Yellow Algae

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OfficialJohnM

Member
Jun 6, 2023
19
Orange Park, FL
Pool Size
25000
I live in Northeast Florida so I'm aware yellow algae is pervasive in humid climates. This is my second experience with yellow algae in the last 2 weeks. The first trip consisted of multiple visits to Ace and Pinch a Penny until I finally found something that works. Ace recommended Yellow Treat which didn't do anything. Tried then triple shocking the pool which also didn't work. Went to Pinch a Penny and picked up Suncoast Algae Eater which cleared it up. Just noticed spotting of yellow algae again after we had some trees removed in the backyard. I bought Stop Yellow this time and I'm going to follow the directions. #1 I don't understand why I keep having this problem I check my FC, PH and alkalinity at least 2 times a week. #2 Should I start adding All In One Algaecide? Its supposedly non-metallic and I'm concerned with my kids hair turning green.
 
Welcome to TFP!!!

I would slow down, and NOT add any non-recommended chemicals...will save you money and headache.


We follow the Slam process to clear algae...Link-->SLAM Process

To do a SLAM, and properly maintain a pool, you need a good test kit, here are our recommended test kits. I'd order one now. Link-->Test Kits Compared

If you need proof this works, check this out...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

Season 1 Showtime GIF by The Chi
 
Algaecide only works when added before you have algae. The only way to eliminate algae is via the SLAM method.


You have algae because your water chemistry is out of balance. At times, your pool does not have enough free chlorine, simple as that.
 
Thank you everyone. Wanted to write a proper update after checking my levels. 25,000 gallon pool, IG vinyl, sand filter and I use chlorine tablets. I've seen the SLAM method mentioned multiple times but the person that worked on my pool when we bought the house installed a chlorinator. I have limited understanding of liquid chlorine but its not stabilized and I would have to learn a whole new method of keeping up with the pool.

I checked the pool first thing this morning to see how it looked and I don't see anything that represents algae. Later this afternoon post chemical test I shocked the pool and brushed the bottom. I can't tell if its algae or pollen because its pushing something around that's green/dark yellow.

FC- 1.79
TC- 0
pH- 7.5
Alkalinity- 77
CA- 36
Iron- 0
Copper- 0
Phosphate- 411 ppb (I have been adding phosfree 3 cups weekly but it leaves a film in my skimmer so I have since stopped using it)
 
Pool store results are less than accurate, so it’s hard to say what you should do.
I recommend reviewing the recommended test kits, so that you can be in control your own destiny, testing-wise.
Test Kits Compared

I’m afraid it’s very hard to make the TFP methods, and SLAM in particular, work for you if you can’t self-test.

But let’s imagine your results are accurate, they show a FC level below the minimum threshold of the FC/CYA chart.
FC/CYA Levels
Your pool is living in algae-land, my friend.
 
Both the Yellow Out and Stop Yellow are Sodium Bromide. It is likely you have a Bromine pool now. You will have significant issues because of this. The chlorine you add, in whatever form, will be used to change the bromide to bromine. It is not stabilized, and thus is quickly eliminated by UV. The Bromide does not go away easily.

 
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Pool store results are less than accurate, so it’s hard to say what you should do.
I recommend reviewing the recommended test kits, so that you can be in control your own destiny, testing-wise.
Test Kits Compared

I’m afraid it’s very hard to make the TFP methods, and SLAM in particular, work for you if you can’t self-test.

But let’s imagine your results are accurate, they show a FC level below the minimum threshold of the FC/CYA chart.
FC/CYA Levels
Your pool is living in algae-land, my friend.
I get that it's a little low it usually runs about 3ppm I trust Ace Hardware's test more than I trust a pool store. I don't see how my home test kit is any different than what the pool store does they put droppers in a tube. I check the basics every few days and once a week I go to Ace.
 
Both the Yellow Out and Stop Yellow are Sodium Bromide. It is likely you have a Bromine pool now. You will have significant issues because of this. The chlorine you add, in whatever form, will be used to change the bromide to bromine. It is not stabilized, and thus is quickly eliminated by UV. The Bromide does not go away easily.

I have seen your posts about this and unfortunately I'm not draining the pool at this time.
 
Both the Yellow Out and Stop Yellow are Sodium Bromide. It is likely you have a Bromine pool now. You will have significant issues because of this. The chlorine you add, in whatever form, will be used to change the bromide to bromine. It is not stabilized, and thus is quickly eliminated by UV. The Bromide does not go away easily.

If bromine has NEVER been added to an outdoor pools in the form of tabs, shocking the pool (5+ppm of chlorine in a single dose), added on sunny days, will tend to remove the bromine/bromide. However, repeated doses may be needed.
 
