if the Omni will allow easy monitoring of this not tied to a named heat pump or solar array, but it was worth the try for $20. The last part of the automation was a new 3-way diverter valve and a Hayward GVA-24 actuator to handle water flow connected to a spare valve channel.

Plumbing: This was definitely the hardest part; plumbing is not fun. While I had asked my PB to pre-plumb for a future chiller, I have multiple issues with my plumbing. Specifically in this case, they installed the diverter valve for the chiller upstream of the filter; you can’t run unfiltered water to ANYTHING, so no idea why they did this. I abandoned that valve, and cut my own diverter connection into the piping downstream of the filter, before the heater. This valve and actuator are typically closed to the chiller, but open when set to run and divert some of the water off to the chiller for cooling.


From there, the input is plumbed to a Jandy ball valve, then into the inlet on the chiller. The return to the pool then runs through a new union to the PVC in the pad, and out to the pool return.


The Glacier manual states for new installs that the return line should be in the bottom center of the pool, but I’m glad my PB located it on the lower sidewall; the cooled water will get picked up by both the skimmer and main drain, then easily spread through the plumbing and off to the entire pool.

Each Glacier also has a drain plug that needs a small ball valve on it for quick draining and winterization; the manual states this is 1”, but on the GPC-25 apparently it’s only 3/4”! That cost me one of my 4 Home Depot runs. In addition to the cost of the Glacier, I spent probably another $400 altogether on the electrical, relay, valves, actuator, PVC, glue, sandpaper and other odds and ends.

Programming: Once everything was installed and running, I ran through a bit of programming on the OmniPL to attempt to automate as much as possible. I setup the Chiller as a new Water Feature, tied to the high voltage relay and the actuator. While the Omni doesn’t allow conditional logic, you can do some things within Interlocks. The downside of the Interlocks is that they force states, so you don’t want to force the Chiller to run: you wouldn’t be able to turn it off. Instead, I setup schedules to run the Chiller essentially full-time though outside of the hour or so that I run my VSP on a higher speed to skim. I then configured a bunch of interlocks: do not run the chiller when the heater is running, don’t run the chiller when in Spa mode, don’t run the chiller when the cleaner booster pump is running, don’t run the heater if the chiller is running, don’t run the chiller if the main VSP isn’t running, etc etc.

The key interlocks I then added are to stop the chiller if the water temp drops below 82 degrees, and to stop the chiller if ambient temperature drops below 78 degrees. Still tweaking those setpoints, but the thought is that if either of these cases occur, the pool is already going to be cool enough naturally and I don’t need to bring the temp any further down! Have more to experiment on this front, but hope that this will essentially allow me to set and forget it, though I’ll still have to consider runtime on the VSP.


From there, startup was very straightforward. Open the inlet ball valve all the way, start the pump and chiller, then pinch back on the ball valve and attempt to time the spray bars to meet a 7-12 RPM speed. Very small movements on the valve make a big difference in speed, so it takes some tweaking to tune it. As others have said on TFP with these, pump speed also matters; I attempted to start on a low speed of 1,300 RPMs, but this wasn’t pushing enough water to run both the chiller and feed my three pool returns, nor to effectively circulate the chilled pool water. I stepped this up to 1,800 RPMs which seemed plenty, which also moved enough water throughout the pool.


From an operational cost standpoint, my first full day cost only $0.51 to run the chiller, and an additional $0.32 to run the VSP; that’s less than a dollar a day adder. The pool temp dropped from 95 degrees to 86, from 3pm when I finished the install and finally turned it on, to 7am the next morning. This was in 97 degree weather with a heat index of 106 and humidity as high as 88. Pretty impressive, as my pool hasn’t seen below 92 in weeks. We jumped in the pool after having the chiller on for maybe 15 minutes, and the water coming out of the return felt ice cold next to the heat of the surrounding water. Running the chiller the entire next day also held temp to a maximum of 88, well within my desired temperature range, and the change was incredible.


Total installed cost was about $3.1k, saving about two thousand from having it professionally installed. My next steps are to install the temperature sensor and continue to tweak the programming setpoints, pump speed, ball valve setting, etc. and try to find an optimal setup. The rain finally came out and this heat wave seems to have finally passed, so I’m halfway disappointed that I won’t need to run the chiller for at least the next week after all that work!

