Hi All, trying to determine if its time to replace the Intellitouch panel electronics. About a month ago after a thunderstorm, my inside wall controller started blinking and making a high-pitched squeal. I disconnected it, planning to diag when I had time. All else was working fine. A week later, the pool pump wasn't running and every led was lit on the Intellitouch panel. Resetting the breakers cleared the fault and returned to the Auto led setting with all equipment returning to the usual schedule. Another week and Texas got pounded by huge storms. The Electronics breaker was popped. Reset it and it stays in but no leds come on. Equipment does not run on time so for the moment I rewired the Pentair VSF pump and SWG direct and they are on their own schedule.

In the meantime, I checked the Intellitouch power supply 12, 18 and 24V are reading 14, 22, and 29 so assume all is well there. If I hold down the Reset button on the Intellitouch panel, the Auto Led lights up and continuing to hold the button results in almost all of the Leds coming on one at a time. When I release the button, no Leds stay lit.

If I'm looking at an Intellitouch replacement, I believe there is a replacement electronic module for this panel that drops into my existing breaker panel. Has anyone does this and, if so, how easy is the reprogramming process? I'll be DIYing this. Pentair notes the following options. "PART NUMBERS 522045, 522046, 523218, 523530 - LEGACY SYSTEMS MANUFACTURED PRIOR TO 2012". Not sure how the options' capabilities compare. I currently use my phone a the Screenlogic Connect app to monitor and control but it's not essential. I just need reliable auto control over all the equipment again, preferably using the inside wall controller for regular use of lights/spa/temp etc, and the outside panel for maintenance settings.

A quick pricing search. I just picked one of the many suppliers here, assuming they are similar in price
522045 $1000 (Pentair IntelliTouch Pool or Spa to IntelliCenter Control System Upgrade Kit | 522045)
522046 $1400 (Pentair IntelliTouch Pool and Spa to IntelliCenter Control System Upgrade Kit)
523218 $1451 (Pentair 523218 Intellicenter Upgrade For Dual Equip System Before 2012)
523530 Didn't find a price

Thanks, Blair

I replaced a seven year old IC-20 with an IC-40 about 10 days ago. The flow switch on the old IC-20 had failed and given its age I decided to simply replace the whole cell. I went with the IC-40 this time since the price difference was only about $100 and I liked the idea running a shorter interval each hour than the IC-20 required to generate the same amount of chlorine. Installation was simple and the new IC-40 functioned perfectly until this weekend. Today I noticed a red light on "cell status" indicator on the IntellipH Acid Dispenser and sure enough, the cell was totally dark, with no lights visible at all. I shut everything down, cut all power to the system, unplugged and replugged the salt cell cord into the IntellipH Acid Dispenser, and then restarted the system -- the IntellipH Acid Dispenser "cell status light" opened at green, the IC-40 lights flashed on briefly, both were encouraging, but then IC-40 went dark again and the cell status light on the IntellipH box went back to red.

Anyone have any thoughts? I replaced the prior IC-20 seven years ago too, it's a simple job and I followed the book again this time. It worked perfectly for over a week but now this. The pool is clear and clean, the water chemistry is fine except the chlorine is a little low of course. Other than that everything seems to be perfect with both chemistry and equipment. The only two things that makes sense to me are (1) I just got a bad cell, which I know is possible but statistically unlikely, or (b) the IntellipH Acid Dispenser itself just randomly failed right now, a week after the new salt cell got installed, but that seems like an odd coincidence too plus -- based on how it displays and operates -- everything about that little control center appears to be working normally.

I'm looking for suggestions/options on an equivalent replacement for our Single Speed SuperFlo 1HP with a VS pump (ran pump 16hrs/day last year to keep pool heated and clear, electricy was crazy, so was the sound)
Our pool is 10k, 1 return & skimmer, pump is located ~1ft higher than water surface, about 30' away from return / 50' from skimmer.

We have a hayward salt cell; and for mostly timer, easy schedule; heater fireman switch, i have installed a Pentair IntelliConnect.