If bromine has NEVER been added to an outdoor pools in the form of tabs, shocking the pool (5+ppm of chlorine in a single dose), added on sunny days, will tend to remove the bromine/bromide. However, repeated doses may be needed.
Great. Were did you get that information? Thanks
 

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Welcome to TFP!!!

I would slow down, and NOT add any non-recommended chemicals...will save you money and headache.


We follow the Slam process to clear algae...Link-->SLAM Process

To do a SLAM, and properly maintain a pool, you need a good test kit, here are our recommended test kits. I'd order one now. Link-->Test Kits Compared

If you need proof this works, check this out...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

Season 1 Showtime GIF by The Chi
CA is 36 so essentially keep my FC at 12 ppm until my issue is resolved does that sum it up?
 
CA is 36 so essentially keep my FC at 12 ppm until my issue is resolved does that sum it up?
Assuming that CA is what we call CYA, we round up to the next 10, so your cya should be treated as 40. Slam level is 16.

I missed the sodium bromide addition.

However, if you review the sodium bromide article Marty linked, will be used to change the bromide to bromine. It is not stabilized, and thus is quickly eliminated by UV, and you can’t keep enough HOCl to kill the algae.

There are large parts of TFP that are chemistry based and some evidentiary based. I think it would be a good experiment to test the process described in your article to clear the sodium bromide. You will know it is gone when you can measure SLAM level FC.
 
Assuming that CA is what we call CYA, we round up to the next 10, so your cya should be treated as 40. Slam level is 16.

I missed the sodium bromide addition.

However, if you review the sodium bromide article Marty linked, will be used to change the bromide to bromine. It is not stabilized, and thus is quickly eliminated by UV, and you can’t keep enough HOCl to kill the algae.

There are large parts of TFP that are chemistry based and some evidentiary based. I think it would be a good experiment to test the process described in your article to clear the sodium bromide. You will know it is gone when you can measure SLAM level FC.
Lets say ole Marty is correct and I now have a bromine pool. Are you saying that tomorrow after the sun is blaring down on it all day I will have no FC in the pool?
 
Your Ace Hardware results report free chlorine, but no total chlorine. Typically total chlorine is reported as the amount of Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorine = Total Chlorine. FAS-DPD testing, which is standard in the recommended test kits, can report the values for FC and CC separately, which is key to under the ongoing sanitation of the pool water.

Just to be clear, no one here is telling you what to do. The community here just exists to pass along the knowledge of the TFP methods, which is borne out with very good results on a daily basis by thousands of folks. If you choose to pursue other methods, you’re more than free to do so.
 
Your Ace Hardware results report free chlorine, but no total chlorine. Typically total chlorine is reported as the amount of Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorine = Total Chlorine. FAS-DPD testing, which is standard in the recommended test kits, can report the values for FC and CC separately, which is key to under the ongoing sanitation of the pool water.

Just to be clear, no one here is telling you what to do. The community here just exists to pass along the knowledge of the TFP methods, which is borne out with very good results on a daily basis by thousands of folks. If you choose to pursue other methods, you’re more than free to do so.
Hey it does report Free, total and combined my combined chlorine is 0 I may have written that incorrectly. I get it 100% but I literally read and see something different depending on the source. I understand it's up to me to make the best decision for myself or give up and pay someone to keep up with it. Not quite there yet but I'm close.
 
Lets say ole Marty is correct and I now have a bromine pool. Are you saying that tomorrow after the sun is blaring down on it all day I will have no FC in the pool?
From your article..."If bromine has NEVER been added to an outdoor pools in the form of tabs, shocking the pool (5+ppm of chlorine in a single dose), added on sunny days, will tend to remove the bromine/bromide. However, repeated doses may be needed.

I'm saying, tomorrow, do repeated doses of 5+ppm of chlorine, with the pump running. Test your FC after 30 minutes. Repeat until you can get FC to hold at 5ppm...

With repeated doses, I think you can get about 24, 5ppm doses, dosing every 1/2 hour. Trouble will be the testing, as you are using pool store testing. I would not do additions without a test kit, to protect people and equipment.

Doing this is a great experiment to prove if a single, or repeated dosages will work. Could be a fun experiment, and not too costly, a few bucks on chlorine to prove it out, one way or the other. If not, then I think @mknauss is spot on.

My money is on @mknauss the man has helped clear more pools that anyone else on this site, including mine.

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From your article...If bromine has NEVER been added to an outdoor pools in the form of tabs, shocking the pool (5+ppm of chlorine in a single dose), added on sunny days, will tend to remove the bromine/bromide. However, repeated doses may be needed.

I'm saying, tomorrow, do repeated doses of 5+ppm of chlorine, with the pump running. Test your FC after 30 minutes. Repeat until you can get FC to hold at 5ppm...
I put in 3 lbs of cal hypo granulated shock at around 6 pm I guarantee you I'll have 10+ ppm FC tomorrow all day.
 
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