Hope this was a fun read and provided some information for anyone looking to do the same, and I’d be happy to answer any further specifics if interested.


07/03/2022 Automation Update:
Spent quite a bit of time over the last week trying to find the ideal way to configure the Chiller within the OmniPL. Originally I had it configured as a water feature as described above, but wanted to be able to monitor the return temperature as well. The temp sensor is available and can be read while in service mode, but unfortunately the controller does not expose additional sensors outside of equipment. I tried the chiller as a Solar cooler, but the sensor then acts as a lockout when the cooler is off and the temp is at or above the pool temp. I also considered configuring it as another body of water, but it would have to function as a pump and there are limitations on being able to activate the valve and configure needed interlocks.

I gave up on being able to see return temp outside of service mode (for now until Hayward adds this capability ;), and ultimately configured it as a chiller within the heat/cool setup alongside my gas heater. This functionality was added to the Omni in a recent firmware, v4.3.x.

This works very well and is much simpler, allowing temperature control to set point without having to rely on interlocks, and I can essentially leave the chiller enabled through the summer and it will automatically run as needed.

Pseudomonas or Chem Sensitivity

I'm on year 3 of using our tiny, inflatable hot tub (177 gal.) on our porch during the cold months. Season 1- no issues at all. At the end of season 2, I started to get a rash under my arms after sitting in the hot tub. It wasn't severe and I chalked it up to going to bed right after sitting in the tub and it possibly being heat rash. Here we are at the beginning of season 3 and I learned about pseudomonas. I drained the tub, cleaned all of the components, refilled and rebalanced the water. On the first use, no issues. Now, I've sat in it two more times and the rash is intense.

177 gal. inflatable tub
Replaceable paper filters
Using bromine mini tablets and ph + when needed

What I'm trying to figure out is the following:

1. Why am I the only one experiencing the rash? Two other family members use the tub as well and they have had no issues. I'm wondering if my underlying condition of psoriasis might have something to do with it. I take immune-suppressing drugs for it.
2. Why is the rash only under my arms and nowhere else on the submerged parts of my body?
3. I wonder if I've developed a sensitivity to bromine somehow. I've sat in lots of hot tubs over the years and have never experienced this.

I purchased a container of Ahh-some yesterday and plan to do the purge, refill and rebalance. I hope it works because otherwise, I think I might need to discontinue the use of the tub because this rash is not pleasant.

I read some of @JoyfulNoise posts and have been attempting to find a silver stick that I can use in a tub that doesn't have a traditional set up. I'm wondering if I can let one float in the water?

Importance of TA in SWG pool with automatic acid dosing

Hi all

We have just had a new fibreglass SWG pool installed and I am coming to grips with water chemistry.

The standard recommendation appears to be to keep TA in the 60-80ppm range. We have a ph sensor and an automatic acid doser. It seems that adding TA will likely cause more upward PH drift and the swings in ph you might ordinarily get with low TA would be controlled by the acid doser. So I am thinking adding TA in this instance is not necessary or ideal. However I am not sure about this so wonder what the consensus on here is?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

3 issues in my in ground pool and Jacuzzi.

I have at least three issues in my in ground pool and Jacuzzi.

1. There is a water leak from the pool at the tiles at the waterline when the pool is full. According to a leak detector service, that leak runs around 37 ft.

2. I have air in the strainer housing and in the return jets in the pool and Jacuzzi. In the morning when I check everything out before I turn on the pump the strainer housing next to the pump is empty. There is no water inside.

3. There is backflow from the Jacuzzi each night when the pump is off. The water level goes down about 1/4" a night in the jacuzzi. I did a die test and the water was backflowing from the return jet in the jacuzzi. When the pump is on the jacuzzi is off. Only the main return into the jacuzzi is on and the water is flowing over the waterfall opening into the pool.

We had a leak detector service come out and their report says that the pressure in all the lines are good. They found the 37ft leak in the pool at the tile/waterline. They indicated that the air leaks are from the ball valves on the suction side for the main drain, skimmer, and cleaner. Because of the high cost of all the repairs I decided to get a local pool service tech to look at the plumbing. He replaced the o-ring on one of the J valves as well as the lid on the strainer housing next to the pump that was cracked. This did not stop the air leak. I did the soapy water test on the suction plumbing and found nothing. There is no water under any of the equipment or above ground plumbing.