What I've seen as a close match to size and power would be the Pentair SuperFlo VS (listed at Doheny's): Pentair SuperFlo VS

Are there any other options that would pair well with my other equipment (salt cell, intelliconnect). I'm not opposed to just using the intelliconnect for on/off and fireman switch if a hayward would pair better with our cell and run the schedule from the pump's interface. We would like to keep the price point around the $1.4k-$1.6k range

Thanks in advance

I have to say, I was hesitant to purchase this pump. My Pentair pump lasted 9 years, and was a good soldier. That being said, I just replaced my first floor HVAC, and a new pump wasn't exactly in the budget. The 5-year warranty was compelling, and I figured I'd give it a try. The B&D pump was easy to install, as the plumbing interfaces are identical to my failed Pentair Intelliflo VS. The exterior is made of rigid plastic and the motor is a powder coated aluminum exterior. The Pentair exterior was painted, all of which was coming off when removed. The programming interface is easy to use and understand, where as the Intelliflo was incredibly frustrating. Most noticeably and perhaps importantly, it is whisper quiet. Perhaps my old pump had aged, but at 1500RPM, I cannot hear the B&D pump. Note, I do not work for Black and Decker.

All of this said, if anyone has novel approaches to automation, I'm all ears. They do sell a secondary controller that includes relay connections. I'd love to be able to see if it's operating, and get alerts if it goes offline. I could probably accomplish that with a flo meter, as well. I imagine automation solutions are in their product pipeline, given the popularity of the product.

Here's a video of the pump, operating: Login to view embedded media

Hi everyone, I am in the EARLY stages of trying to get AqualinkD running so I can connect, monitor, etc. with Home Assistant. I got the recommended USB adaptor and can get data to show on it when running this script in the instructions - "sudo -s eval 'stty raw -echo < /dev/ttyUSB0; cat -vte /dev/ttyUSB0'", and I think I got it to install okay, but I am seeing this error in my log:

Error: RS Serial: Can't lock (/dev/ttyUSB0) (11): Resource temporarily unavailable
Error: AqualinkD: Error Aqualink setting serial port: /dev/ttyUSB0

Now, when I connected the USB plug, both my RS485 ports were used, so I just piggybacked onto one of them, keeping the original wires in there and putting in the two USB wires in there as well. Is this not allowed? I am wondering if there is some sort of mix up since there are two wires coming out of the RS485 D+ and D- ports.

Is this sort of a iAqualink OR AqualinkD type of thing or can I have both running? Clearly I have no idea what I am doing so any help would be great. Thanks!

My TA is 110. In the pool math app, it says reduce PH to7.0 and aerate to increase PH. What is meant by aerate?

Hi all,

Okay, let's start by saying no electrical knowledge Hayward 250fdn heater AO Error. Just clicking when turning on, nothing else. Then just sits for a bit then goes to AO Error.

Following attached picture flow chart:

Is blower damaged? What does damaged mean, looks fine to me, nothing out of the ordinary, so NO.
Blower Vacuum switch wires 'look' fine to me, nothing that sticks out, so NO.
Vacuum tube- Don't see anything wrong with but did try replacing it just in case, same result, so I assume it's fine, so NO.
Voltage plug - I assume it should be 120?, if so that is correct.
Blower Ohms - Tested the Ohms on the blower (actually have a second used one as well) got the correct Ohms for each, and tried both, same result, so YES
Checked the voltage following their pictures got around 110, so YES
Says to replace the vacuum switch- that was actually one of the first things I tried.

Vacuum switch attached pic - I don't have that metal plate, what is its purpose?
On another note, my blower connects to the ICB board with a connector, see attached pic, not sure why, but it doesn't fit without it.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

I'm getting ready to install a GPC 210 to my existing pool and the installation manual says to use 2lb. check valves on both the inlet and outlet lines. I assume that refers to the cracking pressure or psi required to open the valve. It's actually not easy to find that information when searching for check valves online, but everything I can find lists the cracking pressure as either .5 psi or 5 psi.
I e-mailed Glacier and got this unhelpful response: "You are going to want to use a 2lb check valve or the pressure won't flow properly. They are available at most hardware stores." Does anyone have experience dealing with this issue or know where I can get a 2 lb check valve?

