New pool build in AZ!

From my old pool cleaner days, I prefer the DE filters because of the ability to filter a smaller micron particle. In my old pool route (in San Diego County) there were literally no cartridge filters and when there were , we got rid of them pretty quick. Everything was DE, and the square footage is not really relative. In other words, a 48SF DE filter is technically more efficient than a 400SF cartridge. They're easier to clean regularly as well. So I'm already sold on DE, sorry... :)
Studying the rest of your recommended list, I will probably have questions....

You should certainly do more homework and familiarize yourself with modern pool standards and equipment. By your own admission, your knowledge is bit dated. Not trying to be snarky, but things change ... a lot.

This link is a very good starting point for understanding hydraulics - Hydraulics 101 - Have you lost your head?

One thing you'll notice is that a Pentair C&C cartridge filter has a slightly lower head loss than a QuadDE filter and much lower than FNS (grid style) DE filter. So, from a hydraulics standpoint, the cartridge filter is a clear winner. Cartridge filters also don't need backwash valves or multiport valves which reduces head losses even further. Finally, not dealing with DE dust and the nuisance of disposal is a plus - check your municipal code as many have restrictions on discharging DE into sanitary sewer lines. If you do have a restriction, then you will need to install a DE separation tank on the backwash line which will be a huge nuisance. Filter area matters a lot because that is what controls the frequency of cleanings. Backwashing a DE filter is a very poor substitute for tearing it down and cleaning it out. In my own pool (16,000 gallons with a 100 sq ft DE filter), I never backwash and I only have to clean it out once per year ... and even with that I find it to be too bothersome. With a large area cartridge filter, you will almost never see a pressure rise and your cleaning frequency will be dictated by when you feel like doing it. If you get two sets of cartridges, then swapping out clean for dirty is super fast and you can clean the dirty cartridges at your leisure without impacting the pool's circulation.

When you follow TFP's method of pool care, I would challenge anyone to tell me the difference in filtration simply by looking at the water ... we have members with sand filters, supposedly the worst of the filtration methods, whose pools look so clear you would think there wasn't actually any water in the pool. Filtration and circulation is important, but DE is overkill and a complexity that is unnecessary.

Your pool, your money so you can do what you like, but you'll find the sentiments above to be pretty much universal around here ...

Pentair IntelliFlo VSF pump … it’s literally the gold standard. Got it!

Get automation. Sounds fancy but it’s not. You really want to have the ability to control your pool from inside the house. If you’ve never lived in AZ you simply have no experience with months of triple digit air temps. You really want that pool controlled from the comfort of your LazyBoy chair. This will be a pool only, one rock waterfall on all the time. I just don't see the need to automate anything...?

SWG … you want to size it at a MINIMUM of 2X your pool volume. As with filters, bigger is always better. Got it!

Surface - up to you but plaster/pebble is the only surface that makes sense in AZ. You can go super fancy with Hydrazzo polished plaster or go with simple white plaster. Up to your budget. Any idea what the cost difference is between plaster and pebble?



Hahaha … I only half joke with people not from around here - when you turn on the water spigot here, concrete slurry comes out of the faucet … your building your home so, if you don’t want to wreck every heater and water fixture in your brand new home, get a whole house softener. If you don’t, be prepared to chip cement off your fixtures and replace your hot water heaters every 5 years. We are moving down from N AZ, so well aware of hard water and it's problems!!!

Automation is about controlling the pool equipment and keeping it on schedules so that you DON'T have to tend to it and so you can leave the home on vacation with peace of mind knowing that the pool will simply run on its own. Not having to bother neighbors to come over and tend to your stuff while you're away is a big plus. Running the pump at set speeds during specific times of the day, automating a waterfall so it's not running all the time (which is bad), controlling the output of an SWG and being able to easily change it as needed, eventually running a heater as-needed. It is far better to be able to do all these things from the comfort of your home rather than standing outside in the blazing sun pushing buttons and switches or turning valves by hand. You can certainly choose to do that but it's kind of silly given that the incremental cost installing automation at the time of build is tiny compared to doing it later. You're likely going to spend upwards of $60k on this pool and an $1,800 automation systems is a show-stopper ... I don't see the logic in that.

Plaster versus pebble is an aesthetic choice. You need to design the pool and then shop around with the various surface materials to see what looks best and what you like. You can get all sorts of samples from plaster manufacturers. The same is true with water line tile ... that takes a lot of window shopping.

No AUTOFILL ??? That's just crazy-talk. As state above, you will be living by your pool with a hose in hand if you don't install one. Automate it if you're worried about it running too much but you will hate having a pool if you have to sit there every day adding back 3/4" of water (and then forgetting to turn the hose off only to have your yard flooded with water).

Being from Northern AZ you need to understand that the climate in the valley is VERY VERY different than your lived experience. The Phoenix area gets well over 100" of water evaporation per year and almost no precipitation (10" or less ... mostly less). That means you evaporate away an entire swimming pool's worth of water. Evaporating that much water means your calcium hardness will increase anywhere from 200 to 400ppm PER YEAR. That is a huge amount of calcification. If you don't have good control over your source water's chemistry, you will quickly find your pool's chemistry way out of whack and things like your very expensive SWG will get trashed in short order.
 