I decided to fill the pool to the usual level and not add water anymore to see what level the water would stop going down. I turned off the suction line from the skimmer. Every morning I would check the level of the water in the skimmer. Each day it was down around 1/4".

On the 5th or 6th day the skimmer was EMPTY. The water in the skimmer had gone from down about 2.5" to being EMPTY. The water in the pool was below the skimmer opening to the pool. You can hear water gurgling around the skimmer housing.

I believe that there is an underground leak in the skimmer line. That is what is causing the air bubbles as well as the water still leaking below the other leak at the tile line in the pool.

Am I correct?

Here is a link to a youtube vid of the skimmer with sound:
Skimmer & Sound

Wood Hot Tub treatment - are some oxidisers milder?

I have recently bought a wood-fired hot tub and I am voraciously reading posts here and elsewhere about water treatment. There's a lot of (mis)information around and I would hugely appreciate any advice.

I only intend on using the tub once or twice a month and while it always needs to be full of water so the wood remains watertight I am happy to drain and refill before each use. I don't mind bathing in fresh, untreated water; my only concern is keeping algae and mould at bay after each dip and before the next water change.

The manufacturer has advised me not to use chlorine in the tub and has instead advised that I use active oxygen and silver ions because it will be less harsh on the wood. Can this be right? Surely any oxidiser will attack the wood at sufficient concentration and so it is less about which chemical I choose and more about the amount I use?

Do I even need an oxidiser if I'm going to be draining and refilling every 2-3 weeks before each dip? Could I just use an algaecide?

Check System Light On--Inaccurate Salt Reading ProLogic Aqua Plus

Salt reading was 2600 ppm. I added 80 lbs (18,000 gal) System now reads low salt with Check System light on. Chlorinator System Off--check salt level.
T-Cell 15 that's 3.5 years old. Pinch a Penny water analysis reads 3700 ppm and good chlorine level. Chlorine levels read different when the polarity is changed. One reads 1700ppm (+27.36V +4.37A) and the other reads 400ppm (-28.80V -1.92A). Did I ruin my T-Cell or board by adding the salt with the system running? I didn't know that could cause damage. I've always added salt with the system running normally. Or has the T-Cell reached it's end?



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Featured The Ultimate Thermometer

How ultimate? Hey, it’s me!

Since I became a pool owner I’ve been trying to find a good solution for reading both my pool temperature and my outdoor temperature. I’ve been through the obvious ones: floating in the pool, or stuck to a window. But I also had a need for my home automation system (HA) to have those temperatures. I wanted to see my pool’s temp from anywhere in my house and while away, and my HA could do some handy things for me if it had access to reliable indoor and outdoor temps, like turning on/off ceiling fans and citrus tree heaters, alerting me when to close up the house when it gets hot out, etc.

For years I struggled with what I had available: namely my HVAC thermostat, which I can access with my HA, and the local weather report, also available to my HA. But the HVAC was only somewhat accurate, and the local weather was not. It was either off by many degrees, or just unavailable (their server is constantly reporting various errors). I could get at pool temperature in the house through ScreenLogic, but only while the pool’s pump was running, which is as little as four hours a day! And I couldn’t get that temperature into my HA software.

So I sniffed around on the ‘net for devices that might work, and found a few. There are digital floating pool thermometers. I could have probably gotten one connected to my HA. And there are all sorts for indoor digital probes that can talk to your computer via wifi or bluetooth. But there was always something missing from these solutions… until I stumbled onto these guys.

I ordered one of their products immediately and got to work. In short order I realized I shouldn’t have gotten their wi-fi solution, so I returned it for one that connects directly to my ethernet LAN. Basically this device can connect to multiple one-wire temperature sensors and then report temperature readings for all of them via a built-in web server. This server can provide a nice looking (and customizable) web page, or raw data in XML format.

So… back up into the attic I go! I figured since I was going up there (again!) I might as well make it worth my while. I ordered a spool of ethernet cable and six temperature sensors. I ran cable from my office (where I installed the Control By Web gizmo) to a junction box in the attic. From there I ran cable to various locations in my house. The one-wire sensors (which are actually three wires?) can be connected in parallel or in a star topography, or any combination. I ran cable from the junction box to four rooms (great room, master bedroom, office and garage) and one outside under an eve.