TL;DR - Very old pump is probably fried. Looking for a similar replacement. It's a Hayward Self Priming Super Pump, 1.5 HP, Model #C48L2N134B1

Hello! First of all thank you all so much for your help last year in getting my very old pool up and running for the last part of the season. I was able to open it this year and get it cleared up for swimming within a week. I during the off season, I went through the system and disassembled the plumbing parts to see exactly what I was working with. I ended up replacing some old piping, replaced plumbers tape to get better seals, and some of the pieces of the DE filter that were gross from neglect or leaking.

Now there's a fun new problem... We had a storm blow through last night that might have fried the pump. That is the current working theory at least. Control panel to the pump is on with nothing tripped, it indicates the pump should be on, but the pump is not firing at all. We turned off the pump at control panel and turned it back on. We turned off the whole system at the circuit breaker and turned it back on. No dice. It was working fine until this morning. I noticed as I was going through the system in the off season that whoever last messed with the pump wiring did not do a stellar job keeping the wiring together. They ended up using a hose clamp to keep the coating on the wires (see photo attached to post). Now the fun begins trying to find a replacement pump for this system. It's OLD. Like, they discontinued basically all of the parts, pre-2008 old. Does the community have any recommendations about what to replace it with? I saw that there are more efficient pumps, but I'm not an electrician and I was wondering if that would require replacing the whole control panel and all too?

About the pool: unknown gallons (best guess is 36,000), in-ground, vinyl liner, Hayward DE4820 Pro-Grid filter, salt water chlorine generator. Let me know if you need more information!

We noticed these wrinkles forming from our integrated steps and moving towards our skimmer box towards the end of last season.
We contacted our builder (pool was just over a yr old at that point), and they took photos. They returned today for more photos to send to the GLI rep.

Any clue what could be causing these?
Our chemistry has been pretty spot on (thanks to this great group at TFP), and we do not have any leaks (no water level drop from when we noticed to opening this year).

We bought a house with this pool cleaner and as you can see, the suction hose is plugged into the port under the skimmer basket (we can’t run both at the same time) at the far end and it only reaches halfway. Is there any reason I can’t get a longer hose? I see a suction port with a spring loaded hatch that’s not being used in the middle of the pool on the wall, however it doesn’t have any suction with the pump running… I am wondering if the pipe broke and they capped it so they are using the skimmer basket port as a suction instead?

Tia

Came home today to find water in hot tub completely drained. Water is just spraying out of the hot tub jets. Pool level is normal. What problem should I be looking for? I assume there is something wrong with valves or pumps.

Pentair pumps / controllers if that matters. Pool is about 5 years old and this has never happened before.

Hi everyone!

Looking for help as I am in the dark when it comes to most things pool related. I purchased a central Florida home with an underground quartz finished pool that is now ~18 years old and my wife and I are thinking about redoing almost everything including resurfacing, waterline tiles, deck, screen, adding a heater, lights, etc... But one thing that we want to accomplish, since it won't be cheap, is wanting it to come out looking like a new pool and not a remodel.

We currently have 3" think textured and painted concrete for the pool deck and have been told that we have two options:
1. Use pool remodel coping like the following: Limestone Coping - 4x9 Shell Stone Limestone Remodeling Coping - Stone-Mart
2. Break up the concrete and use new 1" coping: 6x12 SHELL STONE Tumbled Limestone COPING - Stone-Mart

So I had this 'genius' idea, what if we just replace the skimmer and move it up 3" so that the new 1" pavers work without the need for the remodeling coping. We would be resurfacing and retiling the pool anyway so everything could be adjusted up 3". One of the contractors I contacted said that was fine and that they could do that. The other said, emphatically, that it should not be done as it would lead to leaks as the pools waterline was not intended to be raised the additional 3".

I'm not an expert here... at all... so I need some guidance. My friend told me that the skimmer should probably be replaced anyway if we're going to do all of this work on an 18 year old pool so I figured I'd look into this option. Above all else, I want the job to be done right so I need to know what is and isn't a viable option here.

Any help is appreciated!

Hi everyone,

Our pool plaster (plain white) is over 17 years old, and it appears that it's time to re-do it. We now have some dark stains in the deep end that appear to be rust and I'm thinking that it's from the rebar underneath. A chlorine puck is not fading them at all, so I don't think it's anything organic.