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Suction side cleaner port: No, will use skimmer to vacuum

This is another area where I disagree. Having a dedicated suction port for a manual vacuum head or for running a suction cleaner is a no brainer. Using the skimmer to do so, especially when you plan to only have one skimmer, is a huge PITA. I use a suction cleaner all the time in my pool as it works great and is minimal maintenance and cost as opposed to robot cleaners. The incremental cost of a dedicated suction line (some PVC pipe and a three way valve) is insignificant. Even if you use it only once per year, it is still way better than fooling around with a skimmer plate or a diverter plug.
 
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You will NEVER be able to leave the home for more than a day or two. You must have an autofill. You can put in an automated valve with flow meter so you know how much you are using, but you have to have a way for the pool stay full. Or you will regret it.
Ahhh, good point, I suppose I might as well stub up a 1/2 pipe. there's a hose bib nearby...
Without heater (and cover), the pool will be warm enough to swim from June to September, early. You will never get 8 months without both of those.
Hmmmm, well no heater for sure. Unless they make an electric trickle heater for pools like they have for spas? Cover possible if it gets me an extra month on either end. And if I go with a cover, then rectangle is sure easier. Do you have an electric cover, or one on a reel? Or just one you pull on and off? A slight kidney wouldn't be too hard to pull one on and off I think. I am working with an odd space, I'll do a drawing and post it to get ideas.
Thanks for the ideas, that's why I'm here!
 
Do you have an electric cover, or one on a reel? Or just one you pull on and off? A slight kidney wouldn't be too hard to pull one on and off I think.
I do not have an auto cover, wish we did. We use a cheap solar cover, pull it on and off. I put it on April 1, and use the heater to get the water warmed up. Then use the heater about once a week until mid May to keep it warm. Take the cover off end of May (did that this year and ended up running the heater multiple times during June to warm up the pool) and then put the cover back on early September. Run the heater a few times and then take it off around November 1 when swimming is over.

You can look at a solar heater. Lots of folks have them here.
 
@JoyfulNoise Well, I guess I have a lot to learn! Admittedly I learned my stuff a long time ago. I am willing to change if it makes sense... so ok, here's my newest mindset:
1) I'll check out cartridge filters
2) Auto -fill yes, I can monitor it
3) Heater - still a no
4) In wall suction port - Sure why not? Like you say, a piece of pipe and a valve.....
5) Automation - maybe...It'll only be a waterfall pump to switch off and lights at night
6) Surface - TBD
7) Whole House Water Treatment - OK, Yes....
8) $60k - I don't think so. I sure hope not! My preliminary pricing puts it under $40k. But we'll see once I start getting prices from the subs....
 
I am so in for this one!!
Depth: 3' - 5' (?) 3/5/3
This is where I step in big time. Got some homework for you:
measure where 3' will hit you and the other adults in the house. It is way too shallow. You cannot do a good crawl stroke without hitting your knuckles on the bottom. Go AT LEAST 3'5" but I would go 4' min.

5' in the middle-are you thinking volley ball play?

Now lets talk WATER depth-WATER depth is measured from the bottom of the pool to the middle of the skimmer opening. Some people measure POOL depth from the bottom of the pool to the coping. Doing it that way you lose from 6 to 8" of water depth. Just something to think/know about.
Rock fountain 2-3 boulders,
You say you will be running this all of the time. Once you hear it you might change your mind as some of them can be quite loud. Make sure you have a way to turn it off if wanted or needed.
 
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Just look through the automation options Pentair has (you want to keep equipment all in the same family as much as possible). Automation is more than just turning on an off switches. Modern automation creates a communication interface to your pump that allows for scheduling, speed changes and power consumption visibility. It allows you to control valves so that water falls or cleaner lines can be controlled (you don’t want a waterfall running all the time as it creates aeration and pH rise). It gives you diagnostic information on when the SWG is running, information about the salinity of the water and temperature info. Some systems also have you remote access so that when you are away you will know if the pool is running or not. There are also relays that can be used to control landscape lighting and even scheduling of pool water fill valves. It’s not just flipping switches …

Unless you are a family of unusually short people, a 3-5-3 “sports style” will be too shallow. 3.5-5.5-4 is better. 3ft depths are unusable for most people even when floating on a tube. The water depth is so shallow that it will be very warm and not refreshing. For a sports style pool, if you plan to play pool games then you should keep the design rectangular.
 
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They're easier to clean regularly as well. So I'm already sold on DE, sorry...
I would strongly suggest a large cartridge filter. They are very easy to clean (and there's no DE hassles). I can go ~18 months between cleanings.

Browse these threads and see if you can distinguish which pools have sand, cartridge, or DE filters:



Depth: 3' - 5' (?) 3/5/3
3' is extremely shallow. I'd suggest increasing the depth of the shallow end to 4'. I have a 4/5/4 profile, and it works great.

Pump: Pentair VSP 1-1/2 HP (?)
Get a 3 HP pump. The IntelliFlo3 would be ideal.