I eventually also figured out how to get a sensor in the pool (more on that later). So I had six sensors total.

I then programmed by HA software to periodically poll and parse the gizmo for temperature data. I have it polling every 5 minutes and monitoring all six temps. If they change, my HA updates various displays throughout my house. I can get those displays on my computers or iPad or my phone (or any web browser). One section of my HA interface looks like this. The temps get rounded up to the nearest integer:

ha interface 1.png

Another version gives me more detail, including the actual temp to two decimal places:

ha interface 2.png

I repurposed an old iPhone 5 and mounted it in a cabinet over the counter in my laundry room where I test my pool water. The same iPhone also has the Pool Math app on it! I installed that 120V outlet just for the phone charger! This cubby is “Pool Central.” My HA software allows me to create these custom screens in any shape and with any info and any touch controls. Brrr, my pool is cold. And the ice cube icon is telling me it’s going to be freezing again tonight.


I used my HA software to create the ultimate bedside temperature display, and I run it on my first iPad. As in the original iPad. Credit to the developers of my HA software. Not only did they create something that allows me so much customization, they’re still supporting an app that runs on a 12-year-old iPad!!

ipad 1.jpg

I could fill another thread with what this display can do. (So I will!) Down the right side are my six sensor readings: Inside (great room), Master bedroom, Office, Garage, Pool and Outside. The upper left area is my HVAC: indoor temperature along with heat and cool thermostat settings. Below that I’ve got sunrise and sunset times for the day, then some HVAC touch controls. Below those is local weather data from NOAA: day-of-the-week initials, high and low temp forecasts plus day and night rain forecasts.

The surrounding spaces are filled with icons that appear for various reasons:
- when my irrigation is running,
- if it’s going to freeze tonight, or later this week,
- if it’s going to rain today or tomorrow or later this week,
- weather advisories,
- HVAC states,
- the state of my garage door,
- if my landline phones are silenced,
- if my iDevices are silenced,
- my Roomba status,
- if I forgot to reconnect my pool vac,
- if my citrus heaters are on (triggered by the outdoor temp sensor)
and a slew of other stuff I might want to know when I’m drifting off or waking up.

I even figured out how to programmatically dim the display for nighttime. It beats the heck out of my old clock that could barely manage outside temp and a little cloud that was supposed to tell me it was going to rain, or something. I dunno, it was always showing a little cloud!

It’s and iPad, so it's also a touchscreen, and I can control all sorts of things:
- garage door,
- ceiling fans,
- window shade position,
- outdoor speakers,
- small animal defense system,
- phone and iDevice silencing, etc.

I also get any messages or warnings that my HA system is programmed to deliver.

This particular day, for example, it was going to rain, and freeze later at night, there was a weather advisory, the sun was going to set at 6:06pm, my phones were silenced, the small animal defense system was off, and it was going to rain some day this week, and some night this week, and temps would get to freezing at some point this week. Oh, and it was partly cloudy outside (and it was actually partly cloudy outside)!

ipad 2.jpg

Ha, I know what you’re thinking, but I’m just getting started!

Copper(?) mystery... need advice

Hi! Looking for advice to understand if I'm doing anything incorrectly. A little background...

We live in the Phoenix area and we have a pool that completed build in Aug. 2020. Over the course of the last 2+ years, I've done all of my own maintenance and kept the water chemistry in balance. I monitor our pool frequently and the water has always been prestine (with the exception of a major dust storm or three). We have a SWG and I never use shock products or tabs, only liquid chlorine if necessary (exception to tab usage is when our SWG died prematurely towards the end of summer and needed a quick stop gap for a few weeks until replacement). Due to the SWG, our pH rises constantly so it's always a battle to keep it in check but not surprising. Our fill water is no better since it usually comes out of the tap at about pH of 8. Since our fill water has high calcium content, our CH has also increased over the last two years and the last reading was about 1400 ppm. I know that's high but I mainly monitor to keep my CSI in check so I never suffer the scaling effects that so many people in Phoenix have issues with. All that to say that the pool water never has an issue going acidic... it is always high so I generally fight to keep calcium scaling and I'm never concerned with etching issues.