I'm in Southern California, and I'd appreciate any recommendations on contractors (if that's allowed here). Also, are there any specific questions I should be asking when talking to contractors? I'm not really sure what to be looking for as I talk with people. So far I've talked to a couple of contractors and one would be chipping it off and the other would be using a hydroblast technique. Not sure if one method is preferable to the other. Is there a minimum warranty I should be insisting on? Anything that would help me make a good decision on who I go with would be helpful.

Thank you,
Greg

Hello all!

I am getting flame rollout from around the ignitor on my Raypak.

I have taken apart everything and thoroughly cleaned it, I have checked connections on the ignitor components and I am still getting visible flame rollout from the ignitor area.

From the picture you can see where they are rolling out.

Any suggestions about what I can try? Could it be a fault with the ignitor? a hole or something maybe?

Hello everyone,

I found out I have a small leak on the tube going upward from my pomp to my filter. I try putting it tighter but it didn't help. Looking at the installation, it seems there's some kind of silicone that was applied at the installation. How do I fix this?

Thank you!

Hopefully some of the chemistry gurus can help me here. I have a 2-year-old pool it's been very consistent for the last 2 years. I've had to add about 16 oz of muriatic acid every three days. I've never had the pH go down. I opened the pool a couple weeks ago pH was high added 16 oz of muriatic acid to get pH down to 7.2. it slowly drifted up to 7.8 two days ago. Today pH measured 7.2..... I've never had my pH go down. At the same time my chlorine sank from 7 to .5 with no CC's. The temperature of the water has been high 50s to low 60s. But today it took it up to 67 as the air temperature was low '80s. Water looks perfectly clear. I'm scratching my head on what might be going on thinking ammonia as I did add a pound of 65% Cal hypo after low chlorine reading and about an hour later my chlorine was 3.5 (should have been 7.5). I'm using Cal hypo because I like to increase my calcium level to 450+ to make my CSI happier.

Fc 3.5
Cc 0
Ph7.2
Ta 50
Ch350
Cya 70
Salt 3150
Temp 67
CSI -1.12

Hi folks, long-time listener, first time caller here. I'm looking for opinions / thoughts on Poolside Tech's pool automation system called The Attendant. From what I've read, it has an edge on other automation systems like Hayward, Pentair, and Jandy - a main point being that they can work with any of those (and other) systems. Our pool installer actually installed it on his pool and said it's incredible with the level of control you get - and it works with basically any brand of equipment you have (they call it vendor agnostic). So you can use your Hayward Pump with Pentair Salt system with Jandy valves - and The Attendant can control them all.

We use voice control and home automation a lot. The Attendant currently has Alexa control, but I'm hoping they get Google Assistant built in soon - with more commands (for example: "What temperature is the water right now?" would be great).

We're considering getting it but not sure if it would be better to go with the Hayward OmniPL (we currently have a Hayward VS pump). Does anyone have experience with The Attendant? Pros / Cons? Any reason one of the "big three" automation systems would be better to go with?

Hello,

I pulled my light fixture yesterday because I could see some water behind the glass. Less than a year ago I replace the bulb and put on a brand new gasket. I was pretty careful to follow all of the steps properly. Because the gasket was new, I'm wondering if my fixture is now leaking. Before I put on a new gasket and put the fixture back in the water to check for air bubbles escaping, I wanted to post this picture of the inside back of the fixture and ask if this looks like where the problem could be. There's a thin black layer of 'something' that seems to have been flaking/chipping off over the years and I don't know if this is a leak spot or not.

Thank you,
Greg

Just bought a home that has a pool/spa combo. The pool is close to 20 years old I believe. I have an old halogen 200 or 250 watt bulb (hayward light) I would like to uprgade it to an LED light fixture but I can not find and upgrades based off the light i have.
o
Could someone please tell me the model of this light. OR better yet what model type led may I replace it with?

thank you

Well Amazon just delivered it.

It came in a box, in box, in a box. Got the Russian dolls unpacked and here it is.

Hi friends, is there any issue with running my cell at 100%? I have been running it for 6 hours at 100% which is keeping up with the chlorine demand, but is the cell going to have issues running long term at full capacity?

Hi,
Today I started getting service code 170 and the pool pump isn't working anymore. Attaching pics of the wiring board.