1 Skimmer
I'd recommend two skimmers.

AutoFill: No (I want to know how much water is going in every week, use to fix lots of pool leaks
You can also control your fill line with a valve connected to your irrigation system (control it as a zone). This can be done in conjunction with an autofill device.

Suction side cleaner port: No, will use skimmer to vacuum
Get a robot.
 
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I am so in for this one!!

This is where I step in big time. Got some homework for you:
measure where 3' will hit you and the other adults in the house. It is way too shallow. You cannot do a good crawl stroke without hitting your knuckles on the bottom. Go AT LEAST 3'5" but I would go 4' min.

5' in the middle-are you thinking volley ball play?

Now lets talk WATER depth-WATER depth is measured from the bottom of the pool to the middle of the skimmer opening. Some people measure POOL depth from the bottom of the pool to the coping. Doing it that way you lose from 6 to 8" of water depth. Just something to think/know about.

You say you will be running this all of the time. Once you hear it you might change your mind as some of them can be quite loud. Make sure you have a way to turn it off if wanted or needed.
My wife is an average 5'4". I am 6'2". Son (who will be coming over a few times a year) is 6'4".
Ok changing to 4 ft depth minimum! See that's why I'm here.......
 
Just look through the automation options Pentair has (you want to keep equipment all in the same family as much as possible). Automation is more than just turning on an off switches. Modern automation creates a communication interface to your pump that allows for scheduling, speed changes and power consumption visibility. It allows you to control valves so that water falls or cleaner lines can be controlled (you don’t want a waterfall running all the time as it creates aeration and pH rise). It gives you diagnostic information on when the SWG is running, information about the salinity of the water and temperature info. Some systems also have you remote access so that when you are away you will know if the pool is running or not. There are also relays that can be used to control landscape lighting and even scheduling of pool water fill valves. It’s not just flipping switches …
Ok, I'm considering going auto...Dang it. Sending you the bill......
 
I would strongly suggest a large cartridge filter. They are very easy to clean (and there's DE hassles). I can go ~18 months between cleanings.




3' is extremely shallow. I'd suggest increasing the depth of the shallow end to 4'. I have a 4/5/4 profile, and it works great.


Get a 3 HP pump. The IntelliFlo3 would be ideal.


I'd recommend two skimmers.


You can also control your fill line with a valve connected to your irrigation system (control it as a zone). This can be done in conjunction with an autofill device.


Get a robot.
Ok, Ok, guys, Jeez, I'll look at a cartridge filter, they must have changed, they used to be almost as good as no filter at all.....
Depth noted and changed.
3HP is a lot, we never used to use those except on commercial pools.....?
Why 2 skimmers on a little pool?
Filler no issue any more, I'll put a timer on it.
No robot. I enjoy cleaning a pool, it's like a Zen sand thing for me......
:)
 
Variable speed = variable horsepower. Running a pump at lower RPMs means a lot less noise. When a VSP runs below 2k rpm’s you can barely hear it. If you undersized the pump then you will more than likely have to run it closer to its full plate rating which defeats the point.

For a residential pool, it’s better to run the pump slowly 24/7 at a speed that creates enough flow to make the skimmer work and generate chlorine (most SWG flow switches close at 15GPM). You only need higher speeds when vacuuming/cleaning or when running the waterfall. This is the reason why automation is so important - you can work out all these speeds and valve positions and then schedule it all so you never have to do anything at the equipment pad. More time for swimming and less time spent futzing around.
 
If your pool is small then 1 skimmer is adequate but here’s the deal - the wind never blows in one direction and you will more than likely place the skimmer exactly opposite of where the wind blows. Happens all the time. Having two skimmers increases the chances that your debris will get caught before it falls to the bottom.

Also, a plumbing setup - make sure ALL suction sources (skimmers, main drains, cleaner lines) have home runs straight back to the equipment pad. Do NOT tie a main drain in series into a skimmer You want to be able to precisely control all suction sources so that you can tweak their draw for best possible efficiency. Pool builders and plumbers try to cut corners all the time by tying drains into skimmers. It leads to main drains that barely function.
 
No robot. I enjoy cleaning a pool, it's like a Zen sand thing for me......
:)

Smart move. You can read my long winded saga about going to a robot and then all the grief trying to rebuild it (it’s a link in my signature). Robots are the most expensive way to clean a pool and if you don’t mind dropping $1000 every 5 years on a new one, then go for it. I don’t have that kind of disposable income (well … I do … but i ain’t spending it on pool cleaners).

I suggest you look at the Pentair Rebel suction cleaner since I’ve convinced you to put in a dedicated suction line. Having a pool cleaner running all day keeps the surfaces clean and minimizes the number of times you have to manually vacuum. Yes, yes, I agree that it is sometimes Zen to go manually vacuum the pool but it sucks in the heat. Letting a suction cleaner do the work is best and they are not nearly as expensive as robots and you can rebuild them fairly easily and with minimal cost.
 
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Nothing will clean my pool except me :) Not necessary.

All good until YOU are not able to clean the pool … vacation, injury, long term illness … helps to have options available … but yeah, you can skip it on the initial build. As long as you have the dedicated suction port, it’ll just be a future pool purchase …
 

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