That being said, our builder had to drain our pool yesterday for a repair to fix a rusting rebar stain. Once I drained the pool, I immediately noticed that there is a general blusish-green cast over many parts of the pebble plaster surfaces. It was widespread and almost blotchy in some spots. You can't really see it much when the pool is filled because we have a very light/white color pebble and the blueish-green blends in with the water. The difference is very noticible in the repair patch since it's white compared to the surrounding pebble. The tech said that it's very likely the copper is being etched away from the heater core due to acidic conditions and depositing itself on the pebble. This is where I scratch my head in disbelief because I KNOW for a fact that my water never drops below pH 7. I'm constantly battling to control rising pH, not falling!

I'm out of ideas as to where the copper came or is coming from. Our town water quality reports that the copper in the water is 0.17 ppm so it can't be the fill water. Any ideas? I'm just worried that our heater core is somehow disintegrating for some reason.

Thanks in advance for your help!


Artesian Grand Cayman elite- heater may be dry Error Code

Hello and happy holidays to my pool peeps….. hope you are doing well-

I have a Artesian Grand Cayman Elite 2020- i have had some issues recently with “Heater May be dry” - i have pulled the filters and removed the front panel so i can access the pumps and wiring….. i have rebooted a couple of times, loosened the unions on the pump to the right of the heater which i am certain is the recirc pump- i hear a buzzing - same sound your garbage disposal makes when something is blocking it…. That hum….so my NON professional opinion is that there is something blocking the recirc impeller….. oh and the impeller pump is very very hot as if it has been trying to boot itself up …… i don’t want to have to remove it but i am guessing that is my only option….. any ideas…..

is there a reset on the impeller pump


DE Filter Cleaning (Repair) Cost

I help maintain an indoor pool for our HOA. We are getting a good amount of DE in the pool recently. The company that services the pool charges $175 for an annual inspection and cleaning of the DE filter. They were notified of the problem with DE getting into the pool and sent us an estimate for $420. $175 for filter cleaning seems reasonable. Would replacing grids increase the cost to $420.? And this is before they even know if any grids are damaged or how many need to be replaced. Just trying to get a sense if this seems to be fair pricing. Thanks for any input on this.

New Plumbing installed Pipes Leaking!! PB says this is fine???!

Hi All! Posting here for saving my sanity! And hopefully to get some responses to help me and any others with this issue down the road!

Our pool builder ran the pool internals and stub outs for the pool months ago - capped and pressure tested them holding at 25psi with no leaks for month +
We have 3 pumps the main pool pump attached to the filter/ returns is not staying pressurized And one of the water feature pumps is not staying pressurized either. The 3rd pump IS holding the air through the whole line from pad to the pool.

The pool builder response to this was “This is very normal when pressuring with air. There are many unions on the system. Unfortunately we can’t pressure with water because of the weather.”

I’ve looked around through some threads and I’m confident that since this is a closed system it shouldn’t be leaking!? Water or air tested.. and should stay pressurized within 2-3psi to account for temp changes? Could anyone shed some insight if I’m mistaken and should I hold the PB accountable to come figure out where these leaks are? As you can see within 2-3 days the gauges are down to zero PSI.

Look forward to any help and insight anyone can provide on this!!
Thank you so much!!


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Reactions: DavidArmenB

Hi y’all

I‘m in Dallas/Fort Worth and “enjoying“ the beginning of a custom gunite pool build. I’ve previously had pools at two other homes, but this is the first that we’ve had built. Target completion, Spring 2023.
The wisdom in the TFP forums is incredible. Your generous information sharing rivals any forum I’ve ever seen. I look forward to being able to offer my experience after we get farther into our build and, of course, after we begin to maintain our new pool.
Thanks, everyone!
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Reactions: Newdude

Timing the Resurfacing of Concrete Deck in Pool Renovation

I'm going to do a pool renovation (replaster, new tile, new coping). I am looking at adding some decking and plan to resurface (Sundek, for example) the existing concrete deck. I'm trying to determine the best time to resurface the concrete deck, before the demolition and replacement of existing coping and tile, or after installation of new coping and tile? I've rec'd suggestions from contractors for both scenarios, so it's making it hard to decide.

Quick Chem Correction

Hello All,

New to the forum and new pool owner - have learned a tremendous amount of information in a short amount of time.