Can someone please suggest what do I need to replace to resolve the error code 170? As per the manual, error code 170 indicates "Possible Front board service condition or unit not correctly wired to 120 VAC."

Searching through the forum, my understanding is that I need to replace the salt sensor but I don't know where that is! My salt cell isn't working so we have been using chlorine tablets for the past one year. Is there a way to not use salt cell system, and start the pool again?

Appreciate any help! Thank you!

I have 2 variable speed pumps that run during spa operation. Both pumps run around 2800rpm and are located approximately 10’ from my spa. With one pump running it’s mildly annoying but with both running it’s moderately distracting and takes away from the relaxation of the spa. Furthermore, it’s loud enough that normal tones of voice are tough to hear which results in louder voices which sucks for my neighbors. Does anyone have any remedies besides a large fence/wall/gate in front of it? Unfortunately, I don’t have room for a brick wall to close it off. Don’t mind spending money to fix the problem, but there just aren’t a lot of great options out there from what I can find. Any companies that build custom sound absorbing enclosures that still allow for proper airflow through the pump motor? I’ve seen different versions of THESE but they don’t really have any sound absorbing qualities.

Thanks!

Greetings folks !!!!

The PoolMath application recently underwent a major update, transitioning from an older mobile development framework to a newer one. This shift was essential due to the discontinuation of support for the previous framework, necessitating a move to a more advanced and supported framework. The update involved significant behind-the-scenes work to convert existing projects and update dependencies, ensuring the application stays up-to-date with the latest standards.

In short, PoolMath will get a new look while functioning mostly the same.

We were able to add descriptions to all the chemicals listed which will help many while learning. For example, that trichlor/pucks add CYA, instead of only selecting trichlor without knowing.

The full rollout is beyond our control and we don't have an ETA. Currently some Android beta testers have been updated (myself included) and the rest will follow at some point.

None of us likes change, so believe me when I say we get it. We appreciate everyone's understanding and patience as we get used to the new look and work out any kinks.

TiA.

Hello,

I recently replaced my old 15' round AGP with a 16x24 Doughboy. I also got a new filter and pump - the pump is a Powerline XP I, which is double insulated.

My previous pool was bonded, but I have read that double insulated pumps do not require bonding. I found this exception in the NEC code 680.26(B):
Exception: Metal parts of listed equipment incorporating an approved system of double insulation shall not be bonded.

1. Double-Insulated Water Pump Motors. Where a double-insulated water pump motor is installed under the provisions of this rule, a solid 8 AWG copper conductor of sufficient length to make a bonding connection to a replacement motor.....

My question is: Can I save myself a ton of money on supplies and labor for an electrician and skip the bonding wire installation if I do not plan on replacing the pump with a NON double insulated pump?

Thanks,
Lisa

I am a building automation guy with a fairly decent HVAC background, but this one on my own pool has me stymied. Up to this point, I have replaced the ignition controller and the gas valve. I see several attempts to ignite and then it just locks out.

I see the hot surface igniter heat up, I hear the ignition controller attempt to energize the gas valve. I see my meter fluctuate for half a second, but never really registers 24VAC to the valve. When I disconnect the common/ground directly on the gas valve, I have 24VAC through the coil of the gas valve for about 5 seconds. I'm guessing the flame failure is working as it should in this case and cycles the ignition, since the valve is essentially not wired.

I have a 100VA 24VAC transformer that I wired directly to the gas valve and confirmed that it opens. I tried using this same transformer to power the entire low voltage side of the boiler (disconnected factory transformer), but did not help.

I tried jumping the common/ground of the valve straight to ground also. Just makes no sense to me. Guessing I need to check that the heat call is constant to ignition controller. Not really sure how the gas valve input on the universal control power interface works.

Any ideas?

The only thread I found with a potential answer was no longer active.

How can I adapt the molded in hose barbs to rigid pvc? I saw someone put a piece of hose to the fitting with a hose clamp and then used a barb to pvc coupling as pictured but it didn’t give me a good feeling longevity wise.

I have a boxed 24'x52" Wilbar replacement wall that I would like to sell. My question is if it would fit any 24'x52" pool frame by any manufacturer?