Hopefully quick question -

About a month ago we "closed" the pool here in North Texas. My closing steps (based on recommendation from previous owner) were to balance the chemicals and when the salt cell shows the red "cold water" light, to remove the SWG and put in a dummy pipe, and cover the pool with the cover they left behind (thick mesh with tons of anchors around pool deck). After that, add ~1/2 gal liquid chlorine once or twice a month and run pump periodically to distribute chemicals/filter water.

Long story short, the cold snap didn't last, pool warmed back up, turned green (under the cover). I shocked the pool with liquid chlorine and reinstalled the SWG to clear things up until it gets cold enough once and for all, to keep the cell turned off.

Fast forward to last week and friends decided they want to host a party at our house and use the hot tub to which I said no problem.

I do not have a test kit yet - we bought the house in August and I just left the settings as the previous owner had set up, with weekly runs to a local mom & pop pool store for a water test, and everything remained fine. Planning to buy one going into the spring. The test strips I have seem relatively accurate when compared with pool store figures, which I know can be questionable, but we're working with what we've got, and their business is based on word of mouth so I trust them a bit more than I would a big chain.

Just got back from the pool store with test results and the big question is, with my current CYA:FC ratio - is this safe to get in, and if not, is this possible to correct in ~48 hours? Water is crystal clear at this point.

FC: 6.47
TC: 8.86
CC: 2.39
pH: 7.6
TA: 114
CH: 461
CYA: 5

Mitigating steps taken since getting these results
- Dropped IC output to 35%/1%
- Added 3 lbs CYA (what I had on hand)

Added the CYA in hopes that it will tie up some of the chlorine and move my CYA:FC ratio in the right direction. I may also peel back a part of the cover tomorrow to get some sunlight on the water to hopefully burn things off.

Appreciate ya'lls input.

Questions regarding flow sensor, salt cell operating voltage, schematic – Cubby/AutoPilot

Hi there, I have a few general questions regarding SWG’s.

First, I have AutoPilot Cubby with an AC5 salt generator cell. This is the analogue precursor to the AutoPilot Nano.

It has stopped generating chlorine, and the blinking pattern doesn’t match that in any of the troubleshooting documentation that I’ve been able to find.

My first general question is about the flow sensor. It’s a two wire cable and a very small, so I believe it just contains a flow switch, no other sensors. The flow switch appears to be something like a reed switch that’s closed by a magnet on the vane when the water is flowing through the pipe. Is that all this is? Is it just a “open/closed” switch that provides an open or closed contact to the control panel – it’s not a Hall effect sensor is it?

If so, as part of a testing regime I should just be able to jumper the contacts on the bottom of the control panel to make it look like there is water flowing through the system, correct?

I’m not planning on doing this for any significant length of time, it’s just part of a test.

My second question is what should the DC output voltage to the RC5 salt generator cell be? Am I expecting 10V, 20V, 30V? Does anyone have any idea?

And my third question would be; does anyone have a schematic for the old Cubby, AquaCal/Autopilot control unit?

My thanks to anyone who can offer any help or information.


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Reactions: markayash

Featured Have algae on walls - test shows high TA

I live near Dallas, where the water temp in the summer is 85 (and we have a lot of shade on the pool). I slammed the pool early this summer and it looked good. In July we had a leak in the skimmer plumbing & got it repaired. The CYA had to be raised since we added so much water. Again - levels & water looked good. I had been using Walmart bleach (7.5%) and adding acid often. We have a spa which spills into the pool which aerates it some. In the last few weeks we got algae on the walls and steps. I tried to get the chlorine levels up, but can't. My TA is high (140) [it had been consistently around 80-90] and pH has been lower than usual (7.4). Yesterday, in reading on this site, I realized that Walmart has added some "fabric protection" to the bleach so I returned it and bought "Pool Chlorinating Liquid" from Lowes. I don't know if this messed up my numbers or not.

21k gallon plaster pool
TA 140
pH 7.3 (hard to read exact level between 7.2 & 7.5 on test)
Calcium 360
FC & TC 8

Should I further lower the pH to 7.0-7.2 then run the spa jets to speed up the aeration? And after the TA level is corrected, can I fix the pH (either w/ 20 Mule Team or acid depending on the #)? Then once the values are correct, can I slam the pool (with more brushing) to get rid of the algae?

Also - we put in the pool in 2004 and it has not been resurfaced. Can that be part of the problem? I found this site years ago after repeatedly having to drain my pool because of faulty instructions from Leslie's.